these few days i noticed a weird noise and hard start when i try to crank strat my car, some sound like "kak" like a metal hitting a metal... don't know hot to explain it... after that weird sound, nothing happens, the engine will not start. (air bag lights, abs lights, SES lights are fine...)
and i have to turn the inigtion off and start again... everytime when it happends, 2-3 try will make the car start. my friend told me it should be the starter is dying... is it true? any of u have this kind of problems? how to fix it? and how much that might cost me?
my car is just turning 60000km...

 

Yes, sounds like the starter.

EDIT: Starters usually go for around $120-140 new.

Here's a How-To thanks to "foodmanry"

Just a disclaimer....I am not responsible for any mechanical, electrical, or other damage resulting from following these directions. This is at your own accord.

Start Removal/Installation & Re-greasing:

Estimated Time: 1.5 hours

Tools Needed:

--Metric sockets: 10MM, 12MM, 14MM, & 17MM (deep sockets)
--3/8” (recommended due to tight space) or 1/2” drive with small extension.
--Philips head screwdriver
--Hi-temp multi-lube silicone grease
--Brake or carburetor cleaner
--Nissan ESM or FSM (not required, but highly recommended, look at page SC-19)

All steps consider person at the front of the car facing the engine bay.

Part I: Start removal

Step 1: Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Step 2: Remove intake assembly. (I suggest removing everything up to the throttle body, you will need the room.

Step 3: Detach harness protector that is above the starter and to the left of the battery. This is quite difficult to do without breaking. I ended up breaking mine, but it wasn’t that big of a deal to me because I didn’t feel the need to have the harness clamped in. But if you want to remove without breaking take your time and be patient, you have to separate the protector clip from the mounting bracket.

Step 4: Disconnect starter harness connecting the start solenoid to the power supply wire using a 12MM socket or open ended wrench.

Step 5: Loosen upper 14MM bolt with a deep 14MM socket and 3/8” or 1/2" drive. Requires some force to be removed.

Step 6: Loosen and remove lower 17MM bolt with deep 17MM socket or a 17MM socket and extension. This requires a lot of force to remove.

Step 7: Pull starter away from engine at a slight downward and away angle. This requires some maneuvering to remove from the engine as there is little room to work with. Removal of the battery may help in this situation, but I didn’t end up having to remove the battery.

Part II: Disassembly & Cleanup of the Starter

Step 1: Using brake or carburetor cleaner clean the outside housing of the starter and the solenoid.

Step 2: Remove the solenoid using a 10MM socket on the two 10MM bolts. Loosen the top bolt connecting the power supply cord. Carefully remove the solenoid from the starter. Keep a close track on the parts as to how they came off and where they go. These parts do not need to be re-lubed unless you have excessive mileage (probably 75K or more). Mine did not require to be re-lubed, the grease was still viscous and not hardened.

Step 3: Remove the rear cover from the starter using a Phillips head screwdriver on the two screws. You might notice a lot of copper filing and dried grease in the cover. This should be cleaned.

Step 4: Remove the two 10MM Through-bolts.

Step 5: Carefully pull apart the upper assembly containing the charging elements of the starter. This includes the brush assembly, armature assembly, yoke assembly, and center bracket. Clean the yoke assembly and center bracket with brake or carburetor cleaner. The brush assembly and armature assembly can be cleaned with compressed air, or stiff bristle brush. Keep track of the parts and how they were removed.

Step 6: Remove the internal gear, packing, and planetary gear. These need to be cleaned and re-greased with high temperature grease.

Step 7: The rest of the starter should come out basically as one piece. I would suggest leaving it as is, except for re-greasing the pinion shaft as much as you can. The intricate parts such as the rings requires special tools and in my opinion are not worth acquiring for this task.

Step 8: Clean gear case assembly.

Part III: Starter Assembly

Step 1: Assemble the starter. Keep a close track on the parts. I re-lubed the packing, planetary gears, and internal gear as I re-assembled the starter. Be sure to line up the holes in the center brackets, yoke assembly, and brush holder assembly. They need to be aligned so the Through-bolts can reach the bottom of the starter and be tightened.

Step 2: Replace the starter solenoid. Be sure to assemble all parts in the correct configuration!

Step 3: Tighten all bolts. From the ESM there are torque specifications, but I tightened all bolts finger tight and then 1/4 turn.

Part IV: Starter Installation

Step 1: Put start back in place using the reverse order of removal instructions. Be sure to finger tighten all bolts before tightening them down all the way!! Use the deep sockets to get the bolts started, unless you have small hands and can start the bolts without the sockets. Finger tighten 14MM, 17MM, and 12MM bolts. Tighten 12MM bolt connecting the power harness to ½ turn more than finger tight or per the required torque specification. The 14MM and 17MM bolts tighten with a large amount of force.

Step 2: Re-install harness protector.

Step 3: Re-install intake.

Step 4: Reconnect negative battery terminal.

Start the car and enjoy the whine free sound!

 

NAPA has a remanufactured starter for our cars for $117. Worked great for me.

 

thanx alot for the write ups, but anyone have the picture? coz i saw 2 rounded can in there, but not sure which one>< sorry i dunno anything about it...