Dome light completely not working anymore....
Dome light completely not working anymore....
My dome light has been out for the last 6 months, and I cannot figure out why it is not working. Everything else in the car works, so I don't think it's a fuse problem. I took apart the dome assembly, and everything is intact and as it should be. I had an LED bulb in there, which I thought might've went bad, but even using a regular bulb it doesn't shine. Any more ideas to find a fix? Thanks
dont wanna sound like a smart a$$ but is the swtich in the on, door, or off position? also check the button on the door... the one that pushes in when the door locks to turn off the light.... it might be stuck in the off postion.... you'll have to pull of the rubber cover and pull out the button and try to lube it up
good luck
good luck
If you have a VOM (Volt/Ohm Meter), check the voltage at the bulb terminals. Check the voltage with the switch in the "always on" position. You should get a voltage reading greater than zero (more like 12.0V - 13.6V DC).
Then, check the bulb terminals in the "door open" position (with the door open obviously - the driver's door is the most used, so this is most likely switch to fail). You should get the same voltage reading.
If you get voltage reading in both positions, then the bulb is bad. If you get readings in one position, but not the other, the a switch is bad (switch in the dome and/or door switches).
If you don't get any voltage reading on either switch setting, then check the fuse for the dome light using the continuity tester in your VOM. If the fuse has continuity, then check the voltage on the terminals in the fuse block for voltage (again, same readings - 12.0v - 13.6v DC).
If you don't have voltage at the fuse block, then you'll have to dig up a wiring diagram to trace down the broken wire between the fuse block and the battery. If you have voltage at the fuse block, but not at the bulb, then you either have a broken switch, a faulty wire, or a faulty dimming circuit.
You can test for a faulty wire by using the continuity tester between the fuse block and the bulb terminal. (You're testing the hot/positive side here.)
If you have continuity between the fuse block and the bulb terminal, then you'll need to test for bad ground between the other bulb terminal and a known, good grounding point.
Any of the switches could have a bad ground..... You can measure the voltage across the battery terminals to find out what voltage reading you should be getting. Don't worry if the reading at the dome light if off by a little compared to the battery - anything around 12v should be decent enough.
You can check the bulb to see if it's good, just like you checked the fuse.
Then, check the bulb terminals in the "door open" position (with the door open obviously - the driver's door is the most used, so this is most likely switch to fail). You should get the same voltage reading.
If you get voltage reading in both positions, then the bulb is bad. If you get readings in one position, but not the other, the a switch is bad (switch in the dome and/or door switches).
If you don't get any voltage reading on either switch setting, then check the fuse for the dome light using the continuity tester in your VOM. If the fuse has continuity, then check the voltage on the terminals in the fuse block for voltage (again, same readings - 12.0v - 13.6v DC).
If you don't have voltage at the fuse block, then you'll have to dig up a wiring diagram to trace down the broken wire between the fuse block and the battery. If you have voltage at the fuse block, but not at the bulb, then you either have a broken switch, a faulty wire, or a faulty dimming circuit.
You can test for a faulty wire by using the continuity tester between the fuse block and the bulb terminal. (You're testing the hot/positive side here.)
If you have continuity between the fuse block and the bulb terminal, then you'll need to test for bad ground between the other bulb terminal and a known, good grounding point.
Any of the switches could have a bad ground..... You can measure the voltage across the battery terminals to find out what voltage reading you should be getting. Don't worry if the reading at the dome light if off by a little compared to the battery - anything around 12v should be decent enough.
You can check the bulb to see if it's good, just like you checked the fuse.
Originally Posted by n3985
My dome light has been out for the last 6 months, and I cannot figure out why it is not working. Everything else in the car works, so I don't think it's a fuse problem. I took apart the dome assembly, and everything is intact and as it should be. I had an LED bulb in there, which I thought might've went bad, but even using a regular bulb it doesn't shine. Any more ideas to find a fix? Thanks
I bought some Led bulb, which wasn't working properly... and after driving w/o any bulb for 2-3 days..., my dome light stopped to work properly... I mean it was lighting just on ON possition, no AUTO... and no slow switching off function.... I was told that the issue was cased by a faulty Control Module of the doom light, which is located in the dash, somewhere behind the radio...
Good luck
Originally Posted by n3985
So how did you fix it?
I think the time control unit was shot as far as i can remember... and it was quite expensive. Something around $200...
ground issue as well... check if u have a good ground or else it might or might not work... worth a try... i remember doing leds for my car and until i screwd it in it wouldn't work... ehhh
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