I got a 2001 max and I am getting rust on the edge of one of the wheel wells. What is the warranty for this?

 

If you got Nissan rustproofing and its warranty it only covers perforations and not surface rust.

 

My 01 pearl white max also has some wheel well rust on both rear wheels that I have been watching for the past two years. I have kept up on this each year by using touch up paint and also using bug and tar remover religiously after each wash on the wells. I mostly see it "flare up" in the winter with snow and salt from the roads. After I drive each day in the winter or when it my car gets wet I make it a habit to wipe down the wheel wells. This seems like a pain but it works. This has kept the rust from spreading and getting worse. Just keep an eye on it and religioulsy wipe them down. My 2 cents..........

 

Same here...part of living in the rust belt i guess.
I stripped off the rust, used rust sealer, and repainted/clear-coated.
I'll make sure to keep an eye on it this winter and make sure it's somewhat clean.

Not sure about the warranty though, sorry.

 

Tried myself with a dealer and with Nissan, no help, did not care or want to make a recomendation...I have it on the hood lip.

 

Here's my 37.8 cents worth.....

If you are going to go the touch-up paint route, do yourself a favor and swing by a local autobody supply store and pick up a can of wax & grease remover. A quart will be a LOT for touch up work. Wax & grease remover, as the name states, removes wax, grease, road grime and other contaminants. And this is REALLY important if you want your paint to adhere, as autopaint won't stick to areas that are contaminated. It needs to be squeaky clean! Even sanding doesn't always remove all the contaminants. You'll probably want to wear gloves when using it - drys out the skin rather quickly.
This may be obvious, but it does remove wax, so if you don't want to re-wax your car, be careful not to spill.

Make sure you wash the area first, then, MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE the area is dry, then clean with wax & grease remover, then apply touch-up paint.

You need to make sure the area is dry because water can get under the paint, thus causing the rust to spread. And if you touch up the aread prior to it being dry, you can trap water under the paint. Hair dryer good, heat gun bad. The really scary part about water under the paint, is that it can be there, rusting away for months/years and then suddenly show up one day as bubbled paint. And typically the rusted area under the bubbled paint is many times larger than the bubble itself. And one of the most common ways for bubbled paint to form is from rusted edges or paint chips, commonly found in wheel-wells....

A more permanent (and expensive) solution is to have a body shop sand, repaint and clear coat the lip of the wheel-well with paint that has a flex additive mixed in - much like what is used on plastic bumpers. The flex additive makes the paint more resistant to stone chips. If you want to go a step further, you could have them spray a gravel guard first, then color, then clear. The gravel guard however, has a rough surface (it looks somewhat like the peel of an orange), so you won't get a nice smooth shiny finish. However, it will be quite resistant to stone chips, more so than the flex additive.

An ooglie solution is to spray undercoating on the wheel-well lips. It's very effective, and quite inexpensive, but definitely not pretty. It can be applied over bare metal or painted surfaces. The real trick to doing this is creating a nice edge between the undercoated area and the painted part of the fender. Careful masking is in order. And once applied, removal is quite messy! So, think before you spray.

Good luck!

 

rust =