Need help fast....HID wiring problems
Need help fast....HID wiring problems
So I got an h4 HID kit. The kit came with the ballasts, connectors, bulbs and the two wire casing things. As you can see in the pictures, I am having a hard time figuring out why the when I plug in the red and black prongs into the stock power plug connector and then the other black wire coming from the black wire with the prong (I'm guessing is the ground wire) is grounded......I don't know why they won't turn on.
I'm guessing none of that made sense
As you can see in the pictures, the kit only came with 2 prongs (red and black) to fit in the 3 pronged stock power plug housing.....how does that work?
The smaller black wire coming off the black wire with the prong.....I grounded that on the bolt shown in the picture (between the screw and bolt)......
To make matters worse, now my headlights don't work with just the stock lights in...... I need some help
*sorry for the horrible quality pictures, I can't my digi cam


I'm guessing none of that made sense
As you can see in the pictures, the kit only came with 2 prongs (red and black) to fit in the 3 pronged stock power plug housing.....how does that work?
The smaller black wire coming off the black wire with the prong.....I grounded that on the bolt shown in the picture (between the screw and bolt)......
To make matters worse, now my headlights don't work with just the stock lights in...... I need some help
*sorry for the horrible quality pictures, I can't my digi cam


*I highly recommend you test the H4 plug with a volt meter.* I've blown a fuse when testing my custom harness for my retrofit project, and I think you did too which is why your headlights don't work. You'll need two 15 amp fuse to restore your OEM headlights. You should have a spare in the fuse panel above the hood release.
If you do get these HIDs running, when you switch to your high beams, the HIDs will cut off.
Our H4 harness is a common positive meaning one of the wires in that harness will always be supplying +12 volts. Now based on your drawing of the H4 plug, the bottom should be the low ground, top right should be the high ground and top left the +12 volts. Because you stated that this HID kit is low beam only, you are require to use the +12 volts and low ground(top left and bottom). So the red prong insert in the top left and the black goes to the bottom. Bolt the third wire to the chassis.
*I highly recommend you test the H4 plug with a volt meter.* I've blown a fuse when testing my custom harness for my retrofit project, and I think you did too which is why your headlights don't work. You'll need two 15 amp fuse to restore your OEM headlights. You should have a spare in the fuse panel above the hood release.
If you do get these HIDs running, when you switch to your high beams, the HIDs will cut off.
*I highly recommend you test the H4 plug with a volt meter.* I've blown a fuse when testing my custom harness for my retrofit project, and I think you did too which is why your headlights don't work. You'll need two 15 amp fuse to restore your OEM headlights. You should have a spare in the fuse panel above the hood release.
If you do get these HIDs running, when you switch to your high beams, the HIDs will cut off.
I think you may have the wire from the bulb to the ballast upside down, flip that over and try to turn them on again.
they have kits now that "telescope" back and forth in such a way that they can Keep your High and Low beam function. (i have a kit like this on my motorcyle)
they have kits now that "telescope" back and forth in such a way that they can Keep your High and Low beam function. (i have a kit like this on my motorcyle)
Our H4 harness is a common positive meaning one of the wires in that harness will always be supplying +12 volts. Now based on your drawing of the H4 plug, the bottom should be the low ground, top right should be the high ground and top left the +12 volts. Because you stated that this HID kit is low beam only, you are require to use the +12 volts and low ground(top left and bottom). So the red prong insert in the top left and the black goes to the bottom. Bolt the third wire to the chassis.
*I highly recommend you test the H4 plug with a volt meter.* I've blown a fuse when testing my custom harness for my retrofit project, and I think you did too which is why your headlights don't work. You'll need two 15 amp fuse to restore your OEM headlights. You should have a spare in the fuse panel above the hood release.
If you do get these HIDs running, when you switch to your high beams, the HIDs will cut off.
*I highly recommend you test the H4 plug with a volt meter.* I've blown a fuse when testing my custom harness for my retrofit project, and I think you did too which is why your headlights don't work. You'll need two 15 amp fuse to restore your OEM headlights. You should have a spare in the fuse panel above the hood release.
If you do get these HIDs running, when you switch to your high beams, the HIDs will cut off.
Last edited by aw89maxSE; Oct 12, 2007 at 10:03 AM.
Our H4 bulbs are dual filament, low beam/high beam. When you turn on your low beam, the +12 volts and the low ground completes the circuit powering the bulb on the low beam setting. When you turn on your high beams, the low beam disengages beam the high ground is used to complete the circuit. Go to the HIDPLANET University section and read up on harnesses and circuits.
Yeah, it's narrow box next to the battery. It should have a diagram on or inside the cover.
and also, I need to get some ring terminal connectors...does it matter if they're insulated or not? Someone told me not to get insulated ones, but I was double checking.
Last edited by aw89maxSE; Oct 12, 2007 at 11:37 AM.
.....and to keep from blowing them again, does it matter if i disconnect just the negative power cable to the battery or the positive as well. My positive cable is a bi*** to get on and off
and also, I need to get some ring terminal connectors...does it matter if they're insulated or not? Someone told me not to get insulated ones, but I was double checking.
and also, I need to get some ring terminal connectors...does it matter if they're insulated or not? Someone told me not to get insulated ones, but I was double checking.
Be prepare for the possibility that even if you wire them up correctly, they still may blow a fuse.
Get the insulated terminal connectors. You can leave the positive side connected. People say you should disconnect the negative cable to be safe. I get lazy sometimes and leave the neg connected. The fuse will not blow when you wire them up. It's when you turn on your headlights and the incorrect wiring.
Be prepare for the possibility that even if you wire them up correctly, they still may blow a fuse.
Be prepare for the possibility that even if you wire them up correctly, they still may blow a fuse.
Last edited by aw89maxSE; Oct 12, 2007 at 02:51 PM.
I don't think a higher wattage fuse would matter. The fuse blowing would mean improper connection to the harness or the kit is poorly made.
I'm surprised you didn't get the Helios H4 bi-xenon kit they got going in the group deal section.
I'm surprised you didn't get the Helios H4 bi-xenon kit they got going in the group deal section.
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