Steering wheel shakes while breaking
09-24-2007, 08:09 PM
#2
09-24-2007, 08:20 PM
#5
09-24-2007, 08:28 PM
#9
thread.
to what sooner said.
09-24-2007, 08:33 PM
#10
09-24-2007, 08:40 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pleasanton,CA
Posts: 1,136
I found the best return on investment on steering wheel shake is rotors and sway bar endlinks and tie rods.
Sway bar ends and tie rods definetly is a source of steering wheel shake in high mileage vehicles as was in my case.
Sway bar ends and tie rods definetly is a source of steering wheel shake in high mileage vehicles as was in my case.
09-24-2007, 08:42 PM
#12
09-24-2007, 08:53 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pleasanton,CA
Posts: 1,136
Turning rotors over is a waste of money becoz the rotors have mechanically deformed in one or more locations, it will warp at the same spot again even if turned. Good rotors like brembo blanks come cheap and a great investment, the stock ones were a piece of crap.
When I bought my car new, I wanted to keep it looking new forever, I made my stock rotors even more crappier/warped by taking those free car washes for filling up the tank (the free car washes are now a distant memory, all gas stations charge out here in CA). That is a definte NO NO when the rotors are hot.
Anyway, good luck as others have said the greatest bang for the buck for fixing braking related steering shakes is rotors, then comes tie rods and end links.
When I bought my car new, I wanted to keep it looking new forever, I made my stock rotors even more crappier/warped by taking those free car washes for filling up the tank (the free car washes are now a distant memory, all gas stations charge out here in CA). That is a definte NO NO when the rotors are hot.
Anyway, good luck as others have said the greatest bang for the buck for fixing braking related steering shakes is rotors, then comes tie rods and end links.
09-24-2007, 09:03 PM
#17
check out the GD forum too
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=17
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=17
09-24-2007, 09:25 PM
#18
09-24-2007, 09:34 PM
#20
again, on our cars, the rotors arent actually warped. they SEEM warped because of pad material transfer. "turning" them removes the material. if you get better pads, you wont have the problem again.
09-24-2007, 09:44 PM
#21
Will it cause the problem using two kinds of pads in front wheels?
09-24-2007, 09:57 PM
#23
09-24-2007, 10:02 PM
#24
at the same time?
if you catch the problem early enough, the material transfer isnt that bad and a turn and pad swap should fix the problem.
when i changed my pads, the material build up had gotten so bad that the rotors actually wore unevenly so i had to change the rotors too
look at the outside of the rotor and how the wearline is diffirent
if you catch the problem early enough, the material transfer isnt that bad and a turn and pad swap should fix the problem.
when i changed my pads, the material build up had gotten so bad that the rotors actually wore unevenly so i had to change the rotors too
look at the outside of the rotor and how the wearline is diffirent
09-24-2007, 10:08 PM
#25
at the same time?
if you catch the problem early enough, the material transfer isnt that bad and a turn and pad swap should fix the problem.
when i changed my pads, the material build up had gotten so bad that the rotors actually wore unevenly so i had to change the rotors too
look at the outside of the rotor and how the wearline is diffirent
if you catch the problem early enough, the material transfer isnt that bad and a turn and pad swap should fix the problem.
when i changed my pads, the material build up had gotten so bad that the rotors actually wore unevenly so i had to change the rotors too
look at the outside of the rotor and how the wearline is diffirent
09-24-2007, 10:19 PM
#27
09-24-2007, 10:23 PM
#28
with different pads you are getting different pad material transfer and different pad wear. pads whould be the same brand and installed at the same time
09-24-2007, 10:28 PM
#29
dont go to Nissan...you just need to change both front pads. you can do it yourself or have a brake place do it for cheaper.
with different pads you are getting different pad material transfer and different pad wear. pads whould be the same brand and installed at the same time
with different pads you are getting different pad material transfer and different pad wear. pads whould be the same brand and installed at the same time
09-24-2007, 11:03 PM
#34
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sunny Arizona
Posts: 72
Warped rotors
Your rotors don't get "material transfer." They warp because they get hot. The better the material the rotors are made from, the less likely they are to warp. It also depends on how hard your on and off of your brakes and if they have time to cool down between extreme driving times. If you have the money to buy good rotors, go for it. If not, see if you have enough rotor left to turn and then save up for good rotors later on.
The reason the rotors that you were shown have one side thinner than the other isn't "material transfer." It is because the caliper piston is on the inside of the rotor, and the piston doesn't always release all the way. As a result, the inner brake pad tends to retain more pressure than the pad on the outside of the rotor, thus wearing down the inside of the rotor faster than the outside, not because of "material transfer." Also, look for heat checking on your rotors, small little cracks running on the surface of the rotor. This indicates that the rotors have been extrememly hot.
The only "material transfer" that you get on your brakes is when you glaze the rotor surface, which is when the resin from the brake pads gets so hot that it does transfer to the rotor. This doesnt warp the rotor, it just makes your brakes squeal, and decreases the effectiveness of your braking system. This glaze can be removed by burninshing your brakes, but that is for a different discussion.
The reason the rotors that you were shown have one side thinner than the other isn't "material transfer." It is because the caliper piston is on the inside of the rotor, and the piston doesn't always release all the way. As a result, the inner brake pad tends to retain more pressure than the pad on the outside of the rotor, thus wearing down the inside of the rotor faster than the outside, not because of "material transfer." Also, look for heat checking on your rotors, small little cracks running on the surface of the rotor. This indicates that the rotors have been extrememly hot.
The only "material transfer" that you get on your brakes is when you glaze the rotor surface, which is when the resin from the brake pads gets so hot that it does transfer to the rotor. This doesnt warp the rotor, it just makes your brakes squeal, and decreases the effectiveness of your braking system. This glaze can be removed by burninshing your brakes, but that is for a different discussion.
09-24-2007, 11:09 PM
#35
dude, its a well known and proven fact that our rotor "warp" due to material transfer from OEM pads. the rotors get hot and the inferior material transfers.
i changed my rotors to OEM replacement with Hawk pads...they have around 5K miles on them (including auto-x). there has been no warping and the rotors havent warn unevenly. that proves that the pads were the problem.
i know what im talking about.
i changed my rotors to OEM replacement with Hawk pads...they have around 5K miles on them (including auto-x). there has been no warping and the rotors havent warn unevenly. that proves that the pads were the problem.
i know what im talking about.
09-25-2007, 12:23 AM
#37
09-25-2007, 06:14 AM
#38
You're both right - er, wrong....
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Does anybody know the RUN-OUT VALUE for OEM rotors???
ie: what's the min. thickness on the rotor surface(s) that NIssan allows?
I've got two sets of rotors, and they've BOTH been lathed one-time each.
I'm wondering if I can get one more "slice" off of them before they're shot.
Spare me the "buy new rotors" comments -- I understand all of that. This is my choice. Rotors on my car don't last 10k, even when NEW, and with Hawk Pads.
Must be my "late-braking" stylie.....
gr
09-25-2007, 06:25 AM
#39
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Clifton Park, NY
Posts: 4,035
Your rotors don't get "material transfer." They warp because they get hot. The better the material the rotors are made from, the less likely they are to warp. It also depends on how hard your on and off of your brakes and if they have time to cool down between extreme driving times. If you have the money to buy good rotors, go for it. If not, see if you have enough rotor left to turn and then save up for good rotors later on.
The reason the rotors that you were shown have one side thinner than the other isn't "material transfer." It is because the caliper piston is on the inside of the rotor, and the piston doesn't always release all the way. As a result, the inner brake pad tends to retain more pressure than the pad on the outside of the rotor, thus wearing down the inside of the rotor faster than the outside, not because of "material transfer." Also, look for heat checking on your rotors, small little cracks running on the surface of the rotor. This indicates that the rotors have been extrememly hot.
The only "material transfer" that you get on your brakes is when you glaze the rotor surface, which is when the resin from the brake pads gets so hot that it does transfer to the rotor. This doesnt warp the rotor, it just makes your brakes squeal, and decreases the effectiveness of your braking system. This glaze can be removed by burninshing your brakes, but that is for a different discussion.
The reason the rotors that you were shown have one side thinner than the other isn't "material transfer." It is because the caliper piston is on the inside of the rotor, and the piston doesn't always release all the way. As a result, the inner brake pad tends to retain more pressure than the pad on the outside of the rotor, thus wearing down the inside of the rotor faster than the outside, not because of "material transfer." Also, look for heat checking on your rotors, small little cracks running on the surface of the rotor. This indicates that the rotors have been extrememly hot.
The only "material transfer" that you get on your brakes is when you glaze the rotor surface, which is when the resin from the brake pads gets so hot that it does transfer to the rotor. This doesnt warp the rotor, it just makes your brakes squeal, and decreases the effectiveness of your braking system. This glaze can be removed by burninshing your brakes, but that is for a different discussion.
Stop typing if this is the crap you are going to put up...
The Material transfer is a well known reason for the brake pulsating on stock Maxima brakes.
09-25-2007, 06:32 AM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Clifton Park, NY
Posts: 4,035
As for the AGE-OLD debate:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Does anybody know the RUN-OUT VALUE for OEM rotors???
ie: what's the min. thickness on the rotor surface(s) that NIssan allows?
I've got two sets of rotors, and they've BOTH been lathed one-time each.
I'm wondering if I can get one more "slice" off of them before they're shot.
Spare me the "buy new rotors" comments -- I understand all of that. This is my choice. Rotors on my car don't last 10k, even when NEW, and with Hawk Pads.
Must be my "late-braking" stylie.....
gr
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Does anybody know the RUN-OUT VALUE for OEM rotors???
ie: what's the min. thickness on the rotor surface(s) that NIssan allows?
I've got two sets of rotors, and they've BOTH been lathed one-time each.
I'm wondering if I can get one more "slice" off of them before they're shot.
Spare me the "buy new rotors" comments -- I understand all of that. This is my choice. Rotors on my car don't last 10k, even when NEW, and with Hawk Pads.
Must be my "late-braking" stylie.....
gr
IMO, I don't like turning rotors ever... By the time I have the actual need to do such, they have been on the car for a few years and have seen better days. I just invest in new rotors, they are cheap enough.
If you have turned them once, I would not waste your time doing it again. IF you brake that hard, you will kill them in no time since they will be so much thinner than brand new rotors.