I have 130K miles on the OEM alternator and my battery and e-brake lights came up at the same time. Doing some reading I understand it is a dying alternator?

I am trying to see if I only have to replace the brushes and there is not many that sell the brushes alone. It either a rebuilt or a new one.

I am leaning towards a new OEM alternator (dealership quoted $280). Any suggestions would help.

 

go to autozone..cheaper than OEM meaning dealer...... they are all the same

 

^ to Duralast alternators... That's the one I went with last summer. Make sure to have them test it before you walk out the door! Mine was DOA and I had to be partially reimbursed (1 install) for my mechanic to put in 2 alts...

 

I like the "limited lifetime" warranty on the Duralast alternators (warranty cannot be transferred to next owner).

Is there any DIY cheetsheet for changing it or it is best replaced by a mechanic, also the relative difficulty on a scale of 10 would help me.

An URL would be most helpful.

 

what is the amps our stock alternators run at?

 

my 2002 Maxima Se is at 93,000 mileage when should I consider to replace my alternator? or would a check engine light show up, and that would be a good indicator?

 

No you won't get a check engine light but when the alt is going (if its going slow) the e brake light comes on periodically even though the brake is fully released. On my 4th Gen the OE alt died at 135k miles. So no there is no set number of miles at which to change it but I would just budget some money aside to get the repair done by your mechanic if you can't/don't want to do the job yourself. Like the others here have said get the lifetime warranty and definitely have the store check it before you pay and walk with it.

 

The e-brake light and battery lights on the dash are directly connected to the o/p of the alternator vs the battery.

The first time you get both of it at the same time it means you are going to replace the alternator in the near future, since the battery isn't getting charged (there is a open circuit from the o/p of alternator to battery).

Luckily mine came and went away (came on when I hit a huge pothole while in Yosemite), I am thinking the brushes have worn out.

 

^+1 My Max alternator died on me on a road trip from Vancouver B.C to Fairfield CA this March. Same thing happened; e-brake, battery lights, then more lights, then nothing. Fun thing to happen at 10:30 pm with my girl and child in the car. Car had about 102,000 miles at the time.

 

Replace it and get a fresh battery, you should be okay after that.

 

The FSM details removing the compressor bolts to get the alternator out.

Is that true, wouldn't the alternator come out by removing its 2 bolts? The last thing I want to do is play with the compressor lines?

 

You don't have to disconnect the compressor lines, but it is a lot easier to make room by "lowering" the compressor for the alternator to be taken out.