HELLO MAXIMA Y2K OWNERS I CHANGE MY OIL WHEN IT HIT 3,000 MILES ON IT WITH REGULAR VALVOLINE OIL BUT I WANT TO KNOW THE PEOPLES OPINION ON THE CHANGE IF I GO WITH THE FULLY SYNTHETIC ON MY CAR AND WHATS THE MAJORITY OF THE FORUMS MAXIMA OWNERS USE. THANKS

 

First oil change at 3k miles
i put in castrol gtx 5w 30
second oil change at 5800 miles i changed to mobile 1 synthetic
using the nissan filter

cars been running smooth again
about to hit 9k and getting my third oil change!

dats one damn lucky max

 

Today, I decided to switch oils. I went in to Jiffy Lube and to my surprise I saw a banner for AMSOIL. So, instead of the regular old Pensoil, I've down the switch, which is what a lot of performance oriented individuals have done, an that's swtch over to AMSOIL...5W-30 or 10W-30. It cost me $48.99 for the oil change. Since I'm financing the car, I'll spend a little more on protecting it.

 

get 5w-30

 

DAMN!! $50 for an oil change? That's a bit steep don't you think dude? I don't care if the stuff is used in the space shuttle, no way I can justify spending that much on an oil change. I'd rather put the $35 I save every oil change in a bank account and someday when the Max does die put the $$ towards my next ride. But I can guarantee that I'll be sick of driving it before the motor fails due to wear from using conventional oil. JMO :-)

 

you wouldnt change syn until 6000 miles. and up to 7500 with amsoil. So it actually works out price wise. I think changing dino at 3000 is pretty much equal to a syn 7500 change, unless you are driving under harsh conditions, then the syn would get you alittle more protection over the whole interval.

 

i put in syntec blend for my first change and on my next i plan to go fully synthetic

 

I switched to synthetic at 21K. Kind of late, but better than never. hehe

 

Like the comercial says...If its recommended to put in the expensive performance cars why not treat my car like one...god knows I drive like it is...

 

The Diff. between conv. and full synthetic is.... that the base of the oil will not break down as quickly in high temperatures as conventional will. but for the first 5K miles it's recommended to use conventional because it allows metal parts in the engine..like rings.. pistons and sleeves to seat properly... synthetic doesn't do this very well.... after the first 5K miles you can switch to synthetic to protect you if you drive your engine hard... that is why turbo'd cars have to use full synthetic,, because the speed and temp of the turbine will cook conventional oil...

The reson you change oil is to remove the burnt additives in conventional and to remove any other particles suspended in the oil that the filter did not catch... filters don't filter EVERYTHING....but if you use conv. oil and change it every 3K... you'll be fine... if you use synthetic... and wait till 7500 miles you are asking for trouble... the oil should still be fine... but the particles that are suspended in the oil.... will be build up, the longer you wait... and could damage your engine in the long run... so change your oil frequently and that is the best advice you can get... and if you want added protection against heat.. use synthetic... and in MHO Royal Purple is great for about $4.00 a qt..... I change my Royal Purple every 4,000 miles just so I can offset some of the added cost of fully synthetic... 4000 miles is not a long interval... but it's a nice compromise...

 

here's my standard answer to most car care questions:
"it depends on if you own the car or are leasing it"


i plan on keeping my max for 8-10 years at least. I pay the extra and use synthetic oil, but only change it every 5000 miles. (and check it regularly) I don't need the cheesey sticker on my winshield as a reminder - i just get it changed at 5k intervals on the odo.

 

I feel bad for asking this but do you have any testing data to back up your claim that 7500 miles is bad for either synthetics or Petro oil? Shing tested his Mobil 1, oil at 7500 and tests showed his oil was in perfect condition. And Mobil is not even marketed for extended drain intervals. I could go in but it's all in the search feature. I would rather read your data.

 

I don't have data.. I could look it up.. but don't remmember where I read it.. I think road & track Magazine.. anyways....the oil does not ever go bad... actually the base does not go bad... it's the additives that get worn and burnt... and even those last for a while... but small particles.. and I AM talking small... get into the oil... think about it.... does your air filter, filter out everything? No!... small particles pass throug the air filter, into the combistion chamber.. and do you think the oil rings are air tight? NO... small marticles get through the rings and a bit of air fuel mixture.. but that gets recirculated back into the intake manifold... but the paricles collect in the oil... also very small metal particles from the rings, sleeves and other metal components get into the oil.. this is not harmfull if the oil is changed on a frequent interval.. but if you let it sit for 7500 miles.. you are taking chances

 

One of the main functions of engine oil is lubrication, coolant and suspension. If the particle is that small to pass though the oil filter, it's being kept in suspension by the oil. Thus not contacting any other metal. This is where a oil like Amsoil shines. Their film strength(ability to avoid metal to metal contact) is far superior to reg oils. Think about it, if the oil cannot keep very small particles in suspension, what is keeping the various metals from contacting each other?? Amsoil (http://www.amsoil.com/products/atm.html)clearly stipulates their oil can last for 25,000 miles or one year if you use their oil filters(change them at 12,500 miles) How can a maker clearly claim such a claim and still be going strong since the 1970's??

 

if any of you are interested:
(You may have to just search for my username to see the actual post.)

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