p0300, random missfire .....
09-22-2007, 03:30 PM
#1
p0300, random missfire .....
Well today the code came up, cleared it and it came back agian after a few miles. I hope this isnt anything serious cause up too 112k i havent had many problems besides the MAF and a clutch which was clerly my fault.....
.....ya I searched and i know theres a hole bunchof things it can be ranging from plugs, injector coil, etc....
But i was messing around with the SSIM buttery the other day ( i was gettin a template made up and took some measurements )
If by some crazy chance there was a leak now from the SSIM would that cause a missfire ?
I also had my thottle body removed and Im pritty sure i sealed the spacer up good, can that have anything to do with it if its not sealed up good?
The car idles normal from what I can tell, what are some basic tests I can do before i just start replacing stuff.
.....ya I searched and i know theres a hole bunchof things it can be ranging from plugs, injector coil, etc....
But i was messing around with the SSIM buttery the other day ( i was gettin a template made up and took some measurements )
If by some crazy chance there was a leak now from the SSIM would that cause a missfire ?
I also had my thottle body removed and Im pritty sure i sealed the spacer up good, can that have anything to do with it if its not sealed up good?
The car idles normal from what I can tell, what are some basic tests I can do before i just start replacing stuff.
09-22-2007, 08:33 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
run "throttle valve closed position learning"
1. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound
then run "Idle Air Volume Learning"
run the car and drive it around a bit to warm up the engine and trans (about 10 minutes the manual recommends)
shut off all electrical loads (a/c radio etc)
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING”
(previously mentioned) are in good order.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition
switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
5. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
1) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
2) Fully release the accelerator pedal.
6. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep
it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL goes off.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the
MIL goes off.
8. Start engine and let it idle.
9. Wait 20 seconds.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within the specifications
11. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification,
the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the “Diagnostic Procedure” below.
clear the dtc's and see what happens from there
if you still have problems
did u use new gaskets?
make sure they are seated properly or outright replace em
1. Turn ignition switch “ON”.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound
then run "Idle Air Volume Learning"
run the car and drive it around a bit to warm up the engine and trans (about 10 minutes the manual recommends)
shut off all electrical loads (a/c radio etc)
1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING”
(previously mentioned) are in good order.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition
switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
5. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
1) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
2) Fully release the accelerator pedal.
6. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep
it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL goes off.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the
MIL goes off.
8. Start engine and let it idle.
9. Wait 20 seconds.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within the specifications
11. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification,
the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the “Diagnostic Procedure” below.
clear the dtc's and see what happens from there
if you still have problems
did u use new gaskets?
make sure they are seated properly or outright replace em
is that going to do?
09-22-2007, 08:55 PM
#8
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
code P0300 can be caused by lots of things including blown head gaskets, coil packs, plugs, wiring, loss of compression, incorrect settings and non calibrated components
the 1st step in the diagnostics for P0300 is to check for an intake leak
servicing the throttle body (removing it) may require that these two things are done after a reinstall
it costs nothing to try and it might just work
also you can erase your own codes using this procedure
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp
also check pcv and hose
seeing you messed with the throttle body thats probably where the problem is
the 1st step in the diagnostics for P0300 is to check for an intake leak
servicing the throttle body (removing it) may require that these two things are done after a reinstall
it costs nothing to try and it might just work
also you can erase your own codes using this procedure
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp
also check pcv and hose
seeing you messed with the throttle body thats probably where the problem is
09-22-2007, 09:13 PM
#10
. . . .
09-22-2007, 10:17 PM
#12
did all the resets, first did the ODB 2 code erase, then unpluged battery , then did the pedal dance reset too, It seems good but then after about 20-30 miles the code comes back......
Also set the safc back to default just cause i thought it might be something with that but its not..
Is that injector cleanin they do at the stealership any good? cause i think all the bottled stuff they sell doesnt do shhh....
Ill tried the carb cleaner into the manifold gaskets, eveything up top seems good but im worried about the lower manifold gaskets, couldnt realy get the spray in there good, gona try agian tomoro....
I forgot to check the PCV, but what should i look for on it ?
Also set the safc back to default just cause i thought it might be something with that but its not..
Is that injector cleanin they do at the stealership any good? cause i think all the bottled stuff they sell doesnt do shhh....
Ill tried the carb cleaner into the manifold gaskets, eveything up top seems good but im worried about the lower manifold gaskets, couldnt realy get the spray in there good, gona try agian tomoro....
I forgot to check the PCV, but what should i look for on it ?
09-22-2007, 10:31 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
a 2002 nissan maxima service manual (factory manual), my training, and experience with nissan obdII type engines
if you mess with the t/b you should run those esp if you took it out and handled it
ive seen that fix odd random dtc's before and it takes less than 5 minutes & 0 dollars
if that dont work check all the gaskets you may have an intake leak
the troubleshooting chart for this code is 4 pages
if he didnt have issues before he took it apart the obvious place to start is where he was messin with it
if you mess with the t/b you should run those esp if you took it out and handled it
ive seen that fix odd random dtc's before and it takes less than 5 minutes & 0 dollars
if that dont work check all the gaskets you may have an intake leak
the troubleshooting chart for this code is 4 pages
if he didnt have issues before he took it apart the obvious place to start is where he was messin with it
Last edited by justinny; 09-22-2007 at 10:34 PM.
09-22-2007, 10:38 PM
#14
a 2002 nissan maxima service manual (factory manual), my training, and experience with nissan obdII type engines
if you mess with the t/b you should run those esp if you took it out and handled it
ive seen that fix odd random dtc's before and it takes less than 5 minutes & 0 dollars
if that dont work check all the gaskets you may have an intake leak
the troubleshooting chart for this code is 4 pages
if he didnt have issues before he took it apart the obvious place to start is where he was messin with it
if you mess with the t/b you should run those esp if you took it out and handled it
ive seen that fix odd random dtc's before and it takes less than 5 minutes & 0 dollars
if that dont work check all the gaskets you may have an intake leak
the troubleshooting chart for this code is 4 pages
if he didnt have issues before he took it apart the obvious place to start is where he was messin with it
well thats the thing, im not even sure if this just started, my car always has a SES cause of my secondary o2 sensors, but i finaly installed o2 simulaters the other day, but i dont have the heat resistor but still dont have a cell for it so....
My car isnt ever with out a SES but im used to it, and now im finally tring to get rid of it but the p0300 is a new code!
BTW guys how mush is it for new coil packs ?
and im sure your knowledgeable, but the guys are just bustin your ***** cause your a new to the forums ...lol
Last edited by maxspeed96CT; 09-22-2007 at 10:47 PM.
09-22-2007, 10:44 PM
#15
a 2002 nissan maxima service manual (factory manual), my training, and experience with nissan obdII type engines
if you mess with the t/b you should run those esp if you took it out and handled it
ive seen that fix odd random dtc's before and it takes less than 5 minutes & 0 dollars
if that dont work check all the gaskets you may have an intake leak
the troubleshooting chart for this code is 4 pages
if he didnt have issues before he took it apart the obvious place to start is where he was messin with it
if you mess with the t/b you should run those esp if you took it out and handled it
ive seen that fix odd random dtc's before and it takes less than 5 minutes & 0 dollars
if that dont work check all the gaskets you may have an intake leak
the troubleshooting chart for this code is 4 pages
if he didnt have issues before he took it apart the obvious place to start is where he was messin with it
09-22-2007, 10:45 PM
#16
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
id run through all the cheaper options b4 swappin parts out
id say if you had a P0301-P0306 a coil would be more likely since those codes are for misfires on particular cylinders
to have multiple coils fail at once isnt likely so something else could be the cause
make sure your ecm relay isnt loose or faulty too (it supplies power to coil packs and the ecm turns them on by providing a ground through an internal transistor)
09-22-2007, 11:00 PM
#17
lol yeah typical forums stuff
id run through all the cheaper options b4 swappin parts out
id say if you had a P0301-P0306 a coil would be more likely since those codes are for misfires on particular cylinders
to have multiple coils fail at once isnt likely so something else could be the cause
make sure your ecm relay isnt loose or faulty too (it supplies power to coil packs and the ecm turns them on by providing a ground through an internal transistor)
id run through all the cheaper options b4 swappin parts out
id say if you had a P0301-P0306 a coil would be more likely since those codes are for misfires on particular cylinders
to have multiple coils fail at once isnt likely so something else could be the cause
make sure your ecm relay isnt loose or faulty too (it supplies power to coil packs and the ecm turns them on by providing a ground through an internal transistor)
ill check that, my buddy said check simple stuff like pcv valve and etc, but i dont even know were to start, should i try a injector clear also ? what else can i do ?
I looked at the front set of plugs and they looked ok, didnt check the back tho...
09-23-2007, 02:05 AM
#18
code P0300 can be caused by lots of things including blown head gaskets, coil packs, plugs, wiring, loss of compression, incorrect settings and non calibrated components
the 1st step in the diagnostics for P0300 is to check for an intake leak
servicing the throttle body (removing it) may require that these two things are done after a reinstall
it costs nothing to try and it might just work
also you can erase your own codes using this procedure
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp
also check pcv and hose
seeing you messed with the throttle body thats probably where the problem is
the 1st step in the diagnostics for P0300 is to check for an intake leak
servicing the throttle body (removing it) may require that these two things are done after a reinstall
it costs nothing to try and it might just work
also you can erase your own codes using this procedure
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp
also check pcv and hose
seeing you messed with the throttle body thats probably where the problem is
09-23-2007, 11:07 AM
#20
ran some sea foam in the brake booster, car seems to run good most of the time....
But still getting the code
I watched the idle closely and noticed it bounced alil bit but nothing abnormal.
On the afc it stays between 580 -620 most of the time if just idleing
But still getting the code
I watched the idle closely and noticed it bounced alil bit but nothing abnormal.
On the afc it stays between 580 -620 most of the time if just idleing
09-23-2007, 02:49 PM
#22
09-23-2007, 06:16 PM
#24
09-23-2007, 07:28 PM
#25
i had the same thing: p0011, p0021, and p0300, but my car still ran like a champ. fwiw, i never touched the TB. that's why i took it to the dealer and they gave me that spiel about the oil.
09-24-2007, 03:50 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
pm me your email and ill send u the electronic control section pdf with the codes and tests
here is the coil test for an 02 im sure its the same as an 03 (3.5)
the coil test might be the same for a 3.0 but i didnt look
that basically means that if it shows any amount of resistance (ohms) its good
if it has zero resistance (0 ohms- internally shorted) its bad
09-24-2007, 04:33 PM
#27
thanks for the info.
Just as an update, i checked the rear plugs and the plug on the drivers side, closest to the firewall was cover in oil alil bit .
my rear valve cover seal mut be leaking..... Could that be my main problem, it didnt look like the oil got to the tip of the plug itself, but it was in the spark plug area and the coil area alil ?
Just as an update, i checked the rear plugs and the plug on the drivers side, closest to the firewall was cover in oil alil bit .
my rear valve cover seal mut be leaking..... Could that be my main problem, it didnt look like the oil got to the tip of the plug itself, but it was in the spark plug area and the coil area alil ?
09-24-2007, 06:21 PM
#28
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: LI NY
Posts: 78
if it was 1 particular cyl with a misfire, it would give you a code between P0301 - P0306
the last number in the code would indicate the cyl that is misfiring
i dont think this is the problem
id fix it anyway and check
if you get lucky, maybe the crankcase ventilation caused it but its doubtful (in effect bypassing the pcv check ball)
the last number in the code would indicate the cyl that is misfiring
i dont think this is the problem
id fix it anyway and check
if you get lucky, maybe the crankcase ventilation caused it but its doubtful (in effect bypassing the pcv check ball)
Last edited by justinny; 09-24-2007 at 06:24 PM.
10-30-2007, 08:37 AM
#29
changed the plugs, no sucess. Checked for vacum leaks, didnt realy see anything broken or wrong.
havent check the pcv valve just cause i forgot .
Im hoping its no the coils, any one rember how much the set of coils for a 2k2 costed them ?
havent check the pcv valve just cause i forgot .
Im hoping its no the coils, any one rember how much the set of coils for a 2k2 costed them ?
Last edited by maxspeed96CT; 10-30-2007 at 12:01 PM.
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