I just took off my wheels to adjust my coilovers and when i put them back on i noticed my passenger side wheel was loose... when i tightened all the lugs down, the wheel could still wobble if i moved it. The driver's side was solid and didn't wobble at all. I'm guessing this is whats been causing a weird wobble/rattle sound from that side on some bumps and turns. Any ideas on how to fix this? and is it safe to drive for a little longer... because i have to drive 450 miles on tuesday night. Thanks in advance

 

I suspect a wheel bearing, if everything else is tight.

 

I wouldn't drive 450 if it's that noticable. If there bearing is shot, then it will eventually heat up so hot it will seize, and then you will have worse issues.

 

Put your hands @ 12 and 6 on the tire. Then put your hands on 3 and 9. Try to shake the tire both ways. Which way has more play?? Also does the 6 have more play than the 12 o'clock?
EDIT: do your tires make any humming/whirring noises when turning left or right??

I'm with vaporhead that I wouldn't drive the vehicle 450 miles. Is it safe?? More than likely. Is it 100% safe? possibly not depending on what the problem is.

 

i didnt really test the 12 and 6, 9 and 3 thing.. and the car is already back down, but i think it had more play with the 9 and 3. I dont really have time to fix it before i make that trip...

 

you need to check your front end. could be tie rod ends, ball joints, or wheel bearing.

 

Hope you have AAA..just in case.

 

It's your wheel bearing, you should hear humming.

I think I just shot another passenger side one.

 

i dont hear humming.. just a kind of wobbling sound when i go over bumps or make slow turns

 

Ball joints or tie rods, like mentioned above ... I would definitely get it checked out before making a long trip.

 

Definately get it checked b4 u make the trip. The last thing u need is to get in a wreck b/c of it. Safety issues should come first. Be safe man.

 

So for those of you familar with his problem, what is looking at as far as DIY time/cost as opposed to dealer cost? Obviously the dealer will be more expensive but relative to the difficulty, equipment required and all that, what is he facing. This is helpful to those of us who haven't encountered this before.

BTW, is this simply a product of having a lowered car or could it happen to a stock setup?

 

i really dont have time to have it looked at or even to look at it myself before the trip... but i will take it to a shop as soon as i get there. I'll let you know how it goes

 

Be careful. I went on a 200 mile roadtrip with a "loose" bearing and only made it one way.

Ended up toasting the bearing and the hub. Went back home with a loaner car that day...

 

Were your lugnuts loose? Because if they were and you drove on them like that you probably destroyed your threads. Which would explain why your wheels only tighten to a point but not all the way.

Look at the threads on your lugs. You might need to change all the wheel bolts.

 

i had my bearing replaced on 1 wheel. you should be hearing some sounds off this wheel at low or moderate speeds. dude it's really unsafe even though you can still drive with it. fix it asap.

 

to the people who say its really unsafe: did you have the exact same problem? (i.e. wheel can be moved when car is raised and lugs all tightened)

 

No, i didnt drive on loose lugs. I make sure to tighten them with a breaker bar whenever i take my wheels off and put em back on

 

Check the torque on the wheel bearing locknut/s. They've obviously been removed. They very often are not torqued to specs. Torque is 188 - 245 ft/lbs. Do it with most of the weight of the car on the ground and block the wheel to prevent the wheel rotating (the countertorque). This also prevents the "windup" of the driveshaft, diff. and output shaft etc.

 

could you explain this a little more... how do i get to the wheel bearing locknuts? do you mean to just lift that wheel off the ground and the rest of the car down...?

 

That's the large (30mm) hex nut you see when you pop your wheel cover/hub cap off your wheel (or remove the wheel) on your '01. The fronts have a cotter pin as well if I remember correctly. That nut retains the wheel bearing stack including the drive shaft and wheel hub. With the wheel off the ground there should be almost no "slop" or movement when you grab the wheel and shake it, AND when you pull straight in and out there should be almost no end play. To check the torque on the nut you will need a "deep" 30mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench. If you can it is much safer and easier to hold the hub/wheel by having the car on the ground. Damn........I just saw your wheels. You'll have to remove the wheel and use a bar in the rotor slots to countertorque. Install nuts on the wheel studs and snug them to seat the rotor. OR install your spare.

 

well... i made it! i took it to my mechanic and turns out i have a bad wheel bearing. With the holiday he doesnt have time to replace it this weekend, and i'm making that 450 mile trip back on sunday. Guess i'll start calling around tomorrow

 

I just had my passenger wheel bearing done at the dealer and it was about $390. However, it is covered under the powertrain warranty if you have under 60k miles. I believe that is what I have been reading all over this site.. Hope this helps.

 

I just had the basic warranty so it expired at 30k

 

Basic warranty at 30K?

Nissan standard bumper to bumper is 3yr/36k and standard powertrain is 5yr/60k but you have an '01 so even if you have less than 60k, you probably are past 5 yrs anyway.

 

sorry i meant 36k, and i have over 60k now. Most places are closed so i'm taking my car to sears.

 

well it's being fixed now... apparently the axle bolt had become loose and thats what caused the hub to go bad