header setup/o2 sim question
header setup/o2 sim question
I'll hopefully be getting my cattman headers in a few weeks or so. I'm pretty sure I'll be going with the o2 sim, seems much easier to do in the long run. My question is if anyone knows the thread size on the secondary o2's. I was thinking that instead of tiewrapping them to something, it might be better to make an aluminum or copper heat sink. Just a plain block with two tapped holes to screw the secondaries into to soak up the heat and possibly cause less damage. I think they might be 18mm x 1 mm but I am not 100% on this.
Also, has anyone figured out the heater resistor yet? Last thread I read people were still experimenting and there were no definate conclusions. I noticed the o2 sim website is now selling 20w resistors so I ordered one with the dual ouput sim. Did I waste 5 bucks?
Also, has anyone figured out the heater resistor yet? Last thread I read people were still experimenting and there were no definate conclusions. I noticed the o2 sim website is now selling 20w resistors so I ordered one with the dual ouput sim. Did I waste 5 bucks?
well the heater can be simulated with a resistor...this is an OPTION and isn't 100% necessary (unless you want to remove the whole secondary o2 completely)....I just left all 4 of my o2 sensor in place...and hid my simulator....no resistors or anything....been 1.5 yrs and no SES either
check out my pics

as you can see, all o2's are still connected...and u can't even see my simulator cuz its hidden under the engine cover...you'll have no worries about inspection if you ask me
check out my pics

as you can see, all o2's are still connected...and u can't even see my simulator cuz its hidden under the engine cover...you'll have no worries about inspection if you ask me
Hey steve, stupid question but which engine cover do you have? Is it really two pieces? That gray piece seems to make a big difference in how the engine bay looks.
Again, thanks for the info, can't wait for the headers to show up.
Again, thanks for the info, can't wait for the headers to show up.
Originally Posted by knight_yyz
Hey steve, stupid question but which engine cover do you have? Is it really two pieces? That gray piece seems to make a big difference in how the engine bay looks.
Again, thanks for the info, can't wait for the headers to show up.
Again, thanks for the info, can't wait for the headers to show up.
I have a question about this topic as well.
I bought one of those MIL eliminators on ebay... Didn't think to read harder because it requires that I still have the rear o2 sensor (4 wire one) in.
I have removed it completely... Don't even have the sensor anymore.
What do I need to buy to simulate the entire signal so the code will go away?
Thanks,
Mike
I bought one of those MIL eliminators on ebay... Didn't think to read harder because it requires that I still have the rear o2 sensor (4 wire one) in.
I have removed it completely... Don't even have the sensor anymore.
What do I need to buy to simulate the entire signal so the code will go away?
Thanks,
Mike
Originally Posted by blackmaxx96
I have a question about this topic as well.
I bought one of those MIL eliminators on ebay... Didn't think to read harder because it requires that I still have the rear o2 sensor (4 wire one) in.
I have removed it completely... Don't even have the sensor anymore.
What do I need to buy to simulate the entire signal so the code will go away?
Thanks,
Mike
I bought one of those MIL eliminators on ebay... Didn't think to read harder because it requires that I still have the rear o2 sensor (4 wire one) in.
I have removed it completely... Don't even have the sensor anymore.
What do I need to buy to simulate the entire signal so the code will go away?
Thanks,
Mike
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