5th Gen 5spd swap, write up as I go. FOLLOW MY PROGRESS HERE
5th Gen 5spd swap, write up as I go. FOLLOW MY PROGRESS HERE
Im basically going to add on to Hal's write up for the 4th gen as I go and run into differences with the 5th gen....so here goes:
1. Install pedals and clutch hydraulic system
Tools needed:
· Drill
· Phillips head screw driver
· Metric socket set w/ extensions
· Good drill bit set
· Pencil
· Dremel tool with various metal cutting bits
1.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) you don't want to burn anything up or blow your airbags.
1.2 Remove lower drivers dash cover (2 Phillips head screws at the bottom)
· Pull the cover off w/ caution not to damage the clips at the top.
1.3 Remove the clip and pin that hold the brake pedal cable on.
1.4 Remove the 4 nuts that hold the break pedal on.
1.5 Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the top of the break pedal on.
· You will see where it goes because you will have manual one as a reference
· Hopefully you have bought a matching bolt from Nissan, if not take it to the dealer and get one. You can't install the clutch pedal w/out it.
1.6 Remove the brake pedal.
1.7 Install the new pedal. (Put the 4 nuts on and the one bolt)
1.8 Put the locking pin in and the clip.
1.9 Look up where it seems the clutch should mount.
1.10 If you see a hole in the padding good. If not, you can see it outlined. (Pull it out)
1.11 Now you should be faced w/ a perfect padding hole but no hole through the firewall.
1.12 Make a trace of the master cylinder (I used cardboard)
· It will have a big hole and 2 little ones for the bolts
1.13 Cut out your trace and slide it over the master cylinder to make sure it is accurate.
1.14 Mark the top of your trace (that canister on the master cylinder is up)
1.15 Fit it into that area that is punched out under the dash and draw an outline (pencil works great)
1.16 Open the hood.
1.17 Look into the upper driver side area against the firewall.
· You will see the cruise unit.
· It is the only electronic item in that area.
1.18 Remove it.
· There will be one bolt on it and 2 nuts that you access in the wheel well.
1.19 Drill your 2 small holes for the master cylinder from your trace. (From the inside of the car was the easiest.)
1.20 Test the clutch pedal (by putting it through the holes you drilled)
· The clutch pedal should be upright and level.
· It should fit in there w/out force.
· If it does not fit adjust the holes so it does.
1.21 Drill a good size hole in the big part of the trace (Where the master cylinder goes.)
1.22 Use your tree stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.
1.23 Use your cylinder stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.
1.24 Test the master cylinder in the hole.
· If it does not fit correct the hole
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size). You can recreate it by getting some 3/4 inch steel spacers from a hardware store.
1.25 Look above where the pedal mounts to the cylinder. There should be 2 studs behind a bracket that the top of the clutch pedal must mount to. (Hopefully you got the nuts and bolts from the donor car so youll have these.)
1.26 Install the clutch pedal and master cylinder.
1.27 Install the bolt you acquired to match the brake pedal bolt. (The car has this place built in just look for the place)
1.28 Install the locking pin to join the master cylinder and the clutch pedal.
1.29 Put the pin in it.
1.30 Reinstall every panel you removed except the one you tossed.
2. Bypass the P-N start switch
2.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) to make sure you don't mess something up electrically.
2.2 Remove the entire air box assembly and lines so you can see onto the top of your tranny.
2.3 Disconnect the harness that sits on top of the tranny next to the starter. There should be 2 plugs there, disconnect the one toward the front, the 2nd one away from the starter. Picture below:
2.4 Use the Green/Orange wire and the Black wire (these should be terminals 1 and 2 on the plug, refer to FSM) from this plug.
2.5 Take the Green/Orange wire and connect it to the Sky Blue wire on the clutch switch. Take the Black wire and connect it to the Black wire on the clutch switch.
2.6 Don't reconnect the plug.
2.7 Connect the battery.
2.8 Put your parking brake on
2.9 Try to crank your car (Don't start it, just see if it cranks)
· If it does not, re-tap the wires or connect them in some way. And try to start again.
· If it still does not start you can't follow instructions and are not capable of doing this yourself since it is the easiest part.
1. Install pedals and clutch hydraulic system
Tools needed:
· Drill
· Phillips head screw driver
· Metric socket set w/ extensions
· Good drill bit set
· Pencil
· Dremel tool with various metal cutting bits
1.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) you don't want to burn anything up or blow your airbags.
1.2 Remove lower drivers dash cover (2 Phillips head screws at the bottom)
· Pull the cover off w/ caution not to damage the clips at the top.
1.3 Remove the clip and pin that hold the brake pedal cable on.
1.4 Remove the 4 nuts that hold the break pedal on.
1.5 Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the top of the break pedal on.
· You will see where it goes because you will have manual one as a reference
· Hopefully you have bought a matching bolt from Nissan, if not take it to the dealer and get one. You can't install the clutch pedal w/out it.
1.6 Remove the brake pedal.
1.7 Install the new pedal. (Put the 4 nuts on and the one bolt)
1.8 Put the locking pin in and the clip.
1.9 Look up where it seems the clutch should mount.
1.10 If you see a hole in the padding good. If not, you can see it outlined. (Pull it out)
1.11 Now you should be faced w/ a perfect padding hole but no hole through the firewall.
1.12 Make a trace of the master cylinder (I used cardboard)
· It will have a big hole and 2 little ones for the bolts
1.13 Cut out your trace and slide it over the master cylinder to make sure it is accurate.
1.14 Mark the top of your trace (that canister on the master cylinder is up)
1.15 Fit it into that area that is punched out under the dash and draw an outline (pencil works great)
1.16 Open the hood.
1.17 Look into the upper driver side area against the firewall.
· You will see the cruise unit.
· It is the only electronic item in that area.
1.18 Remove it.
· There will be one bolt on it and 2 nuts that you access in the wheel well.
1.19 Drill your 2 small holes for the master cylinder from your trace. (From the inside of the car was the easiest.)
1.20 Test the clutch pedal (by putting it through the holes you drilled)
· The clutch pedal should be upright and level.
· It should fit in there w/out force.
· If it does not fit adjust the holes so it does.
1.21 Drill a good size hole in the big part of the trace (Where the master cylinder goes.)
1.22 Use your tree stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.
1.23 Use your cylinder stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.
1.24 Test the master cylinder in the hole.
· If it does not fit correct the hole
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size). You can recreate it by getting some 3/4 inch steel spacers from a hardware store.
1.25 Look above where the pedal mounts to the cylinder. There should be 2 studs behind a bracket that the top of the clutch pedal must mount to. (Hopefully you got the nuts and bolts from the donor car so youll have these.)
1.26 Install the clutch pedal and master cylinder.
1.27 Install the bolt you acquired to match the brake pedal bolt. (The car has this place built in just look for the place)
1.28 Install the locking pin to join the master cylinder and the clutch pedal.
1.29 Put the pin in it.
1.30 Reinstall every panel you removed except the one you tossed.
2. Bypass the P-N start switch
2.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) to make sure you don't mess something up electrically.
2.2 Remove the entire air box assembly and lines so you can see onto the top of your tranny.
2.3 Disconnect the harness that sits on top of the tranny next to the starter. There should be 2 plugs there, disconnect the one toward the front, the 2nd one away from the starter. Picture below:
2.4 Use the Green/Orange wire and the Black wire (these should be terminals 1 and 2 on the plug, refer to FSM) from this plug.
2.5 Take the Green/Orange wire and connect it to the Sky Blue wire on the clutch switch. Take the Black wire and connect it to the Black wire on the clutch switch.
2.6 Don't reconnect the plug.
2.7 Connect the battery.
2.8 Put your parking brake on
2.9 Try to crank your car (Don't start it, just see if it cranks)
· If it does not, re-tap the wires or connect them in some way. And try to start again.
· If it still does not start you can't follow instructions and are not capable of doing this yourself since it is the easiest part.
3. Remove Drive shafts
Tools Needed:
· Phillips head screw driver
· Flat head screw driver
· Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
· Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
· A good breaker bar
· 1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
· Needle nose pliers
· 1 jack
· 2 jack stands
3.1 Get on totally nasty "throw away" clothes because you are not going to even want to see them ever again!
3.2 Loosen lug nuts.
3.3 Jack the car up very high, to where the tires are about 9-12in above the ground. Place jack stands under it!!!
3.4 Remove your wheels.
· Apply 3.5 – 3.11 parts to both wheels.
3.5 Remove the cotter pin from the center of the rotor area (Wheel Hub)
3.7 Insert the screw driver into the rotor (in those little holes around the diameter)
3.8 Remove that Huge Nut in the center of the rotor. (1.5 inch socket and the breaker bar will be necessary)
3.9 Get the washer off and keep all of these parts clean.
3.10 Remove the 2 strut mounting bolts.
3.11 Fold the knuckle (brake assembly) out of the way while LIGHTLY banging on the end of the big threaded shaft you removed the large nut from
· Don't screw up the treads. You can protect them by putting the nut back on and making it even w/ the end.
3.12 You should now have the driveshaft hanging free on the outsides of the car.
3.13 On the driver's side, push the driveshaft in a little bit (It compresses), and yank it out – you might have to do it a few times before it comes free. (It will POP out)
3.14 Remove that driveshaft and be very careful not to break the rubber boots.
3.15 On the passenger side, you must go under the car and find the support that the driveshaft goes through before it gets to the tranny. It's a pain to get at, but there are 3 bolts in a triangle around the outside of the support holding the driveshaft in.
3.16 Remove the three 12mm bolts, and then push in the shaft and pull it out. Be very careful not the break the rubber boots and gently set the two drive shafts aside.
3.17 Pat Yourself on the back you have successfully removed your drive shafts.
Note: Your Shocks/Springs are only 8 min and 3 bolts away from replacement if you want to do it at this time.
Tools Needed:
· Phillips head screw driver
· Flat head screw driver
· Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
· Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
· A good breaker bar
· 1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
· Needle nose pliers
· 1 jack
· 2 jack stands
3.1 Get on totally nasty "throw away" clothes because you are not going to even want to see them ever again!
3.2 Loosen lug nuts.
3.3 Jack the car up very high, to where the tires are about 9-12in above the ground. Place jack stands under it!!!
3.4 Remove your wheels.
· Apply 3.5 – 3.11 parts to both wheels.
3.5 Remove the cotter pin from the center of the rotor area (Wheel Hub)
3.7 Insert the screw driver into the rotor (in those little holes around the diameter)
3.8 Remove that Huge Nut in the center of the rotor. (1.5 inch socket and the breaker bar will be necessary)
3.9 Get the washer off and keep all of these parts clean.
3.10 Remove the 2 strut mounting bolts.
3.11 Fold the knuckle (brake assembly) out of the way while LIGHTLY banging on the end of the big threaded shaft you removed the large nut from
· Don't screw up the treads. You can protect them by putting the nut back on and making it even w/ the end.
3.12 You should now have the driveshaft hanging free on the outsides of the car.
3.13 On the driver's side, push the driveshaft in a little bit (It compresses), and yank it out – you might have to do it a few times before it comes free. (It will POP out)
3.14 Remove that driveshaft and be very careful not to break the rubber boots.
3.15 On the passenger side, you must go under the car and find the support that the driveshaft goes through before it gets to the tranny. It's a pain to get at, but there are 3 bolts in a triangle around the outside of the support holding the driveshaft in.
3.16 Remove the three 12mm bolts, and then push in the shaft and pull it out. Be very careful not the break the rubber boots and gently set the two drive shafts aside.
3.17 Pat Yourself on the back you have successfully removed your drive shafts.
Note: Your Shocks/Springs are only 8 min and 3 bolts away from replacement if you want to do it at this time.
Originally Posted by Ephraim
just to keep the future noobs questions down, maybe get a zoomed out pic of the P-N switch that you took a pic of so that it can be seen in relation to other items.
4. Remove tranny + torque converter
Tools Needed:
· Everything from drive shaft removal.
· 1 hydraulic Jack
· 1 Nissan Factory Jack
· 2 bricks (You might need them, depends how high your car is)
· One extra person
4.1 You now must remove your whole air intake system from the top of the engine. Everything including the rubber 3" flexible hose. (After your MAF and all that) and unscrew the little clamp. Gently pull it away, and take out all the other bolts (this will be a little different if you have pop vs. cai vs. stock) so you can figure it out. Get all those hoses off and out of the way, so you can see easily down to the tranny.
4.2 Remove all plugs that go into the tranny.
4.3 Remove the dipstick for the auto tranny , it has one bolt at its base.
4.4 Remove the rubber lines that go into the tranny, you can cut them because you won't use them again.
4.5 Remove the plug that connects to the starter
4.6 Remove the fat wire (+) that connects to the starter itself.
4.7 Remove the starter. (2 17mm bolts)
4.8 Pull the starter out.
4.9 Remove the plastic panels from the driver side wheel well so you can see the side of the tranny.
4.10 Remove the linkage line that goes to the front of the tranny (Fat cable that bolts on at the front left corner of the tranny)
4.11 Look at the bottom of the engine (Sort of from the passenger side) and you will see a black cover w/ 2 small bolts.
4.12 Remove the bolts and the cover.
4.13 While looking through this hole use your screwdriver to rotate the flywheel around on the teeth of the flywheel until you see a bolt.
4.14 Use the screwdriver as a wedge to prevent the flywheel from turning and remove the bolt.
4.15 Repeat for all four bolts.
4.16 You now have the torque converter loose from the flexplate so now it can all be removed together in later steps.
4.17 Put your hydraulic jack under the tranny.
· Just on to the tranny, not so much pressure you are jacking the engine up.
4.18 Remove all the bolts that bolt the tranny on (there are 17mm on top and 14mm on the bottom) except for one 17mm on the front. Just loosen it a little.
· These bolts will be hard to break and you will need a breaker bar to loosen them.
4.19 Put your Factory Nissan jack under the support beam (Runs under the Engine/Tranny) toward the front, up close to those 2 bolts but leave enough room so you can loosen and remove them.
· This is where you might need the brick to get up to the beam.
4.20 Look down from the top on to your tranny.
4.21 You will see a motor mount sort of next to your battery w/ 4 bolts going into the tranny
4.22 Remove these bolts.
4.23 Very slowly, lower the transmission 1/2"(Hydraulic Jack) and then the engine 1/2"(Nissan Jack) until they are sitting very low where the transmission is clear of anything in its way coming off the engine.
4.24 Remove the last 17mm bolt that holds the transmission onto the engine.
4.25 Have your extra person ready.
· They will work the jack as you do the wiggling, wedging and clearance checking
4.26 Look for a place between the tranny and the engine that you can stick a screwdriver
4.27 Crack the seal w/ a screwdriver.
4.28 Now pull the tranny away from the engine wiggling it off the engine gently (don't let that rod be bending around or rest the weight on that center shaft!)
4.29 Now, using the jack slowly lower the transmission to the point where you can roll it out the driver side wheel well.
4.30 You should have taken the 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate off earlier, you need to remove the tranny with the TC still inside it so the weight of the TC isnt hanging on the flexplate & crankshaft.
4.31 Go get some food and Pat yourself on the back.
4.32 Now look at the flywheel and you will see 8 bolts in the center bolting it to the crankshaft.
4.33 Use your screwdriver wedge to break loose all the bolts.
4.34 Remove the bolts and your flywheel.
4.35 Remove the bolt that holds the tranny motor mount and remove it.
· The manual one is different.
4.36 Good job, you just ate so I would continue installing your new clutch setup.
5. Install clutch
Tools Needed:
· Torque wrench
· Hayes Manual
· Metric Socket Set
· Screwdriver
· Clutch aligning tool
5.1 Take your flywheel, line it up on the engine, and attach it in place of the old one.
5.2 Torque it to the specs in the Hayes Manual, using your screwdriver as a wedge.
5.3 Make sure the flywheel is VERY clean, no grease on it… if there is use 409 or some brake cleaner to clean it, and sand it with 180grit or more sandpaper. VERY IMPORTANT that it is clean.
5.4 Put in your clutch aligning/centering tool in the engine hole.
5.5 Slide your clutch on over the tool.
5.6 Slide on the centering piece of the tool and get the clutch just right.
5.7 Put on the new pressure plate you have, make sure the clutch is centered and pressure plate lines up right, and bolt it all down, making sure you do it with a torque wrench as it is VERY important in there.
5.8 Remove the tool.
5.9 Now go get some sleep seeing you probably did most of this yourself and it took all day.
Tools Needed:
· Everything from drive shaft removal.
· 1 hydraulic Jack
· 1 Nissan Factory Jack
· 2 bricks (You might need them, depends how high your car is)
· One extra person
4.1 You now must remove your whole air intake system from the top of the engine. Everything including the rubber 3" flexible hose. (After your MAF and all that) and unscrew the little clamp. Gently pull it away, and take out all the other bolts (this will be a little different if you have pop vs. cai vs. stock) so you can figure it out. Get all those hoses off and out of the way, so you can see easily down to the tranny.
4.2 Remove all plugs that go into the tranny.
4.3 Remove the dipstick for the auto tranny , it has one bolt at its base.
4.4 Remove the rubber lines that go into the tranny, you can cut them because you won't use them again.
4.5 Remove the plug that connects to the starter
4.6 Remove the fat wire (+) that connects to the starter itself.
4.7 Remove the starter. (2 17mm bolts)
4.8 Pull the starter out.
4.9 Remove the plastic panels from the driver side wheel well so you can see the side of the tranny.
4.10 Remove the linkage line that goes to the front of the tranny (Fat cable that bolts on at the front left corner of the tranny)
4.11 Look at the bottom of the engine (Sort of from the passenger side) and you will see a black cover w/ 2 small bolts.
4.12 Remove the bolts and the cover.
4.13 While looking through this hole use your screwdriver to rotate the flywheel around on the teeth of the flywheel until you see a bolt.
4.14 Use the screwdriver as a wedge to prevent the flywheel from turning and remove the bolt.
4.15 Repeat for all four bolts.
4.16 You now have the torque converter loose from the flexplate so now it can all be removed together in later steps.
4.17 Put your hydraulic jack under the tranny.
· Just on to the tranny, not so much pressure you are jacking the engine up.
4.18 Remove all the bolts that bolt the tranny on (there are 17mm on top and 14mm on the bottom) except for one 17mm on the front. Just loosen it a little.
· These bolts will be hard to break and you will need a breaker bar to loosen them.
4.19 Put your Factory Nissan jack under the support beam (Runs under the Engine/Tranny) toward the front, up close to those 2 bolts but leave enough room so you can loosen and remove them.
· This is where you might need the brick to get up to the beam.
4.20 Look down from the top on to your tranny.
4.21 You will see a motor mount sort of next to your battery w/ 4 bolts going into the tranny
4.22 Remove these bolts.
4.23 Very slowly, lower the transmission 1/2"(Hydraulic Jack) and then the engine 1/2"(Nissan Jack) until they are sitting very low where the transmission is clear of anything in its way coming off the engine.
4.24 Remove the last 17mm bolt that holds the transmission onto the engine.
4.25 Have your extra person ready.
· They will work the jack as you do the wiggling, wedging and clearance checking
4.26 Look for a place between the tranny and the engine that you can stick a screwdriver
4.27 Crack the seal w/ a screwdriver.
4.28 Now pull the tranny away from the engine wiggling it off the engine gently (don't let that rod be bending around or rest the weight on that center shaft!)
4.29 Now, using the jack slowly lower the transmission to the point where you can roll it out the driver side wheel well.
4.30 You should have taken the 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flexplate off earlier, you need to remove the tranny with the TC still inside it so the weight of the TC isnt hanging on the flexplate & crankshaft.
4.31 Go get some food and Pat yourself on the back.
4.32 Now look at the flywheel and you will see 8 bolts in the center bolting it to the crankshaft.
4.33 Use your screwdriver wedge to break loose all the bolts.
4.34 Remove the bolts and your flywheel.
4.35 Remove the bolt that holds the tranny motor mount and remove it.
· The manual one is different.
4.36 Good job, you just ate so I would continue installing your new clutch setup.
5. Install clutch
Tools Needed:
· Torque wrench
· Hayes Manual
· Metric Socket Set
· Screwdriver
· Clutch aligning tool
5.1 Take your flywheel, line it up on the engine, and attach it in place of the old one.
5.2 Torque it to the specs in the Hayes Manual, using your screwdriver as a wedge.
5.3 Make sure the flywheel is VERY clean, no grease on it… if there is use 409 or some brake cleaner to clean it, and sand it with 180grit or more sandpaper. VERY IMPORTANT that it is clean.
5.4 Put in your clutch aligning/centering tool in the engine hole.
5.5 Slide your clutch on over the tool.
5.6 Slide on the centering piece of the tool and get the clutch just right.
5.7 Put on the new pressure plate you have, make sure the clutch is centered and pressure plate lines up right, and bolt it all down, making sure you do it with a torque wrench as it is VERY important in there.
5.8 Remove the tool.
5.9 Now go get some sleep seeing you probably did most of this yourself and it took all day.
the write up is excellent... i just did this project this weekend... due to my tranny going out... and this write was great help... but quik question how did u manage to get ur speedo working... +1 for the sticky thingy
Originally Posted by KabirUTA13
the write up is excellent... i just did this project this weekend... due to my tranny going out... and this write was great help... but quik question how did u manage to get ur speedo working... +1 for the sticky thingy
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=510585
and this one:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=510584
Originally Posted by eng92
I wired it the same way as an 01 would be without traction control. They use a tranny-based speed sensor just like the 4th gen.
One wire to the cluster and the other one is connected to the sensor ground on the ecu.
One wire to the cluster and the other one is connected to the sensor ground on the ecu.
Originally Posted by KabirUTA13
i actually have tcs... and it still works!!!! but no speedo or reverse! hmmm iamma have to rewire that sucker!
nah reverse works lol hehehe but not the light... ya i was reading on the threads u gave me good info i didn't have a chance to look throo the fsm my self but wen i get some time i def will
Originally Posted by RS-Maxima
What is the procedure for the shift linkage and console? After surveying my vehicle it seems this would be a more complicated task. Anyone?
6. Install the Tranny
Tools Needed:
-Torque wrench
-Hayes Manual
-Metric Socket Set
-Screwdriver
-1 hydraulic Jack
-1 Transmission Jack (HIGHLY recommended)
-One extra person
6.1 Put the manual motor mount back up into the car w/ the "M" symbol facing the engine.
6.2 Put the 5spd tranny on the jack and roll it in through the wheel well the same as you took the other out.
6.3 Slowly lift it up w/ the jack to where it seems to be aligned.
6.4 Make sure that it is lined up just perfectly level w/ the engine when doing this, because once you put it on the engine, it is virtually impossible to rotate it and it HAS to line up PERFECT for the bolts to go in (Can be very frustrating)
6.5 Here is the hardest part, wiggle the transmission over toward the engine until it is flush. Be sure to have the shaft going through the middle of the of the pressure plate. If it won't continue to travel rotate the flywheel (w/ your screw driver) just a little and try it again. The shaft and clutch have little teeth that need to align.
6.6 Quick put a bolt on (The front 17mm is the easiest)
6.7 Work all the way around the tranny putting the bolts on. You might need the jack to make small alignment adjustments to get some bolts on. Make sure and leave the bolt (or both of them if you are going to try) for the shifter stabilizer out so you don't do it twice
6.8 Lift the tranny 1/2" and the engine 1/2" and so on and so forth till its back up. Have your helper make sure the motor mount does not bind and lines up w/ the holes on the tranny.
6.9 Put the bolts in the support beam and the motor mount onto the top of the tranny.
6.10 Put in the starter using the two bolts.
6.11 Torque all the bolts to spec.
6.12 Connect all the wires back to the starter.
6.13 Plug in whichever harnesses still plug together.
6.14 Put the plastic panels back on in the left wheel well.
6.15 Fill the tranny w/ fluid using the holes where the drive shafts go in. It is full when fluid starts coming out of the hole.
6.16 You are almost there you have done everything hard.
Tools Needed:
-Torque wrench
-Hayes Manual
-Metric Socket Set
-Screwdriver
-1 hydraulic Jack
-1 Transmission Jack (HIGHLY recommended)
-One extra person
6.1 Put the manual motor mount back up into the car w/ the "M" symbol facing the engine.
6.2 Put the 5spd tranny on the jack and roll it in through the wheel well the same as you took the other out.
6.3 Slowly lift it up w/ the jack to where it seems to be aligned.
6.4 Make sure that it is lined up just perfectly level w/ the engine when doing this, because once you put it on the engine, it is virtually impossible to rotate it and it HAS to line up PERFECT for the bolts to go in (Can be very frustrating)
6.5 Here is the hardest part, wiggle the transmission over toward the engine until it is flush. Be sure to have the shaft going through the middle of the of the pressure plate. If it won't continue to travel rotate the flywheel (w/ your screw driver) just a little and try it again. The shaft and clutch have little teeth that need to align.
6.6 Quick put a bolt on (The front 17mm is the easiest)
6.7 Work all the way around the tranny putting the bolts on. You might need the jack to make small alignment adjustments to get some bolts on. Make sure and leave the bolt (or both of them if you are going to try) for the shifter stabilizer out so you don't do it twice
6.8 Lift the tranny 1/2" and the engine 1/2" and so on and so forth till its back up. Have your helper make sure the motor mount does not bind and lines up w/ the holes on the tranny.
6.9 Put the bolts in the support beam and the motor mount onto the top of the tranny.
6.10 Put in the starter using the two bolts.
6.11 Torque all the bolts to spec.
6.12 Connect all the wires back to the starter.
6.13 Plug in whichever harnesses still plug together.
6.14 Put the plastic panels back on in the left wheel well.
6.15 Fill the tranny w/ fluid using the holes where the drive shafts go in. It is full when fluid starts coming out of the hole.
6.16 You are almost there you have done everything hard.
7. Replace old shifter console w/ new and run shifting rods to tranny
Tools Needed:
-Phillips head screw driver
-Flat head screw driver
-Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
-Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
-A good breaker bar
-1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
-Needle nose pliers
7.1 Now comes some fun. From inside the car, pry up the console piece that sits around your automatic shifter w/ the screwdriver.
7.2 Pull it off and out of the way.
7.3 Take the screw out that holds the shifter handle on.
7.4 Pull it up and down while trying to pull the button off. It will come off the shaft.
7.5 Remove the cover w/ the shift indicators on it (has some Phillips head screws)
7.6 Look down into the hole and you will see 2 cables coming in.
7.7 The small one on the left (Toward passenger side) is the key release linkage.
7.8 Remove the clip that holds it on and pull it out a little (in only moves 1/8 of an inch) wrap tape around it so it can't move. I does not want to move so don't worry.
7.9 Remove the larger cable and bend it out of the way.
7.10 You can remove the cable or cut or bend it, it was what changed the gears in the automatic but is now useless. I removed mine and used the hole in the firewall to run my wires inside.
7.11 Remove the 2 nuts on the top that holds the Aluminum frame onto the painted area of the car.
7.12 There will be two nuts holding the assembly up from the underneath.
7.13 Go under the car, and pull the rubber things that hold your exhaust up there are 3.
7.14 Unbolt the heat shield on the ends (not in the middle) so you can get under it.
7.15 Take out the two bolts from the bottom that hold the shifter piece in your car, and remove it from the top.
7.16 Run the two shifting rods above the heat shield.
7.17 Put the shifter piece in the car from the top, but don't bolt it.
7.18 Go back underneath the car and put the spring in (It runs between the 2 rods)
7.19 Bolt in the shifter.
7.20 Attach the support rod (W/ 2 bolts if you can get them) to the Tranny/Engine. There is only one place it will bolt so it won't be too hard to find.
7.21 Attach the shifter control rod to the transmission
7.22 Put trim piece back inside of car and screw on the shift ****.
Tools Needed:
-Phillips head screw driver
-Flat head screw driver
-Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
-Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
-A good breaker bar
-1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
-Needle nose pliers
7.1 Now comes some fun. From inside the car, pry up the console piece that sits around your automatic shifter w/ the screwdriver.
7.2 Pull it off and out of the way.
7.3 Take the screw out that holds the shifter handle on.
7.4 Pull it up and down while trying to pull the button off. It will come off the shaft.
7.5 Remove the cover w/ the shift indicators on it (has some Phillips head screws)
7.6 Look down into the hole and you will see 2 cables coming in.
7.7 The small one on the left (Toward passenger side) is the key release linkage.
7.8 Remove the clip that holds it on and pull it out a little (in only moves 1/8 of an inch) wrap tape around it so it can't move. I does not want to move so don't worry.
7.9 Remove the larger cable and bend it out of the way.
7.10 You can remove the cable or cut or bend it, it was what changed the gears in the automatic but is now useless. I removed mine and used the hole in the firewall to run my wires inside.
7.11 Remove the 2 nuts on the top that holds the Aluminum frame onto the painted area of the car.
7.12 There will be two nuts holding the assembly up from the underneath.
7.13 Go under the car, and pull the rubber things that hold your exhaust up there are 3.
7.14 Unbolt the heat shield on the ends (not in the middle) so you can get under it.
7.15 Take out the two bolts from the bottom that hold the shifter piece in your car, and remove it from the top.
7.16 Run the two shifting rods above the heat shield.
7.17 Put the shifter piece in the car from the top, but don't bolt it.
7.18 Go back underneath the car and put the spring in (It runs between the 2 rods)
7.19 Bolt in the shifter.
7.20 Attach the support rod (W/ 2 bolts if you can get them) to the Tranny/Engine. There is only one place it will bolt so it won't be too hard to find.
7.21 Attach the shifter control rod to the transmission
7.22 Put trim piece back inside of car and screw on the shift ****.
8. Reinstall drive shafts
Tools Needed:
-Phillips head screw driver
-Flat head screw driver
-Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
-Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
-A good breaker bar
-1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
-Needle nose pliers
-1 jack
8.1 Reinstall the MANUAL drive shafts. (Passenger side is the same for the 5th gen, driver side must be changed to manual shaft.)
8.2 Put the left one in first.
8.3 Put the shaft in as good as possible. (Be careful not to damage the boots) Then sort of extend the joints and slam them together. The idea is to make it into a self-sufficient hammer. Until it clicks into place. It will!!
8.4 Reinstall the Knuckle (Brake assembly).
8.5 Remember your big washer and be sure to get that big bolt tight.
8.6 Put passenger drive shafts back in, don't forget the triangle that locks the passenger side one in.
8.7 Put center driveshaft bolt back on, cotter pin in, control arm bolt and cotter pin, and two bolts that mount the wheel to the suspension.
8.8 Wheels back on, drop the car.
8.9 Turn the car on; let it idle for about 30 - 60 sec to make sure oil gets through the engine and tranny.
HAVE FUN!!!!!! Remember you have to BABY that clutch all the time for the first 500+ city miles
Tools Needed:
-Phillips head screw driver
-Flat head screw driver
-Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
-Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
-A good breaker bar
-1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
-Needle nose pliers
-1 jack
8.1 Reinstall the MANUAL drive shafts. (Passenger side is the same for the 5th gen, driver side must be changed to manual shaft.)
8.2 Put the left one in first.
8.3 Put the shaft in as good as possible. (Be careful not to damage the boots) Then sort of extend the joints and slam them together. The idea is to make it into a self-sufficient hammer. Until it clicks into place. It will!!
8.4 Reinstall the Knuckle (Brake assembly).
8.5 Remember your big washer and be sure to get that big bolt tight.
8.6 Put passenger drive shafts back in, don't forget the triangle that locks the passenger side one in.
8.7 Put center driveshaft bolt back on, cotter pin in, control arm bolt and cotter pin, and two bolts that mount the wheel to the suspension.
8.8 Wheels back on, drop the car.
8.9 Turn the car on; let it idle for about 30 - 60 sec to make sure oil gets through the engine and tranny.
HAVE FUN!!!!!! Remember you have to BABY that clutch all the time for the first 500+ city miles
REVERSE LIGHTS WIRING:
The back-up lights turn on when a circuit is completed when the transmission is in reverse. This is true for both automatic and manual transmissions. All you have to do is find the correct wires in the automatic harness that go to the gear selector mechanism of the automatic, and splice them into the wires that go to the neutral/reverse position indicator on the manual transmission.
For the 5th gen, the reverse lights use the same connector pictured above as well as the reverse switch harness from the 5 speed tranny. Just refer to the FSM and it will come together very easily. The 2 wires you use from the reverse switch are blue and blue/red stripe. It doesnt matter which way you connect them to the 2 wires on the p/n harness as they will work either way. The wires on the p/n connector are the orange wire and the green/orange stripe wire (correct me if Im wrong I dont have my FSM with me at the moment).
That pretty much sums up the 5th gen 5 speed swap!
Thanks for looking, and also thanks to anyone that has contributed to this writeup as I simply modified to be 5th gen specific.
STICKY PLEASE???
The back-up lights turn on when a circuit is completed when the transmission is in reverse. This is true for both automatic and manual transmissions. All you have to do is find the correct wires in the automatic harness that go to the gear selector mechanism of the automatic, and splice them into the wires that go to the neutral/reverse position indicator on the manual transmission.
For the 5th gen, the reverse lights use the same connector pictured above as well as the reverse switch harness from the 5 speed tranny. Just refer to the FSM and it will come together very easily. The 2 wires you use from the reverse switch are blue and blue/red stripe. It doesnt matter which way you connect them to the 2 wires on the p/n harness as they will work either way. The wires on the p/n connector are the orange wire and the green/orange stripe wire (correct me if Im wrong I dont have my FSM with me at the moment).
That pretty much sums up the 5th gen 5 speed swap!
Thanks for looking, and also thanks to anyone that has contributed to this writeup as I simply modified to be 5th gen specific.
STICKY PLEASE???
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Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Sep 27, 2015 09:53 PM