"Cavitation"... i've got my word of the day.

 

FWIW, the ONLY time I really get it is during the initial turning of the wheel, be it pulling out of the garage or parking space. I guess after a few minutes the PS fluid warms up. That would seem to back up the speculation that it is something to do with the diameter of the hose. Once warmed up the oil would be thinner and therefore move more easily through the narrower hose.

 

If that theory about the warmed up power steering fluid was true, then you shouldn't hear any noise when you move your steering wheel while parking your car after a decent drive; at that point the fluid should be pretty hot.
I think the noise is always there. You can't hear it when you're moving because it is just drowned by road and/or engine noises.

EDIT: I drove today a car just like mine, with a power steering hose just like mine, and there is definitely no noise at all. I guess I'll look into following the bleeding instructions on the Edlemann package, as noted by nismopc a few posts above.

 

I just completed changing out the hose.

I did the bleed without the engine turned on for about 5-7 minutes and was surprised how much air was really in the system. When the air bubbles finally stopped after about 6 minutes, I noticed the fluid level had gone down from the "Hot Max" mark to just below "Cold Min".

I then added in extra Dex III and did the bleed with the engine on.

I'm happy to report that I have no noise at all . I did not remove the other hose from the pump nor use the cap that came with the hose pkg from rockauto.

Folks who do have the noise might just need to bleed again or try a flush?

 

Did you have the car raised or on the ground while doing the bleeding? (Maybe I wasn't patient enough when I did mine and need to re-do it).

 

Did both with the car raised.

 

Thanks.

 

Just reporting back...
I do have a tiny bit of whine in the morning ... but....
1. you dont hear it once my 200K plus old compressor turns on...
2. you dont hear it once the AC blower in the car is at speed 2...
3. you dont hear it once the car is moving over say 10mph....
4. the pitch of the whine does not change if you turn the wheel lock to lock or hold it at the full lock position.

Is this the whine others have experienced? or is it audible over the above scenarios?

 

Well mine has been seeping for a while now but now it looks like it's getting worse. Just bought the Edelman part off of Rock Auto. BTW thanks to the ORG for pointing that one out, it saved me close to $40 for the same part at O'Reily or Autozone. With any luck I hope to be taking care of this this coming weekend.

For the info seekers:
2002 Maxima AT
139724 miles
Rock Auto part #92037 Price $62.79

 

I caved on this one and got a local shop to do it. The part was $119.99 before tax at Napa. I was charged $160 for labor. I'm glad they couldn't get the part. They were going to charge me $470 for parts and labor! So as you can see, I came out a little ahead (for not doing it myself).

 

I have now joined the crew I need my high pressure hose replaced. This request may sound silly, but my dad wants to replace the hose for me is there a diagram available and maybe some instructions?

 

Mine went out on Friday, 4+ hours from home. Gorilla Tape and a bottle of ATF fluid got me home last night. Picked up an OEM hose from a friend/parts manager at Nissan yesterday and hope to get it replaced by Harjit this weekend in Long Island.

 

Don't make the same mistake as me. Make sure that the old brass crush washer is removed and that the new washer is installed on the correct side of the banjo fitting.

 

Good to know. My friend gave me two washers with the hose so I will make sure they are replaced.

 

Well thanks to this for I was able to complete this in about 2.5 hours which includes two trips to the car wash to wash to car before and after. I must say it was a little intimidating at first but what the hell you only live once.

I just followed the directions from others here on the form and did exactly what others recommended and now NO LEAKS!!! Thanks guys for the details on this replacement. Couldna done it without ya.

Picked up my parts via Grubbs Nissan near Ft. Worth for $175.00 with the two copper washers. Decided to use the OEM to eliminate the whining sounds and it worked like a charm.

 

Working on it...

 

bought a OEM one also, didn't want to risk having another blown hose with the aluminum aftermarket part. Is there a common place where the hose breaks? My mech threw away the hose, so I didnt get a chance to check. $50 labor for replacing the hose!

 

Yes, they mostly seem to break near the top on the rubber right past the metal clamp. General diagnosis is to "peel back the foam" and the crack is usually then visible.

 

Anyone have the parts number for the high pressure hose?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[49720]+\%28A33B&cPath=1956_1957_2061_2069

 

Rock auto .com has the part for about 80$ plus shipping fees. If you order more parts it is worth the shipping cost.

 

49726-Y0100. Im about to take on the job myself @ 175,000.

 

Anyone in the DFW area, preferably Plano, want to help me get this sucker replaced? I will buy the OEM part, but I don't have the tools to do it myself...dealer quoted me a cool $290 just for LABOR, a mechanic close to the house quoted $250 for LABOR...or maybe someone knows a local mechanic that will do it for at least a little less than the two above? Thanks alot. Thomas 2003 SE 124k.

 

I am going to attempt to replace mine as soon as the part comes in from amazon.com I also live in Plano. So I will help you out if it turns out to be an easy job for me.

 

133k here just went out on me. Knock on wood my 95 max has 264k and no issues.
4th > 5.5

 

Just replaced mine ...109000 miles........lonnnngg overdue ....it wasn't that hard actually....took me 2 hours from the time I started jacking up the car to the time I put it down.

I had asked my mom to bring my jack stands and she just stayed with me so she was actually the person who held and moved the hose about so that I could like up the 24mm bolt.

I got the part from rockauto..the Gates brand for 116$ after shipping

The order that I did mine was

- take wheel off
- take out 24mm bolt...allow fluid to run out
- remove 10mm bolt+ bracket ( this isn't too bad to get off, because the bolt is so short its hard to get on)
- remove 2 10mm bolts
- remove the nut that's attached to that metal line ( this is a bit annoying to I used an adjustable wrench )
- take off the sensor ( adjustable wrench again )

***replacing procedure **

- line up the 24mm bolt..and hand tighten
-10 mm bracket
-2 10 mm bolts
- sensor
- other nut attached to metal line
- tighten everything and fill up



I didn't hear any whining or anything significantly louder than engine idle so I'm gonna see what it sounds like in the morning when I go to work

 

My return hose lasted 140,000 mile, then replace with bulk hose. At 143,000 miles, the high pressure hose started to leak at the crimp. It seems like all the hoses may need replacing (suction: reservior to pump) which is about $55 without the discount and shipping. How long do the suction hoses last?

On getting higher pressure rated hose" PS HP hoses also have some give to dampen the pressure pulses. I think the Gates high pressure hose is a direct OEM replacement and the hose has dampen effect. The cheapest Gates is Amazon $35 (at least this week) vs Autohausaz for $55 at least for the 3rd generation. You need to look up the hose model at Gates because the hose size is sometimes wrong at Amazon site. I used bulk hose for one of the bend to the cooler and the other 3/8" right angle hoses needed an Omega #3954 WorldPac nom3954 $6. A true 10mm would of been easier to fit. Took lots of force to get the 3/8" on the fitting. If the fitting are good, the old hose can removed and replaced at a hydraulic hose shop. Cost varies $50 to $70 is fair range.

By the way, the double wire Nissan hose clamps are much supperior to the standard US stainless worm drive clamps. The Nissan wire ones can be used on Fuel hoses, thin metal tubing and on gentle silicone hoses.

Any place to get a really good discount for the Nissan suction hose or just use a bulk hose? Which brand and model to make the sharp bends? Most suction hoses are 3/4" instead of 5/8" i.d.

The above are MHO on the 3rd generation but hose size may not apply to 5th generation.

I got the air out of my system by full turns right and left. Repeating it 5 times.

OnTheRoad.

 

Thanks Maxterror and OnTheRoad for your input and instructions. It's a much appreciated addition to this thread. I'm in need of this replacement as well, and thankfully, everyone has added their advice on here. I didn't think it would be that difficult before reading this thread, but now I know what exactly to do to make it easier. Thanks to all that have contributed.

 

I have a question. Would it be easier instead of doing the bleeding process to just buy a new reservoir, pump, and both hoses. The pump on www.importrp.com is like 108$ bucks. But I don't want the dealer to charge me like $300-400 dollars just to replace the 1 hose when I can replace it all and be happy with it for the next 10 years. Knowing that the probability of something going wrong again in the power steering department would be slim to none.

 

...Doing the bleeding process is way easier than doing what you listed.

 

Yea but what about installing it without making it squeal. I just don't want to fix it and it end up squealing. After reading this thread I might take it to the dealer. I had a 1997 Buick park avenue Ultra supercharged one time and it had the most annoying squealing that I could never get rid of. I DO NOT WANT that to happen again.

 

Sorry to have to chime in with the obvious answer here but doing the bleeding process would still be a part of replacing all of what you listed. Anytime air gets into the line you are going to have to bleed so whether you replaced one part or all the parts you would have to do it. Back to only replacing that which is broken.

 

I'm gonna be replacing this on my own. I think I figured it out. But uhhh....Does anybody know where I can get the Direct OEM replacement?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...2061_2069.html

 

Hey Guys I've read all pages of this thread and I have to say it is extremely helpful. My questions is this: I've had this slow leak for about 6 months now (00 maxima with 181K). I fill up the reservoir about once every 2 weeks or so and it only leaks under high pressure when I turn the wheel all the way to the right or left. I'm getting ready to drive across the country in a couple of weeks; do you think it would be okay to do the drive with the leak or should I replace it before? What's the worst that can happen?

 

The worst that can happen? You blow the power steering hose in the middle of no where and have to put up with heavy steering and the power steering pump whining. You'll have to replace the hose and pump at that point.

Just get the hose done and enoy the peace of mind.

 

The fluid likes to eat away at control arm bushings too.

 

Replace it. It's going to go eventually so replace it with a local mechanic that you trust, or do it yourself if you have the skills.

 

When replacing my bushings and links I noticed signs of a power steering leak. I don't know if its a current leak or one fixed by the previous owner. Will have to look into this. I will probably have the house rebuilt at a hydraulic shop with some heavy duty stuff. It will be cheaper for me than importing the part.

 

Just did mine, not sure why anyone would really remove the wheel or the inner fender well or .....anything else for that matter. Took about 30-45 mins with my bro in law. Its really 5 bolts...nothing more.

What sux is we noticed when I pulled out to get air out of the system... we somehow dropped one of the brass o rings...so we will have to pull that bolt out one more time and put that one in so there are no future leaks. but as of now it is not leaking at all. Or is there only 1 crush washer?? If so we are golden lol. He did all the work down low and I did the work up top

Very simple job...the hardest part honestly was the damn engine bracket in the middle..major PITA to get to fit right lol