So my car has under 68,000 miles on it. I just replaced the rear brake pad on the car. As I rotate clockwise the rear caliper piston on the passenger side, it was very hard to rotate it, but I was able to rotate it all the way with MUCH effort. Needless to say, the passenger side caliper is almost seizing. The Driver's side caliper rotated back in with ease. Luckily, the seizing rear caliper is not dragging the rotor, or stuck. It brakes absolutely fine. However, by the time I replace the rear brake pads next time, it will likely need replacement.

Do any of you guys have this kind of problem at such low mileage?

 

brake calipers don't care about mileage. They care about age and the weather conditions the car is parked in.

rear calipers seize faily commonplace. They're cheap to replace, so just go to pep boys and get a reman'd one.

 

Also check that the slide pins and pin boots are in good condition. One of my boots had a tear. It let in water and dirt over time and it finally seized up one of the slide pins on the rear pass caliper. Made that wheel drag a little and wore down that set of pads.

Used new silicon grease (not petroleum based) and new boot and it was good as new.

 

I had one rear one sieze at about 40K. It happens. Replace, bleed and move on. Driving around with one dragging even slightly means you'll be replacing pads very soon.

 

bought the car used, on the way home from dealer, right rear seized, and muffer flange rotted out, replaced muffler and right rear, about 2 weeks later left rear went, now its been about 4 months and the NEW Replacement is starting to hang on the right rear again, wtf........ system flush, fresh fluid, brake lube on all the guid pins, It most be a defect in the caliber itself.
Car now has 117K on it/

 

To prevent this you just need to do a brake maintenance twice a year and your brake will always be fine.

 

Well, I use permatex synthetic caliper pin sliding grease on all my pins, and I replace the grease once a year for braking performance. I have performed brake maintenance, caliper replacement, system bleed, pad/rotor replacement on mine and my friends' cars over 100 times. I am quite shocked to find that one of my rear calipers on the Maxima is seized. It isn't completely seized, though. It requires a little more force than usual to rotate back in. I had up to 170k miles on another car which calipers are still fine.

Of course, I park indoor all the time and drive in the dry west coast.


Professor`, check the ebrake mechanism and cable for binding.

 

Ive checked the ebrake cable for snags, its free, however i always put my ebrake on when i park, I pull it up after i stop then i put it in park to prevent to much strain on the tranny being in park, My sentra was hit in the rear while parked, it sheared the gear/pin whatever that holds it in park and the car rolled across the street into a embankment, Thats the reason i always put on the ebrake now when i park, can daily use of this cause caliber failure faster then normal ?

 

If its seized just remove the brake line bolt totally, set the caliper on some thing solid, put a block of wood on the piston and whack it pretty good with a hammer sized sledge (the small ones). What ever is in there blocking will come out. I have had to sometimes hit them 3-4 times but it will compress and clear out the blockage. Then all have to do is bleed it and test it out. No need to buy another with that low mileage unless its leaking on the piston side.