New track times, an observation, and a few questions
#1
Well, me and some of my boys went to the track again tonight. I ripped off a 15.87, 15.88, 15.89 and then took a break. lowered tire pressure down to 26 and tore up da track (not literally but for me) with this run:
RT .510 (i'm getting better at this)
60' 2.364 (lowest i've gotten)
1/8 10.23
mph 70.15
1/4 15.812
mph 87.09
Best et, best 60', and best mph. Stock. I don't think i'll be able to take the car any faster stiock, maybe 15.75 if i take the spare and tool box out of the trunk.
Anyway, one run tonight (with my k&n panel filter) had an identical 60' as a run last week (w/ stock filter) so by correcting both runs to standard nhra conditions and comparing i saw definitively (launch, tie psi,weight, and shifting was identical) that a k&n panel filter lowers 1/4 et by 0.09 seconds. I can provide details for both those runs if y'all want to double check me.
And my questions are this... How do i bring my 60' down? I need to get it to about 2.1 or so and I've already got my tires lowered to 26 psi and i'm flashing the TC as best I know how (floor brake at stage, floor gas at first yellow light, release brake at third yellow light). Should I try the spring blockers in my back springs or is there a technique? anythign cheap that will keep my basically stock. And also, does 87.1 mph seem a little fast for a 15.8, i thought i should be more around 85 but i might be wrong. And i think i hit the rev limiter in my 1-2 shift, does this slow you down much and what exactly is our redline? is it 6600 or 6700? Cuz i thought it was 6700 but i've been banging the rev limiter on every 1-2 shift, not bad but i'm shifted right as and it seems like it might be slowing me a bit. I dunno, thanks for reading my long post...
RT .510 (i'm getting better at this)
60' 2.364 (lowest i've gotten)
1/8 10.23
mph 70.15
1/4 15.812
mph 87.09
Best et, best 60', and best mph. Stock. I don't think i'll be able to take the car any faster stiock, maybe 15.75 if i take the spare and tool box out of the trunk.
Anyway, one run tonight (with my k&n panel filter) had an identical 60' as a run last week (w/ stock filter) so by correcting both runs to standard nhra conditions and comparing i saw definitively (launch, tie psi,weight, and shifting was identical) that a k&n panel filter lowers 1/4 et by 0.09 seconds. I can provide details for both those runs if y'all want to double check me.
And my questions are this... How do i bring my 60' down? I need to get it to about 2.1 or so and I've already got my tires lowered to 26 psi and i'm flashing the TC as best I know how (floor brake at stage, floor gas at first yellow light, release brake at third yellow light). Should I try the spring blockers in my back springs or is there a technique? anythign cheap that will keep my basically stock. And also, does 87.1 mph seem a little fast for a 15.8, i thought i should be more around 85 but i might be wrong. And i think i hit the rev limiter in my 1-2 shift, does this slow you down much and what exactly is our redline? is it 6600 or 6700? Cuz i thought it was 6700 but i've been banging the rev limiter on every 1-2 shift, not bad but i'm shifted right as and it seems like it might be slowing me a bit. I dunno, thanks for reading my long post...
#2
Originally posted by Ironlord
...and i'm flashing the TC as best I know how (floor brake at stage, floor gas at first yellow light, release brake at third yellow light).
...and i'm flashing the TC as best I know how (floor brake at stage, floor gas at first yellow light, release brake at third yellow light).
You're loading it up, yes, but flashing it - no.
To flash it what you need to do is release the brake on the 3rd light while simultaneously flooring it. When you start your initial brake torque, DO NOT floor the gas too and immediately load up the TC to its maximum stall speed.
On Accord V6's our maximum stall speed is 2100rpm or so. What we do to get the best launches is to brake torque to 1800rpm or so (full brake, part throttle) and then floor it just as we let off the brake to launch. What happens is that when you floor it just as you let off the inertia from the engine accelerating up to max stall speed allows it to "FLASH" the torque converter momentarily to a higher than normal max stall speed - like 2400rpm or thereabouts. This gives us the very BEST launches.
If you're already full-throttle before you let off the brakes then the engine won't have any extra inertia and it'll end up being a static launch at whatever the Max's max stall speed is. If you simultaneously let off the brake and floor it then you can use the extra intertia from the engine's acceleration to your advantage and get a little better 60' time and ET.
So give that a try
And i think i hit the rev limiter in my 1-2 shift, does this slow you down much and what exactly is our redline? is it 6600 or 6700? Cuz i thought it was 6700 but i've been banging the rev limiter on every 1-2 shift, not bad but i'm shifted right as and it seems like it might be slowing me a bit. I dunno, thanks for reading my long post...
Keep in mind that it's summer now, and temperatures are hotter (it was 97F in Germantown, MD today) so engines are going to be down on power a little bit, and this will effect your time. I think you can correct your time for temperature, though - maybe that's what you already did.
#3
Originally posted by SteVTEC
This isn't exactly what I would call flashing the torque converter.
You're loading it up, yes, but flashing it - no.
To flash it what you need to do is release the brake on the 3rd light while simultaneously flooring it. When you start your initial brake torque, DO NOT floor the gas too and immediately load up the TC to its maximum stall speed.
On Accord V6's our maximum stall speed is 2100rpm or so. What we do to get the best launches is to brake torque to 1800rpm or so (full brake, part throttle) and then floor it just as we let off the brake to launch. What happens is that when you floor it just as you let off the inertia from the engine accelerating up to max stall speed allows it to "FLASH" the torque converter momentarily to a higher than normal max stall speed - like 2400rpm or thereabouts. This gives us the very BEST launches.
If you're already full-throttle before you let off the brakes then the engine won't have any extra inertia and it'll end up being a static launch at whatever the Max's max stall speed is. If you simultaneously let off the brake and floor it then you can use the extra intertia from the engine's acceleration to your advantage and get a little better 60' time and ET.
So give that a try
If you're hitting the rev limiter and still getting 15.8's with your non-optimal launching technique then that's pretty damn good if you ask me. You'll want to time your 1-2 shift such that you still reach redline, but so the tranny shifts BEFORE you hit the rev limiter. I think the rev limiter is like right after your 6500rpm redline - so like 6600rpm I guess?? Time your 1-2 shift so that you hit redline, but not the rev limiter.
Keep in mind that it's summer now, and temperatures are hotter (it was 97F in Germantown, MD today) so engines are going to be down on power a little bit, and this will effect your time. I think you can correct your time for temperature, though - maybe that's what you already did.
This isn't exactly what I would call flashing the torque converter.
You're loading it up, yes, but flashing it - no.
To flash it what you need to do is release the brake on the 3rd light while simultaneously flooring it. When you start your initial brake torque, DO NOT floor the gas too and immediately load up the TC to its maximum stall speed.
On Accord V6's our maximum stall speed is 2100rpm or so. What we do to get the best launches is to brake torque to 1800rpm or so (full brake, part throttle) and then floor it just as we let off the brake to launch. What happens is that when you floor it just as you let off the inertia from the engine accelerating up to max stall speed allows it to "FLASH" the torque converter momentarily to a higher than normal max stall speed - like 2400rpm or thereabouts. This gives us the very BEST launches.
If you're already full-throttle before you let off the brakes then the engine won't have any extra inertia and it'll end up being a static launch at whatever the Max's max stall speed is. If you simultaneously let off the brake and floor it then you can use the extra intertia from the engine's acceleration to your advantage and get a little better 60' time and ET.
So give that a try
If you're hitting the rev limiter and still getting 15.8's with your non-optimal launching technique then that's pretty damn good if you ask me. You'll want to time your 1-2 shift such that you still reach redline, but so the tranny shifts BEFORE you hit the rev limiter. I think the rev limiter is like right after your 6500rpm redline - so like 6600rpm I guess?? Time your 1-2 shift so that you hit redline, but not the rev limiter.
Keep in mind that it's summer now, and temperatures are hotter (it was 97F in Germantown, MD today) so engines are going to be down on power a little bit, and this will effect your time. I think you can correct your time for temperature, though - maybe that's what you already did.
#4
Originally posted by Ironlord
And no, i didn't correct for weather. Using prestage.com car math with the temp at 86 here and barom at 29.9 and humid about 70%, my 15.812@87.09 corrects to 15.7@87.63. That's nice, but i'm not gonna use that as my time since i never really ran that.
And no, i didn't correct for weather. Using prestage.com car math with the temp at 86 here and barom at 29.9 and humid about 70%, my 15.812@87.09 corrects to 15.7@87.63. That's nice, but i'm not gonna use that as my time since i never really ran that.
#7
Those are pretty good times from what I have seen for a stock automagic!
One thing that I would like to try is getting a 15" wheel with a smaller tire for the fronts when I drag. This would provide more tire rotation thus increasing the gear ratio. I think this would definately help you, especially with the auto.
One thing that I would like to try is getting a 15" wheel with a smaller tire for the fronts when I drag. This would provide more tire rotation thus increasing the gear ratio. I think this would definately help you, especially with the auto.
#8
Originally posted by SteVTEC
It's perfectly legit, IMO, to correct for environmental variables like temp, humidity, pressure, and altitude. It's the only way to accurately compare cars when one guy is running in 95F weather and 90% humidity and the other is running at a nice 60F and 30% humidity...
It's perfectly legit, IMO, to correct for environmental variables like temp, humidity, pressure, and altitude. It's the only way to accurately compare cars when one guy is running in 95F weather and 90% humidity and the other is running at a nice 60F and 30% humidity...
#9
Originally posted by madmax2k
I agree with you. But, it does sometimes yield ETs/mphs that the car really cant run. I know that it true in my case as I corrected some runs for MPH and they came out close to 100 mph. (Humidity really effects things.) Theres not way my car will do that.
I agree with you. But, it does sometimes yield ETs/mphs that the car really cant run. I know that it true in my case as I corrected some runs for MPH and they came out close to 100 mph. (Humidity really effects things.) Theres not way my car will do that.
And madmax, you might be able to hit 100 if your 96mph run was really hot and humid, but the weather you need to do that would never happen...
#10
keep all your windows up, pop the hood when your'e waiting in line, and push the car all the way up to the start line then start the motor.. i let out alotta air outa my tires, rolled with the lights off, and all was bone stock.. hit 15.333.. but ppl complain about how i had stripped my interior..i dont consider that as a mod... but now i'll prolly hit 16-17 since i have lotza dead weight in the trunk and larger wheels that weigh tons more. i'll hit the strip again as soon as i get back to the sates.
here's my time slip for reals
http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/timeslip5.jpg
here's my time slip for reals
http://www.geocities.com/wenganator/timeslip5.jpg
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