I currently have the factory OEM battery, my friend/mechanic suggested that I get a new battery soon (battery is a little over 5 years old). I was wondering which replacement I should go with. I have the OEM Bose system, and for electronics I usually have my after-market GPS and cell phone charging. I also have a Viper 791x (alarm/auto start), and Nissan Ground Kit (don’t really know if they would make a difference in choosing a battery).

Does anyone have exp. with the Costco house-brand battery?

If you have had a good exp. with other batteries please list the Brand/Cost/Warranty.

 

I have put in the Optima Red after DieHard gold? started to leak after having it for about year and a half. I've had the red top for about 2years and I haven't had a big problems with it at all. I've drained it couple of time by leaving my stupid headlights on while at work. I just recharge and it works like a charm even after draining it twice. No problems when it's cold either. It is a bit more expensive than others but IMHO think it's worth the extra cash.

 

At my work we deal with interstate batterys and I have a megatron plus in my maxima. It works great and I believe they have a 7 yr warrenty.

 

diehard gold
you only need the optima if you have a system (or to make your engine bay look pretty)

 

You would need the Optima Yellow Top if you have a big system.

 

4.5 yrs on my red top with no signs of weakness.

 

Diehard Gold or Duralast Gold gets my vote!

 

Ditto DieHard Gold...Just replaced last week... Group Size 24F, 700CCA (OEM is 585 I believe)

 

3.5 years with the Optima Red Top.

 

My vote is on DieHard Platinum battery

 

Last I checked, it didn't come in the right size. Plus it's ubber expensive. I say any of the Johnson Controls batteries will do just fine.

 

Why more votes for the red over the yellow?

 

both are pointless and an overkill.

but to explain the votes to you - yellow is needed for people with a system...if you dont have a system, red will do.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi...utomotive.html

 

Sweet dude, sweet.

 

red top=start up
yellow top=deep cycle

Both weigh a ton though. I've run both and currently have a yellowtop...but I have a bunch of audio goodies + extras.

 

I'm using the Interstate battery that came with my car. It works fine for my 350W RMS MTX amp and B(l)ose speakers (no B(l)ose sub). My replacement batt will be the cheapest midgrade batt I can find that matches OEM specs.

 

I put in the Costco battery about a year and a half ago. From what I recall, it's made by a major manufacturer (Interstate maybe?) and the CCA exceeds the OEM battery. I think it was only $44 or something like that. So far no issues at all.

 

If I didn't care about looks I would have just gone w/ Costco... Maxboost was a HIN car and he rocked a Kirkland battery

I voted for Red Top only because I have one...get whatever's the cheapest...

 

Costco/Kirkland, Optima, Diehard, Energizer, Duralast, etc. are all Johnson Control batteries.

 

I have a red top under the hood and a yellow top in the trunk

 

ive got a yellow top under my hood, i like to have my car off while still being able to play my music loud....thats why i have the yellow top..Also before i had a crappy DIRHARD....that was all corroded at the terminals. My car used to take 3, 4, and 5 cranks before starting..Now it takes ONE CRANK BEFORE THE ENGINE STARTS AND ITS STRONG

 

thats because they were corroded. which has nothing to do with the bat. you should have lubed the terminals after you installed...

i'll be doing one redtop in the engine bay, and either a yellow or a diehard in the trunk. i'm hoping those will be enough to stop my dash from giving me the strobe effect...

 

do teh big 3 before going w/ a 2nd battery...

 

Why don't you try a bigger capacitor for your system? You can hook them up in series as well. Is that what you are talking about?

 

i am planning on doing the big 3. i have 200ft spool of 0gauge in my room. it's the damn inline fuses that **** me off $50 bucks sucks. i have all the contacts i need.

i was thinking of doing the big 3, buy a redtop redtop, and throw the diehard(which is in my engine bay) in the trunk in the same weekend. if that doesn't stop it which i think it will i'll throw a yellow after the diehard. 3batts is overkill tho and if that 2 and big 3 do'nt stop my problems something is wrong...

caps don't do anything. they are bandaids at best. big 3 ftw.

 

My 93 had 2 Kicker compVR 12's w/1200watt sony explode amp (best setup I could afford at the time) and my cap fixed it, but I see you have a much bigger system than I did....
You're right though, if 3 batts dont fix it, just pack it in, call it a day and deal with it I guess. I see no reason why 2 batteries wouldn't work, unless you dont get the front batt.-rear batt. relay right lol. That would be hard to do

 

I really don't understand why some of you guys are planning on running so many batteries. Are you guys gonna dbdrag anytime soon? I'm pretty sure I'm drawing just as much current as the next guy w/ my system, and I seriously have no issues with dimming or anything like that...and I haven't even done the big 3. Either something is wrong w/ your electrical systems or your amps are current hogs.

And for reference I have an eclipse EA4000 4ch amp (~80wx4@4ohm) and a us amps MD2d (~1500W@1ohm)

 

NO!, it was my BATTERY! i already know this... IT WAS MY OLD DIEHARD, NOT THE CORROSION

now "THE CORROSION PLAYED A PART" but it was NOT the prime suspect...and of COURSE I USED LUBE after the install...i only used a little though

 

guys im new to this site it wont let me write threads for some reason can someone help me out?

 

You must have 15 posts...good luck.

 

your starter was not able to draw enough current from the battery to start the engine.

the number of cranks simply means it couldn't get enough current...your battery didn't magically start to discharge more with the more cranks you made...if anything it produced less...sorry to burst your bubble. it was the corrosion.

i always lube em up REAL good and once a year i redo it. never had corrosion once.

 

I have the Red Top and bought it at Costco 2 years ago. I like it.

 

red top gets my vote thats for sure. if u want easy cold start ups cant go wrong with these bad boys and make sure to atleast recharge them once a year to maintain its performance

 

Die Hard Gold does the trick for me.

 

Red top all the way.....

 

LOOK MAN.....dammit! LOL, it was the battery...but nah, i understand what your saying, but i replaced the positive and negative terminals when the corrosion started, and i didnt change the battery...that did help out a bit, but it still didnt change the fact that my battery was toast. Besides i like to play my stereo without my car being on, and i dont want two car batteries in my car

 

at full tilt i'm running 2000w RMS of a possible 2400. i dim alot. sucks...any suggestions are welcome. i have hifonics diamond and kicker for amps which are all decent brands. as i stated above i'll do the big 3 and throw a redtop in my bay and move my current batt to the trunk. if that doesn't fix it yellowtop in the trunk + my current batt.

 

The original battery on my 2k Max lasted for 7 yrs.
Last winter had some issues starting the car at -25C so I went and changed at the stealership. I'll see how good the new one is...

 

Costco/Kirkland...I just bought one ($44.95) and it has a 3 year replacement warranty. They don't do core exchanges so you have to dispose of your old one somewhere else. I believe it's 640 or 680CCA.

 

Interstate battery would be the best choice if you dont have a system. They last forever, start everytime.