For those using O2 sims, does your service engine light actually stay off forever. I have been using an O2 sim to shut up my service engine light since last summer when I got my y-pipe. Since then I have passed two NYS inspections with it. However, the service engine light still pops back up time to time. Usually after its rains when its all foggy out (either late at night or early in the morning) is when it usually turns on for me. I guess this isnt a big deal but I was just curious what other people experienced.

 

Mine will pop up everyonce in a while, usually on long road trips.

 

mine comes and goes too. Stays off for a month, pops on for a few days, goes away again. Mine always pops on when I start the car though. It's never come on while driving.

 

i just installed mine about a month ago .. and no problems yet *knock on wood*...

 

Mine throws codes every once in a while. Its always been heater circuit codes though. I can always just clear it and it goes away.

 

Thats weird, you shouldnt get the heater code if you are faking an O2 sensor... since the sim needs an intact heater. I always get the catalyst deficiency code.

 

im gunna thread jack a little bit!!!


my engine light has been on since i put the headers on. its the O2 codes comin back, where can i find the sim, or would just a spacer work???

 

Its more common than u think. Heres some interesting reading. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=435399

www.02simulator.com also the first page of the header sticky

 

if you can solder i posted a schematic with a part list from radio shack... it cost ~$10 to make your self... mine has been working great.... if you dont want to build it then order it from o2sim.com

 

I have a dual output sim and no precats, and the MIL has been off since April 2006. I've passed two VA state OBD-II based inspections since as well.

 

Everything form what I have seen says that you should get the dual output sim and then get 2 bungs welded after the the main cat so you won't get the heater code...

 

You don't need to bung the O2s if you leave them plugged in, along with the sim. Heck, if you successfully extend the O2 wires to reach the bungs, you won't even need a sim.

Many of you have already seen this, but I'll post it again:



This is where my rear O2s are and I have no heater codes.

 

of the people who still throw random codes, has anyone else noticed if their CEL comes on when its foggy out. I am beginning to think that its poor connections on the signal wire... im going to un tape things and solder the wires, then seal up the wire with liquid tape, I hope that works

 

well cant you use regular O2 sensors instead of the simulators? Or will the aftermarket Y-Pipe kill them or something

 

with an aftermarket y-pipe you dont have any pre-cats so even if the o2 sensors are in working condition they will report that the pre-cats are working like they should and you will get a CEL... hence the need for the simulator

 

^^ ok thanks.....So basically ill still be forced to use a universal O2 simulator and splice the connectors if i upgrade Y-Pipes

 

so what do you have plugged into the holes on the ypipe?

 

He has headers, so aside from the primary o2 ports, there are no other holes.

 

i have a 4th gen with warpspeed ypipe

as you know there are two o2 sensor holes..

can i do the same thing as that guy and leave the sensors out and weld the holes

 

Why would you do that?

 

to get rid of the o2 CEL for ever and ever..


hey maybe i'm missing something here... what do i do with the o2 sim ?

 

You still need your primary O2 sensors functional. Is your car cali spec? How man o2 sensors do you have total?

 

fed spec 1995 maxima

2 front

and

1 on cat

 

Ok, if you have a rear o2 code then do it, if not