I got my first SES light at 100K and it's a code P-0171, "Too lean bank 1". The Autozone guy says that's an O2 sensor and wants to sell me the $150 version.

I have never replaced the plugs so I thought I would try that first.

If it's the sesnor, can I use a "universal" O2 sensor? 2-wire, 3-wire or 4wire? Bosch makes some reasonably priced units and I can re-attach the factory connector plug if necessary

Thanks

 

use an exact replacement only

this code says that its running lean on the right bank
this can caused by alot of stuff
I Intake air leaks
I Heated oxygen sensor 1
I Injectors
I Exhaust gas leaks
I Incorrect fuel pressure
I Lack of fuel
I Mass air flow sensor
I Incorrect PCV hose connection

check these in order of cheapes to most expensive to test/replace

 

My money is on the MAF.

 

Is there a way better pinpoint the problem with the code reader?

The light came on right after I checked my air filter. I re-checked and it was seated correctly and is clean.

If it's the MAF, it is a cleaning or a replacement?

Thanks

 

I'd replace the MAF.

 

From what I can tell, the 01 Max has 3 O2 sensors, front front right, front front left and rear. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

Does it make sense to replace the O2 sensor for bank 1 since that's the code I'm getting. If it was the MAF I would think I would get a different code.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

I'd replace the MAF.

 

id test the maf and all those components before buying anything
the MAF is 170 bucks + a 45 dollar core (autozone)

 

I'm going to give cleaning the MAF a shot first. Thanks

 

why the hell would you buy a MAF at autozone

you have much to learn

 

Autozone has rebuilt units with a 1 year warranty....

I took mine out and cleaned everything. Still have the SES light. How many "cycles" (start/shut off) before the light clears itself...or not...

Thanks

 

or...get a BAND NEW one from daveb

 

cause its easy to find and most ppl have 1 near them
it also gets an idea of what the part could cost
have you replaced the o2 sensor or was it replaced
youre probably about due for them (all) anyway if you havnt at 100k miles
if that dont get it
check the intake manifold on the cylinder bank closest to the windshield for leaks

if you had this code for both bank1 (P0171) and bank2 (P0174) then id suspect something upstream of where the manifolds diverts the air to the 2 banks such as the maf because then both o2 sensors (sensors 1, bank 1 & 2) would show lean conditions and compensation would be way out of range

you have 4 o2 sensors 2 before and 2 after the cat

 

Is bank 1 closest to the front or to the windshield?
Thanks

 

bank 1 is closest to the windshield
bank 2 is on the radiator side

 

Murphy's Law..Bank 1 is the hardest to get to and the one with the problem.

Thanks for the picture!!

 

lol thats always the way these things go
np and good luck

 

I think its the MAF.

 

ok this code is basically saying that the car is running lean, and no matter how the ecm tries to compensate it is unable to richen the mixture enough
each cylinder bank is monitored separately for this by the heated oxygen sensors (sensors1, bank 1 & 2)
the code he got is saying bank 1 is not compensating - P0171
bank 2 is fine at this point
if the maf was bad it would effect both o2 sensors not just 1 since it is before the manifold

 

if the MAF was bad, shorted, or disconnect hed get a P0101, P0102, or P0103,

 

I'm still digging and will let you know what I find out. I tend to agree that it's not the AFM, but who knows. I did find a new AFM part number 22680-2Y001 that goes for $78 brand new. It would be a cheap first pass, but I'd have to have the ECM re-programmed...

 

Update and end to the story.

I called and my local Nissan dealer had an opening so I took the car in. They checked it with CONSULT and found it WAS the AFM. They sold me the new one at the on-line price and charged me $120 for the diagnosis, installation and re-program of the ECM. As it turns out, my ECM had the latest software.

So now the light is off and the car is running great and best of all it just took an hour and a half of my time.

What's interesting is the only code was the P0171 yet is was the AFM that was bad.

Thanks for all the help!

 

yes

 

thanks for the help

someone replied with a picture 5 days ago!! http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...5&postcount=15

and you felt the need to reply with "yes"?

 

Soonerfan..

You crack me up!!

You've got that quick Air Force wit..Keep it up!

 

im just trying to figure it out

someone posted 5 days ago with the answer and a pic to help.

yet the guy thought "yes" was gonna help you out

 

I'm the guy who asked for help in the first place...The picture was great!. I saw the "yes" answer too..but didn't reply.. Your reply was perfect!

 

I'm suffering from the same error code. The P0171 arrived shortly after I cleaned the MAF (CRC's MAF cleaner, directions were followed) to correct the problem where the car with erratically stall at random times (especially sitting at a light).

So here's the deal (results of) with MAF cleaning:

1) Car idles normally at lights and does not stall.
2) Gas mileage went up about 2MPG.
3) SES light comes on with P0171.
4) Car hits fuel cut-off between 4500-5000RPM.
5) Even though Chevron Premium (93) or BP/Amoco (93) is used, I'm now getting pinging (valve clatter) under moderate to hard acceleration beyond 2500RPM.

So my questions:

- How did I screw up the MAF (by making it super-squeaky clean?)
- I've read that the faulty MAF can cause the car to not want to go about X RPM (4500 being a common number). Can a faulty MAF also provide excellent idling, good MPG, but screw up mixture to cause the valve clatter?

Thanks.

 

you were cleaning a MAF that already needed to be replaced (you put lipstick on a pig).

get a new MAF

 

At least it was good lipstick. I'll check around for the "real" daveb

 

Rosenthal has the MAF for $78 (www.mazda-parts-dealer.com - They sell Nissan and Mazda parts) Part #22680-2Y001 (for 2000-2001 model year).

What I found (and the Nissan tech confirmed) is that the MAF goes bad (most likely gets dirty, but other things can happen) and one side (bank 1) throws a lean code when in fact both side are lean (due to the bad MAF), but bank 2 is not quite lean enough to throw a code. It's misleading and the OBD codes are more general. The Nissan CONSULT tool actually gives MAF readings for each bank.

 

Rosenthal is cheaper than DaveB? I'd like to keep business in the Family so to speak, but $78 is a really good price for a new MAF.

 

Will the SES light go out after the MAF automatically or should I get an OBD-II scanner to clear the code?

 

The light will go out eventually. You just have to drive around for a bit. It might take a few days depending on your driving habits.

 

According to Nissan, your car needs the lastest ECM software after you put in the new MAF. The deaaler will hose you about a hundred bucks to do that...unless you know it's got the latest software.

 

I just got my brand-new MAF today. I even see the little handy-dandy insert from Nissan talking about the ECM reprogramming. Can I install this new MAF even if my software is out of date (I have no damned clue)? I'd rather install it myself, and then have the ECM version checked out versus taking them the part and getting bent over with them replacing it.

 

If it works, then no, if you have problems, then yes, you need a 'reflash'.

It has been noted that some members have not required the dealer 'reflash', because their car did not have any adverse affects from a new MAF.

 

Any examples of the "no reflash, new MAF" problem?

 

I can sit here and link you endlessly, but that would be useless.

 

Anyone else care to do something other than to tell me how useless my question is? Specifically blowing up a motor...?