ManualMaxima

iTrader: (10)

My max just got the "power steering hose blues" at 237,000. Thanks for all who've posted in this thread as I read every post before replacing it tonight. All went well as my car never sees snow and salt and everything broke loose pretty easily. That middle bracket (as others have mentioned) was a PITA, and just ended up zip tying it. Got a OEM hose from a you-pull-it salvage yard for $6.50 and had many to choose from. It was def not the original hose to the the donor car as it was pristine. Did the dead / live bleed and didn't hear a peep from the pump after about 5-seconds. All is well. Thanks all...

Superfly99

Thanks for the replies guys. Does anyone know from first hand experience if a hose made for an american maxima will suit an australian build?

airbeat

Here was my process: My 2002 Maxima just hit 152k miles.

1) Bought the hose from Advance Auto Parts for $122. The part was a "Carquest" part, came with the two crush washers, and looks like the one-piece Edelman part. It was in stock, and I didn't want to wait on Rock Auto/Nissan.
2) Spent the next 4 hours reading the prior 11 pages of posts.
3) Got the front of the car up on jack stands--as high as I could get them, Removed the passenger wheel/tire. Turned the wheels all the way to the left.
4) Sprayed PB Blaster on the 5 bolts accessible from under the hood: the 10mm bolt halfway down the hose, the 14mm brass bolt on the left of the hose at the top mount, the two 10mm bolts on rubber mounts at the top, and the large sensor bolt with wiring.
5) Crawled under the car where I removed the tire, sprayed PB Blaster on the large "Banjo" bolt on the bottom end of the hose.
6) Waited overnight.
7) In the AM, broke the Banjo bolt loose with a ratchet wrench with a 15/16 spark plug socket and the bar from my jack. Then I was able to loosen. Had a drip pan ready to catch what was left of the PS Fluid (which wasn't much--thanks to the leak).
8) Gave it about 15 minutes to drain, then I went back out and removed the banjo bolt the rest of the way.
9) Back up on top, I used an adjustable wrench to break loose the 14mm brass bolt, and a pair of vise grips on the metal part of the hose to hold it in place while I broke the bolt loose. Keep in mind that the top of this hose is mounted on two rubber mounts, so you need something to hold it in place on several of these bolts on top--just so you have leverage.
10) Broke loose the large sensor bolt, removed the wiring by pulling up the tab and sliding it off.
11) Removed the 10mm bolts on the rubber mounts on top, and loosened the other bolts on top the rest of the way.
12) Now that the top was free, I could bend the top of the hose back enough to get to the 10mm bolt halfway down the hose. Used a ratchet on that to loosen the bolt (not the "nut shaped" mount that it bolts into.)
13) Removed the entire hose--couldn't believe how much fluid had soaked into the foam rubber.
14) Put the new hose in from the top. Grabbed a bungie cord to suspend the hose at about the right spot. Pretty loosely hanging there.
15) climbed under the car with the banjo bolt and the two washers. Put one washer over the bolt, put the bolt through the bottom hole on the hose, and put the other washer on after that.
16) Fought that damn thing for a few minutes to get the orientation right. I found it helpful to remove the bolt (taking care not to lose the second washer) a few times, so that I could see how it was oriented to thread properly into the hole without the cable. Then tried it again with the hose. Finally got it. Hand tightened it for now.
17) Back on top of the car, transferred the rubber mounts over to the new hose, got those 10mm bolts started.
18) got the 14mm brass fitting started on the left.
19) got the sensor fitting back on.
20) tightened everything down, up above and below the car. Plugged the sensor wiring back in.
21) ran a zip tie through the mid hose mount hole, and zipped it up. The old rubber gasket was too small to fit back around the heat wrap on the new hose. Cut off the extra zip tie piece once it was tight.
22) added Dexron VI ATF fluid to the PT reservoir up to the cold max line.
23) while the car was still up in the air, turned the key to ACC so that I could turn the wheel with the engine off. Turned the wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right for a few minutes.
24) climbed out and looked at the level of fluid--couldn't believe how far down it went. Filled it back up to Cold Max line.
25) with the engine still off, I turned the wheel left and right again for another minute or two.
26) Filled the fluid back up to cold max again.
27) With the car still in the air, I started the engine, and repeated the wheel turning procedure for a few minutes.
28) Checked the fluid level--I may have added just a touch more here.
29) Repeated the wheel turning procedure again, then turned the car off.
30) Put the wheel back on, closed the hood. Lowered the car.
31) Drove to car wash to rinse the fluid from the leak off of the bottom of the car as best I could (without soap). Then I washed my baby. (That's optional, but recommended.)

That's it! I did not use the OEM part, I used Dexron VI ATF, no buzzing or noises at all with the "carquest" part, and smooth steering. No leaks of course either.

Most of my time was spent reading posts, the rest of it was probably an hour or an hour and half to do the work. I took my time.

Again, thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing their experiences and allowing me to stand on the shoulders of giants! Good luck to anyone else that does this--read up, take your time, and you can save yourself several hundred dollars! You can even use this as an excuse to get some new tools, as you're saving so much money. :-)

tech2000

The same thing happened to me i decided i would go with a custom p/w delete, I don't have to worry about it anymore i don't need it.

Donkeypunch

Where can I find new washers because I lost mine.

airbeat

I believe you're looking for Nissan Part No.: 49726-Y0100

Should be able to find them online from lots of places, or at your dealer--I see them at: http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...726-y0100.html

Good luck!

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Go to napa or wherever that carries decent little things and match one up with the hose. It's just a plain ol copper washer.
You can also get assortment packs. Something will fit.

KEhrhardt

Did my daughters Max today, 132K 03 GLE. After removing the OEM PS pressure hose, it appears the upper fitting was leaking and accumulating under the rubber sleeve. I have no doubt the upper part of the hose could have been rebuilt by a radiator repair shop, as there were no leaks at the bottom of the hose by the banjo bolt. Anyhow, replaced it with the Duralast 92037 from AutoZone. Pretty easy overall, just used the zip tie instead of the bolt that holds the bracket. Dry bled, turned wheels lock to lock with pump running, refilled reservoir. Changed oil and filter while I had the passenger wheel off. Another one on the road.

Mike Jenne

Did my 01 GLE today with a hose I picked up at the local Napa store. I found getting the banjo bolt back in quite tough, but to make things a little easier I assembled the bolt + washer + hose + washer and then but a little "squeeze" on the outer washer. Just enough to hold it in place so that I could focus on threading the bolt in, and not worrying about a washer falling off in the process.

Thanks to all those that posted their experience with this repair, it really makes a difference.

Now I'm off to address this damned P0430 code.

MJ

mclasser

I guess with the cooler temps, my hose finally decided to take a dump. Had been leaking for some time but not enough to drop the reservoir level much. The car is whining like mad and the steering wheel is difficult to turn. I don't have the patience or time to DIY so I'm going to get quotes from local import shops familiar with this common Nissan issue.

Hopefully I don't get hosed on labor.

redrock5432

Based on this forum's users, expect $200 or more for dealer charge. Rockauto has EDELMANN hose for about 62 before taxes and shipping.

Hope all goes well.

maximatech12

I snapped a shot of the old hose sliced open.



HPPS hose - Nissan Maxima

mclasser

After parking the I35 for a few weeks, I finally took it in the other day. Shop put in an Edelmann hose for $275. Glad to have a functional car again

blnewt

Bumping an older thread to say thanks for the info, and to jump on the site
Bought a 2000 Max GLE w/ a 100k miles a year ago and have had to address a few things to get it back to what I'm hoping will be a reliable cruiser for another 100k.

DIY all my work thus far~
~Water pump (not much fun, about 4 hours and a few choice words thrown in)
~Radiator and upper aluminum water port (rotted through in several places under the hose mating area and had to JB weld and smooth that area to get it back to acceptable).
~Four new struts, re-used springs, but took front springs to shop to swap the springs, didn't want to die trying to compress those
~Alternator, should have been much easier but that upper bolt on the inside was such a PITA!
~Spark Plugs, nice to see the originals looked so good!
~And now the Power Steering Pressure line, took about 1.5 hours, only hiccup was trying to get that sensor switch off, that damn bolt head is right between a 18mm & 19mm (or both my 19mm open wrenches are a 1/2mm sloppy)
I ended up using a 17mm wedged between the hood support strut and the firewall holding that hose union, and a channel lock with a huge box end wrench that wrapped over the channel lock handles to keep it tight as I used the box wrench end leverage to break that bastard , that banjo bolt was simple to break free and re-install, luckily this Max never saw much winter crud so bolts break pretty easy (except for that pressure switch), lol.

Hopefully that's it for a while, have a main seal that seems to have a very small drip, added a bottle of Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer, and seems to be working thus far.

Excellent site, have used it quite a bit already and great to have such a comprehensive & helpful resource!

I30T 2000

The high pressure PS hose on my 2000 i30 began leaking at about 175K miles.

As others have found, the leak was near the top, just under the the top of rubber 'cushion' that goes over the upper part of the hose. My leak was on the backside of the hose, facing the firewall. Because of the rubber cushion, it was not immediately obvious where it was leaking from. Turning steering lock-to-lock (engine running) while a friend had the cushion pulled back, quickly revealed the squirting leak.

Some things I observed that might be helpful to others:
- Airbeat's numbered process above was very helpful. It's a good, but not quite perfect, summary of all the other how-to posts.
- The retaining bolt mid-way down the back of the engine is very hard to get to with my big hands. After struggling to reach it with other hoses in the way, I discovered that it's A PHILIPS HEAD bolt. It was easier to reach and unscrew with a stubby Philips screwdriver than with a socket & ratchet. (I'm going to zip tie it back on - no need to wrestle with that silly bolt and bracket.)
- The flare nut (to the left of the pressure sensor) comes loose quickly, but as you're backing it out, the threads get tight again. I had to use a pair of wrenches and some force to get the last half of the threads out.
- The pressure sensor costs over $50 for a non-OEM part, so it's worth trying to save.
- I thought that the ideal fix for this would be to bring the old hose assembly to a hydraulic hose shop and have the hose replaced using the factory fittings. However, I learned that 1) No one in my area does this type of repair on power steering hoses any more; and 2) When they used to do it, they charged $90. That's not much savings off a new non-OEM replacement.
- The guy who used to do these hose repairs told me that the OEM hose is a one piece unit, with a tightening collar built into the middle of the hose for 'pressure regulation'. (That tightening collar is where the bracket attaches the hose to the block - if you choose to put it back on.)
- As others have said, the banjo bolt takes a 24 mm socket. And yes, your vocabulary will get a workout getting it back on. I finally asked my very patient wife to work the upper end of the hose - 'turn it clockwise a quarter turn', 'move your end toward the fender', 'now move it back 1/2 inch', 'now lower it just a smidgen', etc., etc. All while I was wrestling underneath, dropping and recovering the 2nd washer many times.
- The old copper washers can be softened by annealing, then re-used. Basically, get them really hot, such as with a gas stove or a torch, then let 'em cool slowly. This softens them up. At the rate I was dropping washers, it was good to have extras within easy reach. (The new hose from NAPA came with two new washers.)

Thanks to the Forum for all the past posts on this messy topic. Couldn't have done it without you.

kyldishgambino

Just found out I've got the same problem.. just happened at 141k miles ... rip 600 bucks

cdoublejj

WTF? you'd be a moron to spend that kind of money for a hose when an upgraded hose is like $25-40, even with Labor.

kyldishgambino

Trying to hit my 15 post quota so i can post a thread asking my questions about it so I can DIY

cdoublejj

there are plenty of threads you can try search for. the searching might not be the best and some links are broken in older threads though. there is fairly simple process once the parts are swapped. i ran as many air bubbles out of the system withe car off before starting it by running the steering wheel back forth while jacked for 2 or 3 songs worth of time, started it for a few, then repeated. other wise air trapped in the system makes noises. ebay has the better aftermarket metal hoses. other wise i guess i feel free to ask in here?

kyldishgambino

I've got this old 2002 Maxima,142k miles on it and just recently, the power steering fluid started leaking out quite quickly. Took it into Midas and was quoted the following:

Power Steering Hose:Low-High Pressure: Remove and Replace
Reason: Leaking Part #365820
Price: 348.00, labor 256.99

Power Steering Pump: Remove and Replace
Reason: Close to end of useful life Part # 21-5933 REMAN PUMP W/O RESVR
Price: 436.99 Labor 259.99

My dad and and a car-savvy friend both interpreted "close to end of useful life" as not broken yet and not necessary to replace. My thought is that I will replace the power steering hose myself and see if I can get some more life out of her. On rock auto i'm seeing hoses for only $40-50 which is quite attractive compared to the 348 i was quoted... but how do I know which hose I need to replace? Does "Low-High pressure" tell me? If so- can anyone direct to a hose that they know will fit an 02 maxima?

or do i need to go back to Midas and beg them to tell me which hose it is?

My buddy is confident he can help me replace the hose, and worst case his dad will step in and save the day (they've got ramps, clamps, and all the tools) , so we're gonna give it a shot ourselves because $100 sounds a lot better to me than $700. I'm looking for any advice anyone may have on how to tackle this issue.

I also was told I need to degrease my engine since it is soaked in PS fluid. My online research directed me to Purple Power and a garden hose. Will that be sufficient? Would love any suggestions as to how to go about this as well.

freezer

If it's the high pressure hose, (better get in there and look for yourself) you will likely be disappointed with the lifespan of an aftermarket replacement. However, it could last as long you need it to fit a car of this vintage.

OEM is proven to be better but my are they expensive. Could always grab a wrecker part

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

cheap and easy to replace

kyldishgambino

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Yes, that's why I linked it.

MichMaxFan

Is this a non-whiner hose?

redrock5432

here are some parts choices on ebay.com https://ebay.to/2QASD0M
the noise in hoses in mostly due to air present in pump and high pressure circuit. read forums for process to purge air, before and after starting engine/pump. Also, check that the hose is not touching other parts of car metal as this will transmit and amplify any sounds from hose to car body. good luck.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I have used it myself.

kyldishgambino

Gotcha, sorry- i'm just so far from an expert... does anyone have experience with degreasing an engine? Will purple power and a **** load of water do the trick?

Update:
Part came in today, will I need to order new crush washers as well? Can I get them at any store or do I need specific ones??

DPenfield

How do you get this off?

I have a 24 and I don't know what I'm supposed to do aside from turning it and it's not going anywhere that pen that seems to be coming from the bottom of it with the bracket in front of it do I need to get rid of that

redrock5432

@@DPenfield
do the pictures in this post help? previous post. see 2nd picture.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

1/2" breaker bar with a 24mm socket....Remove the wheel, the splash shields, and any heat shields for the most clearance. My breaker bar is 32-34" long it was easy! Once you get it off put the bottom on first!

EmmasDad

To Everyone Who Has Been Kind Enough to Post on This Forum for the Benefit of Others,

I'm very late to this game, but just wanted to post my thoughts. My daughter inherited my father's 2003 Maxima last year with 160K miles. I'm 3/4 of the way through two major repairs. The first was an alternator replacement. I followed the instructions from a YouTube video by Helping Hand. He replaces the alternator (without removing the radiator) by accessing the alternator from the side (front right cover). Everything went swimmingly until removal of the final (long) bolt. I just couldn't break the nut loose and ended up removing the belt tensioner and the crankshaft pulley so that I could cut the nut off with a grinder. While I was down there, I decided to replace the High Pressure Power Steering Hose which was also leaking. Again, everything went smoothly, including top and bottom hose connections, until the last connection (the mid-way clamp/bracket which holds the hose to the engine). It's horribly located, poorly oriented and incredibly over-designed for a product that is sure to be replaced at least once during the lifetime of the car. (If a bracket can be easily replaced with a plastic tie-wrap, it's over engineered!)
Please bear with me because I just need to vent my frustration.... And I say this as a former early 1990's Maxima owner, but after working on this 2003 model, I would never purchase or even consider purchasing a Nissan product ever again... I don't know if it's **** poor engineering or financial constraints on engineering by bean counters, but there are so many poorly designed parts on this car that I rather pay extra for the quality of a Toyota than to ever have to deal with the headaches of a Nissan product again. (By the way, I am the owner of a 2008 Toyota Camry Hybrid that has 270K trouble-free miles on it AND I am a chemical engineer who has done as much mechanical engineering as chemical engineering in his career.)
The Maxima may be a fun car to drive but it isn't worth the headache. It's right up there with BMW products.

None of this is going to matter in the long-run because electrical cars won't be as complex, but that doesn't excuse this level of engineering incompetence. I know that it's easy to point fingers after the fact, but these guys were professionals and were paid money for their design work. I guess at Nissan, the designers get a zero-deductible, lifetime warranty in addition to their company discount because they obviously don't do their own maintenance on them.

slvr2KSE5

I don't know how best to say this.

Neither of those jobs are difficult at all. Maybe just above your skill level.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

He thinks EVs aren't complex LMFAO.

Buddy, you can take apart a maxima to bare chassis with a basic set of wrenches and a couple socket sets. It's gonna take you longer to replace any major component (which is just about everything given the integration and disposable engineering LOL) on a pos EV than it does for me to swap a VQ by myself. Technically, you're correct. EVs will all be sent to junkyard outside of warranty. Buying another isn't complex.

You have a serious skill issue. Not much is easier than alternator on FWD VQ. PS hose bracket is easy, too. IIRC, I just used a longer bolt, so it was easy to thread in and held it by long need nose. I have giant hands, too.
What does replacing wear items have to do with BMW reliability? OEM alternators usually last to about 200k (although I've seen em go north of 250 no problem) and the hose leaks around 150K+. Toyotas of the era have leaking PS hoses, too. SHOCKER!
Your hybrid has electric PS and doesn't look to be that reliable based on a google search.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

could this be an AI bot ??? either way , thanks for the responses slvr and koRn, I didn't know how to reply to this.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

It makes sense to complain about the cats or something else severe and common, but a hose and alternator? Cmon lol. And I suspect VC leak onto alternator for the early failure (or AZ heat lol)... Edit: I just noticed he is in AZ ha

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

exactly! lol then saying EV cars are less complex... was the nail in the coffin...