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Wilwood calipers: use the red ones they sent me?

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Old 10-15-2007 | 10:27 PM
  #161  
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Irish44j, I'm too lazy to look at the old posts right now, but how did you solve it? Angled shims?
Old 10-16-2007 | 12:33 PM
  #162  
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one word:

"dremel"

get un-lazy, the thread has pics/how-to...
Old 10-16-2007 | 11:05 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
one word:

"dremel"

get un-lazy, the thread has pics/how-to...

Going to get UNlazy now and check.
Old 10-17-2007 | 05:32 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by perkman87
those breaks are sooo pretty
Old 10-17-2007 | 07:01 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
the ones I was originally sent were the 1.38" pistons (the red ones). There have been more than one person on here who tried the 1.38s and had soft pedal and reduced bite, all ended up returning them for the 1.62s which were a considerable improvement.

Here aer a few snippets from other threads:





also Matt Blehm suggests the 1.62 vs. 1.38 - and I can't think of anyone on here with more brake experience/expertise than Matt.

Anyhow, I realize that the overall piston areas for the 1.38 numerically matches up well with the stock piston area, but sometimes there are other factors involved too - such as the design of the caliper, tightness of the cylinder, etc....that could require a different bore size.

I don't think either one is "wrong" but fastbrakes has changed their kit to have teh 1.62 rather than the 1.38, so there must be some reason for it

when you order do I have to ask for the 1.62 or will it come that way
Old 10-17-2007 | 01:15 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by 2kprlmax
when you order do I have to ask for the 1.62 or will it come that way
They'll come that way
Old 10-17-2007 | 04:22 PM
  #167  
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According to they guy at fastbrakes, the only reason he went to a 1.62 is because " the maxima is a bigger car".
Old 10-17-2007 | 06:16 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by ShiftVQ35
According to they guy at fastbrakes, the only reason he went to a 1.62 is because " the maxima is a bigger car".
and your point?

We all know that the maxima comes with insufficient brakes from the factory...hell, they haven't changed the piston size since the mid 90s all the way through the 6th gen...even though the cars gained 500lbs or more during that time....

In any case, the people who have actually used the 1.62 on the maxima all seem pleased with it - so what's the argument?

Nobody is saying the 1.38s won't work (they will), but they won't have the same braking power as the 1.62s in my opinion. It all depends what you want. If you want 1.38s, tell them that' what you want. I wanted the 1.62s, personally.
Old 10-18-2007 | 01:49 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
and your point?

We all know that the maxima comes with insufficient brakes from the factory...hell, they haven't changed the piston size since the mid 90s all the way through the 6th gen...even though the cars gained 500lbs or more during that time....

In any case, the people who have actually used the 1.62 on the maxima all seem pleased with it - so what's the argument?

Nobody is saying the 1.38s won't work (they will), but they won't have the same braking power as the 1.62s in my opinion. It all depends what you want. If you want 1.38s, tell them that' what you want. I wanted the 1.62s, personally.
yes maxima brakes suck. That has been proven many times. I am just saying weight is not the main factor when going with a bigger piston bore 1.38 to a 1.62. You have to consider the master cylinder before the weight of the car.

And I know they work fine. I am using 1.38...
Old 10-18-2007 | 08:13 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by ShiftVQ35
yes maxima brakes suck. That has been proven many times. I am just saying weight is not the main factor when going with a bigger piston bore 1.38 to a 1.62. You have to consider the master cylinder before the weight of the car.
so please tell everyone why the M/C won't work with the 1.62s then, since you have "considered." Because the people with the 1.62s are having no M/C issues that I'm aware of. The primary difference using the two piston bores is going to be in brake feel and pedal travel vs. point of lockup (or ABS kick-in). In fact, there are people here running calipers (non-wilwood) with even larger pistons with no problem on a stock M/C....

Originally Posted by ShiftVQ35
And I know they work fine. I am using 1.38...
No **** sherlock, I was agreeing with you. What do you want, a cookie?
Old 10-19-2007 | 08:52 AM
  #171  
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^^ I am not saying it wont work.
Yes there will be a difference in pedal travel. You will have to press the pedal further with the 1'62. But why do that when you can get 1'38?
Pressing the pedal further = rear brakes starting to work before the front.

And no I dont want a cookie give me a milkshake instead. hmm a chocolate one......
Old 10-19-2007 | 12:02 PM
  #172  
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we have reached an impass here. 1.62 or 1.38 ... no one really cares anymore.
Old 10-19-2007 | 01:21 PM
  #173  
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I should say 1.62 and then lock the thread. Last word, FTMFW!
Old 10-19-2007 | 01:23 PM
  #174  
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let just say it is a matter of preferrence...1.62 or 1.38 both will work. Our maxima rear brakes wear out quicker than the fronts in stock form anyways.
Old 10-19-2007 | 06:12 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Shogunsc4
Our maxima rear brakes wear out quicker than the fronts in stock form anyways.
That's never been my experience...nor any of my friends with A33s..
Old 10-20-2007 | 04:37 PM
  #176  
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Will be installed Monday and give you guys updates...not bad for $745 shipped everything (full fastbrake kit and EBC A34 rotors).
Old 10-23-2007 | 07:03 PM
  #177  
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Wilwood BBK Installation

Ok, here is the update. Finally got it installed. We ran into a problem with the fitment. Everything bolts on just that the rotors DO NOT align center of the caliper (check out the pictures below). The rotors sit quite a few milimeters towards the outer of the calipers. At first we thought we got wrong rotors but checked the model number and it is the correct rotors (EBC model 7220; direct replacement rotors of 04-05 maxima). I think this is the reason the NYC forum seller fabricated his braket with an offset to align the calipers and rotors better. It appears that the fastbrake kit brackets are made for other cars and happen to work just fine for our maximas. Now, a question for Irish, when you install the fastbrake BBK, did you run into the same problem? Is it normal? Is it safe to have the rotors sit to one side more than the other? My mechanic was worried that when the pads wear down...the inner caliper side (the side that has the gap in the picture) pistons would fall out from extending too far out. After bleeding, both pads pushes up against the rotors like normal, just the inner side have the pistons extended out more the reach the pad.




Now, as of Irish's screeching noise...I was scared at the beginning. I got the same noise...very loud but after bedding the pads for about a good 10 miles...it went away...now it is very very quiet . Stopping power is great. Firm pedel feel, feels a little better bite than stock at around 25% pedal, but then if pushed to about >50%...it STOPS! The pedal/braking is very consistent. One thing we have noticed that can be a problem in the future is the caliper flex. The caliper flexes awkwardly when you press the pedel >50%.

Last edited by Shogunsc4; 10-23-2007 at 09:11 PM.
Old 10-23-2007 | 09:56 PM
  #178  
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oh, yeah....in all the noise I forgot to mention that I used a couple large washers to space out the bracket and center the caliper on the rotor.

I *think* they made the caliper offset with the kit because it provides more clearance for wheels. My wheels are 8"/30mm offset so I have tons of clearance, so I recentered them. I suspect they set it up that way so it would clear the OEM Altima SE-R and 6th gen wheel....

As to the concern with pistons falling out, I've heard that mentioned in other kits as well. Wilwood sells thick shims you can put beind the pad when the piston is out more than halfway, to push the piston back in.....

but yes, I agree with you that is why the other guy made the bracket offset like that. I guess it depends on how much wheel clearance you have as to what works best for you.

Glad to hear that the noise went away after hard bedding. I guess I wasn't patient enough (what's new?)
Old 10-23-2007 | 09:57 PM
  #179  
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btw, I didn't feel any caliper flex

they felt considerably stiffer than the aluminum z32 calipers (which are known for their flex vs the iron ones).

Wilwood makes stiffer calipers, the superlites are fairly low-end in their line though.
Old 10-23-2007 | 10:13 PM
  #180  
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so...the pistons DO fall out? Hmm...I guess I will fork out another $150 for the right bracket just to be safe.
Old 10-23-2007 | 10:59 PM
  #181  
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wow.. now i want new calipers up front. hmm 590 for a kit that doesnt center the caliper. and then another 150 for brackets? no fun..
Old 10-23-2007 | 11:06 PM
  #182  
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better be safe than sorry though. I don't want no pistons flying out from my brakes going 80+mph on the highway.
Old 10-24-2007 | 07:42 AM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Shogunsc4
Ok, here is the update. Finally got it installed. We ran into a problem with the fitment. Everything bolts on just that the rotors DO NOT align center of the caliper (check out the pictures below). The rotors sit quite a few milimeters towards the outer of the calipers. At first we thought we got wrong rotors but checked the model number and it is the correct rotors (EBC model 7220; direct replacement rotors of 04-05 maxima). I think this is the reason the NYC forum seller fabricated his braket with an offset to align the calipers and rotors better. It appears that the fastbrake kit brackets are made for other cars and happen to work just fine for our maximas. Now, a question for Irish, when you install the fastbrake BBK, did you run into the same problem? Is it normal? Is it safe to have the rotors sit to one side more than the other? My mechanic was worried that when the pads wear down...the inner caliper side (the side that has the gap in the picture) pistons would fall out from extending too far out. After bleeding, both pads pushes up against the rotors like normal, just the inner side have the pistons extended out more the reach the pad.




Now, as of Irish's screeching noise...I was scared at the beginning. I got the same noise...very loud but after bedding the pads for about a good 10 miles...it went away...now it is very very quiet . Stopping power is great. Firm pedel feel, feels a little better bite than stock at around 25% pedal, but then if pushed to about >50%...it STOPS! The pedal/braking is very consistent. One thing we have noticed that can be a problem in the future is the caliper flex. The caliper flexes awkwardly when you press the pedel >50%.
really nice... actually, even the original wilwood kits have shims and instructions inclueded - that explain how to center calipers. On the other hand... this "other guy's from nycmaximas.org" brakets center calipers without any washers like this:
Old 10-24-2007 | 08:28 AM
  #184  
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blacks look nice.
Old 10-24-2007 | 01:38 PM
  #185  
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my kit didnt have any instruction on how to center it. hmm...would washers do fine or is it safer to get the other bracket?
Old 10-24-2007 | 04:14 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by Shogunsc4
so...the pistons DO fall out? Hmm...I guess I will fork out another $150 for the right bracket just to be safe.
I didn't say that.....Wilwood calipers are used for all kinds of cars. Almost all of them require shimming if the caliper is mounted to maximize clearance for the wheels. The classic car guys have been using wilwood shims for years an years and years, because if they center the calipers, alot of times they won't clear the original/classic wheels.

Originally Posted by dizmax96
wow.. now i want new calipers up front. hmm 590 for a kit that doesnt center the caliper. and then another 150 for brackets? no fun..
the brackets are included. All you need is a couple of 45-cent washers from Home Depot or something...


Originally Posted by L.M.L.
really nice... actually, even the original wilwood kits have shims and instructions inclueded - that explain how to center calipers. On the other hand... this "other guy's from nycmaximas.org" brakets center calipers without any washers like this:
did you read my previous post? The calipers are not centerered as a way to increase wheel clearance for factory wheels......

if people need "instructions" on how to mount a brake kit, they should stick to their factory brakes, because they have no business messing with such an important part of the car.

Originally Posted by Shogunsc4
my kit didnt have any instruction on how to center it. hmm...would washers do fine or is it safer to get the other bracket?
washers will work fine...
Old 10-25-2007 | 06:47 AM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
I didn't say that.....Wilwood calipers are used for all kinds of cars. Almost all of them require shimming if the caliper is mounted to maximize clearance for the wheels. The classic car guys have been using wilwood shims for years an years and years, because if they center the calipers, alot of times they won't clear the original/classic wheels.



the brackets are included. All you need is a couple of 45-cent washers from Home Depot or something...




did you read my previous post? The calipers are not centerered as a way to increase wheel clearance for factory wheels......

if people need "instructions" on how to mount a brake kit, they should stick to their factory brakes, because they have no business messing with such an important part of the car.



washers will work fine...
so... why would then the the original wilwood kits have instructions inclueded...

shim calipers for clerance? really? how much can you get by doing that? 5-7mm? well, imho that's just plain stupid. I'd rather use wheel spacers to do that.. anyway, you can install you calipers any way you want, but! there is only one way to install them properly. so, here is what wilwood instructions say about that.. "view the rotor through the top of the caliper. the rotor should be aligned in the center of the caliper. if not, loosen the two bolts and ajust the caliper by using 0.016 in thick shim washers."
now, even a caveman would realize that.. .. but who cares, right?
Old 10-25-2007 | 09:32 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by L.M.L.
so... why would then the the original wilwood kits have instructions inclueded...

shim calipers for clerance? really? how much can you get by doing that? 5-7mm? well, imho that's just plain stupid. I'd rather use wheel spacers to do that.. anyway, you can install you calipers any way you want, but! there is only one way to install them properly. so, here is what wilwood instructions say about that.. "view the rotor through the top of the caliper. the rotor should be aligned in the center of the caliper. if not, loosen the two bolts and ajust the caliper by using 0.016 in thick shim washers."
now, even a caveman would realize that.. .. but who cares, right?
The Wilwood instructions also say that the calipers are for "off-road and racing use only."

But I'm assuming you drive on the street, don't you?

Just because "instructions" say to do it one way doesn't make it the "only way."

And like I said, people who need installation instructions to know how to install a caliper shouldn't be installing calipers in the first place. Shimming calipers is not unusual and shold go without saying to everyone except morons.
Old 11-04-2007 | 04:08 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by Shogunsc4
my kit didnt have any instruction on how to center it. hmm...would washers do fine or is it safer to get the other bracket?
Instructions are there for a reason. You cant ignore them. If they said you need to shim, then you must do that. The rotor has to be centered in the caliper so all pistons travel an equal distance. And your not going to get a whole lot of clearance for wheels. If your wheels dont clear, then get a spacer that is what they are for. Not shimming just to get clearance for wheels is pointless because like said above therre is onle a couple of mm. Anyway Shogunsc4, did you end up buying those brackets?
Old 11-05-2007 | 01:59 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by ShiftVQ35
Instructions are there for a reason. You cant ignore them. If they said you need to shim, then you must do that. The rotor has to be centered in the caliper so all pistons travel an equal distance. And your not going to get a whole lot of clearance for wheels. If your wheels dont clear, then get a spacer that is what they are for. Not shimming just to get clearance for wheels is pointless because like said above therre is onle a couple of mm. Anyway Shogunsc4, did you end up buying those brackets?
yup. i got those brackets. I'm pretty sure my SSR-C will clear the wilwoods. To be installed wednesday.
Old 11-06-2007 | 01:14 PM
  #191  
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So anyone know the amount of spacers need? 3 x 3mm?...etc?

Also, I'm guessing these won't fit under factory 17x7 40mm wheels right? I don't want to get a seperate wheel and winter tire setup
Old 11-12-2007 | 07:24 AM
  #192  
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Fastbrakes replied with this:

Calipers don't need to be perfectly centered to work properly; we offset the
caliper inward a little to help with wheel clearance. Centering is easy with
the supplied precision washers.
So they DID include spacers?
Old 11-12-2007 | 12:14 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by n3985
Fastbrakes replied with this:



So they DID include spacers?
soounds like that is a lame excuse to me. they dont want to spend more time making specific brackets that center it. all 4 pistons have to move exactly the same
Old 11-13-2007 | 06:21 PM
  #194  
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those brakes are sick did you look into the gran-turismo's by Brembo ? I only ask cause am in the market for brakes also...
Old 11-13-2007 | 08:31 PM
  #195  
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wilwood kit is your best bet at an affordable bbk.
Old 11-13-2007 | 08:57 PM
  #196  
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..........


this is some good info....
Old 11-14-2007 | 02:51 PM
  #197  
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Thanks for the info but any info on the brambo's ?
Old 11-14-2007 | 04:12 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by antonello104
Thanks for the info but any info on the brambo's ?
what do you want to know? you pay for the name.
Old 11-14-2007 | 07:54 PM
  #199  
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Why do you keep posting pictures of your car?
Old 11-14-2007 | 08:10 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by ShiftVQ35
soounds like that is a lame excuse to me. they dont want to spend more time making specific brackets that center it. all 4 pistons have to move exactly the same
how would they "spend more time." The brackets are CNC machined pieces, so I'm sure it wouldn't take any longer or cost any more to offset them.

I think it makes sense to have them off-center to clear wheels. As they come, they might even fit under stock 5th gen wheels with a small spacer. If centered, you need at least an 8" wide wheel with 30-35 offset to clear - a size not too many people use. With them centered, they just barely clear my 2 sets of G wheels (8" wide, 30/32 offset) - and those wheels have ALOT of clearance.

anyhow....it's a free country. If people want them centered, use spacers....or buy another kit


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