View Poll Results: Do you think the SSIM is good or bad
Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll
Removed my IM butterfly valve
Originally Posted by pimpin02max
Are you joking me...you honestly voted no??? 
is up with that SR20??? Oh well either way I am doing this mod.
is up with that SR20??? Oh well either way I am doing this mod.
Originally Posted by soonerfan
it depends on what you are doing
drag racing...might help
i auto-x and spend all my time at low end...im not giving that up
drag racing...might help
i auto-x and spend all my time at low end...im not giving that up
Originally Posted by MacGarnicle
If you don't think the mod is worthwhile then STFU and don't do it...
Originally Posted by DasYears
you cant say that in a thread where you asked for opinions
In nobody's defense, I drive my Max daily. I spend 2 hours round trip commuting to and from work. When I am not on the hwy, I am almost always running my rpm's well over 3000k.
I'll take a stab in the dark that the VIAS control was set-up for people who don't "mod" their cars much and basically drive within the mfg. recommended shift points, etc.
I have no hard facts that this mod does or does not work, but hopefully will soon enough. I dynoed my car early summer with just a modified intake. My block-off plate will be here early next week and I will be dynoing again on Sept 29th on the same exact dyno as the first (if all goes well with an upcoming meet here in ohio). Hopefully, the surrounding factors will be very similiar to last time and I will be able to see a before and after comparison.
As a side note: Reason I decided on the block-off plate was it was either that for $25 or to buy a new VIAS solenoid for close to $200. My VIAS solenoid crapped out on me w/o any warning about 2 months ago. So, I chose the cheaper alternative.
I'll take a stab in the dark that the VIAS control was set-up for people who don't "mod" their cars much and basically drive within the mfg. recommended shift points, etc.
I have no hard facts that this mod does or does not work, but hopefully will soon enough. I dynoed my car early summer with just a modified intake. My block-off plate will be here early next week and I will be dynoing again on Sept 29th on the same exact dyno as the first (if all goes well with an upcoming meet here in ohio). Hopefully, the surrounding factors will be very similiar to last time and I will be able to see a before and after comparison.
As a side note: Reason I decided on the block-off plate was it was either that for $25 or to buy a new VIAS solenoid for close to $200. My VIAS solenoid crapped out on me w/o any warning about 2 months ago. So, I chose the cheaper alternative.
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Originally Posted by nismopc
I have no hard facts that this mod does or does not work, but hopefully will soon enough. I dynoed my car early summer with just a modified intake. My block-off plate will be here early next week and I will be dynoing again on Sept 29th on the same exact dyno as the first (if all goes well with an upcoming meet here in ohio). Hopefully, the surrounding factors will be very similiar to last time and I will be able to see a before and after comparison.
As a side note: Reason I decided on the block-off plate was it was either that for $25 or to buy a new VIAS solenoid for close to $200. My VIAS solenoid crapped out on me w/o any warning about 2 months ago. So, I chose the cheaper alternative.
As a side note: Reason I decided on the block-off plate was it was either that for $25 or to buy a new VIAS solenoid for close to $200. My VIAS solenoid crapped out on me w/o any warning about 2 months ago. So, I chose the cheaper alternative.
Originally Posted by DasYears
are you doing the full mod or only block-off plate?
Honestly, I'll state right now because my VIAS is shot, I am bypassing the VIAS by nippling off the vacuum line from the solenod which allows the butterfly to sit in open position al the time. The car screams. If I force the pedal at wot on take off, the tires spin in first without me dropping the clutch and if I shift to second swfitly, the tires just spin like mad. I never recall having this amount of force ever since I've owned the car. I bought the car with 59k and it now has 103k.
But as we all know, butt dyno's are bogus crap. So I hope to see positive info when I get dyno'd.
Interesting. The 2 on the far right look like, well, they might be good. grade JW are they?
Originally Posted by pimpin02max
I didn't know...I was just assuming...
Originally Posted by nismopc
butt dyno's are bogus crap.
x3http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...8&postcount=33
Originally Posted by pimpin02max
Are you joking me...you honestly voted no??? is up with that SR20??? Oh well either way I am doing this mod.
is up with that SR20??? Oh well either way I am doing this mod.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
You already said I didn't know what I was talking about. so...
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I felt the same way when I dc'd my VIAS. I was just like you and everyone else who swore there were gains. juice told me what I'm telling you fellas. I didn't believe him, went to dyno, and proved myself wrong.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
You already said I didn't know what I was talking about. so...
I'm talking about. Wow, I must suck
But at the same time 
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I took all my advice from this man, so then....that would mean, I don't know I'm talking about.
Wow, I must suck But at the same time
I'm talking about. Wow, I must suck
But at the same time Whoa...I'm getting all confused, yeah I guess SR20 took my sarcasm against him the wrong way...
But NmexMax I am on nobody's side...I understand your points and I know that you know your stuff...it's just that both some of the stuff that we have said is true...I know though that just the VIAS removed isn't doing much at all but...I am talking about the full SSIM.
.
Originally Posted by pimpin02max
.I know though that just the VIAS removed isn't doing much at all but...I am talking about the full SSIM.
................................The last sentence from post #48 comes to mind.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
................................The last sentence from post #48 comes to mind.
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Originally Posted by soonerfan
Torque is more important than horsepower
Actually hot rod magazine did an article about this it was called Bore vs stroke. They took 2 engines of the same displacement one with a long stroke (more torque) and one with a larger bore (more hp) and they found that in terms of the quarter mile both cars came out about even.. of course I thought the whole test was stupid as hell because its not that simple at all and for you to make a blanket statement such as the one you've made above makes me wonder about your knowledge base.
If you want to open up the subject in another thread.. I will entertain some banter
Originally Posted by soonerfan
Torque is more important than horsepower
Originally Posted by Stardust
Lies, all lies. Torque wins races
If I wanted a topend monster I would buy a Honduh
If I wanted a topend monster I would buy a Honduh
Actually that is not a lie...sure torque is very important but if you have all that power off of the line and no horsepower to back it up...your screwed, look at like a SN95 Mustang...they have 285 ft/lbs of torque but only 215 horsepower...they run low 15's
Also look at a Honda S2000...like you said they have good top end well an S2000 has 237 horsepower and only 162 ft/lbs of torque...they run low 14's. It isn't all about horsepower but it isn't all about torque either 
It's about a good combination and well with a VQ35 under my hood I will still be torquey with this mod as well as have even better top end.
Torque and horsepower are both very, very important. Torque is the rotational analog of force. It directly determines the amount of force the car exerts on the ground at the wheels. The ground exerts the exact amount of force (assuming the tires do not loose traction) and the car accelerates forward. Horsepower is a measure of an engines ability to do work. AS RPMs increase, torque decreases and hp increases. The engines ability to do work increases and the car will accelerate faster.
At lower engine speed, a greater amount of torque is applied over a short distance (RPM) per unit time (seconds). As engine speed increases, torque decreases, but the engine applies said torque over a much greater distance per unit time. This is why the engine can do more work and the car can accelerate faster.
Both are very very important.
At lower engine speed, a greater amount of torque is applied over a short distance (RPM) per unit time (seconds). As engine speed increases, torque decreases, but the engine applies said torque over a much greater distance per unit time. This is why the engine can do more work and the car can accelerate faster.
Both are very very important.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 547
From: Albany, NY
Originally Posted by Whitebread
Torque and horsepower are both very, very important. Torque is the rotational analog of force. It directly determines the amount of force the car exerts on the ground at the wheels. The ground exerts the exact amount of force (assuming the tires do not loose traction) and the car accelerates forward. Horsepower is a measure of an engines ability to do work. AS RPMs increase, torque decreases and hp increases. The engines ability to do work increases and the car will accelerate faster.
At lower engine speed, a greater amount of torque is applied over a short distance (RPM) per unit time (seconds). As engine speed increases, torque decreases, but the engine applies said torque over a much greater distance per unit time. This is why the engine can do more work and the car can accelerate faster.
Both are very very important.
At lower engine speed, a greater amount of torque is applied over a short distance (RPM) per unit time (seconds). As engine speed increases, torque decreases, but the engine applies said torque over a much greater distance per unit time. This is why the engine can do more work and the car can accelerate faster.
Both are very very important.
j/kEveryone knows that you need torque just as much as HP, but you can't compare to autocrossing to 1/4 spurts. I have never done either of them and I know you cant compare them. You need more torque in auto x-ing because you slow down for corners, accellerate through them at a generally lower speed/rpm so you're not going 45 in 2nd through a 90 turn @ a very high rpm(right? auto x-ers help me out here, I may be wrong) I'd firgure that you want more midrange torque from about 3-4.5k going through a turn to utilize your torque-curve better.
So, as it has been said before, 1/4 mile people might want to do the full mod (gutted IM and removal of the BF valve) but auto x-ers wont.
Originally Posted by bwinter7
Nice I think I've read that manual of engine physics before, that where you copied/pasted from? j/k
Everyone knows that you need torque just as much as HP, but you can't compare to autocrossing to 1/4 spurts. I have never done either of them and I know you cant compare them. You need more torque in auto x-ing because you slow down for corners, accellerate through them at a generally lower speed/rpm so you're not going 45 in 2nd through a 90 turn @ a very high rpm(right? auto x-ers help me out here, I may be wrong) I'd firgure that you want more midrange torque from about 3-4.5k going through a turn to utilize your torque-curve better.
So, as it has been said before, 1/4 mile people might want to do the full mod (gutted IM and removal of the BF valve) but auto x-ers wont.
j/kEveryone knows that you need torque just as much as HP, but you can't compare to autocrossing to 1/4 spurts. I have never done either of them and I know you cant compare them. You need more torque in auto x-ing because you slow down for corners, accellerate through them at a generally lower speed/rpm so you're not going 45 in 2nd through a 90 turn @ a very high rpm(right? auto x-ers help me out here, I may be wrong) I'd firgure that you want more midrange torque from about 3-4.5k going through a turn to utilize your torque-curve better.
So, as it has been said before, 1/4 mile people might want to do the full mod (gutted IM and removal of the BF valve) but auto x-ers wont.
I like just said basically that same thing....read post #111
Originally Posted by bwinter7
Nice I think I've read that manual of engine physics before, that where you copied/pasted from? j/k
Everyone knows that you need torque just as much as HP, but you can't compare to autocrossing to 1/4 spurts. I have never done either of them and I know you cant compare them. You need more torque in auto x-ing because you slow down for corners, accellerate through them at a generally lower speed/rpm so you're not going 45 in 2nd through a 90 turn @ a very high rpm(right? auto x-ers help me out here, I may be wrong) I'd firgure that you want more midrange torque from about 3-4.5k going through a turn to utilize your torque-curve better.
So, as it has been said before, 1/4 mile people might want to do the full mod (gutted IM and removal of the BF valve) but auto x-ers wont.
j/kEveryone knows that you need torque just as much as HP, but you can't compare to autocrossing to 1/4 spurts. I have never done either of them and I know you cant compare them. You need more torque in auto x-ing because you slow down for corners, accellerate through them at a generally lower speed/rpm so you're not going 45 in 2nd through a 90 turn @ a very high rpm(right? auto x-ers help me out here, I may be wrong) I'd firgure that you want more midrange torque from about 3-4.5k going through a turn to utilize your torque-curve better.
So, as it has been said before, 1/4 mile people might want to do the full mod (gutted IM and removal of the BF valve) but auto x-ers wont.
Also, I wasn't trying to make commentary about autoX and drag racing with my first post in this thread. But I will do so now.
I think the reason people say torque is more important in autoX than draging is because of the region the engine operates in. As you stated, auto crossers don't usually drive at high speeds (60+) and are cornering at very low speeds whereas drag racers are WOT the whole way down the track. They shift high and keep the throttle pegged.
What I think you really want in an autoX car is an engine that can do the most work at low engine speeds. Saying torque is more important than horsepower for an autoX engine isn't technically correct. It just so happens that in order to do more work at low engine speeds, you want a car with "more low end torque". The opposite is true for a drag engine. You should be shifting when the engine makes peak HP and unless you have a tranny with wide *** ratios, the engine will only drop a few thousand RPMs. The engine stays in the upper part of its power band; low end performance isn't as important.
Originally Posted by Whitebread
I'm an engineering student focusing on automotive technologies. Understanding the very basics of engine operation is a necessity.
Also, I wasn't trying to make commentary about autoX and drag racing with my first post in this thread. But I will do so now.
I think the reason people say torque is more important in autoX than draging is because of the region the engine operates in. As you stated, auto crossers don't usually drive at high speeds (60+) and are cornering at very low speeds whereas drag racers are WOT the whole way down the track. They shift high and keep the throttle pegged.
What I think you really want in an autoX car is an engine that can do the most work at low engine speeds. Saying torque is more important than horsepower for an autoX engine isn't technically correct. It just so happens that in order to do more work at low engine speeds, you want a car with "more low end torque". The opposite is true for a drag engine. You should be shifting when the engine makes peak HP and unless you have a tranny with wide *** ratios, the engine will only drop a few thousand RPMs. The engine stays in the upper part of its power band; low end performance isn't as important.
Also, I wasn't trying to make commentary about autoX and drag racing with my first post in this thread. But I will do so now.
I think the reason people say torque is more important in autoX than draging is because of the region the engine operates in. As you stated, auto crossers don't usually drive at high speeds (60+) and are cornering at very low speeds whereas drag racers are WOT the whole way down the track. They shift high and keep the throttle pegged.
What I think you really want in an autoX car is an engine that can do the most work at low engine speeds. Saying torque is more important than horsepower for an autoX engine isn't technically correct. It just so happens that in order to do more work at low engine speeds, you want a car with "more low end torque". The opposite is true for a drag engine. You should be shifting when the engine makes peak HP and unless you have a tranny with wide *** ratios, the engine will only drop a few thousand RPMs. The engine stays in the upper part of its power band; low end performance isn't as important.