Thanks to Dave B, got my MAF installed my 2000 SE. OH MY GOD, its like I have a new car. My car jumps ahead, again. Not so much jumps ahead, but punches forward. I've only had the car a year, and when I got it I was wowed @ the acceleration. Now its like I'm driving it off the lot in 2000.

ALSO: During maintenance on the car a leak in the exhaust was found. That would explain the sudden rattling noise during driving. The stealership recommends to replace muffler and center pipe for $ 900 or so. You read that right!! (or perhaps they were talking about replacing the whole exhaust from manifold on down; sans O2 sensors??). Driving in 8 New England winters has taken a toll and they said that the exhaust system has pretty much rotted out (which I do believe to a degree).

Anyway...there is a leak in my exhaust. Is something like this fixable by welding the leak? How much would a local shop charge?

 

A local shop would be one option, or you could browse around the 5th gen classifieds for OEM setups. I for one have an '02 B-pipe just taking up space in my garage. I'm sure there are others as well.

 

Shameless plug here, I am selling my 02 OEM exhaust for super cheap:

http://forum.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=516091

 

welding oem rusted out exhaust usually isn't worth it. cutting a section and clamping is easier but it's crap. bandaiding a serious condition that will just keep sucking your money. I bandaided a civic once when I was young and 2 days later since I finally fixed my leak the rest of the exhaust wasn't up to the backpressure that should have been there and I blew three more holes in my exhaust. So not only did I waste 85 bucks to fix my exhaust I had to buy a new one. Just fix it right the first time.

 

But would it really cost $900 or so the stealership wants?

 

Just replace with "new" OEM. Shop around, my local mechanic is far cheaper than dealership. And he uses OEM. But if the price is right, buy from fellow org.

I was thinking aftermarket, but heard after a few years rusts out. Used was an option but I didnt want to risk having flangs rust out (common problem) If possible go OEM. I did and works great.

GL,
Anthony

 

Just make sure you get a stainless exhaust or have it coated with some VHT or else the road salt will eat it up. I made the mistake of going wih non stainless pipes on my 96 and they lasted through one winter.

 

Took it to two places, and both said its too rusted to weld. Price for new muffler OEM would be about $300 parts/labor. The other place wants about $400. And the second place I went to they used muffler cement. And it worked. But by the time I got home the crap had come off, so back to square one. Thought I could catch a break and have it last for a month or two. I know I'm just pushing off the inevitable.

The hole/crack is on the muffler, see below. This is where the muffler meets the center pipe. The crack is about 1/8" x 1/2"



I was actually expecting a lot more rust, after 7 new england winters with the snow/rock salt.......

 

People sell OEM mufflers all the time...check the 5th gen f/s forum.

 

cattman cat-back should outlast the car I would think.

 

I just found out that I have the same problem that you have. The crack is in the same place and my accleration has been very poor. I didn't check to see what the dealer prices are but aftermarket run about 100 to 145. Non of them said what material it was made of so maybe looking for nissan oem would be more reliable. So any one in south central PA selling there stock muffler?