I don't know if this has been answered or not. I looked around but didnt find any threads. Where is the vehicle speed sensor located (the exact location) and what color are the wires? For a 2002 Maxima.....thanx

 

It's read by the ABS system, no way to really "jump" it mechanically. It's set at 154mph from the factory for the automatic cars. I dont think there is one for the 6mt's. Either way, the car can't reach it stock.

 

LOL for autos its 129 for 6mt its 154....i thought i could tap into it from the speedometer harness....i thought it was either the light green/black or the white/brown one.....im not sure though.

 

Thats not what we found in there when we sent the ECU to TS, they found 154 (249km/h). Go figure, I dont think it would be wise to mess with the wire though.

 

yeah its about 130 for the auto

 

That might be as fast as it goes, stock, but I assure you that it's 154 mph with a stock ECU. Put the car on a dyno, and let it run into 4th gear, and you will see. 3rd gear, which is the dyno gear, ends at 143 mph. It is easily reached on the dyno.

 

You're saying that you've dynoed an auto and this is what you found out? This is a little interesting cause I thot that 127 was 'shut-off' for a 5.5 auto max. I know someone told me before I got my own 6mt that theirs did 145 in 5th. Does this mean you're actually losing this much HP through the slushbox that 127 is all you can attain? To the OP, sorry for hijacking your thread but I thought this was kina interesting.

 

5th???? autos don't have a 5th gear.....i haven't did anything with my ecu....and i hit my governor all the time...it stops right before 130. 6 speeds can get 154....not autos.

 

nice max. really like it. It would be nicer if i was stick.

 

Even with a stock rev limit? I've taken mine to about 130 MPH on a dyno in 3rd w/stock ECU. And w/TS ECU, seems to go up to about 137 ish @ 7k, I'll have to check my runfiles for verification.

Check the FSM for color reference wires, but..why, in the first place, are you interested?

If you do not have actual data, then I would almost call . Toss it on a dyno and get the data since we all know the speedometer and tachometers are calibrated by 3rd graders.


There was a member on here that tested the stock speed limiter on a 6MT on a dyno and saw 149MPH

 

No I'm comparing the auto to the 6mt. 5th in the 6mt was 145 yet the auto can only go 125-130. Thats all I'm saying.

 

bah, no wonder my auto was slow. i got y-pipe, intake SSIM and short ram which according to you netted me about 0 whp...

 

thanx...when i learn to drive one...it'll get a 6 speed swap.

 

so i can cut them or put a switch on them. someone actually did it with an altima, but his speed sensor is right on top of the tranny where u can see it. so he just unplugged it...now he has no governor.

i mean 129....130 it still aint going no faster than that ON THE STREET.....im not talking bout no dyno here.


u might be right...i dont know for sure cuz i have no 6MT.

 

oh ok....i wasnt sure what u was talking bout

 

The limiter has nothing to do with the Auto's top speed. If you pull it, a stock 4at is not going to go much faster than 130, either way, its set to 154mph. I have witnessed a stock 6mt pull 157mph on the dyno, which means either of two things; 1) there is no limiter 2) it's there, but set higher than 154. This is why you should be doing this on a dyno (preferably an eddy current machine that can simulate drag), you will see that there is no speed limiter at 130...if you want to go faster, get some power mods. Disabling your vehicle speed sensor is just going to play havoc with you ABS and TCM. There is no point in doing it. Fully modified, a 5.5 gen auto on an unnamed stretch of highway in an unnamed state driven by someone that may or may not be in this thread, was GPS verified at 162mph.

 

:attention

with a ts ecu eh?

 

Yes.

SSIM intake is useless without an ecu and piggyback, as is the Y pipe (which is good for ~6-8hp tops w/o tuning). Intake w/o exhaust isnt going to make any real hp either (maybe 3hp with the best intake/filter). Headers are where the real power gains are, and with the other stuff you have (and a piggyback + ECU) you can make some serious gains.

 

Like 50whp @ certain given RPM's, plus mucho gains under the curve.

 

interesting then that EVERYONE that does either an SSIM or y-pipe shows gains. and i think that (6 to 8)+3 whp is plenty to gain 1-2 MPH top speed. it was certainly enough for 1-2 in the 1/4 with a .3 ET drop. but you must be right, sorry i got confused.

 

I helped develop the SSIM (hot weather testing) with SR20, you dont really see the full gain unless you tune. Y pipes gains are more weight loss than anythng else, 9-12hp across the curve and -25lbs do help though. Get some headers and you might see gains as high as 50whp at points (from stock)

 

well i have a 6-speed now and im more concentrated on MAF/intake work for the moment. not to mention i dont have the cash for headers. so im reasearching and doing the free mods and trying to think of my own. i guess im starting from the front and working back on this car. but headers are def planned. i know you dont get the full effect, dont get me wrong. i was just saying there is an effect.

 

An effect that's going to change with headers. I wouldnt put too much development in until I got headers on there.

 

Your first mistake was the y-pipe. I almost made that mistake until I found used CM-1G headers for a price I couldn't resist.

 

I have one, if you still want to make that mistake

 

i dont understand why i should do nothing until i get headers. just because im not getting maximum gains doesnt mean that everything should get passed up...

yeah i wanted headers, but 125>>>800 IMO. i appreciated the gains for a reasonable price and will stay this was until i have more to spend.

PS: why is this thread about me getting headers?

 

Not with respect to quantity.

The point is headers change everything. You'll : yourself when you finally do get them on for not getting them on earlier.

You have more parts for that car than....

 

Because the dynamics of the cylinder pulses is going to change dramatically, and its likely you will be working against yourself by doing this first. The first pinch point is the exhaust/tuning. Once you get that all straightened out, then you tackle the intake and retune.

 

That's what I've done and have found, with the help of others, at this point it seems to be the most efficient/best bang for the buck.

 

lucky **** had someone to spend the money/make mistakes for you...I wonder who that could be....

 

I'm still one of the few idiots here, if not the ONLY one here w/ TS F-spec & AFC, and NO EB/EU though.

 

I just wanted to hear you say it again

 

i still dont understand this idea. if im getting more power now for free then why not? its not like im just gonna leave it how it is when i get headers (which trust me, i am not against in any way, they ARE in my future). the tweaking will continue. but for now im getting more power for basically free.

lol. yeah im def getting the EU or UTEC (depending on what jime does with the utec).

 

It really isnt worth wasting your time over, since it's all going to change. If you've got time to burn, go for it, but it's all for naught in the end.

 

its stuff like custom CAI, SSIM, larger maf housing. stuff that people with headers are doing as well. things that when i tune after headers will really make a difference

 

Larger MAF isnt free, and only makes a difference on the top end (which you cant use without headers, same deal for SSIM. Dont bother with a custom CAI, I've tried just about every single combination, they're all with dyno error of each other. The main factor was the air filter, (K&N straight cone w/ open top all the way btw). The cattman/PR is the way to go (cause you can make it a short ram with a minimum of fuss, if need be). Also, work on selling that Y pipe too. A penny here and there, and you'll have saved up the $$ in no time.

 

cost me something like $12 althought its only 75 and not 82.

 

well while their car is going that fast...mine isnt...its almost like the fuel supply to the engine shuts off....not allowing my car to go any faster than 129....that is all im saying....and i rode my limiter for about 1 min with the accelerator all the way to the ground.....the mph stayed the same and the rpm stayed the same....NO MORE.....

 

my intake and exhaust gave me about 10 hp

 

Initial throttle response as well all part throttle response is vastly improved. Something that has to be felt to be believed.

is that so?
What gear were you in?

Hence the phrase not free. Still, you're going to this not as good as it could be. i.e. y-pipe, not headers, bored stock unit, and not M62 unit. I see a patten here and it points to you not using $$ inefficiently on modifications for MAXIMUM gains. It took a lot for me not tog et a y-pipe for my 03, but in the end I was glad. So I had to drive around for a while w/o y-pipe or headers, big deal. Better than buying both etc. I know I'm one to talk w/ my SAFCII and TS f-spec, but all the more reason to listen to me.

If you are sanding your MAF and don't want to shell out for headers, I think UTEC/EU is not a definite for you right now.