How much to replace front axle on 2000 SE?
09-24-2007, 08:45 PM
#6
09-24-2007, 08:46 PM
#7
09-24-2007, 08:51 PM
#8
$150 per axle, they don't charge your CC for the core unless you don't return the core and great customer service and i believe there is a really good warranty with it.
and if you pay someone to install it (which I don't recomend you do), its like 2 hour labor charge.
and if you pay someone to install it (which I don't recomend you do), its like 2 hour labor charge.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 09-24-2007 at 08:54 PM.
09-24-2007, 08:56 PM
#9
It takes me 15 minutes to do a axle.
09-25-2007, 03:52 AM
#11
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Posts: 113
Well I just helped my shop fix one of those insane PC issues. It took about 4 hours to get the PC running right. So the shop owner decided to give me a 4 hour labor credit. To get the axel fixed will cost me just the parts.
Basically when ever I turn to the left in my max, there would be a soft clicking sound coming from the front left tire well.. Also, my steering wheel column is a bit 'soft.' In that when I turn the wheel there are parts where it seems to completely loose resistance...like its floating when turning left to right.......
Basically when ever I turn to the left in my max, there would be a soft clicking sound coming from the front left tire well.. Also, my steering wheel column is a bit 'soft.' In that when I turn the wheel there are parts where it seems to completely loose resistance...like its floating when turning left to right.......
09-25-2007, 09:57 AM
#13
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Location: MIAMI,FL.
Posts: 21
That clicking noise could sometimes just be that the plastic boot is crack and all the grease fell out so it causes the axle to loose lubricant..Maybe u just might need that done .That sometimes might cost as much as a new axle..Up to u
09-25-2007, 01:57 PM
#14
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Unless some idiot tightens some weird looking deffinitly not the original axle nut sooooo tight that with 5-ft of pipe you break a 1/2" drive ratchet and a breaker bar (both craftsmen) and you have to stop what your doing and head out to sears to get butt raped on a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar......... Yeah, that was the story of my day today doing an engine on a '96 I30........
And I'm sure I'm not the only one who spent hours trying to pound/chisel out a passenger side from the support bracket only to later learn the trick of throwing a jack under the front header/y and undoing the entire support bracket........ But yeah, most of the time axles are amazingly easy and shops just overcharge.
And I'm sure I'm not the only one who spent hours trying to pound/chisel out a passenger side from the support bracket only to later learn the trick of throwing a jack under the front header/y and undoing the entire support bracket........ But yeah, most of the time axles are amazingly easy and shops just overcharge.
09-25-2007, 06:51 PM
#15
2 hours of labor, about $60/hour, which is what I paid for both front axles.
10-01-2007, 10:44 PM
#16
My car started making a clicking sound when turning left. It's coming from the right wheel. I took off the wheel and inspected the whole suspension. It was fine. I noticed the inner boot of the CV joint was a little wet by the smaller clamp. I can only think that it is the bad CV joint? can you guys confirm? and my rear motor mount is destroyed 
10-02-2007, 04:37 AM
#17
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I don't think I've ever seen an a32 or a33a/b that DIDN'T have a torn rear motor mount, well I have but they love to chew them to ****. Get the es inserts and install them yourself, asides from the basics you'll need a sawzall, a few beers, a propane tourch, and a sledgehammer.
Sounds like the cv to me, if you grasp both sides of the joint you'll probably feel some play.
Sounds like the cv to me, if you grasp both sides of the joint you'll probably feel some play.
Last edited by KRRZ350; 10-02-2007 at 04:41 AM.
10-02-2007, 07:29 AM
#18
Thanks KRRZ350! I know Place racing and ES mounts are all solid Polyurathane. Is there someone who makes something in between stock and polyurethane ones? can i just replace a rear one with a solid one and leave the fron stock? i guess i just don't want too much vibration at idle.
10-02-2007, 07:56 AM
#19
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IMHO the vibration at idle is barely noticable, it won't bother you one bit, but yes you could do just the rear, I don't know of anyone who makes one halfway between, but you could always buy a stock replacement on E-bay as well
10-02-2007, 09:42 AM
#20
thanks! looks like i'm going to get the ES mounts off the ebay, they are $84 for a set of 2 with shipping. So, i'd torch the metal bracket and get the old one out and then hammer the new ones in? Soory for going a little OT guys 
10-02-2007, 12:56 PM
#21
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I think it's all good, this guy appears to be all set.....
Actually, you torch the rubber, you don't have to completely torch it, just enough that the inner sleeve will come out and it gets all hard and crumbles really easy, you just need enough room that you can stick the sawzall blade inside the mount to cut through the metal sleeve, cut it where the hole is and try to keep it straight so you can see when you are through the sleeve (this will make sense when you are doing it) than the outer sleeve taps out easily, and yes, the sledgehammer is to tap the new one in. Basically, this saves you the hassle/time/expense of having to remove both mounts from the crossmember and bring them to your machinest and than have to pay him like $50 to press out the sleeves and press in the new bushings, you can always go that route as well, personally I think getting to use propane and power tools is more fun
Actually, you torch the rubber, you don't have to completely torch it, just enough that the inner sleeve will come out and it gets all hard and crumbles really easy, you just need enough room that you can stick the sawzall blade inside the mount to cut through the metal sleeve, cut it where the hole is and try to keep it straight so you can see when you are through the sleeve (this will make sense when you are doing it) than the outer sleeve taps out easily, and yes, the sledgehammer is to tap the new one in. Basically, this saves you the hassle/time/expense of having to remove both mounts from the crossmember and bring them to your machinest and than have to pay him like $50 to press out the sleeves and press in the new bushings, you can always go that route as well, personally I think getting to use propane and power tools is more fun
10-04-2007, 06:54 AM
#23
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Unless some idiot tightens some weird looking deffinitly not the original axle nut sooooo tight that with 5-ft of pipe you break a 1/2" drive ratchet and a breaker bar (both craftsmen) and you have to stop what your doing and head out to sears to get butt raped on a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar......... Yeah, that was the story of my day today doing an engine on a '96 I30........
And I'm sure I'm not the only one who spent hours trying to pound/chisel out a passenger side from the support bracket only to later learn the trick of throwing a jack under the front header/y and undoing the entire support bracket........ But yeah, most of the time axles are amazingly easy and shops just overcharge.
And I'm sure I'm not the only one who spent hours trying to pound/chisel out a passenger side from the support bracket only to later learn the trick of throwing a jack under the front header/y and undoing the entire support bracket........ But yeah, most of the time axles are amazingly easy and shops just overcharge.
10-07-2007, 09:04 AM
#24
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 239
I am in the same spot (replacing the axles) as my boots are shredded. There is no clicking noise, but going into winter....may as well get it done. Are Raxles really worth the cash? $150 per plus shipping runs about 330 for both. I can get autozoned for about 150 (probably rebuilt). I am not racing the car and am questioning the logic of the raxles at this stage. Watcha think?
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