2002 Exhaust (replacement)
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2002 Exhaust (replacement)
Well my stock exhaust has a leak in it. I need to find a replacement (stock) exhaust for it. I can't seem to find it on and of the google searches I have done. I went to courtesyparts.com and I didn't find it. Anyone give me any insight on this please. Just looking for a stock exhaust for me SE. Thanks in Advance.
give Dave Burnette at southpoint Nissan a call.
He can usually get you anything OEM related....mention the .org and he'll definately help you out,
I know www.autopartswarehouse.com sells SOME OEM items as well
He can usually get you anything OEM related....mention the .org and he'll definately help you out,
I know www.autopartswarehouse.com sells SOME OEM items as well
I have the Y-pipe and B-pipe/resonator off my Florida car in perfect shape. I was going to e-bay them but haven't gotten around to it. I'm not sure what to ask but we can work something out. I have pics available. Just send me a PM.
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Thanks for all the replies guys. Well I put the car up in the air over the weekend to find out that all I need it the muffler. Looks like from the flange towards the muffler rusted and now has come apart. So really all I need. I was looking for the folks that are selling stock exhaust but was unable to find any of them. I know I am getting old and all but damn blind also? DOH! which section on the web site should I be looking at?
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=60
Stock:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=526670
Custom:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=527276
I'm sure there are more if you look hard enough...
Stock:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=526670
Custom:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=527276
I'm sure there are more if you look hard enough...
Btw, from my experience, many stock mufflers eventually rust out right by the flange exactly where yours did. So buying a used stocker may not solve the problem because the same thing may happen again. My advice would be to try to find a stainless steel alternative, either by going aftermarket or by having a shop weld a stainless inlet pipe to a stock muffler, especially since you live in an area where rust is likely an issue.
FYI in regards to the infamous rusted flange and potential brake issues. (information to everyone on the org.)
If the rear section does seperate from the flange, the heat from exhuast flows directly onto one of the rear brake lines and heats the brake fluid. This causes the fluid to loose many of it's lubricating properties and your brake pedal will turn to mush. Eventually, you will have to pump the brakes to get them to properly work.
If there is a cooling period, where your at idle for long period o time or a steady pace (freeway driving) the fluid will coool down and you will get some of your brake pedal feel back, but as soon as you accelerate hard or the exhaust is hotter due to WOT or uphill travel, the brake fluid will boil again and mushy pedal happens.
If this happens, you will need to first fix the exhaust leak, then bleed the entire brake system until you have fresh new fluid flowing into all 4 corners. If you do it the other way around, you will potentially boil the new brake fluid again and again have a mushy pedal.
This is from experience. Just occurred to me last month.
If the rear section does seperate from the flange, the heat from exhuast flows directly onto one of the rear brake lines and heats the brake fluid. This causes the fluid to loose many of it's lubricating properties and your brake pedal will turn to mush. Eventually, you will have to pump the brakes to get them to properly work.
If there is a cooling period, where your at idle for long period o time or a steady pace (freeway driving) the fluid will coool down and you will get some of your brake pedal feel back, but as soon as you accelerate hard or the exhaust is hotter due to WOT or uphill travel, the brake fluid will boil again and mushy pedal happens.
If this happens, you will need to first fix the exhaust leak, then bleed the entire brake system until you have fresh new fluid flowing into all 4 corners. If you do it the other way around, you will potentially boil the new brake fluid again and again have a mushy pedal.
This is from experience. Just occurred to me last month.
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