I had a BIG leak and no noise, and now I have NO leak and big noise (after the hose replacement, of course).

 

If you are absolutely certain that you do not have any leaks (all the connections of the entire power steering are tight and completely dry, with no oily residue), then you might benefit from performing the air bleed procedure again.

 

Hey guys just replaced the PS pressure is one the duralast one from autozone. Did the dead/live bleed and no leaks no buzzing sounds. Wanna say it was a PITA to get the banjo bolt back in but I got it back in lol

 

This may be a stupid question, but will the Edelmann hose part# 92037 work for a 2003? It states it is for 1999-2001. I just want to make sure before ordering and taking on the job. Thanks.

 

Hello all. I just finished replacing my hose with oem part. I also did the dead/live bleed and just wanted to add that i needed to add quite a bit of fluid to the reservoire. I spent about 20 min. back and forth with the wheel until the fluid level no longer decreased then turned the engine on with the car still up on the jacks. Again fluid level dropped by about half and had to add more. It took more than one bottle! I havn't heard any noises at all and the car turns very nicely! Thanks for all of the helpful comments!!

 

gah!! just noticed some red fluid under my engine above the oil filter ..

yup , i saw the banjo bolt with red fluid ...


i guess i am going to be doing this in the next few weeks ..

So the edelman is fine then?

 

does anyone no of a write up to replacing the hose?

 

Read the five pages here, I'm sure someone posted a quick how-to for replacing this hose.

 

I just replaced the hose on my 2003 Maxima SE. 236,000 kms (147,000 mi) It was leaking for about 3 weeks. I'm in Canada so at the Dealer it cost $449.00. I ordered from Auto Parts store, arrived the next day $160.00 and it's the Edelmann replacement. I followed the directions that were posted on this stream and thankfully most of the directions are right on. When I opened the banjo bolt and it started to bleed out, I placed the oil pan under it, went and had a coffee. When I came back it was finished and all the oil was in the pan. I went through the weel well with the tire off and instead of my rachet, I opted for a breaker bar. Loosened no problem. I used a swivel head spark plug rachet to remove the bracket bolt a it was quite easy.
Replacing the hose, I fed the hose from the top to the bottom and realized what a PITA it was going to be get the hose to the right position as it didn't want to co-operate. Came up with this idea and made it easy. I took a piece of wire and used it to suspend the hose. (the metal tab used to hold the hood insulation in place). With the hose now being able to twist right and left or adjust up and down the bolt was in no time at all. The total job took me 40 minutes coffee time included. I did the dry bleed on stands and then started it and finished topping it up. Happy to report no leaks and no noise.

 

What finally fixed the groaning on turns ('00 SE) was installing OEM Nissan high pressure hose. The aftermarket previously installed, not sure of the brand, was causing the noise. It was bled and no leaks, still didn't get rid of the noise. Mechanic gave adjustment for the cost of the OEM. It looks like some aftermarkets flow less oil or whatever. Just stick with aftermarkets recommended here.

 

Still no noise from the Edelmann repalcement hose. Maybe the 2003 is a little different that earlier models. I notice from some of the photos posted that the sensor certainly is different.

 

wow this thread has been going on for about 4 years!!!!

Anyways, I'm having the same leak with my car. I know for sure it's the high ps hose. I've got a 2001 I30 now. I'm wondering if my 2001 i30 is much different from the 5th gen maximas.
I'm gonna have to start the repair once I come back from my vacation on friday. Before I left for the coast, I left a coffee can under my car. When I get back we'll see how much fluid has leaked out of my car. Either way I don't really have to wait that long to drain the system when I start on it.

 

Post some pictures of that replacement hose please! The brand from O'Rielly was all all aluminum and I wasn't interested is that either..... not for $115 and I could get an Oem with the bracket, the pressure switch and a part that's gonna last atleast 8 years.......

 

When it leaks out, you may not see everthing in the can because the wrap works like a sponge. I couldn't believe how much was in the wrap.

 

I will see if I can get some photo's posted. It is installed however if you look it up on ebay you can see what the hose looks like. I have kept the original hose and took it into a local High Pressure Hose Dealer and they can replace the original hose using the original fittings. Therefore you would only need to find the Copper washers. Still no noise on my pump.

 

I have Edelmann. I am pretty sure I have the noise. Problem is the hose was already majorly busted when I bought it so I never knew what "OEM" should sound like. It was busted hose, leak everywhere, fill it up, for a few days until I got the replacement. Basically that same whinging noise that gets worse the harder your turn the wheel, especially when not moving. Personally I don't think it's that bad and it doesn't bother me a ton, I am just relatively sure that originally it didn't groan like that. I followed the directions to the letter as far as bleeding and doing the wheel turning system. A couple people have raised good points about the life of the car and if you averaged 100K per OEM hose you would probably only do the hose twice, rarely three times in the life of the car. In hindsight I might have gone OEM but I very much mangled the flange bit so that will have to be replaced next time which makes me glad I chose the hose that people at least say lasts longer.

Here are pics of it installed. In the second pic you can see the state of the flange and why I really hope this hose lasts for the life of the car.

 

oh hell powersterring for pussies, ya dont need it.

 

Love this thread! It was a pain of sorts. Easy to remove, hard to put back. Not a lot of room to maneuver. Used tools mentioned in other comments. Thanks for that! Word of advice: reassemble from the bottom up. The banjo bolt is a biatch to put back last because the bottom of hose is a stiffy. Something else i learned from other comments, AFTER THE FACT: remove wheel well panel if possible. easier to get to the banjo. Peace!

 

So I noticed the whining sound when turning the steering wheel for the past week but just keep ignoring it. No loss in steering power/ability.
Long story short today I checked the power steering reservoir and noticed it is almost empty. Checked around the passenger side of the car and noticed some fluid which has leaked.
So seems like the power steering fluid is leaking.

I have read several pages of this thread and am about to order the high pressure hose from Courtesy Nissan parts [ http://www.courtesyparts.com/49720-h...957_2061_2069& ] BUT this hose looks like its intact and dry!

AND I have noticed that a lot of fluid seems to be coming from one of the two hoses coming off the bottom of the power steering fluid reservoir. I took a pic but cant post it here for some reason. The back hose. Is this a separate hose? Or is this all part of the high pressure hose mentioned above?
Looks like this one to me: http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[49717M]+\(a33b&cPath=1956_1957_2061_2069

Should I just change hose #2?
Should I change both?
Should I take it to a mechanic and have him find the leak?

Thanks.

 

read the 5 pages of this thread....got to work w/power steering pressure hose from AZ....

Many fine points were issued...& followed...

The power steering pressure switch turned out to the the most difficult to 'break-loose'.......did not want to have to buy a new switch ( approx $75 bucks & 3 day delivery delay to the dealer ). The 19mm open wrench was the next to last tool in the tool box I planned to use.

I used the mentioned 'dead bleed' & 'live bleed' process after filling the new hose... Filling the new hose w/ps fluid probably took longer than the whole process... I can not confirm this but I think that I was actually filling the new hose...return line...ps pump & back into the reservoir....!!!!

I only had about 2 oz. remaining from a new bottle...couldn't figure it out...why it was taking so long to fill the new hose....I keep checking the banjo fitting/nut area for any leaks...but none...while still filling the new tube...waiting for the air bubbles to burp...

So I finally figured after hooking up the threaded supply line back to the new fitting near the PS pressure switch...that there couldn't be that much open air space in the 'lines'... Then I looked @ the reservoir...it was nearly up to the 'cold maximum fill line'.... I had been filling the whole line system through a small opening feeds...a few dozen drops at a time...

After using a turkey baster suction unit to nearly empty the reservoir of old PS fluid prior to taking the old PS pressure hose off...I collected just about 12 oz of old PS fluid. After filling the new hose as described above...I used about 13 oz of new fluid...

With the new heat shield on the new hose...I found that the mid-line support bracket was not going to go back on very easy...so I just supported it w/black plastic ties to the EGR 3/4 inch hose away from the exhaust manifold...simple & easy modification...

After hanging the new PS pressure line from a small roll of 14 gauge electrical wire...the banjo bolt threaded fairly easily...thanks for that powerful suggestion...it save a lot of trouble & time....

No PS whine or vibs...

I'll post some photos later...

 

This looks like the Powermaster aftermarket replacement part from O'Rielly....@ $115 I'll gladly buy a $150 Oem which came with the mid-support brkt and pressure switch....and will last at least another 8 years...120K!!!!!

 

I live in Canada (2002 SE) and I had the same high pressure power steering hose leak problem at 214 kilometers (134k miles). Leak was at the top of the hose under the rubber insulation. Replaced it last week with the Edelmann at $185 parts and labour. Now getting a slight whirring noise not the pig-like squeal when there is problem. This is a 9 year old car not a brand new Lexus and I just could not bring myself to pay the stealership price plus 13% tax for the OEM before labour. If the whirring gets annoying I'll just turn up the stereo, works wonders everytime.

 

Mine started leaking a few weeks ago. First, I would refill it every week and use the car. Now, the fluid squirts out of the hose and the entire reservoir get empty in a few minutes. So, I read this whole thread to figure out how to fix this problem. Since almost everybody is getting the noise from Edlemann hose, I have decided to go with the OEM part. A lot of you guys mentioned Dave B at South Point Nissan to buy cheap nissan OEM parts from, so I have already ordered the hose and the copper washers from him. For the NISSAN OEM steering wheel pressure hose and the two copper washers + the shipping from Texas to Maryland, Dave has charged me $169 and some change (I am hoping I got a good price). I ordered this stuff yesterday, so I am guessing I will have it by next week. I will try to take pictures when I do this job and I will post all that here in this forum. I guess I'll find out what a PITA this will be. hopefully not!!!

 

This morning I changed my steering wheel high pressure hose. There is no noise issue so far. I used the Nissan OEM tube and not the aftermarket one. If some one want to know how I did it please keep on reading. I also took some pictures. I'll upload them later.

JUST SO YOU KNOW. I'M NOT A PRO. I JUST LIKE FIXING MY CAR MYSELF AFTER I READ ABOUT IT ON THE INTERNET. DON'T FOLLOW MY METHOD IF YOU DON'T THINK THIS IS THE RIGHT PROCEDURE.

Tools I used:
1) Jack and Jack stands with stoppers (to prevent the car from rolling back once the front is jacked up).
2) 1/2 inch ratchet (or whatever size) sockets sizes: 10mm, 24mm or 15/16, wise grip wrench, 14mm open end wrench.

I used the Nissan OEM high pressure hose and 2 copper washers.($169.85 for everything including shipping from DaveB at South Point Nissan).

Here is how I did it.

One day before, I sprayed a lot of PB Blaster(penetrating oil) on all the bolts of the high pressure hose from the top.

1)Park the car on a flat surface and loosen the front right tire lug nuts. Jack the car up from the right sides. (make sure you have the stoppers behind the rear two tires to prevent the car from rolling back and falling on you when you jack it up). Take the lug-nuts out and take the tire off the car. Now you are all set and ready to take the old leaky hose out and replace it with a new one.
2)To remove the hose start by undoing the hose from the bottom by approaching the banjo bolt from under the right wheel which you just took off. If you crawl under the right side you will find this banjo bolt right next to the right tire mold. The space is a little tight (I jacked up the front left side a little and turned the wheels to the left once both front tires were off the ground. By doing so I had some more space to get my arms up to reach the banjo bolt).
3)Now, take the 24mm or15/16 ratchet and un-bolt the banjo bolt. The banjo bolt required a lot of strength to unscrew. I used a long metal pipe and slip the ratchet handle into it. This gave me some more leverage and required just a gentle movement anti-clockwise to loosen the banjo bolt.
4)Once the banjo bolt is loose put a container under it and take it off. Let it drain. Before removing the bolt note and try to remember how the hose is positioned on the steering pump, the new one will go in the same way.
5)Now, that the banjo bolt is off now work on removing the top part of the hose off. To remove the top grab a wise grip wrench and use it to grab the metal part of the pressure hose and with the other hand grab that open end 14mm wrench and screw off the bolt. This will also take some muscle and strength to get loose.
6)Once its unscrewed you can now unscrew the two 10mm bolts that are holding the top end of the tube to the body of the car near the strut.

Now the only thing that is holding the hose is the bracket that is mounted on the back of the engine block. It is almost impossible to take it off so I left it there. Now, you can either work on somehow removing it completely or just put the new one in there beside it and connect either ends and the mounting bracket. Make sure you start again at the bottom. A lot of people had problem putting the banjo bolt back on. I got it in fairly easily. To make the banjo bolt connection:

1)First take the banjo bolt and slipped a copper washer in and then put it trough the ring of the new hose and then slip another washer in.
2)Now, hold it in such a way that the washers doesn't fall off. Then just align it to the pump's hole and screw it slowly. Angle it a little if it doesn't seem to go in. Once you will have the angle right, it will go in very smoothly without a lot of friction.
3)Use the 24 mm 0r 15/16 socket to tighten it.
4)Now, connect the top end of the hose and you are all set.

I don't see why there is even a need to secure the hose to the bracket that is mounted on the engine block. I personally think the hose will be just fine without being tied to anything. I left mine like that.

Once everything is tight follow the "dead bleed/ live bleed" bleeding procedure in this forum to bleed the system. Put the wheel back on and test drive your car. good luck.

WHENEVER YOU RAISE BOTH ENDS OF THE VEHICLE, ALWAYS BE EXTRA CAREFUL. DON'T GO UNDER THE CAR IF YOU DON'T FEEL SAFE. PAY THE DAMN MECHANIC $300 BUCKS TO DO THIS JOB, EVEN IF IT IS TOO MUCH MONEY FOR YOU TO SPEND. TRUST ME ITS NOT WORTH RISKING YOUR LIFE.

 

I didn't see how with that silver encasement I was going to get the bracket back on either so I just left it off. The tension on the hose keeps it right in place pressed up against that bracket anyway. I have checked it several times and it is always in place.

 

Add me to the list. Coming up on 165k and pressure hose is leaking. Lose over 1/2 fluid in tank within 2 days...

...ordered the Edelmann #92037 (even though I already am aware of the possible noise issue) for $72.96 SHIPPED from www.rockauto.com

I know what I'm doing this weekend.

 

Finally got my new oem hose installed now turning is not a problem and it looks so nice n clean. No whining noise at all.

 

hey guys, so after reading all the posts here, i've finally decided to replace the hose while i replace my spark plugs, when the intake manifold is off, hoping this will create more elbow space.

I'll call Dave B to get a quote on the OEM hose. but im also looking at the Edellman unit because it's alot cheaper. Is this the correct part? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=888289 it's priced at $63.79 and this is the description. thanks
EDELMANN Part # 92037 Pressure Line Assembly; 16mm Banjo x 14mm Female Inverted Flare x 27 3/4"

so it's safe to say OEM (more $$$) and no noise, but edelmann (less $$$) and yes noise?

 

Ok, just finished replacing with the Edelmann. I did the entire dry bleed/wet bleed procedure as described in the FSM and still have a slight wrrrrrring noise. For the $72.96 (shipped) I am pleased with the results. And no where near as tough as I had thought. Even the banjo bolt was not that hard. Did it one handed ;-)

Oddly enough, did anyone read the instructions on the Edlemann package? It specifically states to remove the return line from the P/S pump, cap the pump off with supplied cap, and proceed to do a bleed procedure.

Did anyone follow that procedure? I did not, but wonder if that should be done. Thoughts????

 

Hmmmm... I didn't do that either. Makes me wonder if that's a crucial step in order to avoid the buzzing sound.

 

My 2002 started leaking at around 140K. The rubber at the top of the hose near the passenger side shock tower appears to have deteriorated. The test was to pull the foam back and let someone turn the steering wheel to the extreme and bounce it off the end. Under high pressure you could see oil blowing out the hose. The thread is invaluable for learning how to replace it.
As for the why is it failing? After Renault bought a controlling interest in Nissan in 1999 it took them a couple of years to revamp the supply chain management and parts procurement. Where Nissan's only used the best parts available, everything changed to what is the cheapest part available. All of the sound engineering applied to mean time between failures went out the window. That is why you never hear of hose failures, or engine oil consumption or the myriad of other quality related problems that are caused not by the assembly process but by the quality of the components.
Cheap parts made with cheap labor from low cost countries. That was the mantra to try and turn the company around from the purchasing perspective.
But Nissan is not alone in this regard. The Detroit 3, Toyota and the rest have all gone down the same path to control costs. If the general buying public really knew where all of the parts that make up there car came from they would be shocked. Made in America is a myth. So is Made in Japan. Assembled in America or Japan from globally procured parts is more the reality.

 

Again why I love my 2002 because it was made in Japan. Newer Maxima's have an engine and transmission "Made in Japan" but shipped to the US for final assembly.

The 2009 body style does look great though.

 

So are you saying that the high pressure hose failure only happens to later Max/I35s?

What build years does this seem to happen to?

 

All 5th gens. 00-3 Maximas and 00-4 i30/5

 

My original high Pressure hose finally has a leak and I am losing a tad bit of fluid needing to be topped off every 3 weeks. Not bad for 204K miles!
The one from rock auto ordered.. for 75 bucks... i'd rather save the other 75 for something else Thanks all that have contributed to this thread, I might be getting under next weekend or the one after to get this done.

 

Just replaced mine today with an Advanced Auto replacement ($122). Looks just like the Edelmann part. Heat wrapped the whole way down to the banjo bolt fitting. Could not get the damn firewall connection done and said f it and zip tied it. I hear the buzzing with this part as well. I know for a fact there isn't any air in the line. The buzzing isn't as bad as when you're low on PS fluid, but you can definitely hear it.

I actually used a 15/16" crescent wrench to get the bottom banjo bolt on and off, with no leaks. I knew it was metric, but didn't have anything bigger than 19mm, and the 15/16" did the job without rounding off.

Edit : Mine was leaking at 160k at the pressed fitting going into the piece that bolts to the shock tower.

 

Just wanted to drop in this thread and let everyone know my Edelmann hose is still going strong. It might be that I'm used to the whining/buzzing sound now, but I rarely ever hear it anymore except on some occasions. Anyway it's been about a year and a half and about 14k miles. So far my power steering pump hasn't blown up due to the Edelmann hose. Here's hoping it keeps going!

 

Well here it is 12 months after I've replaced my high pressure hose and all is well. No whining or groaning from my Eldeman hose (Used the dry priming technique from here). But now the other hose is leaking (Black hose under reservoir) Has anyone replaced this hose, and the associated cost of hose. Any tips on this particular hose would be appreciated.

 

There are three under reservoir but they should all be pretty easy. You can use a turkey baster to remove PS fluid from the reservoir. Once you do that you can pull it off where it hooks onto metal. Once off you will see the hoses connect with those little pressure clamps. Use pliers slide it up, pull hose off, do same thing at other end. Should be a couple bucks for each hose.

Alternatively you could partially undo the banjo bolt and completely drain the PS but since you don't have the noise I would suggest only partially draining.

You are still gonna want to do the whole leftwheel right wheel process when you are done though.

 

From a purely hydraulic point of view the buzzing/noise that emanates from the pump can only be caused by 2 things. Air in the fluid or cavitation. Cavitation will ultimately lead to pump failure. Why? When a hydraulic pump is trying to move more fluid than can be delivered on the suction side a negative pressure builds in the fluid. This causes a temporary implosion of vapor in the fluid which over time damages the rotating element and chamber in the pump. So if the Edlemann hose diameter is known to be smaller than the OEM hose, and the installation of the Edlemann hose normally results in a buzzing/noise my expectation is eventual pump failure. However, this is pure speculation on my part and without researching the forums for PS pump failures after the installation of this hose I may be off base. I only know what causes cavitation and that it is bad for hydraulic pumps.