Any advise on air conditioner compressor replacement? (2000)
07-22-2007, 08:56 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 98
Any advise on air conditioner compressor replacement? (2000)
My air conditioner compressor is making a very loud noise on startup, that dies down when the AC kicks in (within 5 seconds)
Apparently this is the compressor about to fail.. I was wondering if anyone had replaced their own, or how much it should cost to get this replaced. Judging by the Nissan repair manual there are a ton of precautions that have to be taken, I don't think it's a job an amateur should attempt --
Apparently this is the compressor about to fail.. I was wondering if anyone had replaced their own, or how much it should cost to get this replaced. Judging by the Nissan repair manual there are a ton of precautions that have to be taken, I don't think it's a job an amateur should attempt --
07-22-2007, 09:18 AM
#2
first of all, make sure it is the a/c compressor thats faulty and not the a/c belt tensioner. Once, you are sure that it is in fact a bad compressor, have your A/C discharged at a garage, from here on its very simple:
1. Remove the A/C belt by loosening the tensioner bolt 14mm and lowering the tensioner via 14mm on top.
2. Remove the low pressure and high pressure hoses: 12 mm.
3. Remove the four 14 mm bolts that bolt the compressor to the engine.
4. Remove the compressor and install a new one.
5. follow above procedures in reverse.
6. Have a/c charged again at a shop.
You will need to remove the splash shields on the right side (2 of them) to access the A/C compressor.
The whole job should take you less than an hour, just make sure you discharge and charge the a/c at a quilified shop and that there is absolutely no pressure in the system before removing the low and high pressure hoses.
You are probebly looking at $80 - 200 in labor charge plus a/c charge and the a/c compressor if you bring it to a shop to do it. And 3-4 times that if you bring it to Nissan to do this.
Good luck.
1. Remove the A/C belt by loosening the tensioner bolt 14mm and lowering the tensioner via 14mm on top.
2. Remove the low pressure and high pressure hoses: 12 mm.
3. Remove the four 14 mm bolts that bolt the compressor to the engine.
4. Remove the compressor and install a new one.
5. follow above procedures in reverse.
6. Have a/c charged again at a shop.
You will need to remove the splash shields on the right side (2 of them) to access the A/C compressor.
The whole job should take you less than an hour, just make sure you discharge and charge the a/c at a quilified shop and that there is absolutely no pressure in the system before removing the low and high pressure hoses.
You are probebly looking at $80 - 200 in labor charge plus a/c charge and the a/c compressor if you bring it to a shop to do it. And 3-4 times that if you bring it to Nissan to do this.
Good luck.
07-22-2007, 11:43 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 98
Well I think it just blew out, I took the car out and after a few miles it started blowing tepid, warm air. I messed with the settings for about 20 minutes but it doesn't respond.
Thanks for the info, but how can I tell whether it's the tensioner and not the compressor? Btw if it just died, it probably wasn't the tensioner eh.
Thanks for the info, but how can I tell whether it's the tensioner and not the compressor? Btw if it just died, it probably wasn't the tensioner eh.
10-22-2009, 06:11 PM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
Ok I searched and this was the closest thread I could find. Here's my situation, also a 2000 SE. About a week ago I got the battery/brake lights, drove it straight home, charged the battery, drove it straight the next morning to my guy. Had alternator rebuilt by my very good mechanic. Shortly after, got a consistent whine, changed pitch with rpm and when A/C kicked on. Had my mechanic check it out, he believes it's ac compressor clutch bearing. A/C blows cold fine.
You guessed it , clutch bearing, or even clutch, apparently n/a. Looks like $300 for a reman compressor/clutch assy, another $200 for install, he says leave in the filter/dryer.
I saw some notation on make sure voltages/grounds are good, but this really sounds like bearings going out. Suggestions?
As winter is coming on, I'm tempted to just let it go for now and deal with it with a tax refund or lottery win next spring. Consequences?
You guessed it , clutch bearing, or even clutch, apparently n/a. Looks like $300 for a reman compressor/clutch assy, another $200 for install, he says leave in the filter/dryer.
I saw some notation on make sure voltages/grounds are good, but this really sounds like bearings going out. Suggestions?
As winter is coming on, I'm tempted to just let it go for now and deal with it with a tax refund or lottery win next spring. Consequences?
Last edited by blueridge; 10-22-2009 at 06:13 PM.
10-22-2009, 09:15 PM
#5
Ok I searched and this was the closest thread I could find. Here's my situation, also a 2000 SE. About a week ago I got the battery/brake lights, drove it straight home, charged the battery, drove it straight the next morning to my guy. Had alternator rebuilt by my very good mechanic. Shortly after, got a consistent whine, changed pitch with rpm and when A/C kicked on. Had my mechanic check it out, he believes it's ac compressor clutch bearing. A/C blows cold fine.
You guessed it , clutch bearing, or even clutch, apparently n/a. Looks like $300 for a reman compressor/clutch assy, another $200 for install, he says leave in the filter/dryer.
I saw some notation on make sure voltages/grounds are good, but this really sounds like bearings going out. Suggestions?
As winter is coming on, I'm tempted to just let it go for now and deal with it with a tax refund or lottery win next spring. Consequences?
You guessed it , clutch bearing, or even clutch, apparently n/a. Looks like $300 for a reman compressor/clutch assy, another $200 for install, he says leave in the filter/dryer.
I saw some notation on make sure voltages/grounds are good, but this really sounds like bearings going out. Suggestions?
As winter is coming on, I'm tempted to just let it go for now and deal with it with a tax refund or lottery win next spring. Consequences?
The dealer stated there is no replacement for the A/C clutch bearing, but some people on here have stated you can get it as a separate part. Do a search and check around...it would save you a ton of money if you can get just the bearing.
10-22-2009, 09:18 PM
#6
Well I think it just blew out, I took the car out and after a few miles it started blowing tepid, warm air. I messed with the settings for about 20 minutes but it doesn't respond.
Thanks for the info, but how can I tell whether it's the tensioner and not the compressor? Btw if it just died, it probably wasn't the tensioner eh.
Thanks for the info, but how can I tell whether it's the tensioner and not the compressor? Btw if it just died, it probably wasn't the tensioner eh.
If the compressor wheel is turning fine and you don't have a squeal or whine with it on then have the system checked for leaks.
10-22-2009, 11:33 PM
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 251
10-23-2009, 12:29 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 427
it sounds like the problem is the AC clutch, that that costs $400+ dollars...about the same as a new or refurbished complete compressor. I bought a USED complete compressor from KRAGEN and it was $230, then installed it myself. It's totally doable yourself. Make sure to purshase NEW O-Rings or it will leak.
10-23-2009, 05:44 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
10-28-2009, 05:21 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 40
Well I had my guy do this for my situation, it was an NSK bearing that turned out to be a pita to locate, I had him check some industrial bearing houses, he had box of good, reusable parts in a corner and found a Nippondenso a/c with same bearing so used it. Sounds good now, $15 for the bearing, $200 for labor and R134a.
Also did transmission service, drop old trailer hitch, and of course,
machine rotors (the ban of a Maxima in the mountains)
2000 SE
327,089 miles
Also did transmission service, drop old trailer hitch, and of course,
machine rotors (the ban of a Maxima in the mountains)
2000 SE
327,089 miles
10-25-2011, 03:35 PM
#11
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
AC Clutch Bearing
You can get the AC clutch pulley bearing from http://www.bearingsdirect.com/ or call 818-951-0651. My 2000 Maxima takes the double row ball bearing OD: 55mm, ID 35mm, Height 20MM Part number: 35BD219DUK. Leaving the compressor in the car, I made a clutch pulley puller from bar stock and bolts. After removing the snap ring and soaking the shaft with PB Blaster, it came right off using the home made puller. I bought a press from Harbor Freight and once the clutch pulley was removed, pressed out the old bearing and put the new one in. It helps to freeze the new bearing before pressing it in. Once the new bearing was in, it took several attempts to adjust the clutch cover plate distance with shims to get the proper gap. Too large of a gap and the clutch will slip or wont engage, too little gap and it will not disengage. It took 4 tries to get it right. Works like a charm now and it saved me over 500 bucks rather than to replace the entire compressor.
Last edited by MaximaMarc; 10-26-2011 at 10:29 AM.
10-25-2011, 03:45 PM
#12
You can get the AC clutch pulley bearing from http://www.bearingsdirect.com/ or call 818-951-0651. My 2000 Maxima takes the double row ball bearing OD: 55mm, ID 35mm, Height 20MM Part number: 35BD219DUK. Leaving the compressor in the car, I made a clutch pulley puller from bar stock and bolts. After removing the snap ring and soaking the shaft with PB Blaster, it came right off using the home made puller. I bought a press from Harbor Freight and once the clutch pulley was removed, pressed out the old bearing and put the new one in. It helps to freeze the new bearing before pressing it in. Once the new bearing was in, it took several attempts to adjust the clutch cover plate distance with shims to get the proper gap. Too large of a gap and the clutch will slip or wont engage, too little gap and it will not disengage. It took 4 tries to get it right. Works like a charm now and it saved me over 500 bucks rather than to replace the entire compressor.
Descriptive information on a repair that effects many of our high mileage cars. Well done. Welcome to the org!
01-04-2013, 04:31 PM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
X2!!! This would also be a great 10,000th post!!
I just went to the website and searched for the part number he listed and it was $26.99. Free shipping if order $50 worth! (Not sure I'll find another bearing I want, but who knows!)
Here's the link for the 2000 Maxima part:
http://bearingsdirect.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
2013-01-07 Edit: Just noticed that searching for the part number above returns a different part number, but it has the same OD, ID, and height, so it should be good. Here's what I got back:
Automotive A/C Compressor Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing
SKU 35BG05S10G-2DS
Quantity in stock 226 item(s) available
Weight 0.70 lbs
SIZES ID: 35 x OD: 55 x W: 20 mm
LUBRICATION Chevron SRI-2
MATERIAL Chrome Steel SAE-52100
Market price: $28.90
Our price: $26.99
I just went to the website and searched for the part number he listed and it was $26.99. Free shipping if order $50 worth! (Not sure I'll find another bearing I want, but who knows!)
Here's the link for the 2000 Maxima part:
http://bearingsdirect.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
2013-01-07 Edit: Just noticed that searching for the part number above returns a different part number, but it has the same OD, ID, and height, so it should be good. Here's what I got back:
Automotive A/C Compressor Double Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing
SKU 35BG05S10G-2DS
Quantity in stock 226 item(s) available
Weight 0.70 lbs
SIZES ID: 35 x OD: 55 x W: 20 mm
LUBRICATION Chevron SRI-2
MATERIAL Chrome Steel SAE-52100
Market price: $28.90
Our price: $26.99
Last edited by isrb710; 01-07-2013 at 08:48 PM.
01-04-2013, 04:34 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
Does anyone know if a bad compressor pulley bearing would cause the compressor pulley to totally freeze up?
Does that always mean it's a bad compressor?
Mine did that and the serpentine belt broke in two and some of it melted onto the pulley. I already have a Harbor Freight 20 ton press, so I'd like to go this route if it'll work.
Thanks, Ron
Does that always mean it's a bad compressor?
Mine did that and the serpentine belt broke in two and some of it melted onto the pulley. I already have a Harbor Freight 20 ton press, so I'd like to go this route if it'll work.
Thanks, Ron
01-04-2013, 04:42 PM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
fyi - The power steering pump will work without a serpentine belt, so you can drive for a while with the headlights turned off if you fully charge the battery. It looks like the only 2 things powered by the serpentine belt are the a/c compressor and the alternator. I drove it about 5 miles and it seemed fine except for the brake and battery dash lights stayed on. When I got home, my charger said the battery was at 40%.
I once drove about 125 miles with an alternator fan wedged against a bracket. (My dad had just had the belts replaced.) When it started getting dark, I turned the lights on (at about 100 miles) and they kept getting dimmer and dimmer. I pulled off at a service station and a mechanic found the problem as soon as he popped the hood. It took him about 2 minutes to fix. He didn't even charge me! That was a good day.
I once drove about 125 miles with an alternator fan wedged against a bracket. (My dad had just had the belts replaced.) When it started getting dark, I turned the lights on (at about 100 miles) and they kept getting dimmer and dimmer. I pulled off at a service station and a mechanic found the problem as soon as he popped the hood. It took him about 2 minutes to fix. He didn't even charge me! That was a good day.
Last edited by isrb710; 01-04-2013 at 04:45 PM.
01-08-2013, 07:39 AM
#17
Does anyone know if a bad compressor pulley bearing would cause the compressor pulley to totally freeze up?
Does that always mean it's a bad compressor?
Mine did that and the serpentine belt broke in two and some of it melted onto the pulley. I already have a Harbor Freight 20 ton press, so I'd like to go this route if it'll work.
Thanks, Ron
Does that always mean it's a bad compressor?
Mine did that and the serpentine belt broke in two and some of it melted onto the pulley. I already have a Harbor Freight 20 ton press, so I'd like to go this route if it'll work.
Thanks, Ron
01-08-2013, 08:59 PM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
Thanks for the reply!
It took some doing, but I got the clutch and pulley off.
The clutch had to be pried off with 2 pry bars at once on opposite sides of the clutch.
The pulley also had to be "tapped" off. I tapped it firmly with a rubber mallet in 2 or 3 spots around the pulley and it popped off.
For both parts, I used PB Blaster to loosen things up.
I had a bad pulley bearing. As soon as I got the clutch off, I could see a ball bearing falling out. None of the bearing was intact! I'm not even sure if I can press out what's left of the outer race on the bearing, so I may have to order a new pulley too.
When I got the pulley off, I could see the windings on the field coil. Makes me wonder if there's a cover plate missing. I suppose the pulley itself may be the field coil cover.
I found 2 twisted metal circles - one inside the clutch and one inside the pulley. I think they are the top and bottom covers of the pulley bearing, since it was totally destroyed. It's possible one of them may be the cover for the field coil, but it looks too thin for that.
I was able to turn the compressor spindle by hand once I got the pulley off, so I think the compressor itself is still good! That's going to save a few bucks!!
I may buy a used compressor for its pulley/bearing part. I'm taking the parts to a friend who's a mechanic to get his opinion on what I should do.
It took some doing, but I got the clutch and pulley off.
The clutch had to be pried off with 2 pry bars at once on opposite sides of the clutch.
The pulley also had to be "tapped" off. I tapped it firmly with a rubber mallet in 2 or 3 spots around the pulley and it popped off.
For both parts, I used PB Blaster to loosen things up.
I had a bad pulley bearing. As soon as I got the clutch off, I could see a ball bearing falling out. None of the bearing was intact! I'm not even sure if I can press out what's left of the outer race on the bearing, so I may have to order a new pulley too.
When I got the pulley off, I could see the windings on the field coil. Makes me wonder if there's a cover plate missing. I suppose the pulley itself may be the field coil cover.
I found 2 twisted metal circles - one inside the clutch and one inside the pulley. I think they are the top and bottom covers of the pulley bearing, since it was totally destroyed. It's possible one of them may be the cover for the field coil, but it looks too thin for that.
I was able to turn the compressor spindle by hand once I got the pulley off, so I think the compressor itself is still good! That's going to save a few bucks!!
I may buy a used compressor for its pulley/bearing part. I'm taking the parts to a friend who's a mechanic to get his opinion on what I should do.
Last edited by isrb710; 01-13-2013 at 03:45 PM.
01-10-2013, 08:31 PM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
My mechanic buddy said I should be able to pound the remains of the bearing out with a hammer and chisel or punch. I also think I may use my dremel tool to cut it out.
I double-checked the measurements and the old bearing was 55mm OD x 35 mm ID x 20 mm width. So I ordered one from Bearings Direct.Com . Now waiting for the part to arrive.
I could also have ordered one from AutoZone. Here's the link:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-je1edZ91td3
It was slightly cheaper at AZ, but I opted for the bearing from Bearings Direct hoping that I'd get a better bearing from a dedicted bearing supplier.
I double-checked the measurements and the old bearing was 55mm OD x 35 mm ID x 20 mm width. So I ordered one from Bearings Direct.Com . Now waiting for the part to arrive.
I could also have ordered one from AutoZone. Here's the link:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-je1edZ91td3
It was slightly cheaper at AZ, but I opted for the bearing from Bearings Direct hoping that I'd get a better bearing from a dedicted bearing supplier.
01-12-2013, 06:31 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
The bearing arrived today, so I worked on getting the old bearing out. I first used my Craftsman version of a Dremel tool to cut a couple of grooves in the outer race of the old wheel bearing. I made the cuts about 1/4 inch apart.
I got a little bit into the pulley on one of them, but it didn't cause any issues. On that one I was trying to cut through the race. On the other one, I had started the cut by a pean on the pulley, so I didn't cut it as deep. I then used a small sledge and a punch and tried knocking that piece out. But instead it bent inward at about a 90 degree angle. (I was pounding from the inside of the pulley - i.e., the side with the peans.) I tried a pair of Channel Lock pliers. Lo and behold, I was able to pull the race out of the pulley! I'm NOT real strong, just determined.
I then used my press and a 65 mm bearing/pulley disc to press it in in about 5 minutes tops. I got the bearing about 95 % in - about flush with the pulley surface using the large side of the disc. Then I turned it over and pushed it in a little more. I pulled it out and checked to see if the pulley was bottomed out and it still had a slight gap, so I pushed it in 2 more cranks on the bottle jack. (My Harbor Freight press isn't fancy, but it got the job done!) This time, it was bottomed out.
Now back to the repair. It's been a week since I started and I had to check out the diagram in the AC Bearing replacement thread mentioned above.
I got a little bit into the pulley on one of them, but it didn't cause any issues. On that one I was trying to cut through the race. On the other one, I had started the cut by a pean on the pulley, so I didn't cut it as deep. I then used a small sledge and a punch and tried knocking that piece out. But instead it bent inward at about a 90 degree angle. (I was pounding from the inside of the pulley - i.e., the side with the peans.) I tried a pair of Channel Lock pliers. Lo and behold, I was able to pull the race out of the pulley! I'm NOT real strong, just determined.
I then used my press and a 65 mm bearing/pulley disc to press it in in about 5 minutes tops. I got the bearing about 95 % in - about flush with the pulley surface using the large side of the disc. Then I turned it over and pushed it in a little more. I pulled it out and checked to see if the pulley was bottomed out and it still had a slight gap, so I pushed it in 2 more cranks on the bottle jack. (My Harbor Freight press isn't fancy, but it got the job done!) This time, it was bottomed out.
Now back to the repair. It's been a week since I started and I had to check out the diagram in the AC Bearing replacement thread mentioned above.
Last edited by isrb710; 01-13-2013 at 03:47 PM.
01-13-2013, 04:02 PM
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
I got the pulley back on by using a hammer and a couple of short 2 x 4 wood pieces. I pushed it on JUST enough to get the snap ring back on.
This was done with the compressor on the car, so I won't have to discharge, evacuate and recharge the system!
When I spun the pulley by hand a few times, it caught some of the wires on the field coil. It even broke off a few short pieces of wire. My mechanic friend thinks the bearing must have also screwed up the field coil. Every field coil I've looked at online has had a cover over the wires. So he's probably right about that. I would think water/debris could splash in there if they're NOT covered AND I found a small amount of debris at the bottom of the coil. Especially with the compressor being so low in our cars.
I've been searching the internet to find a replacement coil for over an hour without any luck.
Anybody know where to purchase a replacement AC coil for a 2000 Maxima?
Our Maxima has an August 1999 build date, which apparently makes a difference in the compressor parts (and others). I found one coil for a 2000, but it was only good if your clutch plate was 4.51 inches. Mine is 4.31 inches - NUTS!!!
All the online Nissan parts places carry complete compressors and clutch assemblies, but those are $500+ and $400+ list price. Slightly less online. I've checked Amazon, Ebay, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly and NAPA - no luck there either. I've been going thru internet search hits, but nothing so far.
Thanks, Ron
This was done with the compressor on the car, so I won't have to discharge, evacuate and recharge the system!
When I spun the pulley by hand a few times, it caught some of the wires on the field coil. It even broke off a few short pieces of wire. My mechanic friend thinks the bearing must have also screwed up the field coil. Every field coil I've looked at online has had a cover over the wires. So he's probably right about that. I would think water/debris could splash in there if they're NOT covered AND I found a small amount of debris at the bottom of the coil. Especially with the compressor being so low in our cars.
I've been searching the internet to find a replacement coil for over an hour without any luck.
Anybody know where to purchase a replacement AC coil for a 2000 Maxima?
Our Maxima has an August 1999 build date, which apparently makes a difference in the compressor parts (and others). I found one coil for a 2000, but it was only good if your clutch plate was 4.51 inches. Mine is 4.31 inches - NUTS!!!
All the online Nissan parts places carry complete compressors and clutch assemblies, but those are $500+ and $400+ list price. Slightly less online. I've checked Amazon, Ebay, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly and NAPA - no luck there either. I've been going thru internet search hits, but nothing so far.
Thanks, Ron
01-13-2013, 04:15 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 973
I got the pulley back on by using a hammer and a couple of short 2 x 4 wood pieces. I pushed it on JUST enough to get the snap ring back on.
This was done with the compressor on the car, so I won't have to discharge, evacuate and recharge the system!
When I spun the pulley by hand a few times, it caught some of the wires on the field coil. It even broke off a few short pieces of wire. My mechanic friend thinks the bearing must have also screwed up the field coil. Every field coil I've looked at online has had a cover over the wires. So he's probably right about that. I would think water/debris could splash in there if they're NOT covered AND I found a small amount of debris at the bottom of the coil. Especially with the compressor being so low in our cars.
I've been searching the internet to find a replacement coil for over an hour without any luck.
Anybody know where to purchase a replacement AC coil for a 2000 Maxima?
Our Maxima has an August 1999 build date, which apparently makes a difference in the compressor parts (and others). I found one coil for a 2000, but it was only good if your clutch plate was 4.51 inches. Mine is 4.31 inches - NUTS!!!
All the online Nissan parts places carry complete compressors and clutch assemblies, but those are $500+ and $400+ list price. Slightly less online. I've checked Amazon, Ebay, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly and NAPA - no luck there either. I've been going thru internet search hits, but nothing so far.
Thanks, Ron
This was done with the compressor on the car, so I won't have to discharge, evacuate and recharge the system!
When I spun the pulley by hand a few times, it caught some of the wires on the field coil. It even broke off a few short pieces of wire. My mechanic friend thinks the bearing must have also screwed up the field coil. Every field coil I've looked at online has had a cover over the wires. So he's probably right about that. I would think water/debris could splash in there if they're NOT covered AND I found a small amount of debris at the bottom of the coil. Especially with the compressor being so low in our cars.
I've been searching the internet to find a replacement coil for over an hour without any luck.
Anybody know where to purchase a replacement AC coil for a 2000 Maxima?
Our Maxima has an August 1999 build date, which apparently makes a difference in the compressor parts (and others). I found one coil for a 2000, but it was only good if your clutch plate was 4.51 inches. Mine is 4.31 inches - NUTS!!!
All the online Nissan parts places carry complete compressors and clutch assemblies, but those are $500+ and $400+ list price. Slightly less online. I've checked Amazon, Ebay, Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly and NAPA - no luck there either. I've been going thru internet search hits, but nothing so far.
Thanks, Ron
01-15-2013, 04:34 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delaware, OH
Posts: 26
Here's another possibility for the pulley bearing. $13.99 and free standard shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AC-COMPR...item25787d0041
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AC-COMPR...item25787d0041
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