Will lowering my car on eibachs cause the CV joints to got bad prematurely?
I have heard the clunking only twice and it was when the weather was really cold, like below zero, so this may have caused the grease not to lubricate as well? i don't know

 

No one knows about this?

 

Yes, but not as badly as you see on a lot of cars. Eibachs aren't super-low.


Pretty much.

 

Lowering your Max pretty much puts even more stress on the suspension components! I'm lowered on S.techs and (knock on wood) no CV joint problems! But if the problems do occur just replace em!

 

If i have 57k on the car, about how long will they last if i lower it versus if i dont. i realize this is an extremely vague question that depends on a lot of factors, but im looking for a ballpark figure, like they will last 10000 miles less if you lower it now etc.

 

I have 189,000 miles on my 2k3. So far, I had the stock suspension on for the first 75k, then maxspeeds on from 75-135k and D2's since 135k. I'm still on my original CV's.

'nuff said.

 

Agreed, Eibachs don't lower enough to worry. 3" coilovers is another story though.

 

I'm sitting about 2" lower than stock. any lower and I'd hit every speed bump! (sig pic was on maxspeeds).

 

I've had two maximas now in the past 3 years and I never had cv joint problems I had to replace a lot of boots but that's about it

 

I lowered my 99 with H&R springs and Tokico Illuminia's. Both cv axles needed replacing within 20k miles. I had 100k on the car before lowering. I'm back to stock SE springs now!!

 

You have to be totally slammed to do some damage. These cars aren't as susceptible as hondas to CV failures. In any case, just don't go TOO low (tucking..). Axles are no fun

 

Cv's axles...everything.

 

lowering to a certain degree with def put stress on suspension componets..........

 

I wouldn't worry about it. I've been lowered on Eibachs for over 60k and have never heard a tick out of the CV's.

I doubt there is much of a measurable difference between lowered and stock, unless of course you drive around tucked all day.

 

Thanks for all the responses guys. i guess i will be lowering after all.

 

CV axles aren't part of the suspension....

 

This IS an interesting question -- but I think unless you are SLAMMED and running some excrutiatingly stiff track set-up, that you won't really notice any ill-effects over the normal life of the CV's.
I'm on Progress springs for 40k miles now, and so far, no clicking!

I think it's generally accepted that CV's tend to wear-out because the rubber boots get worn (dry/brittle/cracking) and allow dirt grime & such to pass into the joint itself, in addition to losing the SEAL that retains the grease that keeps the mechanism lubed properly! This is what actually causes most of the premature failures in these parts.
An ounce of prevention....
It's a very good idea to keep your eye on these rubber boots when and if you have your wheels off of the vehicle rotating your tires or changing your "warped" rotors every 10k miles, like me.

Any good mechanic will do this as standard practice in similar instances as well -- now, you just have to TRUST his professional opinion that they may be in need of replacment if you aren't already getting the dreaded CLICKING!
Ask them to SHOW you, and they should be able to identify the cracks and or splits in the boots that could cause the premature failure of this part.

gr

BTW - does anybody know for sure if the BOOTS can be replaced without removing the driveshaft on our vehicles??? Prolly not.....

 

Technically true - it's part of the driveline.

 

if you put it pass 3" then yeah

 

I'v been running D2 coilover on my 2k1 for about 1 year and before I stored the car for winter, I started earing the click noise that tell you it's time to replace cv axles. I've purchase the Raxle axles and I should be fine with those in the futur.

 

According to Marty @ Raxles even his parts won't stand up to a large drop like 3" for long periods of time so be careful.

 

I would think the longevity of the CV joints would be determined not just by the drop, but by the condition of the roads you drive on, your driving habits and the environmental conditions.

So you could have wide variaitions as to how long they would last based on the stated criteria.

 

[QUOTE=GBAUER]I have 189,000 miles on my 2k3. So far, I had the stock suspension on for the first 75k, then maxspeeds on from 75-135k and D2's since 135k. I'm still on my original CV's.

'nuff said.[/QUOTE

george thanks again for all the tech advice I am looking forward to springs and intake, after I recover from the 600.00 coils

 

not lowered and i had to replace both sides on my CVs and this was before the rims (lots of ppl think it's a result of the rims) i'm at about 115k and had ripped boots for about 2 yrs before they went

 

Big difference between those who had the CV's replace that I see so far: they're 4th gens. This could mean one of two things: Either the 4th gen CV joint isn't as good or the rubber has worn out over time due to rot and allowed water and/or dirt into them. I don't think it has to do with a car being lowered, per se, assuming we're talking about 5th gens (being in the 5th gen forum, that is). The one exception is the other guy with D2's. I'd put $100 on it not being the CV's in his case either only because I recently went through that noise as well. It's the struts, not the CV joint. call D2. you can get the number at www.d2racing.com . Been there, done that.

 

There's a simple explanation for that. They're older.......
CV axles fail in 2 ways, boots ripping letting all the grease out (age), and internal wear from the extreme angle that low drops subjects them too. CV joint wear is directly proportional to the angle between the diffy output bore and the hub. No axle in the world is exempt.

 

The angle one mine in very, very negligable on a 2" drop. In fact, when I first looked at it, I was concerned that it might be too straight. CV joints need a slight angle or they freeze up.

 

Says who? What's the grease for if not to prevent them from freezing up?




Even if that theory was true, everytime you turn or go over a bump the joints are at an angle.

 

Says every CV joint manufacturer. I'm not talking about just cars in that statement, but every CV joint used in industry. I used to sell heavy equipment that used CV joints 10 times as big as the ones in your car. The reason they need to have an angle is to keep them lubricated. If they stop bending, the grease gets forced out of the joint rather than worked into it. Once you try to bend it like it's supposed to be bent after the it runs for a long time at no angle, it'll freeze up and snap.


And, yes, you're right about the turning thing. In fact, that would also be an arguement against the drop arguement. Think about it: when you turn, the CV is at a greater angle than ANY drop can give.

 

Interesting...i stand corrected. However, the difference between a "slight" angle and the angle cause by a 3 inch drop is HUGE.
That would be true assuming the inner and outer CV's joints are the same, but they're not. From what i've read, the outer and inner CV joints are built for different types of movements and different operating angles and that's why the outers last longer. They're designed for those angles. But since they're subjected to these larger angles they outer boots typically rip first and end up failing because of it.

The outboard CV joint (the one that connects to the drive wheel) typically has a much wider operating angle than the inboard CV joint that connects to the transaxle. This is because the outer joint may have to turn up to 50 degrees off center when the front wheels are steered. The inboard joint, by comparison, rarely sees an operating angle of more than about 20 degrees. Consequently, different types of joint designs may be used for the inner and outer joints.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

 

^^^ nuff said^^^

 

Ive got 165K on my 2001, lowered on S-Techs and the only reason Ive had to change my CV axles was my 5 speed swap...passenger side is still original and Ive been on S-Techs for about 80K+ miles, no clicks or anyhting at all.

 

Bump. Looking for a few more votes?.

 

i've got eibach pro-kit and agx. when i bought the car it had springs that were even lower, (don't know what they were). it had a axle clunk so i changed out the axles, both made the noise(thats where i should have opened my eyes). Still made the noise then i realized that the angle of the cv joints were too steep and were binding up and thats what the noise was. so i put in a set of eibach pro-kit springs and the noise went away, until they settled. it still does it from this day but only when accelerating in a turn. but i love the ride of the pro kit so i don't care. if it gets anoying do what i did and put urethane spacers ( found at any advanced auto parts or autozone) for the coils and it'll lift it up just enough to stop the binding.

 

Am sitting on the JIC magic stage 2 coil over's with about a 3" drop anybody with the same set up.And if so do you have any problems with the cv boots and what about the pillow mounts in the rear ? i have heard horry stories about these....

 

Holy old thread bump.....

 

what do you mean old therd am just looking for info for fu** sake. Am new help me out tell, me were to look then.

 

YES

no matter what is said otherwise, the answer is YES. It increases/worsens if the rubber boots are ripping or falling off. Dropping the car subjects these pieces to greater risks of debris hitting them and damaging them.

Just don't drop the car too much. Keep it an inch drop or less and it will not be as bad on the CV joints but it will still create the possibility of premature failure.

1" drop is tasteful and does make a difference in the way the car looks and handles without resorting to "demon drop" that has the car slamming on the pavement. And go with Eibach Pro springs.

As well, the CV failure will depend on a few things: 1) extent of drop 2) how bad or good the roads are in your area 3) how you drive 4) CV boot integrity as already stated.

There isn't a blanketing truth to absolute results of failure, but the nature of the wear will vary according to those conditions listed. In any case, the drop will create risk, so be aware of that. You will also go through shocks much faster.

So set aside a budget to replace these parts much more frequently if you drive aggressively, have bad roads, and drop the car beyond 1" especially.

Happy Maxima driving

 

Get used to it buddy... think about how the Chinese gov works.. it's very similar here..


If you post a new thread, you'll get flamed for not searching... If you search and still have questions and bump the thread, you'll get flamed for doing so as well...

 

And there are others who will actually be helpful and consider your questions.

You just need to be patient and someone will eventually try to help. Get through all of the playground bullying here. It's only a car forum (or leave for another forum).

I've searched and searched for information, couldn't find it, and then got flamed anyway.

Flaming for the sake of it is pretty dumb. But like they say, "it's the way it is here"