I lowered my car with Illuminas/H&R and ever since then my car pulls to the right. I had the car aligned three times by three different places. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do. The funny thing is, it has been like this for a while and hasn't worn my tires irregularly.

 

Did you make sure that your rear axle was centered? I was reading somewhere else that lowering the Max causes the rear axle to shift in one direction.

 

I've got the same problem so I'm subscribing

Same setup with H&R's yet running on stock struts.

 

rear axle on maxima is solid, nothing you can do about it, it sounds like your caster might be off either you have a positive caster on the right or negative on the left, not sure if the caster is adjustible...

 

I had this issue..
I was at Sears getting tires installed and had them Align it...
They came back and said the Camber was off and needed more time to get it right.... I said "Sure.. whatever..." they took care of it and I'm good ever since...

 

Here's what I was referring to: link. Don't know how much that'll help, though.

 

Your Caster might be off. It is adjustable but the alignment shop won't tell you that.

 

the shops should have given you the specs for the alignment, can you scan it and post it? i want to see the specs that they shot..

 

NOT TRUE there is a write up on the forums search check the space between fender& tire on both sides if one is off you need to adjust bushing in the torsion bar =piece that goes from tire to tire (rear) in the z piece that connects torsion bar to frame/unibody and thats where the bunched up bushing will be they say when you see it it will look all scrunched to one side .loosen staighten retighten your good

 

my car pulls to the left. The alignment place told me I have bad "rack and pinion". he told me it costs around 1k for it. I told the guy I need to come back later.

 

Exactly what I was referring to in my above post (#6).

 

Pearltt,

have the same issue since lowering with vogtland springs on stock struts, pulls to the right. going to try first: rotating of tires, then probably re-centering the rear beam, then i don't know. but it sucks on long distance drives.

 

check your tire pressure. That could cause that to be un-aligned. If not check your caster. And if that's not problem, then you could have a bent trailering arm.

 

Tell that guy he is retarded

 

Camber is not adjustable on 4th or 5th gens. Unless you get your chassis pulled. Which would essentially mean everything is adjustable.

you might have a pull to one direction based on the roads you drive on. Roads arent totally flat anymore, they are banked for drainage and increased traction.

 

I am having that same problem with my car and the alignment shop told me the same thing Does anybody have any answers ive searched on here and i all i hear i ve the same problem the dealership told me the samthing,but still no solution the problem does anybody have any answers to this i hate drivng my car now i feel like i should of left it stock now. but the cars handles and feels so much better since its lowered.

 

actually camber is adjustable for the front. You enlarge top strut hole and move shock to spindle accordingly and tighten. You then need to install a wedge so first time you hit a pothole you won't go off alignment again.
And rear tires are also adjustable but you need to use shims. You can fix toe and camber by removing bearing assembly and installing shims accordingly. Most shops will refuse to do it as it is time consuming and customer has to pay extra for this. As soon as they hear extra they start screaming that they paid already for alignment adjustments so therefore we tell them manufacturer had not design this suspension type with any adjustments. End of storry
However like East side's case it does work but it could be time consuming and few are willing to pay.

 

haha doing a toe adjustment adjusts the toe that adjusts the rack so it can fix any rack issue. He gave you a high price so you say no and walk away. Problem solved. It's sad to see ppl running businesses like this.

 

I am not able to be much help but I am running H&R's with HP Blue's. No Issues what so ever?... I just got new tires and an alignment today from Tire Kingdom... It drives like a new car!

 

same problem im just living with it for now

 

+1 here. Had this problem since I bought the car. Dealer did 3 alignments after I bought it. After lowering and new tires, alignment problem was less evident, but still there.

 

This might be one of those old wives tales, but isn't it supposed to pull a bit to the right? That way, if you doze off at the wheel you won't end up in a head on collision with the oncoming traffic, you'll just slide into the ditch...

 

*cough* This is why matt blemhco is developing custom LCAs to help fix all these problems you are describing, we lower our cars we cause a number of issues like stress on a number of parts and such, but also we put the LCAs in an unatural position. so instead of having LCAs parallel to the ground, they tend to have an upward angle after we lower our cars.

For now, since he isn't getting around to this anytime soon (matt just bought a house and some other things are going on)(and those of you who are going to interject that he doesn't own Blehmco anymore, yes thats true but he sold it so he would have more time to build parts for us ). I just installed camber bolts, I'm running -2.0 right now which is alot to run on the street, I need to go get an alignment and have it set at -1.0 which in turn is suppose to correct this pull right problem, I have a setting of zero toe out right now as well. Also when you have alignment, its been discussed to have the rear beam centered, this will help as well.

 

Wow!

Post your alignment specs.

For the 4th and 5th gen maxima's there is only a toe adjustment from the factory. This rarely will cause a pull if out of adjustment. Biggest problem with toe is tire wear and the steering wheel not being center. It can also cause wandering to both sides but not really just to right or left.

You can install camber kits for fairly cheap. I got my kit for 25 dollers. Installing is just the same as changing a strut to knuckle bolt. This should only be done when alignment will be done right afterwords. This is also the most likely cause of a pull on a maxima after lowering.

Caster is not adjustable. Yes there are tricks that can be done by shifting the subframe. It's not very likely you will find a shop skilled enough to do this or that is just willing to take the time. Either way the adjustment would be very minimal. Also if it's out of adjustment that bad you either have worn parts or bent parts.

As for the rear. It is a good idea to have the axle beam centered like described in a link above. Either way there is no real adjustment other than doing that. All adjusting the beam will do is fix the thrust angle.

Show some specs from the alignment shops and real help can be provided.

 

I will post up alignment specs later on for you guys.

 

make sure your spring is sitting correctly in the strut.from my experience with my old maxima a 99,my car would pull to the right also,and syeering wheel was crooked.I checked my struts and the passenger side spring and strut mount was sitting crooked.after i corrected it the pull was less.then i did the alignment,it was perfect after that.i was dropped on eibach's though.just my personal experience.

 

sound sgood i will try that. because my springs i thinks is moving inside the strut plate when i turn the wheel i heard that it was the mount bearing but i will try again.

 

I'm getting mine done soon, so alignment specs would be great!

 

"toe adjustment from the factory. This rarely will cause a pull if out of adjustment." mmmmm hhmmmm come on bro,dont talk like that,wow

 

Here we go sorry for taking so long lol haven't been in my car until today!

Hope this helps some of you. Also I still have very slight pull to the right. Not as bad as before where I had to hold the steering wheel to the left. My steering wheel is also offset a bit towards the right side after the alignment. I don't have to hold it though.



Before:


After:

 

Not that bad. I would just get some camber kits installed for the front to level out the tires a bit and then have it readjusted.

 

looks like you just need a camber kit.

 

Camber kits should be a MUST for all maxima owners that are lowered. This will help with less extreme camber issues and reduce the bump steer... also resulting in a smoother ride.

Only downside is that they tend to get whacked out of spec sooner than stock strut bolts.

 

I agree, I have had to have my alignment adjusted a bit more frequent after getting the kits.

The best camber solution would be to get adjustable camber plates but very expensive.

I believe somebody is selling a set on here in the classified section for something like $450.00

 

What are the other options for a cheaper camber kit?

And how complicated it is to install it? And adjust it?


I have bought illuminas + progress springs in the fall and I am waiting for spring season to install them, but now I am a little concerned about this alignment issues...


anyone with progress springs + illuminas having the same issues?

 

They charge you an extra 25$ cause your car is lowered?

 

My camber is within spec on Illuminas + Progress... Don't waste your time or money.

 

you know where this thread is?! I'm trying to find it to no avail... .

I put on Illuminas as an addition to the Eibachs that my maxima came with. At the same time I put on G35 18s.

Rear Pass is rubbing with people in the back seat, but the driver side is perfectly fine. There is an obvious gap difference...

Thanks!

 

Just had my alignment done, my camber is set at -2.5 and my toe is +1.0, I still have small bump steer, but I handle really really well, better then my S2K I would say

 

I'm getting my car checked out soon for a similar issue. So the correct specs for the caster should be 2.6 degrees on each side? Also, what is the name of those printouts that you ask for?