For the past couple of weeks ive been having problems starting my car i dont know what it is its pissing me off though. ok when i go to start the car the computer check up goes on like it should and then all i hear is clicking and eventually it will start up iam starting to think it is a ignition problem or battery iam gonna take into service sometime this week. i tryed starting it today and it did the same thing. help please

 

Check your battery.. Most likely cause...

 

is this a common problem on maxima's what do you mean by checking the battery by what checking the voltage.

 

Not a common thing on anything.. Sometimes batteries just go bad.. Also check your connections at the battery.. First 2 things to check and its the easiest..

 

ok if i know correctly sometime you have to put water in batteries is this true i meaning car batteries like this one.

 

Relax... If your battery is original, it probably needs to be replaced. Go to Autozone and get it tested before anything else.

 

i know i know but its really pissing me off how often do batteries last whats there life span. i know there not energizer's is are Interstate Batteries good.

 

There are many variables regarding battery life,. If you want to learn more about car batteries, I suggest you Google the subject, but you can't expect most original batteries to last much beyond 3 or 4 years, especially if it requires maintenance that was not done.

 

+1 get it checked at autozone

 

Cannot add water to these batteries...they are sealed. Get it checked at autozone and replace as necessary. Also could be loose or corroded battery terminal connections.

 

if u get the constant clicking noise then it will be yr battery that cost the starter to click.. i had the same problem... replaced battery the first day, starter goes on the second day, and replaced on the thrid day.... after that McDonnal burgur everyday for the next two weeks -.-...

 

If it's an intermittent won't crank issue it's not the battery. Check that both battery connections are free of corrosion and tight. This sounds more like a starter solenoid switch or starter issue, or a bad connection, but there is an interlock switch and relay involved in the start circuit as well. Make sure the clutch pedal is fully depressed, or try moving the tranny selector from P to N when you have the no start happening. AND......check your battery to see if it has any caps/covers. If the battery has any kind of caps/covers then it is not maintenance free. Does it have any caps/covers?

 

yea my battery has a postive red cap and no cap on the negative side iam going to take to the dealer for them to take care of it i dont want to mess something up and get blamed for it by the dealer that way if anything happens it would be there fault plus its still covered under warranty

 

Yes, if it's covered by the warranty it's off to the dealer you should go. The covers that I was referring to were the battery cell caps/covers. There are six cells and there can be six individual caps or two large covers with 3 cell caps each. If you have NO cell caps or covers then the battery is maintenance free. The red connector clamp "cover" on the positive terminal and the negative terminal clamp with no cover is factory stock.

 

I Work In A Service Dept, It Could Be You Ignition Is Worn Or A Starter Problem, If It Was A Battery The Battery Light Would Come On Or Your Clock Will Reset And Then Again I Would Check Your Charging System Just To Make Sure You Not Getting Any Parasidic Draws. Start There Then Let Me Know

 

iam not gonna mess with anything iam just gonna take it to the dealer and have them take care of it and then ill ask them what the problem is but thanks for the help and also my battery light didnt come on about the battery so i guess it aint the battery. i dont know like i said iam just gonna take it to the dealer to take care of.

 

well i took the car to the dealer about an hour ago and they said they will call me tommorow morning to tell me whats wrong and to pick it up.

 

just got the car back turns out to be the key it wasnt reading properly in the ignition. so they reprogramed it.

 

Thats the key either is or isn't read by the car. It was something else that they just fixed and told you it was the key.

 

With his symptoms, I don't buy the key (NATS) story either.

 

well they said they had reprogram the keys it wasnt reading properly i still dont believe them i think it something else.

 

i have about 70K miles on my 03 max and i still havent changed my battery.... this morning i when I started the car, it was slower at starting compared to the other days. i think its time for a new battery.

 

my car they had to reprogram the keys.

 

Better be for free.

 

hmm... i just replaced my oem nissan battery with a Diehard Gold North battery. (cost 94 bucks) I thought everything will be fine too, but this morning when I started the car it kind of struggled to start up. It would start up and hit 1500RPM, then a loud rev, then the car starts up normal again... its weird.....

ill probably take the car back to the nissan dealership since they are having a free courtesy 100 point inspection for all of MA. Hope you guys have that check for free around your way...

 

no i had to pay a 100 for it someone told me it had something to do with the transponder chip. it wasnt reading correctly in the ignition so they had to reprogram the keys.

 

Excuse me for hijacking this thread but my 2000 SE with 78K miles is starting to have a starting issue also. The syptoms act like a weak battery. It starts slow at times and sometimes it only clicks and won't start without a jump. Other times it starts fine. Here are the facts:

-Battery new last year and I have fully charged it. Autozone verified that the battery was good.

-Cleaned battery connectors

-Autozone (and my voltmeter) confirmed that alternator is charging properly. I have 13.9v measured accross the batter posts with the car running. No warning lights on dash.

-Cleaned the connections from the battery cable to the starter solenoid as well as ground from the solenoid

-I think all the relays (Park and neutural switch, etc.) are good since the starter does turn over or at least clicks. This tells me that the key, ignition and other relays are all functioning (I think).

-Autozone said that the starter was pulling 140Amps from the battery (spec is less than 70A according to factory manual). Does this mean the starter is going bad? What would cause it to pull more amps than it is supossed to?

Is it time for a new Starter?

Thanks in advance for your inputs.

 

Interesting situation.

My symptoms were similar. I replaced my original 4 year old Nissan battery with a Walmart battery and the problem resolved itself.

 

My car starts fine but the subsequent starts, well now that’s a different story. When I turn the key, the car starts, I feel vibration then it wants to stall and then it comes back. Occasionally it halts. In that case I’ll have to turn the key again then my car starts but I know a trick now, before it halts again, I’ll have to immediately hit the gas gently then everything is OK.
I had SES light ON and had it checked at AAMCO. Code p138 came up (Sensor 2 bank 1).
My friend Dave replaced the bad sensor and I saw the bad sensor, it was greasy and oily. However my car still has the same problem.

What should I do?

 

take it to your dealer they may have to reprogram your transponder chip. also check your mass air flow sensor. (MAF)

 

How do I check my mass air flow sensor (MAF)?

Also, how can I clean the MAF?

Will you please be kind enough to educate me on this?

Pictures will be really helpful.

Thanks.

 

sorry i dont have pics but i could tell you where its located. you know your air box where you would put a intake well there is a pulg there and pull that out and you have to replace that iam not sure how to disconnect it my suggestion is to take it to the dealer and have them take care of it. or if you have a friend that works on cars have him do it for you?

 

I found out that there is spray can. There is even a threat on .org about it.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=463384


Is it dangerous to drive with a dirty MAF?

 

Also check you knock sensor. the MAF and the KNOCK Sensor could be the only sensors i could think of that may need to be replaced if its not the (MAF) then check the knock sensor because you said theres vibration right?

 

yes it is it will cause the sensor to read unproperly and you check engine light will go on if it get to dirty and you will have trouble starting your vehicle.

 

Yes. Thanks. You seem to know alot. You are 16 years old right?

 

yup iam 16 i would still go to the dealer to be on the safe side message me when you get it fixed.