How many of you went back to stock airbox after WAI?
#1
How many of you went back to stock airbox after WAI?
With my new exhaust drowning out any engine noise, I am thinking of swapping back the stock airbox to regain all the lost torque. Did anyone do this and regret it? I really enjoyed the torque in the low rpms before, passing cars was a tap of throttle, going up hills no problem...etc.
#2
Increase partial throttle response with this a larger MAF housing and an AFC of some sort.
I hate the wail after a day or 2 using any type of conical filter element.
I now use a stock airbox w/ FC midpipe.
I hate the wail after a day or 2 using any type of conical filter element.
I now use a stock airbox w/ FC midpipe.
#4
Not loud at all. A little more 'fizz', but that's about it.
That MAF housing is holding back the 3.5L. Throttle response was remarkably better.
Throttle lag is gone. Partial throttle response (tsudo torque) is enhanced greatly.
That MAF housing is holding back the 3.5L. Throttle response was remarkably better.
Throttle lag is gone. Partial throttle response (tsudo torque) is enhanced greatly.
#7
Does anyone know how a WAI effects gas mileage? I have a GAB atm, and while I am a bit concerned about loss of low end torque, I have this sneaking suspicion I'm getting better mileage.
#8
I've had the Berk WAI on my car for nearly 3 years. I still get over 300 miles per tank...every tank. No loss here.
But in regards to the actual topic, I've removed mine a couple of times for warranty work and didn't really notice too much of a difference.
Originally Posted by Rydicule
Does anyone know how a WAI effects gas mileage? I have a GAB atm, and while I am a bit concerned about loss of low end torque, I have this sneaking suspicion I'm getting better mileage.
#9
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
No pics/other info no care.
i had some 3 inch exhaust piping laying around. i cut it to fit, had 2 silicon couplers, made a catch can, put on a filter with an adapter. sounds great and rips better then with the stock box. $20 intake > all other
#11
I have a warm air filter http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2547814/4
I made it from parts at autozone./ cost me abot $55 to make and it looks clean and more expensdive than it was. It sounds bada$$ and i can def tell it pulls a lot better than stock. I also get over 300 miles to a tank. I had the stock airbox and went to the gab. Off that it sounded good and could feel a difference. Took the gab off and put the WAI on and after the computer relearned the new intake it is a more responsive torqueir (?) engine. I would like t oget some more tubing to make a true CAI and see the diff.
I made it from parts at autozone./ cost me abot $55 to make and it looks clean and more expensdive than it was. It sounds bada$$ and i can def tell it pulls a lot better than stock. I also get over 300 miles to a tank. I had the stock airbox and went to the gab. Off that it sounded good and could feel a difference. Took the gab off and put the WAI on and after the computer relearned the new intake it is a more responsive torqueir (?) engine. I would like t oget some more tubing to make a true CAI and see the diff.
#12
Butt dyno FTL.
Originally Posted by One Of My Fav Quotes
On the road testing is notoriously inaccurate. You don't feel power so much as you feel change in torque versus time. if the car feels stronger up top, that likely means you are noting a surge or increase in power at a certain point. This is just as easily attributed to making LESS power down low as it would be to making more up top. This is the same sort of "feeling faster" that all of the OBD-II track pipe people experienced. Same peak power, less midrange, and thus the car would have a much larger slope in the power band between the midrange and the high RPM range of operation. This is why the butt dyno should never be used. If you are going to try to make more power by messing with sensors, then do so with proper test procedures in place. A wideband to verify the AFR, as well as a timing light to check for any changes to ignition timing from changed load readings, is really required. The before/after tests should also be done on a dyno with the variables as controlled as possible to verify the change in power.
#13
the butt dyno may not be a true test buty a stop watch is. If you "feel" like the car is quicker than all you would need to do is have already time distance. Once you put on the new acessory you would time that same distance again. If it was in a shorter timespan hp and torque have gone up. HP is not a true measure of power, torque is. Some one stating i make 400 hp and 290 lb ft of torque vs 350 hp and 350 lb ft of torque, you can bet the latter will stomp the 400 hp. Torque is what puts you in your seat. A deisel truck has gobs of torque that can pull stumps.
Ok so after my rambling. Abutt dyno isd not a true test i agree but it can tell you if you are going in ther right direction. I have a 68 camaro that is more tuneable than these cars and the butt dyno is used alot as dyno time is very expensive. So i agree with Nmex dont use the bd as end all be all but it is a usefull tool along with a stop watch .
Ok so after my rambling. Abutt dyno isd not a true test i agree but it can tell you if you are going in ther right direction. I have a 68 camaro that is more tuneable than these cars and the butt dyno is used alot as dyno time is very expensive. So i agree with Nmex dont use the bd as end all be all but it is a usefull tool along with a stop watch .
#14
#16
[QUOTE=SEmy2K2go]I've had the Berk WAI on my car for nearly 3 years. I still get over 300 miles per tank...every tank. No loss here.
holy crap are you serious?? i only get a little over 200 miles to the tank.. the gas light usually comes on at about 210-220... i have a 2001 auto with a stillen intake, and i like to drive in the high rpms... should it be that low though? new spark plugs, PCV valve, just cleaned air filter, fresh synthetic oil change, and the gas light was almost on at 219 miles.. put a new MAF on with the stillen intake about 4 months ago.. i reset my tire pressure today, but it was only 2 psi below at the most.. now its at 33 in the front and 30 in the back, so i'll see how this tank goes.. is something wrong with the car?
holy crap are you serious?? i only get a little over 200 miles to the tank.. the gas light usually comes on at about 210-220... i have a 2001 auto with a stillen intake, and i like to drive in the high rpms... should it be that low though? new spark plugs, PCV valve, just cleaned air filter, fresh synthetic oil change, and the gas light was almost on at 219 miles.. put a new MAF on with the stillen intake about 4 months ago.. i reset my tire pressure today, but it was only 2 psi below at the most.. now its at 33 in the front and 30 in the back, so i'll see how this tank goes.. is something wrong with the car?
#18
Originally Posted by wyche89
holy crap are you serious?? i only get a little over 200 miles to the tank.. the gas light usually comes on at about 210-220... i have a 2001 auto with a stillen intake, and i like to drive in the high rpms... should it be that low though?
You should see 160 miles per half tank (8 gals) consistently. I do unless I'm on the highway and then its 240 miles per half tank.
#19
Originally Posted by MaximumPower01
Whats your opinion of the intake shown here, Nmex?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/410486
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/410486
Anyhow, I actually lost a lot of low-end torque. If your gonna do a set-up like that, you need to block off the OEM snorkel and just let the lower tubing force air into the airbox.
IMHO, I found it was not worth it and ripped the whole thing out. I am now running a custom WAI and thoroughly enjoy it much more.
I also get over 300 per tank. Usually closer to 350 each fill-up.
#21
Originally Posted by nismopc
IMHO, I found it was not worth it and ripped the whole thing out. I am now running a custom WAI and thoroughly enjoy it much more.
Originally Posted by oldskooljdm
Nmex, where do you get the larger mass airflow housing?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....AF#post3852500
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....AF#post3847561
#24
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I don't see it. Or at least not very clearly.
#26
Originally Posted by nismopc
I used an old MAF casing. Cut off the flanged end. Fabricated a custom plate out of a black PVC pipe cap. Cut a rubber gasket out of DIY gasket material. Drilled a hole in the plate. Added a rubber grommet and a 90 degree breather elbow. Attached heater hose to the elbow then fed the hose to the valve cover.
Nice custom set up man!
You in Mansield too, thats cool.....pretty close to me
#27
Originally Posted by MaximumPower01
#28
Originally Posted by nismopc
I did something very similiar to that, but not so "jimmy-rigged" WTF? Down spouts FTL!
Anyhow, I actually lost a lot of low-end torque. If your gonna do a set-up like that, you need to block off the OEM snorkel and just let the lower tubing force air into the airbox.
IMHO, I found it was not worth it and ripped the whole thing out. I am now running a custom WAI and thoroughly enjoy it much more.
I also get over 300 per tank. Usually closer to 350 each fill-up.
Anyhow, I actually lost a lot of low-end torque. If your gonna do a set-up like that, you need to block off the OEM snorkel and just let the lower tubing force air into the airbox.
IMHO, I found it was not worth it and ripped the whole thing out. I am now running a custom WAI and thoroughly enjoy it much more.
I also get over 300 per tank. Usually closer to 350 each fill-up.
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