A few more RSB Questions
#1
I just installed my Cattman/Addco RSB. Install took a little longer than I planned, I had trouble lining up the side the brackets.
My questions are as follows: a) can you screw this up? and thus screw up the car?
b)What is the impact of the RSB on bumpy roads. All of sudden it my Max feals much harsher and the bumps generate a clank.
Thanks
Mark F
My questions are as follows: a) can you screw this up? and thus screw up the car?
b)What is the impact of the RSB on bumpy roads. All of sudden it my Max feals much harsher and the bumps generate a clank.
Thanks
Mark F
#2
The only way you could screw up would be to not tighten everything down correctly or in the right place. Worst case, the bar falls off....
The ride is affected slightly, but not a whole lot. It may become a little stiffer. As for the clank, you may need to adjust the position of the mounts and make sure everything is tight. I have a Stillen RSB, but I have heard this from the guys with the Addco RSB.
The ride is affected slightly, but not a whole lot. It may become a little stiffer. As for the clank, you may need to adjust the position of the mounts and make sure everything is tight. I have a Stillen RSB, but I have heard this from the guys with the Addco RSB.
#4
Originally posted by MarkF
So which bracket need to be adjusted the rear or the sides?
The sides were a real pain to mount.
So which bracket need to be adjusted the rear or the sides?
The sides were a real pain to mount.
I am not all that familiar with the Addco RSB ...But I think the rear mounts need to be adjusted. I could be wrong though.... perhaps someone with the Addco RSB has some more info....
#6
Originally posted by wdave
The rear bracket on the passenger side is the one that can hit on the chassis mount of the transverse link. Just move it a little toward the center.
wdave
The rear bracket on the passenger side is the one that can hit on the chassis mount of the transverse link. Just move it a little toward the center.
wdave
Also on the side brackets, I don't have much if the threads coming through the nut, is that typical or do I really have to crank down on this and bend the brackets to get the threads to come through?
Thanks
#7
Originally posted by MarkF
I hear that, I'll check when I get home.
Also on the side brackets, I don't have much if the threads coming through the nut, is that typical or do I really have to crank down on this and bend the brackets to get the threads to come through?
Thanks
I hear that, I'll check when I get home.
Also on the side brackets, I don't have much if the threads coming through the nut, is that typical or do I really have to crank down on this and bend the brackets to get the threads to come through?
Thanks
#8
Originally posted by punkdork
I wrenched mine on with tons of force, I didn't want it to be too loose. I also had the clunking and moving the rear brackets inward worked for me.
I wrenched mine on with tons of force, I didn't want it to be too loose. I also had the clunking and moving the rear brackets inward worked for me.
Thanks
#9
Originally posted by MarkF
Approximately how much inward should they be? Can you give me an approximate from the outside bends?
Thanks
Approximately how much inward should they be? Can you give me an approximate from the outside bends?
Thanks
#10
The sides were a real pain to mount.
Those side brackets totally sucked to install. There is no way that they are meant for a 5th generation. I am guessing that someone just realized that they could make an extra buck claiming that they fit both generations.
Thanks for the clunk info...I am sure that will be my next issue in my Addcco RSB terror tale.
#12
Ok so just to clarify, the rear bushings should be 4-6" in from the bends and the side ubolts should have how much thread showing through the nut?
Next question do both sides in the rear have to be set up equal. In other words do both the left side and right side ave to be 6" in? Can one be 4 and one be 6? Would that cause the clunk?
Thanks
Next question do both sides in the rear have to be set up equal. In other words do both the left side and right side ave to be 6" in? Can one be 4 and one be 6? Would that cause the clunk?
Thanks
#13
Originally posted by MarkF
Ok so just to clarify, the rear bushings should be 4-6" in from the bends and the side ubolts should have how much thread showing through the nut?
Next question do both sides in the rear have to be set up equal. In other words do both the left side and right side ave to be 6" in? Can one be 4 and one be 6? Would that cause the clunk?
Thanks
Ok so just to clarify, the rear bushings should be 4-6" in from the bends and the side ubolts should have how much thread showing through the nut?
Next question do both sides in the rear have to be set up equal. In other words do both the left side and right side ave to be 6" in? Can one be 4 and one be 6? Would that cause the clunk?
Thanks
#14
Originally posted by MarkF
Ok so just to clarify, the rear bushings should be 4-6" in from the bends and the side ubolts should have how much thread showing through the nut?
Next question do both sides in the rear have to be set up equal. In other words do both the left side and right side ave to be 6" in? Can one be 4 and one be 6? Would that cause the clunk?
Thanks
Ok so just to clarify, the rear bushings should be 4-6" in from the bends and the side ubolts should have how much thread showing through the nut?
Next question do both sides in the rear have to be set up equal. In other words do both the left side and right side ave to be 6" in? Can one be 4 and one be 6? Would that cause the clunk?
Thanks
wdave
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