Maxima112

iTrader: (16)

Hey wassup, once in a while, about once a week or something Ill start my car and it'll crank over fine, but after 1 or 2 seconds the engine dies. I noticed that the RPM slowly goes down right above the 500 mark and then it just shuts off....any clue on what may cause this problem? i dont think its MAF ( i have rev above 2K in park) fuel injector cleaner? sparks? anyone else have a problem like this? thanks!

Ride2kMax

iTrader: (10)

I have the same problem and i dont know what it is.

Domf3

Same problem. I think its the IAC. It's showing a P505 code.

CannaBis

My 02 has a really low idle when im sitting at a red light, but engine sounds fine. Wondering if this is normal or getting to your situation...

Psyfa

iTrader: (3)

yeaaah I have the same problem. After researching on here it seems that this problem is most commonly caused by the IAC which will either need to be cleaned or replaced.

I'm no expert but since yours slowly dies I'm thinking you might just need to clean or replace it.

I'm not as fortunate however because mine cuts off really fast...and after replacing my iac the problem remains. Now it seems I'll have to replace the ECU...great...

STILLENGLE

Check your MAF that may be bad. one of your o2 sensors could be bad to.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

Just recently my car would die immediately after startup. Either that, or the RPMs will drop so low that it seems like the engine had died, followed by a quick rise in RPMs back to a normal idle. I'd been suspecting the IAC valve for quite some time now but am confused about the situation since IAC valves usually have trouble bringing up the RPMs to normal idle range when the car is cold. My problem usually occurs when I start up the engine shortly after I had shut it off (like after I'd made a very short trip).

seventy5impala

iTrader: (6)

well perhaps diffrent for everyones situation, but my brothers car has had a stalling issue for awhile sometimes at start up and would just die right away, sometimes after idling for a few usually at red lights and such... initially i thought it was the IAC...so i replaced it....didnt fix anything...this past week i replaced the MAF(was only 82 bucks at nissan) problem gone...no more stalling and it even fixed a transmission concern of banging into gear... car seems to be alive again..... unsure if this is the same root of the problem you are having, but i had no codes and stalling...

GBAUER

iTrader: (2)

Mine was doing EXACTLY the same thing. Started and died, but it would rev up to the redline in park. Every once in a while it wouldn't rev when cold. It was the MAF.

If you have codes, get them pulled. Mine was a P0550 and P0171. Don't remember which, but one said that the engine was running lean. Also, my gas milage went down drastically, RPMs were higher when crusing, had less power and occaisionally had the dreaded rattle. Replacing the MAF fixed it all.

JDMGLE

I have the same problem. I work at a Nissan dealership so i asked a couple of the techs and they said that most likely it is the MAF. So i'll be replacing it then i'll update on if the problem was fixed like it seems to have worked for others.

STILLENGLE

so do what i said and change your MAF sensor.

Ride2kMax

iTrader: (10)

yeah it problably is the MAF now i remember that i re-oil my air filter problably got mess up by it.

edgenuts

I had similar issues. I first cleaned my MAF which made my car perform much better but problems persisted. So I did the 2k1 MAF upgrade... performance was even better but still stalling and having weird power loss issues where RPMs would dip to 0 on the highway, the car would jerk and then RPMs would resume. I finally bit the bullet and took it to the Nissan Stealership and they said it was my Revolution sensors. That was Friday, I haven't really driven my car much yet but it seems a bit better. It cost an arm and a leg though because they (of course) insisted on a new MAF, ECU reflash for 145 and a tune-up (at 81K, I never had one nor can I garuntee one was done by previous owner).

In any event, good luck.

MaxAK

I had the exact same issue with my '03 GLE after I changed the battery last week. On a cold start, it would be fine b/c of the high cold idle. However, once the engine was warm, and went to start the car, it would crank, turn over, RPM would be at 750-800 for a brief second, then it would stall.. Crank again, turn over, same thing... Third and subsequent times, it would drop down to 0, but the inertia of the crank would keep it turned over, and it would catch... Long story short, dealer reset the idle.. Things have been smooth sailing since... No new MAF needed, no new ICV needed... Although, I was worried it might have been those.. I know technosquare has a procedure online to reset the throttle learning position, I suspect that's what they did... Anyway, they took care of it on the house, and I would suggest trying that procedure.. Free fixes work!

Now if I could only figure what this damn rattling sound is from the front right that I see a few other folks having, I'd be set...

95K, running strong, still rollin!..

Maxima112

iTrader: (16)

any idea where i could find the technosquare online procedure?? thanks for all the replies guys, wow i thought i was the only one with this problem.

Nomad

iTrader: (5)

read this:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=504874
Ouh you got lucky too.

In short: You're up for new IACV valve+ECM+key reprogramming.



Here it has nothing to deal with TPS our gen won't go bad unless someone messes w/it, your gen has drive by wire.Those who has P0505 don't waste you time I'm 100%+ problem is in items listed above. If you go to stealership to adjust idle speed dealer won't be able to perform needed procedures.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

Have you fixed it? I'm starting to think it's my MAF...

Maxima112

iTrader: (16)

i have not, i clean my TB this past weekend. and it feels better, but i have to see if it will stall again later.... at least i know how to get to the ICV later if i need to change it. not too bad.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

You wouldn't try changing the MAF first? It's a cheaper part.

dave2503

What is an MAF?

sil07

Mass air flow sensor

maximillien

I changed my IACV and MAF sensor but still has cold starts problems, I have to feed it gas above 2k rpm for 4 secs and its fine, what could it be??? dealer says he has to reprogram my MAF?

NisTech

if it\s an 02-03 witch it looks like from your picture you need to have an idle air volume relearn procedure performed. you have no iacv. search here on how to do it yourself or pay an hours or so labour to get it done at a dealer.

alxdagreat1

I went thru the same thing, but my problem started after I installed a bigger intake from Stillen (no hard feelings). Drove my car like that for a few weeks and sometimes while driving my max would turn off. Anyways cleaned my MAF and throttle body problem stayed.... took intake off and problem went away also. Don't know why I made sure I had no air leaks.

cubster

2 vexing problems with my 96 SE:

1. When started after it sits awhile (and presumably cools off) the idle surges, hunts a little, then settles down

2. Immediately following starting (including after it sits a while), the car stalls. Once restarted, it runs OK.

I have replaced both the MAF (mass airflow sensor) and IAC (idle air control).

This is driving me crazy. Any thoughts?

scmax2000

iTrader: (16)

If it's the Mass Air Flow Sensor, try to clean it first with MAF Cleaner it will cost you about $7.50 to buy from any auto parts store, and by the way it is recommended to clean the MAF every time you replace the Air Filter.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Ok, so I have been having a similar problem. When I'm at a red light my car low idles around 200-400 which seems really low. It never stalled or died before until today when I pulled into my parking spot. There are no codes and I'm stuck. Any suggestions? I just cleaned my MAF two days ago and was still low idling. Maybe an 02 sensor? or bad MAF? I have had these codes come up before, and then it went away for awhile and then came back on, then nothing for a few months, p0139 and P1147. Any help would be awesome.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Intake Manifold gasket, common issue. Usually resolves the issue with the car dying right after its started (usually hard cold start). Doesn't occur as often on warm starts because the gasket has already warmed up and expanded. The original gaskets were made of a paper type material, updated ones are rubber. Dave B has em instock.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Thank you, it doesn't happen when I just start the car though, especially when it's cold. it happens when the car is warmed up and I've been driving for at least 20-30 mins at the most.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Interesting. Only thing I can offer is that sometimes it happens to me after I fill up gas, car is usually warm by then. I haven't replaced the part yet but will report back when I do.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

That would be great. I will try the 02 sensor, since I have one, and maybe even a new MAF. It is very confusing. Just took the car out and it low idled a little bit, but not like before, and it didn't stall/die. Weird!

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Mine will occasionally die after a hot restart but only if the car has been off 5-10 minutes, less or more time and no problems. My idle is around 600 instead of 700 like it is supposed to be. No codes and if it does die, it starts right up again with no problems. Might do the idle relearn and see if that helps.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Didn't even think of that, thank Scott. But, I have no idea how to do an idle relearn. Any link or guidance?

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

http://forums.maxima.org/4493970-post10.html

PRE-CONDITIONING
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of
the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are
missed for even a moment.
+ Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
+ Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 99°C (158 - 210°F)
+ PNP switch: ON
+ Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)

Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PRE-CONDITIONING
(previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown),
then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
8. Wait 20 seconds.
9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the
result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the NOTE below.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within specifications.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

You are the man Scott, thanks again. Will see if that helps.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Is the TPS harness connector by the breather hose?

maxipower

where can you visualize these codes...do they appear on the dash,,,i m baffled,,,

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

This is the link to look up what the codes mean and some other things...

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...bs-inside.html

And you need a tool which will pull the codes from your car if your SES light is on. I use an OBD II from Actron.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Hey Scott, is the TPS harness connector by the breather hose? Can't seem to find the location in any searches.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Ok, I got it, hope this helps my problem. Will update...