o2 sensor and MAF
o2 sensor and MAF
are the o2 sensor and MAF in any way related?
the other day i was having problems with a loss of power / acceleration in my maxima so i went to the FSM and checked about testing the MAF and i determined it to be bad testing it with a voltmeter, it wasn't matching up to specs. that was about 3 days.
tonight i started my car to get ready to go to my girlfriends house and as soon as it started, SES light was on, i grabbed my obd scanner and checked it and it read P0135, O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 1 sensor 1)
are these 2 items in any way related?
is it possible that a bad MAF would set off a SES for an o2 sensor?
is it just bad luck that both would decide to go bad at the same time?
could a bad o2 sensor cause my maxima to get **** acceleration and power loss?
when i cold start the car it wont rev past 2400 so im leaning toward definitly a bad MAF, but when the car is warm it will go all the way up but from 3-6K theres a bad power loss.
any thoughts?
the other day i was having problems with a loss of power / acceleration in my maxima so i went to the FSM and checked about testing the MAF and i determined it to be bad testing it with a voltmeter, it wasn't matching up to specs. that was about 3 days.
tonight i started my car to get ready to go to my girlfriends house and as soon as it started, SES light was on, i grabbed my obd scanner and checked it and it read P0135, O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (Bank 1 sensor 1)
are these 2 items in any way related?
is it possible that a bad MAF would set off a SES for an o2 sensor?
is it just bad luck that both would decide to go bad at the same time?
could a bad o2 sensor cause my maxima to get **** acceleration and power loss?
when i cold start the car it wont rev past 2400 so im leaning toward definitly a bad MAF, but when the car is warm it will go all the way up but from 3-6K theres a bad power loss.
any thoughts?
it might not have been your MAF that was faulty.. could've been your o2 sensor all the way
if you were able to go past 2000rpms IIRC (or was it 2500rpm), your MAF still works
of course not optimally since it's old, but fine
if it were your o2 sensor, especially a sensor 1, it can't get the right reading before it hits the cat/precat, which will make it run in a preset mode for a/f ratio
just saw your 2400rpm statement, and it just might be your unlucky day that both went out. you will also see a huge loss in fuel economy because of your o2
get them changed quickly
might be a b!tch to change o2, and you need an o2 sensor socket that has an opening on the side to go past the wire
if anything, change your MAF and get the o2 done after u get your tools or bring it to a shop. you should just go there and ask a working mechanic to do it for u for $10 or so, so you don't have to go through any service departments or anything and have them charge u half an hour for it, which might end up costing you $40
if you were able to go past 2000rpms IIRC (or was it 2500rpm), your MAF still works
of course not optimally since it's old, but fine
if it were your o2 sensor, especially a sensor 1, it can't get the right reading before it hits the cat/precat, which will make it run in a preset mode for a/f ratio
just saw your 2400rpm statement, and it just might be your unlucky day that both went out. you will also see a huge loss in fuel economy because of your o2
get them changed quickly
might be a b!tch to change o2, and you need an o2 sensor socket that has an opening on the side to go past the wire
if anything, change your MAF and get the o2 done after u get your tools or bring it to a shop. you should just go there and ask a working mechanic to do it for u for $10 or so, so you don't have to go through any service departments or anything and have them charge u half an hour for it, which might end up costing you $40
Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 78
From: LI NY
thats not quite right
where you getting a code for a bad MAF before?
heres what the manual says about a bad MAF (page ec-129)
"Engine speed will not rise more than 2,400 rpm due to the fuel cut."
so that was that
electronically the maf and heated oxygen sensor are not related
the ho2 sensor heaters are powered by the key (hot with key in on or start) and grounded by the ecm internally
the maf is powered by the ecm relay. the ecm relay is always hot and is driven by the ecm
this code is for the heater circuit (for these o2 sensors to work properly they have to be above 600 feg f)
the ecm drives it (by providing a ground through the ecm)
you can test it by the procedures for the code in your manual
idk what year you have so the pinout to the ecm is different
its probably the heater element in the sensor but make sure and test the harness (voltages and continuity) before you buy 1 or buy it and see if it works lol
where you getting a code for a bad MAF before?
heres what the manual says about a bad MAF (page ec-129)
"Engine speed will not rise more than 2,400 rpm due to the fuel cut."
so that was that
electronically the maf and heated oxygen sensor are not related
the ho2 sensor heaters are powered by the key (hot with key in on or start) and grounded by the ecm internally
the maf is powered by the ecm relay. the ecm relay is always hot and is driven by the ecm
this code is for the heater circuit (for these o2 sensors to work properly they have to be above 600 feg f)
the ecm drives it (by providing a ground through the ecm)
you can test it by the procedures for the code in your manual
idk what year you have so the pinout to the ecm is different
its probably the heater element in the sensor but make sure and test the harness (voltages and continuity) before you buy 1 or buy it and see if it works lol
Last edited by justinny; Sep 23, 2007 at 09:15 AM.
Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 78
From: LI NY
the o2 sensor from autozone for a 3.5 is $100-220 for bank1
for the 3.0 its a tad cheaper $60 - 120
i always like to make sure before i buy a non returnable part
Last edited by justinny; Sep 23, 2007 at 09:46 AM.
i have the tool to change o2 sensors from when my dad did his i30...
he didn't have any loss of power while his were bad, and he had to change 2 of them. both went bad together.
how can i check if the wires are bad?
which sensor is bank 1 sensor 1? anyone have a picture to make it really easy?
and it's a 2000 maxima.
Last edited by MyBlue92Maxima; Sep 23, 2007 at 10:00 AM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 5
2k Max...same issue???
What up my peps? I have a 2k gle and I think i may be having this same issue. My max is running funny. I am thinking it is my MAF, but let me run some symtoms by everyone and see what you all think.
If I run the car on the interstate for a while and gun the engine, the is a possibility for the engine to run hot. Not completly overheat, but the temp runs noticeably higher then normal. And I see steam coming from somewhere under the hood. Something is overheating, but I don't know what and from where. There is fluid in the radiator, but whatever fluid I put in the overflow boils away and doesn't seem to be overflowing back from the radiator.
The climate controll has been acting irregular the same amount of time since I have been having the above problem. In AUTO mode (A/C, Heat, or Defrost), the system does not seem to be maintaining the temp through use of the fans like it use to.
I believe I am noticing a decrease in fuel mileage also.
And finally, the engine cooling fans run just about when ever I run the car. It normally use to just run during long drives or when I had the AC on for awhile. But like, I said, they run all the time.
Thank you for any help or suggestions in this area.
If I run the car on the interstate for a while and gun the engine, the is a possibility for the engine to run hot. Not completly overheat, but the temp runs noticeably higher then normal. And I see steam coming from somewhere under the hood. Something is overheating, but I don't know what and from where. There is fluid in the radiator, but whatever fluid I put in the overflow boils away and doesn't seem to be overflowing back from the radiator.
The climate controll has been acting irregular the same amount of time since I have been having the above problem. In AUTO mode (A/C, Heat, or Defrost), the system does not seem to be maintaining the temp through use of the fans like it use to.
I believe I am noticing a decrease in fuel mileage also.
And finally, the engine cooling fans run just about when ever I run the car. It normally use to just run during long drives or when I had the AC on for awhile. But like, I said, they run all the time.
Thank you for any help or suggestions in this area.
Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 78
From: LI NY
What up my peps? I have a 2k gle and I think i may be having this same issue. My max is running funny. I am thinking it is my MAF, but let me run some symtoms by everyone and see what you all think.
If I run the car on the interstate for a while and gun the engine, the is a possibility for the engine to run hot. Not completly overheat, but the temp runs noticeably higher then normal. And I see steam coming from somewhere under the hood. Something is overheating, but I don't know what and from where. There is fluid in the radiator, but whatever fluid I put in the overflow boils away and doesn't seem to be overflowing back from the radiator.
The climate controll has been acting irregular the same amount of time since I have been having the above problem. In AUTO mode (A/C, Heat, or Defrost), the system does not seem to be maintaining the temp through use of the fans like it use to.
I believe I am noticing a decrease in fuel mileage also.
And finally, the engine cooling fans run just about when ever I run the car. It normally use to just run during long drives or when I had the AC on for awhile. But like, I said, they run all the time.
Thank you for any help or suggestions in this area.
If I run the car on the interstate for a while and gun the engine, the is a possibility for the engine to run hot. Not completly overheat, but the temp runs noticeably higher then normal. And I see steam coming from somewhere under the hood. Something is overheating, but I don't know what and from where. There is fluid in the radiator, but whatever fluid I put in the overflow boils away and doesn't seem to be overflowing back from the radiator.
The climate controll has been acting irregular the same amount of time since I have been having the above problem. In AUTO mode (A/C, Heat, or Defrost), the system does not seem to be maintaining the temp through use of the fans like it use to.
I believe I am noticing a decrease in fuel mileage also.
And finally, the engine cooling fans run just about when ever I run the car. It normally use to just run during long drives or when I had the AC on for awhile. But like, I said, they run all the time.
Thank you for any help or suggestions in this area.
warm up your car with the radiator cap off (dont remove the cap if the car is hot) then fill it up, rev it a few times, and fill it again (if it dindt all come boiling back out)
if that dont work
change your thermostat
it comes with the water neck (dont change the thermostat alone)
the part is 17 -30 dollars at autozone
after changing it repeat the 1st part to bleed out air in the system
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