Thanks man. For the fouler, I just plan on getting a sim...no drilling. All you have to do is lift the car, clean the sensor, put on the sim and screw back in, right?

Thanks again.

 

Indeed, every secondary sensor on my 3 vehicles have that. I bought them over ebay. The newer ones are stainless.

Remove the sensor, (count the turns), put the extender/adapter/sim, put the sensor back. The idea behind counting turns is that you do not want to have the wiring twisted after you are done. You could achieve that by disconnecting the harness or twisting it in the opposite direction before re-installing. I did NOT clean the sensor but did use VERY LIGHT COAT of anti sieze on both adapter and sensor thread.

This was done as a "fiver favor" to me by my mechanic while the vehicles were on the lift for routine oil changes :-) The first one was like "Are you sure this will work?"

 

Excellent. Count turns when putting sensor into adaptor.

Fiver favor Love it. Guess I will try to find a lift place. Don't know if you can get at it in a bay type place.

Thanks.

 

Another tip; Absolutely use an O2 sensor socket to loosen it while the engine is hot. Then you can wait until it cools down to take it off completely. Do not go after it with an open end wrench on a stone cold engine!

Both the secondary sensors are in really tough spots on the Maxmia, so having it on the lift would help quite a lot. There is barely enough room for the extender and the sensor; I was afraid that I would need the more expensive 90 degree angled one when I first eyeballed it.

 

I bough the eastern cat from rock auto for 175 bucks with shipping and did the job myself. Its very simple and straightforward job.

 

A couple of quesitons - where'd you find the Eastern front (Bank 2) pre-cat for at that price (seems to be 200 everywhere I'm looking)? Did you have a california emissions system (or federal)?

Eastern says their pre-cat is for cali-emissions, but it looks just like the small elbow at the front of mine (about 12 inches long, 5 bolts at the top where it connects to the exhaust manifold, slug/slot for the O2 sensor with the red wire after the pre-cat that's throwing the P0430, and 3 bolts at the bottom where it connects to the stuff coming off the other bank).

Interested to know if anyone has used this on a non-cali car without problems.

 

Thanks sontakke. Got pm too. I took a look the other day. The first secondary seems very inconvenient to get at actually. We'll see.

Whoever asked about eastern....just google eastern cat and some places will show up. i think autopartswarehouse, car-stuff etc.

 

Another noob question....

Can someone tell me what the issues are when buying an aftermarket precat for a cali emissions vehicle? I am not in CA anymore and want to get rid of a 0430 code.

Just got confused by a salesperson who said there are different parts for the CA pre-cat and what they sell wouldn't pass. He may actually have said they don't fit either which...

Thanks.

 

^^ You shouldn't have any as long as you purchase the right one. There are different parts for Cali vs Fed spec cars. If the store you went to doesn't sell it, then purcahse it online. I got mine from www.performancepeddler.com, the Eastern Cat. Installed with ease and haven't had an issue.

 

The eastern part - EAST40387 is the same on all sites. Some say it is for CA and some don't. So you had a CA car and are in NJ now it seems. Trying to price it out right now.

Thanks.

 

There is enough lack of clarity as to which pre cat will fit my max (with a gasket, without a gasket, whatever). So, I ordered the dual output Simulator and will replace the signals on the white wires returning to the ECU with signals from the simulator. I am hoping this will resolve my P0430 without too much uncertainty and expense.

 

so ive had my o2 sim in for about 3 days (barley drive the car) put about 60 miles on it and already threw a heater code, any way to fix this??

 

Did you have a code before and what kind of sim did you use? spacer or wired?

As for pre-cat lack of clarity (2 messages above), I agree. But most seem to think the Eastern will be fine and without the gasket. Feet may need to be ground off. Maybe get the gasket in case.

 

I used the old gasket with a bit of muffler cement, put 200 miles thus far, no codes or any audible exhaust leaks.

 

Just a follow up on my 0430.

Ended up getting a spacer/non-fouler/simulator from 02spacer.com. It has been over 100 miles and I passed emissions in TX. I replaced as suggested above, put in 1 tank of good gas, disconnected the battery overnight and ran the engine hot (drove 50 miles) before emissions testing. It was a very tight fit and kind of a pain in the ***. It got done anyways. The sensor wrenches didn't help me but it might help you. Some places rent them for free. Oreilleys did.

The cat cleaner and good gas solution didn't work for me. I was going to get the eastern cat from performance peddler but not now as my last resort. Perhaps next time. Thanks for all that helped.

 

i have a Cali and fed emissions i30 if i put in a non-carb complaint cat is it going to trow a SES light ?

 

It will probably get you few months before the SES light will be back. Non-OEM converters generally do not work.

 

how can you have a cali and fed spec emissions? It's either one or the other. All 2001 and later are cali, 2000 are either fed or cali.

if not carb approved, it just means if you use it and you live in California, they won't pass you. but it should work.

 

nice and idk dude it says under my hood "this vehicle and complaint with california and fed emissions" !
so i guess because its cali it should pass both !

 

(B) Buying a new precat $1000+Labor

Buying a new precat and labor SHOULD NOT cost more than $300.
Eastern precat on rockauto fits like a glove and is $180ish with shipping.
If anyone paid more than that, then i got bad news for you.

 

^^ +1

 

If you live in Calif then you have no choice other than an $800 OEM precat plus labor. If you live out of CA, even with a Cali spec, you can replace with an aftermarket precat. Places that make aftermarket precats for Cali spec Maxs will not ship to CA. If you put an aftermarket precat in CA then you run the risk of the smog inspection flunking your test.

 

one of my uncles close friends owns a shop one of his guys is going to do it after hours for 100 bucks ! i also bought a walker cat! which is owned by Monroe and with mail in rebate it cost me 186 + 20 $ worth of gaskets so all together bought 300 $ repair compared to the dealer wanting 1005$ for the part alone I'm very happy with that.

 

1) No, you don't have to buy OEM cat, you just need to look around and research different places that sell and ship cats to CA within a reasonable price range. You can pay $800 and be done with it, or spend some time looking around and save half if not more, since you're in CA...

2) If the aftermarket cat is doing its job and does not give you a CEL, then why the hell would you fail the smog inspection? Seriously, stop being silly.

 

I already bought an after market cat haven't put it in yet so I"m hoping it doesn't trow a CEL but allot of people are confirming my assumption that it wont, and i found a stock part new for around 500 they aren't cheap

 

If you're not in cali and you spend $500 ish on a precat alone, then

 

lmao OK good !

 

i purchased an eastern pre cat and it didn't fit the top lip would have to be cut to fit the stock gasket on there i lucky returned this pre-cat however i still have a CEL the after market is different the honeycomb doesn't come up to the top like the stock part therefore even if the lip was cut there would be extra room for the gasket to float not making a seal.

 

Mine went on just fine, and no gasket was needed.

 

400 miles with obx headers and still not check engine light. The antifouler trick works perfectly.

 

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread for this:

My 2000 Maxima w/ 105,000 miles failed NJ Inspection for the following 4 codes:

P1320 Ignition Coil
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0139 O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)
(-->this one pops up twice) P0139 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)


Took it to a few shops to be diagnosed:

Shop A) Possible faulty wiring on Cylinder 1, from a TSB Shop B) 2 faulty oxygen sensors, 1 faulty catalytic converter, 6 faulty ignition coilsShop C) Bad ECMThese are all really non-specific. I know I am going to have to change something, and I would like to do it myself..I just can't get a straight answer. Does anyone know if a combination of these codes/problems together is typical of 1 or 2 bad parts or is it everything? or the ECM malfunctioning?

The car was running really rough in November, I changed all 6 Ignition Coils (Standard/Prestolite ~$70, autopartswarehouse) and 6 Spark Plugs (NGK Platinum ~$4, amazon) and it runs incredible now!

I would be so thankful for any suggestions!

 

Did you clear the codes to see if they'll return?

 

Topgear, unclear if you changed your coils and spark plugs after or before the SES codes popped up. Please clarify. If you did it after, then did you clear the codes as DJ asked?

 

How long did you operate the car with the misfire due to bad coils? This will kill your cats quickly. The mileage on your car also points to the O2 sensors possibly failing or slow to react.

 

Sorry: I had the multiple misfire code for a few months in late 2011, changed the coils and plugs in November 2011, took it for inspection in January 2012 and it failed/kicked back those 4 codes.

I have reset the computer by disconnecting the battery a few times, no luck. Same codes come back.

Thanks

 

It should have taken care of the P1320 ignition coil SES code, but not the two other codes.

For the P0430 and P0139 you'll need to likely change those O2 sensors. P0430 could be a possible pre-cat failure on Bank 2.

I'd suggest those two codes first and then come back to the ignition coil code. I think it is possible you may have a bad coil from the new batch you bought. There is a thread on here about testing your coils to determine if they are bad. It is worth a check.

 

Misfires and cat efficiency are 1st trip of the two trip detection logic of the ECM, I believe. Those codes would return right away if it's latched. So removing the battery cable would just reset your readiness monitors. Best to get a code reader and erase the codes that way to see if they come back. Some auto part stores do it for free. Just note the codes before they erase them.

 

Ah yes...do this first before anything else.

 

Just wondering, why didn't any of the 3 mechanics that scanned the car try that first! I'll get them reset and see what still comes up.

Any luck with generic oxygen sensors? or is it strongly recommended to go OEM.

Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the rear one on the tube before the cat, right? or does getting P0139 twice mean that the manifold sensors are the likely culprit?

 

Maybe...but you never know for sure.

Yes, generic should work out ok. I've used NGK before, but went back to stock for my personal preference. The generic will work, but likely not last as long.

Careful, you are confusing yourself. P0139 is on Bank 1, rear sensor. See the link to the TSB. The TSB states to change both rear O2 sensors on banks 1 and 2.

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf


Clear the codes with an OBD reader first. If they pop back up, read them yourself, or find a shop. If the codes are the same, then your next step would be to replace both rear O2 sensors.