Hello guys and gals,

I have a couple of codes stored in my ECU, I have a friend that works at a shop that can clear them out. He said that when he clears the codes it will also clear the drive plan or something like that. I know the ECU will formulate a new drive thingy but I don't know how long that takes, Does anyone know how long it takes the ECU to form a new drive plan??

2nd issue:

I removed my rear deck brake light (NJ doesn't allow more then 3 rear brake lights and I added a spoiler) and now there is a gap in the tint. Can I tape it off and darken it with night shades or is that a bad idea??

Thanks for all the help in advance, I would get new oxygen sensors but I am knee deep in Christmas shopping, if money were dynamite I wouldn't have enough to blow my nose

 

i have the same problem. i have the scanner so i cleared my code myself. went in to the inspection station all my car kept saying is that its not ready.my friend that works there said that i should be able to bring it back in after about 200miles which is usually what its takes ecu to gather a new drive plan. so what i did the 200miles went in and its still the same thing. i'm working on my 400miles+ right now and once i hit the 500miles mark i'm going to take it again

 

most cars relearn in between 20 - 100 miles for my max to get ready it took 20 miles on the freeway. Just going straight at constant speed.

 

This comes up all the time. The "Relearn" time and distance varies wildly depending on how you drive your car. The actual required "driving procedure" is detailed in The Readiness for Inspection and for your 2000 it's explained on page 10-21 of your Owners Manual. When you disconnect the battery for ANY TIME the ECM looses all the "learned" variable, adapted data, related to your particular car i.e. airfilter air flow, IACV/throttle bore gumming, injector flow changes, 02 sensor deterioration etc. and on some cars auto tranny shifting due to your prior driving habits. The ECM uses this info to "fine tune" or modify the fuel delivery and make changes to some "basic" programmed values. This has to be "relearned" by the ECM when you reconnect the battery and start driving again. If you leave the battery disconnected for more than about 24 hours, that kills all the stored diagnostic info (the fault codes etc.) as well. If all faults related to any stored codes that had put the SES light on have been corrected, then after reconnecting the battery the SES will obviously not light up again, but some faults that have not been actually corrected MAY take a while to put the SES light on again. Using a scantool to kill stored diagnostic data and turn off the light ("the reset") does the same thing as the 24 hr. battery disconnect. A couple more added comments. After disconnecting/reconnecting the battery DON'T drive the crap out of your car right away. Let it go through the "relearn" first. During this "relearn" these cars may not quite drive normally, or as the FSM says may have some "slight variation". I see this on this forum all the time where someone works on his car (and very often doing what they call "the reset"??) and then immediately goes out and does some "power" runs. Then complains that the car isn't running right. Nissan does a very poor job of explaining this. It really doesn't in the Owner's Manual at all (except for the Readiness for Insp. section). Ford for example mentions it twice in the '03 Taurus Owner's Manual, where it states that after reconnecting the battery "the vehicle has to be driven for up to 10 miles or more to relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy" and "if you don't allow it to relearn the idle trim the idle quality may be adversely affected until the idle trim is EVENTUALLY learned".

 

do you have the infamous p0430 code like me?

 

Here are my codes,

P0140

p0139

p0138

And my last problem is related to my spring upgrade. Turns out one of my zip ties broke and my ABS speed sensor rubbed against the tire until it was sawed through. How do I replace this wire/cable?? Does anyone know where to purchase one from?? I did a search and didn't find too much, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

yea i have that prob to ... and theirs no abs.. makes the car suck in the winter... or in the rain

 

ABS sensor is a dealer part...Costed me $108 or so from Dave B. Replacement is about 20 minutes.

edit: Can you splice the wires back together?

 

I might be able to slice them back to together but the last short cut I took (the zip ties) back fired on me so I'm alittle weary. I'm thinking I could find a junk yard Max and pull the cable off of that. Accually, I just found one but it's a 2003, wonder if the ABS cable is interchageable?

 

Only way to find out without doing the work first is calling the dealer and cross-referencing part numbers.

I wouldn't go with a junkyard ABS sensor. The car has probably been sitting, rusting, for months. The sensors are enough of a pain as is to get out when even partially rusted in on your own car, probably the reason it broke in the first place.