So the past few days I have been working on this and I must say am very happy with the mod...it was completely free and I don't feel a drastic change but the top-end has definitely improved a little. I also polished the outside so now the manifold looks chrome and painted the blockoff plate a sort of flat black...I really like the way it looks and performs. I would recomend this to anybody looking for a good cheap mod...only took about 2 1/2 hours to actually cut the shelf out and then some more time to smooth everything out. The longest part was the polishing of the outside but I think it's worth it. I only have two pics of the inside and it's right after it was cut out, so it's pretty rough, also I will post pics up on Wednesday of it on the car, it looks just as good as a Kinetix...

Here are the pics:

 

W/o an extended rev limit and/or CVTC remap, your car is probably a little slower.

 

Looks good, but it would look better if I knew which part of the manifold I was looking at. I would have to assume (of course not knowing much about this mod) that thats the part closest to the TB.

 

I really don't want to do anything like that just yet...but probably in the future...

 

Here are some pics of it on the car...I still have some more polishing to do but I just couldn't wait to put it on the car so that will be when I put on my headers and spacers.

 

Any reason why?

 

Well I really would like to get my headers and spacers before I start doing any ECU mods...also how do you remap the CVTC??? I never did understand, like is the L-spec drive-by-wire remapping do that? I just don't want to spend a lot of $$$ to extend the rev-limiter and I don't know how much the CVTC remapping is...

 

Too bad I don't have CVTC

muahahaha.

 

Add timing to compensate for the small losses. VQ35IM principle probably goes the same for you guys too, just that us A33B crowd has one more option to make up for the small losses incurred. (IGN & CVTC)

 

And how per say would I do that option???

 

Plug & Play:
TS F-spec

Decent amount of wiring:
EMB/EMU/UTEC

Some wiring for AFC only, injectors drop right in:
AFC + larger injectors

Some fair work on the fuel system:
AFPR

 

was it F-spec or L-spec?

 

you need to do a little more work in there, that shelf needs to come all the way out, even the part serving cyls 5 and 6. make it look real clean and itll work best

 

Well that was right after I cut it out...I smoothed it out more and it's more cut out now...but thanks for the tip. Did you think you noticed any difference with yours???

 

yeah, like everyone else there is a top end gain, and a small low end loss. but with a 6pd i dont spend a lot of time down there when going fast anyway so i dont notice. overall i like it, pulls hard near redline. but in the doubdters defense, my VAFC is at -10 for a lot of my powerband so i get a lot of timing, which would combat the low end losses.

 

He asked about timing, so I stated F-spec, since L-spec only gives extended rev limit, not timing.

F-spec = FULL
L-spec= LIMITED

FYI: -10% doesn't do a whole lot for timing. 1-2*.

It's a mod and must be treated as so, as in 'tuned' to be optimal, whether it be timing/AFR/ etc, that's all my point was/is.

 

i thought sr-20 was running -15 or so with his higher flow injectors and was getting ~ 8*? obviously my memory of his minus figure is off a lot.

afterthought: the timing advance dyno showed ~ 3hp through the entire graph with 2 extra degrees of timing (plus a pretty sizeable torque gain in the mid). thats not significant in one spot, but over the entire rpm band...

it certainly doesnt make up as much as 8* or some vtc work would though

 

He was @ -28%, but even then it's not a direct relation and shouldn't be compared as so. I30tMikeD did a comparison of it too, though it was the other way, it's another rough indication that -/+% isn't a direct relation to EXACT timing advance/retard. The engine takes into account many other items aside from MAF V in order to dictate IGN timing.

I have the 2* BTDC advance you speak of that was dyno'd for 3 said hp, a TS-F-spec(+4-6*), and -12-15% (+2-3*) on the AFC, even then I think I'm still a few * shy of SR's curve, but quite advanced compared to the average stock curve.

I have a couple of timing curve comparisons re: F-spec only compared to -12-15% on the AFC + F-Spec. There's a small difference (+2-3*). That's why I stated what I did about -10%. If I get bored this weekend, I'll find the graphs, overlay 'em and post 'em.

 

wow -28, i need to look at my vafc manual more closely. have to check what % i can go and possibly think about ways to up the afpr for relatively cheap...probly will just wait till i can afford bigger injectors. well see. will be tuning my phenolic spacers and hitting the track the sunday after thanksgiving. hopefully the conditions are good

 

Upping the FP isn't as easy as it is with a 4th gen. You would need to essentially convert the fuel system to a return style in order to toss in an AFPR.

Or, get inside the tank/pump and adjust it from in there (built in regulator). I haven't triesd this myself just yet, so I cannot speak much on the subject.

I don't think the spacers will need a 'tune'. But a good idea anyhow.

 

Heres a question...I am for sure getting some Cattman headers, but I can either get an SAFC-2/VAFC-2 or I can get the spacers...which do you think will be the wise choice??? (of course I will be tuning the AFC)

 

If I were you, I'd allocate some funds for a dyno prior to getting anything more done.

 

You could just try to get a set of cheap DE-K injectors or stock RWD VQ35 injectors. The guys on my350z are practically throwing away their stock injectors.

 

I also agree with someone's post earlier that more could shaved off from the inside closer to the runners. See if you can find Jime's old pictures on here because he did a pretty job cutting away the entire shelf.

 

get a proper dyno with AF reading first, then see if you need an AFC. My money would be on yes.

Btw, isn't all this information in here anyway?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=362937

 

Semi outdated with some new info that is not there, but is on the forum. But, really, who reads the first page of the stickys?

IBwhoreadsthestickysanyway.

 

You want to update it for me?

It still has basic information on headers + AFC or not, etc.

 

It's only nit picking really, but the new OBX or other used to be shorty designs, are new and improved. Although I can't think what EXACTLY it was right now, and don't feel like searching just yet, but they did improve the collector design to what seems to mimic HotShots. The thing I can't remember is if they forgot to do the same to the y-pipe (make it equal length).

Also, my primaries didn't fit and I got lazy and didn't extend them, so i plugged the 2ndaries in the primary bung on the headers. Anything under horrifically light load and below 1200 is affected (a smudge rich and semi clumsy), but the idle and all else (WOT) is still fine/smooth.

Also, for people trying to upgrade their MAF will fare a little better with the SAFCII since the VAFCII has not definitively proved to us that it can do it in the manner as the SAFCII. This is in relation to the IN/OUT settings which allow the AFR to remain the same as it was prior to the MAF upgrade. Same goes for the NEO, it has not proven itself on 2 fronts.

1.) Is whether or not it can be manipulated like the VAFCII and have double the amount of correction points.
2.) Same question comes up regarding the SAFC IN/OUT settings which would allow you to upgrade the MAF housing, but not worry about AFR corrections as much.


And you need to update/fix the links (plug in OLD or get the 'new' ones).

 

Thanks. Maybe over Thanksgiving, but I've just moved and have no internetz at home.

 

You can use the neo with a larger maf, it will allow you to change the maf settings same as the SAFC II .I read some posts a while back about the IN/OUT settings you where playing with when you where changing out your maf.I changed my settings to the recommendations you gave to the guys using the SAFC II and it worked like a charm. Made it a whole lot easier to start my car on these cold mornings especially since I don't have my IACV hooked up.Never got the chance to thank you though. On the correction points it only has 16.You can't double up the HI/LO settings.The LO correction points are only good for interpolation so I didn't even set them since they do me no good a WOT. Don't know how much better the neo is than the SAFC II or VAFC II but the display sure is pretty.

Sorry for getting the tread off topic.

 

what did u use to polish the manifold?????

 

Well since there is information everywhere about the original subject, and the OP knows what he must do in order to optimize his set-up, I think this conversation deserves greater attention for the community as a whole.

So,

Ok, I'm sure you're aware of the VAFCII manipulation that has been done and done successfully, correct? Use VTEC HI/LO settings and piggy back them, basically. http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...79&postcount=1

Because from you're telling me, it seems as if you're referring to the HI/LO throttle settings and not the lvt settings.

 

i just mean correcting the afr if it has changed.

i plan to check on the vafc in/out this weekend. ill log some afrs with the out changed wrt the in. when i changed it before the car would run like butt, so i know it changes something

 

Of course the IN/OUT's will change the AFR and will cause it to run very rough, what exactly are you getting at here?

 

just this

 

So what you're saying is you have an upgraded MAF?

 

If your MAF 'upgrade' still allows you to take % AWAY, and you are still w/ 1:1 IN/OUT #'s, it's should NOT be considered an upgrade.

When I first fit my upgrade on my engine, I was @ 18.0-19.9(off the scale) AFR, running rough as all hell. Bogging/bucking. This was w/ 1:1 settings.

In short, I don't think your experience applies in this situation as your upgrade isn't much, if any.

 

im not plannin to test and leave it there, i just want to see if the changes will yield a constant % difference or a numerical difference. if its a constant difference anyone should be able to use it for their upgraded maf. if i change the settings i should see the same idea of a difference that you did when you changed yours.

what i want to know is if im running 13:1 or something, then change the setting to 1:2 will i get a constant 11:1 or something. if i do, then anyone with an upgraded MAF would obviously be able to use the vafc for that

 

A whole slew of settin combinations have been tried using the VAFCII + LRMAF with no success up to this point.

 

Ok so I was driving today about 3 days after I put it on and out of nowhere the SES light comes on, it's the P0301 (misfire in cylinder 1), do you think this could have anything to do with the IM or just a quisedence and I just need new plugs? Did any of you other guys get a code with the SSIM?