aaahhh stupid 02 sensorrrrrr.....errrr

 

from what I heard, the car will run poorly. The Nissan tech told me you should have the ECM "Flash" done soon after replacing the MAF. It won't cause any major damage, but the car will run poorly and you could eventually damage something else. He said it was OK to replace it at home and then drive to the dealer for the flash.

 

My ECM is up-to-date as of Nov 2003 (I checked all the records that were included when I purchased the car). Someone else posted that running the Max without the new MAF attached for 30 seconds help prime the computer by flushing its fuel/air ratio tables. I'll post my results afterward. I mean, either way the worst-case-scenario is the $120 fee to Nissan.

 

The "ECM is up to date" story bit me today...

After the dealer replaced the AFM 2 weeks ago, they said my car already had the lastest version of the ECM software. OK fine, on my way I went. I went through two tanks of gas and the mileage dropped by 5-6 MPG.

I took the car back this morning and asked the service manager about it. At first he asked me if I was using the trip odometer or the main odometer to figure my mileage...HUH?? I asked why that mattered and he said the trip odo is always off. I told him I used the trip odo for both the before AFM and the after AFM measurements so it should not make a difference...Plus they both get the same signal from the sensors.

He finally said they would "look at it". After about an hour he said they did find that the car was running very rich, but needed and hour more (at $115) to "dig into it". I asked why I had to pay and after a few minutes of BS on the phone I finally told them to go ahead.

After another hour..guess what the tech found......the ECM needed to be updated because the software was out of date!! HELLO?? The serivce bulletin that talks about replacing the AFM specifically says to update the ECM...The tech updated the ECM and all the readings came back into spec.

When it came time to pay the bill, I argued that it should be a warranty issue as they didn't update it when they replaced the AFM. The service manager said that when they replaced the AFM, the ECM was current. I asked if Nissan would have released a new ECM software update in the last 2 weeks and he said "we get them all the time". I didn't buy that story and logic would not work with him. He "only" charged me $85 and I left.

When I got home I looked at all the paperwork and found the "before" and "after" ECM software versions (Nissan uses part numbers to keep track of the versions). My "before" ECM part number was 23710-5Y006 and the "after" part number was 23710-5Y061. The way I interpret the numbers is that there were 55 software updates since my "before" ECM version. Do you think they "just came in last week"? Not a chance!

The moral is that if you have your 2000-2001 AFM replaced MAKE SURE they update the ECM!!

 

I want to change the two oxygen sensors on my Calf. spec 2000 Maxima. Iwant to change the HO2S1 front O2 sensor B1 black, and the HO2S1 B2 front O2 sensor B2 Blue. Anyone know the parts numbers for these two so I can order them on line. Thanks

 

Look at www.ngk.com for good prices on OEM style sensors

 

UPDATE

I replaced my MAF from a rev E0000 (stock) to an E0003 (or at least I think that's what that code means - OEM replacement) with the Nov 2003 firmware update. The new MAF was manufactured in Aug 07. I also used the trick to flush the air/fuel ratio table by running the car for about 30 seconds (more like a minute) with the MAF unhooked. I plugged up the new MAF, let the ECM get accustomed to the change, cleared the codes with an OBD-II scanner, and then monitored trim rates. Looks great, runs very strong, and all evidence of pinging/ticking has disappeared.

Thanks to all who kindly replied.

 

300 miles so far. Gas mileage has definitely improved (was getting about 350 miles to a tank of Chevron 93) and the needle is still hovering between half and quarter. Engine is butter smooth - still no ticking/pinging. SES light is in its rightful position - OFF.

 

so it's $150 for MAF from DaveB + $120 for (23710-5Y061) update @ dealership?

 

I gave $80 (incl. shipping) from a seller of eBay.

 

My MAF (22680-2Y001) was $80 from www.mazda-parts-dealer.com (they sell Nissan and Mazda parts).

Yes, that ECM Part/version number was the latest as of a week ago.

 

So 22680-2Y001 from mazdaparts is direct oem replacement? Is it Nissan brand?

 

Yes, it's OEM Nissan. The real article...

 

Hi, members here are saying that a bad MAF can cause a car to start and then stall right away only when the engine is warm. Can a bad MAF sensor or any other o2 sensor be responsible for something like this?

Thanks,
Mustafa

 

My car seemed to work fine when cold (would idle), but would stall at lights when warm.

 

Hey guys,
For the past few months my girlfriend's 01 Max has been stalling/shuddering/etc. when at stop signs, lights, and so on. She first got an Idle Air Control Valve code and had it replaced. The car still has the same problem, yet no lights came up. Today she gets another check engine light and the guy at Autozone checks the code and said it was O2 Sensor 2 Bank 2.
The problem has gradually gotten worse and the car will shut off completely if it is left on without your foot on the gas. Could this all be caused by the MAF? Perhaps a bad MAF would cause the IAC Valve and O2 sensor to give a fault code at separate times? I don't want to change the O2 sensor and it still do the same thing. Especially since after reading all this I kind of think it is the MAF. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

MAF.. MAF... and MAF. My old MAF, though not throwing a MAF malfunction code was triggering the O2 sensor code (no IACV codes though).

 

Update:

1010 miles after new MAF was installed - SES light came back on. I get to go to the parts store today to find out what's pissing the computer off this time

 

She took her car to her regular mechanic, he couldn't figure it out. Took it to Nissan, they couldn't figure it out so they got the "Master Technician" to look at it. The conclusion they come up with is the ECM has something wrong with it. So she's having the ECM changed out (about $900). However, if that does not fix it, they are going to remove the new ECM and not charge her.
All that sounds pretty messed up to me. This whole time I think it is the MAF. I think they are basing the decision that it is not the MAF off the fact that a MAF code has not been thrown. We'll see in a few days I guess. I'll post the results.

 

P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

It was recommended that I reset the code, see if it comes back. If it does, change gas (Chevron 93 not good enough??). If it does again, then I need to check to see if an O2 sensor replacement is warranted.

In any respect, I checked the trims with the new MAF and everything looks good (so at least that's not the problem).

 

SES light went on last night and I'm getting the same code. It sounds like I have a minor exhuast leak though. I re-set it. I'm just waiting for it to come back on.

 

I don't hear any evidence of an exhaust leak. I'm going to cross my fingers on a bad batch of gas or something since the plugs in the car were replaced about 10K ago. Engine is butter smooth all throughout its range and very strong (I love synthetic oil and previously owned cars that used it). So I'm not concerned with the coil packs. I'll keep you all posted.

 

Swop bank 1 and bank 2 @ harness plug! If trbl xfers to bank 2 just replace the O2 sensor. Call ABC Nissan 1003731066, I think the price maybe $75-80 for the actual Nissan part

 

ive read into and it looks like we have to see if we need a ecu reflash, if not then replace the cat.

 

I got the same code shortly after replacing my MAF. I reset it and it has not come back since. The tech I talked to said it was possible the failing MAF was "dirtying" up the CAT and that now everything is back to spec, it takes the CAT a while to clear itself out. He didn't think I'd see that P0420 code again...And I have not!!

 

I reset the code and it came on after about a hundred miles of driving. So, the whole bank 1 and bank 2 swap is interesting... I'm assuming that the connectors are indeed compatible? If so, then CMax03 just saved some of us a lot of headache!!

 

I have the same code that's been popping on and off for the past month now. I've gotten it before when it was still under warrenty. Probably should have brought it in instead of clearing it and adding fuel injector cleaner. But since it went away I didn't bother with it. Now it won't go away.

Anyways, when the engine is cold, and if I drive off right away say less than 10 seconds of idling, the engine would act like it got choked off and then come back to life and the car basically drive like if I was in first gear and pumping the gas pedal. It's really bad and embarassing... (the idiot doesn't know how to drive!)... Anyone of you with this problem? I'm thinking of checking out the O2 sensor connectors and maybe swapping and all the other pre part replacement checks before I actually start replacing oxygen sensors and MAF.

Other than that, the car seem to drive fine, although it pings from time to time more often than I expect or like under heavier throttle. I use 93 gas all the time. It has never stalled cold or warm.

 

I had basically the same symptoms as you. The code would tend to fire when driving on the highway and the car chokes/stutters if I don't let it idle enough when it's cold. The dealer diagnosed it as a bad MAF. I'll let you know what happens when I replace the MAF.

 

Talked with a highly reputable Nissan person *wink* (if you read this), and he suggested based on the version of the ECU firmware that I have and the most current one, Im about 4 revisions out of date. And the diagnostic procedure (which he looked up for me - thanks!) said 0420 fix procedure is as follows:

1) Update ECU if not already latest.
2) Update ECU if not already latest, replace downstream O2 sensors if out of spec.
3) Update ECU if not already latest, replace downstream O2 sensors if out of spec, replace catalytic converter.

We both agreed that considering the fact that the P0420 onset happened shortly after I replaced the MAF that it is probably NOT a coincidence and that an ECU update would probably do me pretty good, especially running in cold air.

He also explained very eloquently why the charge for the ECU update for the car. The procedure takes about 45 minutes to an hour and requires manual work in the operation of several pieces of equipment (battery charger, fan, CONSULT-II, etc.) The CONSULT-II takes about 20 minutes to get all the information it needs to begin the procedure. The firmware comes from Nissan itself, and is not built-into CONSULT-II - so the download probably takes a little bit. Anyway, so let's not burn the dealership at the stake about the CONSULT-II. I'm not going to mention the name of the Nissan guy (who's an active participant here), because I'm sure he doesn't want to spend all day long on the phone long distance with Org members wringing the bugs out of their Maximas

 

That's interesting, because my dealership quoted me 1/2 hour of labour to reprogram the ECU - and I don't think a dealership is going to ever quote you less time than it actually takes to perform a task. More time however....

 

Assuming your dealership has everything in hand and at the ready... I'd imagine it would be fairly cut and dry, wouldn't it?

 

About 280 miles after the light came on for the second time for P0420 and after the car had been sitting for about fifteen minutes, the light is off. This could be duplicating the behavior cited by other Org members that say that P0420 comes and goes by itself. So it's back to looking for the SES light again. If it comes on again, I'll cough up the dough to get my ECU updated.

 

hey guys i have the same problem awhile ago my SES went on. I went to autozone to check whats going on with my maxima found out it throw P0171. they said my car runs to lean they reccomended to buy a STP fuel cleaner so i did after a couple of minutes of driving the SES went off. but they still advice me to have my fuel injectors to be cleaned and check as well. does it mean that my car is fine?

 

Considering you had a case of "cause and effect", I'd say that having someone professionally cleaned and resistances checked would not be a bad idea. This would honest to goodness be the first case where I've seen those cheap $1 bottles of jet fuel actually do something *grin*.

 

If your car is still under 8/80K, get it replaced through dealer. You are under federal epa emission warranty on the catalytic converter.

There is a ton of material on P0420 and related code in this and other forums. Bottom line is that you either need ECM reprogrammed to make it little less sensitive or replace the catalytic converter with another OEM one. Both of these jobs are dealer only and if you under 8/80K, covered by Nissan.

Otherwise, you take the simulator (or sensor extension) route. Don't try to replace the O2 sensor or worse, cheap after market converter.

On my 2000 Maxima, dealer reprogrammed ECU at first but the light came back within 1000 miles and they finally replaced the failing catalytic converter. I am sure the light will come back on in another 70,000 miles!

- Vikas

 

114K on my car - fully out of warranty.

Funny as hell these CALI-emissions modern cars. My 3rd gen had 300K and I didn't see a check engine light on at all (granted the simplicity of OBD-I and its ECU), but these modern cars are so incredibly sensitive to these things.

 

where did you find the MAF for $78? im having the exact same problem so i think i will try the MAF next. thanks in advance

 

When i plug in 22680-2Y001 on the mazda website listed above, it finds nothing. I was searching on a 2000 maxima and tried also a 2002 maxima. No parts found. I tried it with and without the hyphen.

 

How can you tell if the MAF is manufactured or update august 2007? I'm about to buy this used MAF but its almost new with 1500miles on it.