Sorry if I'm repeating another thread, but everything is really hard to find now in the new site. I'm looking for some help on what to do about getting to P1320 and also one of the P0302 or something code. I researched it so its basically about replacing ignition coils on my maxima. I just wanted to ask those who've had their coils replaced or changed, if it was a difficult job, or something the dealership will need to take care of? And what is everyone's feelings about changing just the one that is broken or all 6. And another thing, I know prices are subjective to area and location, just wanted to see what kind of prices everyone is paying for the coils and those who had the dealership take care of it, how much it cost with the labor as well. Thanks for all your help!

 

I've done it myself, not hard at all. Simple tools and some patience. Any mechanic can do it if you don't want to do it yourself.

Common wisdom says to change all 6 but I had one code, replaced that coil and have had no problems since. They are easy (the rear bank is a bit more of a pain but doable). Should run a mechanic 1-2 hours.

 

How many miles do you have? might as well replace the sparks at the same time.

 

I've got about 84000 miles on it right now. Can anyone link to the post that actually shows how to change ignition coils, the DIY link isn't working and when I used that oldpost thread out there, it still couldn't find the link. Thanks for all your responses

 

this should help show you how to take them out...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=338587

 

on a 2000, its easy to do. might as well change all six coil packs and plugs at the same time.

order the coils from daveb. on the 3.0, the rears are different from the front so make sure you order 3 of each.

 

I did it on my 2000 SE 18mos ago at around 90k. Very easy to do with just a ratchet and a universal joint. Change all 6 coils and plugs while your at it. I ordered my stuff (coils & plugs) from DaveB. Local dealer wanted horrendous amounts of money for the job (approx $900 total). I did the whole job in 45minutes for about $400-500. I can't remember which cylinder it is, but only one is tough to reach, hence the universal joint.

If you can use a screwdriver and ratchet, you can save hundreds.

Carlos

 

First you must be happy you got 80K off the coils, mine started throwing the codes once I hit 60K. As 00MaxSEinRI said, get the coils from DaveB (all 6 of them, don't go fixing one after the other), he is the right person with the latest updated coil packs. You could go to ur local stealership and he will quote you 50% more than Dave's quote. Coming to replacing coils, it is quite easy on the 5th gen and you should order the plugs too while ordering the coils.

It is one of the most rewarding (though expensive, close to $400) fixes I did to my 2000 max. Never had any ignition related issues in the last 70K miles.

 

Thanks a lot all, I did order from DaveB and I received the package today, so I will try to either do the job this weekend with some help from my dad. I think the coils are not too bad, the thread on top gives good instructions, never changed plugs before so my dad will help with those. Thanks for all your help guys.

 

cylinder 5 is the difficult one, the one in the middle of the back row.

I'm about to do this procedure myself. My #2 died about a month ago and I just replaced that one. Now I'm coming up with the same symptoms so I'm pretty sure another coil has died. I'm going to get the codes run from Autozone again just to make sure and this time around I'll contact Dave B and get the rest of the coils and spark plugs.

 

Like they said, change the plugs while you're at the coils.

TIP (If they help)
1. Use putty/playdough in the socket while putting in the rear coils to help hold in the bolt so that you can put it into the car w/out dropping it. I had a terrible time trying to fit my fingers down in there and not drop the screw. This little trick seemed to help. You can also use it after loosening the bolt and when you want to take it out but can't grab it, put some in the socket and push down on the bolt, it seems to hold it ok till you get it out.
2. You may want a magnetic stick to get your screw after you drop it! hehe.
3. I ended up taking off a couple of brkts that I think just held some cables on the driver rear coil since they were just in my way too much. If you find that to be your case, just take them off. I fought w/ them way to much before I took them off.
4. I fought w/ the coils in trying to get them to break loose off the plugs. I struggled w/ them on the rears bigtime but that was becuase I just couldn't seem to grab it and hold it tight enough to pull it off the plug. I kept persisiting, and finally I won. I found no tricks, but others have not seemed to have that problem.

Hope it helps.

 

OMG, I just finished doing the whole job, I think the front took about 15 minutes for all three. Simple, thats why I actually started in the back. I had the exact same problems you had. I didn't have any putty around, figured I just be careful, and dropped the screw in the bad. That was a terrible terrible time, I didn't have a magnet, so instead i went fishing, and with my sausage like fingers, it was quite painful and time consuming. I did fight the coils for the back as well, it just takes a long long time. I don't know why our rear coils are engineered this way when the front is so easy, I had a front strut bar that I actually had to remove before I even started on the rears, that was a pain, anyway, thanks for all your help guys. I just found our my brakes are failing as well, I guess Christmas time for my max, are just to fix her up all around. But the brakes, I don't know about doing these myself, I'm thinkin about letting someone else do it, the cuts around my fingers and hands tryin to fight the rear coils is tellin me to just find someone LoL. Anyway, I drove the car round the block twice and it seems better, so coils do help. Thanks again everyone!!!.

 

I don't think that's number 5. A google search turned up 3 different answers for the cylinder numbering. Can someone clear this up?

 

sorry about that, it's actually #3...it still is the one in the middle of the back row though. I think the numbering goes something like...

1 3 5
2 4 6

if you're facing your car