CKOTuHA

iTrader: (11)

Recently my Check Engline Light turned on with p0021 code. On the computer it said Crank sensor. I have no idea what it is. My warrenty expired so I have to pay out of my own pocket to fix it.
Is it something that I need to fix or I could ignore it? The car seems fine and I didn't notice anything strange. Idling is good. I had a starting problem for a few years, if I start it up within a few minutes after driving, but give it a little gas and it doesn't shut off.
Anybody had this code fixed? How much is it?
Thanks for your help.

justinny

hey i sent you a PM when i couldnt post explaining how to check this out and maybe to give you a better idea of the issue

ill c&p for others future reference

help with your p0021 code
hey how are you
i cant post in the forum for unknown reasons to me but i looked up your issue
if this helps you any copy and paste it into the thread cause i cant
i have a 2003 SE that i haven't had to get into very deep yet
but
youll need an auto ranging digital multimeter to perform these tests
i recommend one that costs $200 or up if you have lots of electrical issues cheap meters can fool you
but a $50 dollar sears multimeter will do for this for now

using the manual for a 2002 maxima (the codes should be just about the same)
a code p0021 refers to an issue with Intake valve timing control performance (IVT control)

the crankshaft sensor (POS) is related but i do not think it is the cause

the 0021 refers to the bank 2 Intake valve timing control solenoid valve and related circuits
(bank 2 is closer to the front of the car)
here are refrences from the manual
underhood layout:
http://img453.imageshack.us/my.php?i...layout1fx7.jpg
POS and intake valve timing control solenoid valve location
http://img261.imageshack.us/my.php?i...xposivtkc4.jpg

first thing you do
check power to solenoid valve (IVT control solenoid)
turn key off, disconnect the connector to it, with the meter set to dc volts check the harness for power at pin 2 (positive meter lead +) in respect to ground (negative meter lead - to battery negative or any metal chassis part or the engine block)
it should be hot ( battery voltage 12 to 13 volts)
when you turn the key on (engine off)
if it is not then the ecm relay might be bad or the wiring between (you should go through the major component and power tests before you start testing continuity through the harness if youre new to this)

if that is good
next check the solenoid itself
set the meter to read ohms (greek symbol omega for resistance)
put the meter leads to terminals 1 & 2 (polarity doesnt matter here) at about 68 degrees f it should read between 7.0 and 7.5 ohms they dont give temp correction but it should be decently close to these readings
if its bad you found your problem and replace it
(o ohms would indicate that the coil has shorted out internally and infinite ohms would indicate an open circuit in the coil)

next put 1 lead on terminal 1 of the solenoid and the other to the block of the engine
it should read no continuity (infinity or OL consult the meters manual for how it displays infinite ohms)
repeat this for the other terminal
if it fails either step it is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced

this is alot so pm me or post in the thread what you find to this point

ps: the reason it drives fine is because it is in "fail safe" mode
"When malfunction A or B is detected, the ECM enters fail-safe mode and the MIL lights up"
this means because it cant accurately tell what the engine is doing it enters a default preprogrammed mode
you might see some performance loss and fuel economy will suffer
other than that it should drive fine



it can also be a bad crankshaft sensor (POS)
or a bad camshaft sensor (PHASE)

tonyw

How about some punctuation and some CAPITAL letters. It would make what you are saying (trying to say) so much easier to read!