It reminded me that i got my LED done too right after seeing jeff5347's thread, haha.
k... i received my 100 led too here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=320055044703

got it done few weeks ago, blown 2 fuse due to my sucky soldering skills

just took some pic with my phone, quality maybe bad, and it's 2:30 in the morning, i cant fall asleep><, i'll put up some day time pic maybe tomorrow...
here you go...



I might be wrong with this, please correct me if i am wrong... i only done grade 12 physics ever since haha... but i tested turning it on for more then 15 mins, resister dont get much heat... so i think it should be fine this way...

here is the lighting part:

 

 

 

could somebody conform that my wiring is correct? i don't want to point anyone to the wrong way... and enjoy~

 

Hey Lala,
your diagram looks good. the leds are wired series and them the string of leds and the resistor are wired in parallel. Here is a site that you enter what the forward LED voltage is, what the max Ma is going to be and the source voltage and how many leds and it gives you a schematic, diagram or ASCll layout. Very informative for a noob on electronics.

On a side note the LEDS you have are super bright. Very nice. and 55000 mcd. holy bajesus. Wow. We should go into business.

 

Okay, since both of you posted here I'm going to let you guys in on some info.

First of all, your car does 2 voltages, ~14v and 12v.

You only see 12v when your car is off and it is taking it from the batter.
You see ~14v when the car is on and the alternator is providing the power to the car.

Since you guys do know about the volts and current and stuff I'll get to the point.

The correct way to select the right number of LEDs and resistor is this:

take the Voltage (which I use 14v to be safest) and subtract the foward voltage of each LED in the string.
I also use the middle of the range (range of 3 to 3.8 in the middle is 3.4v)

So, you used 3 LEDs per string
14v - 3.4 - 3.4 - 3.4 = 3.8v left over. This is what the resistor has to work with to limit the current.

So... we have 3.8v left over and you want 0.02 amps to go through your LED string. (0.02 amps = 20milliamps (mA))
To find the resistor all you do is take the leftover voltage and divide by the current you want. This MUST be in AMPS, NOT MILLIAMPS.
3.8 / 0.02 = 190 ohms.

Now, you must be wondering, why use 14v and not the 12v? I do this because if you calculate everything with 12v, then when you turn the car on, ALL of your LEDs get MORE current than you anticipated, which will burn them out. And if you use 14v and there is only 12v running through them, your putting LESS current through them, which is not a problem.

I used a maximum of 4 LEDs per string for my car, and 3 of my friends cars and mine have been running for over a month and a half with no problems yet. It just leaves 0.4v left over, so the resistor has to do less work.

Hope this is informative. Also, go here for some good electronics info.

http://metku.net/index.html?path=mod...oppi/index_eng

 

Were you able to do everything with just the 100 pack of LEDs?

Also, what do you mount the LEDs into under the different light lenses? Do you have any pics of the mounting...something taken in the day without the lens cover on? They line up so perfectly.

 

Good chance he used the solderable perf board you can buy at radio shack. Its a grid of holes with copper pads than you can align yourself to any thing you want.

Thats what I have used anyway...

 

check my sig. It has a pic of my ride but also 29 other pics. All from the AE fog lights to the led int lights. Also dark v good call on the 14 volt. Was the 100 led enough. Oh god yea. You figure for the maps it was 12 leds each= 24
doors 6 each=12 and the dome was 24, so thats 12. 24, 24 = 60. Yea i have 40 leds left over. all i spent was 20 bucks on the leds resistors and pcb board (radio shack) so i still have much stuff left over. Looking to do accent lighting like in the cup holder, console, glove box, trunk. any ideas on lighting anywhere else. Oh question. if you were to do this on the vanity lights on the sun guards.. how do you pull the plastci out to replace the bulbs?

 

I wouldn't recommend changing the vanity mirror lights.

If you have any girls / guys that are REALLY into looks, then white LEDs are some of the worst lighting you can use. The problem is, white LEDs are FAR from actual white light.

White LEDs are made from blue LEDs, that have a yellow coating over them. Go ahead, look directly into the LED (WHEN ITS OFF!) and you will see a little yellow dot. They actually provide horrible light for viewing colors, IE, if your girl wants to check out her makeup/looks. Colors will look dull and washed out, even though they are bright as hell!

On my car, when I am done with it, Will only have 4 halogen bulbs remaining, and those are in the vanity mirrors.

But getting that plastic off is a PITA. And you will see you have VERY little room in there.

 

Jeff, I cannot access you pic gallery from the link in your sig. It says that your session has times out. Any other ideas on how I can get in there?

 

that is a really nice and clean set up. i should use that board from radio shack. thats super bright interior lights, nicely done

 

I dont know why it did that. Im making a cardomain page now so give it till tonight and check back on it. I will have the pics up to stay.

 

Cardomain made. Check its glory. I need to make one for my 68 Camaro too. Nice

 

wow very nice is that hard to do?

 

The site or the leds. The site was fairly easy just time consuming.
The leds were easy. Any one that has questions and want to do it them selves pm and ill give my cell and answer your questions.

 

nice guy thanks jeff!!!!