Car threw a code: P0160. Bought a new sensor, jacked up the car, went underneath - I'm thinking it's either going to require removing parts of the car, or I need slim fingers or some amazing tool I've never seen..

I'm really angry - all the other sensors would have been very doable, but this one is located in an extremely cramped space.. The sensor is a bit seized so a regular wrench wasn't able to get any movement on it. I have a 22mm socket that should work, but I cannot fit it over the sensor - no room up there! Anyone replace this sensor at home? I might just take this to a mechanic, but I dont' want to unless I have no choice..

thoughts?

the sensor I need to replace is on the right.

 

HOLY RUST!!!!
spay it down with lots of liquid wrench and tap it with a hammer to break some of the rust.
let it sit for a couple hours
repeat

remove that heat shield to get more room...it will probably break apart but o well. you dont need it and its rusted anyway

 

I know.. I should really start getting an undercoating put on before winter...

I might try that. We'll see how I feel tomorrow. I'm going to call my mechanic and get a quote. If it's reasonable I'll let him deal with it, otherwise I get under there again..

 

This wan't clear from the first post, did you use the slotted socket for O2 sensors? Did it not fit? (I got to replace the red sensor myself). When I replaced two of the other easy to access sensors last year, I put penetrating oil for two, three weeks prior to replacing them (it just happened that something always came up and I didn't get around to replace them). The burnt oil smell wasn't all too pleasant, but in the end the sensors came off pretty easily.

 

I did not use a slotted socket. the pictures do not show it very well, but there is very little space to fit any tools (including sockets) up to where I need them.. I did attempt to buy an O2 socket but the store I went to didn't appear to have them, and the 'customer service' person I spoke to didn't appear to even know what they were.. coupled with the fact he had extremely bad gas, I didn't feel like sticking around and looking harder for what I needed..

I might attempt another store this afternoon and pick up the right equipment.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

 

If it's as tight room as you say, the slotted socket may not fit. It's about 3 inches long. I got mine at Sears, FYI.

 

It depends.. how does the slotted socket go on the sensor? If you have to put it over top of the sensor and bring it down, I'm not sure - this is what I attempted to do with a regular 22mm socket and there wasn't enough room on all sides to get the socket to slide straight down the sensor. If you can just 'slip' this special socket onto the sensor from the side, it might work.

I think I will attempt this later this afternoon, given I can find the proper tools (thanks for the Sears tip). I'll let you know!

 

Wow, that sensor looks as bad as when I changed the S1,B1 (P0135) this past weekend! I had trouble with my wrench clearance in getting the sensor loose (I started a thread on this). Anyway, it seems like in order to get to this sensor, you have to remove some parts, like the heat shield and maybe some other parts. And, one thing to note, for the home mechanic, it best to invest in a O2 socket when replacing O2 ensors. It's well worth it. MacGarnicle, if you can't access this sensor and don't want to replace it yourself, I would just take it to a certified mechanic and have them do it for you (or ask a Nissan mechanic how to go about this). It shouldn't be that much since you already have the part, and it shouldn't take more than an hour to replace (unless they run into trouble in the process). Good luck!

 

I replaced this the other day when the temp. was warm. The socket wont fit. I used a 22mm shorty open ended wrench. Came right out, although I had been spraying this several times with PB.

I ripped the heat shield off and used a hammer, then I coated the new sensor with the lube. Good luck

 

you tried fitting the 22m O2 socket in there and it wouldn't fit? I was afraid of that..

I tried using an open ended wrench and I started to strip the sensor... I think I'm going to go buy a close-ended 22mm, angled racheting wrench.. I have a suspicion this just might solve my space problem..

 

FYI, the wrench was a 6pt with a small opening. Where I had to thread the wire into the wrench and lower it onto the sensor. Then a couple of quick hits while making sure the wrench was on the sensor and it came out!!

I had a code showing for about 4 mo. It didnt seem to make a diff. in performance but my wife was happy.

 

Rent the O2 socket from Autozone etc. I would spray PB Blaster, let is soak well for a hr, remove sheild, then bring the car to operating temp (heat expands the contacts between sensor and the pipe), then try lossening it.

The good thing about the socket is it is cut open to pass only the O2 wires thro, so it is a 6 point socket and you cannot go wrong with a 6 pt socket.

I did all my sensors at 80K miles.!!!

 

Don't forget to put anti-sieze once done, use very little and only on the upper most thread. Anti-sieze has lead in it and it can ruin the sensors. Remember only use anti-seize on the upper most threads, that way there is no excessive anti-seize..

 

My main concern is gas mileage.. Has seemed very low for a while and I think this sensor might be the cause.

Well I found the tool I set out to get, I hope it works. It's soaking in anti-seize stuff right now.. I'll let you know if it works in an hour or so!

excellent idea - I will definitely do this.

 

It worked! I had a feeling it would this time. Sprayed on some liquid wrench, let it sit for around an hour and managed to twist it off with the new wrench I bought (lifesaver..!)

Took some pictures so anyone who has this code in the future has some idea what to do (not that it's overly difficult by any means)

This is the old sensor. A tad rusted up. Not too bad, mostly on the washer.




At the bottom of the picture is the hole where the sensor goes. There's a plastic clippy in the background. That had to come out obviously and the clip on the new sensor gets inserted there. There are about 5 of those clips I believe.


Here it is installed


Here is the angle from the other side of the exhaust. The wire comes through the opening here towards the driver's side front wheel.

 

This is looking up from the same position as the last picture. There is another hole for a clip as you can see, and one more a bit further up.


On top, looking down. For this code (see above) we changed the red wired sensor. They're all colour coded so it's very easy. There's another clip just as the wire bends down.


This tool was perfect for the job.


I'm sure this helped as well


Part # for this sensor (S2B2) was 226A1-4L715 on the 3.0L max.

Thanks everyone for their input! Very glad I didn't take it to the machanic. Got to spend the money I would have given him on some new tools

 

Only if the ECM detects a bad front sensor, it will use the rear sensor for mixture adjustment. Otherwise the rear is used to monitor cat performance.

 

S2B2 is considered a rear sensor then? So the car has redundant sensors, just in case, I gather?

 

locations of 02 sensors for all 5th gens
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf

 

S2B2 is a cylinder bank 2 rear sensor. The rear sensors (after the cat) are there to monitor catalytic converter function, but if there's a problem with a front sensor (before the cat) the ECM will use a rear sensor for mixture control.

 

gotcha..
thanks guys