Transmission spiking during shift from 2nd to 3rd, please God not a rebuild..........
It was the valve body that fried my tranny. Known issue according to the dealership. Bought a used tranny for $500 shipped NC to MN paid $400 to install it and its running like a champ again.
I was meaning to start a thread with a review but Ill just add to this.
I had the same issues as the OP and decided I would start with what some say is the last resort. I pulled my valve body and took it in to http://www.txchange.com/ for a Transgo shift kit (http://www.transgo.com/rpg_nissan.php). The reason I did this first is because it was something that I wanted to do even if it didnt fix the slipping. I was then going to get the solenoids and/or TCM next. But as it turns out, it fixed my flaring from 2-3 and now I have quick, firm shifts. No more slipping, period. This thing kicksdown quick when given some throttle and shifts great through the gears.
The kit comes with detailed instructions but as for something this complex I left it to the pros. I was billed $360 for the rebuild. Something like $135 for the kit and $225 for labor. I imagine it is similar to Maxtuning's VB mod and close to the same price. Any good tranny shop should be able to install this kit.
There are a couple of seals and springs in the box that are internal to the tranny but I haven't had an issue yet without them (knock on wood). It also comes with a cork type pan gasket but its kind of folded around the inside of the box and I already had an OEM gasket so I didnt use it.
I would definitely recommend a VB mod for all automatics and especially those that may have slipping. I cant guarantee that it will fix it but you will want it anyways for when your tranny does get fixed.
Link to write up for pulling VB. http://www.vqpower.com/v2/infusions/...?article_id=60 I think the red bolt with the ground on the bottom of the picture for step 6 does not need to be removed to pull the VB. I cant remember for sure.
VB all cleaned and rebuilt:
Whats left in the box:
And of course the HP adding sticker:
I had the same issues as the OP and decided I would start with what some say is the last resort. I pulled my valve body and took it in to http://www.txchange.com/ for a Transgo shift kit (http://www.transgo.com/rpg_nissan.php). The reason I did this first is because it was something that I wanted to do even if it didnt fix the slipping. I was then going to get the solenoids and/or TCM next. But as it turns out, it fixed my flaring from 2-3 and now I have quick, firm shifts. No more slipping, period. This thing kicksdown quick when given some throttle and shifts great through the gears.
The kit comes with detailed instructions but as for something this complex I left it to the pros. I was billed $360 for the rebuild. Something like $135 for the kit and $225 for labor. I imagine it is similar to Maxtuning's VB mod and close to the same price. Any good tranny shop should be able to install this kit.
There are a couple of seals and springs in the box that are internal to the tranny but I haven't had an issue yet without them (knock on wood). It also comes with a cork type pan gasket but its kind of folded around the inside of the box and I already had an OEM gasket so I didnt use it.
I would definitely recommend a VB mod for all automatics and especially those that may have slipping. I cant guarantee that it will fix it but you will want it anyways for when your tranny does get fixed.
Link to write up for pulling VB. http://www.vqpower.com/v2/infusions/...?article_id=60 I think the red bolt with the ground on the bottom of the picture for step 6 does not need to be removed to pull the VB. I cant remember for sure.
VB all cleaned and rebuilt:
Whats left in the box:
And of course the HP adding sticker:
Overall your rebuild is much cheaper then the buying another tranny and plus with that rebuilt there's a mod.
So how much did the whole thing cost you? I mean the shipping and the rebuilt bill?
I pulled my valve body and took it in to http://www.txchange.com/ for a Transgo shift kit
I was billed $360 for the rebuild. Something like $135 for the kit and $225 for labor.
I was billed $360 for the rebuild. Something like $135 for the kit and $225 for labor.
Great thread.. I had a recent 3-2 downshift that spiked on me the other day, but it was an isolated incident and happened only with me flooring the car from 45ish.. Glad to hear most of you guys getting out W/O full swaps.
Bump... Looks like I have obvious tranny issues... car wont get past 80 and wont downshift to 3 if I slam it down on the freeway. RPM spikes with no speed increase.. All lower speed shifts seem fine but not on the freeway lol...
More info:
All up shifts are pretty much the same (stock slop)
When I hit my brakes I notice a little pulse in my shift ****.. I was told its the lock disengaging, but seems a bit off.
Update: This morning drove the car with no problems on flooring it at or around 80.. Caught the gear and shifted normal.. Seems like an electrical issue, but I wanted to narrow it to either a solenoid or a TCM.
Is there a distinct difference on symptoms like listed below??
"Hi, So you guys all know I just had this issue with my 2k. If you have a slip or long shift from 1-2 or 2-3 it is a know issue and needs the shift solenoids replaced which can be found for roughly 250-300 all over the net. And the sudden rev when changing gear is needing a new TCM which is about 450-550 depending on where you get them."
I'll keep reading threads, but wanted some fresh opinions.
Thanks,
More info:
All up shifts are pretty much the same (stock slop)
When I hit my brakes I notice a little pulse in my shift ****.. I was told its the lock disengaging, but seems a bit off.
Update: This morning drove the car with no problems on flooring it at or around 80.. Caught the gear and shifted normal.. Seems like an electrical issue, but I wanted to narrow it to either a solenoid or a TCM.
Is there a distinct difference on symptoms like listed below??
"Hi, So you guys all know I just had this issue with my 2k. If you have a slip or long shift from 1-2 or 2-3 it is a know issue and needs the shift solenoids replaced which can be found for roughly 250-300 all over the net. And the sudden rev when changing gear is needing a new TCM which is about 450-550 depending on where you get them."
I'll keep reading threads, but wanted some fresh opinions.
Thanks,
Last edited by Norkoastal; Jul 31, 2008 at 07:59 AM.
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 232
From: Medford, NJ
Another, cheaper option I did was to get the stealer to do a reverse flush transmission fluid change. 
Seems my 3-4 shifts tightened up afterwards yet, the fluid only had about 40,000 miles on it.
Might be gunk or particulates causing the flare-up between 2 & 3.
Thanks
Seems my 3-4 shifts tightened up afterwards yet, the fluid only had about 40,000 miles on it.
Might be gunk or particulates causing the flare-up between 2 & 3.Thanks
Although my tranny fluid looks good might as pan drop/swap it to analyze... If the metal is clean it sounds like 1 of three culprits. If I eventually need the VB done its getting modded for sure..
My transmission has been spiking when shifting from 2nd to 3rd like the OP's. After reading this thread, it sounds like it is most likely (and hopefully) my TCM. I did a flush with Amsoil ATF about a month and a half ago, but my transmission was actually doing this last winter too when it was cold, but usually stopped once it was warmed up...my car has almost 77k on it. It only spikes when I am driving at normal (semi-conservative) speed consistently, and when I'm going fast it usually shifts fine. This is another reason I believe it's the TCM. My main question here is, if my car is still under extended warranty, should the dealership replace this at no charge?
Actually, I'd suspect the valve body too. Could be when cold fluid is getting past an O-ring or check ball that swells when warmed up and the problem ends. Someone else was having the same issues, put in the TransGo shift kit and said he hadn't been able to get it to slip since.
Usually, if the problem is the clutch packs, the problem is worse when the car is fully warmed up. Seems everyone's problem is when the car is cold. Someone even mentioned in the fluids forum that after installing a transmission cooler, his transmission starting flaring on upshifts when cold.
Usually, if the problem is the clutch packs, the problem is worse when the car is fully warmed up. Seems everyone's problem is when the car is cold. Someone even mentioned in the fluids forum that after installing a transmission cooler, his transmission starting flaring on upshifts when cold.
would i get flamed for bumping this old thread?
so did anyone actually replace the solenoids and see any noticeable improvements?
I'm on the border line and really confused as to what i should do.....
so did anyone actually replace the solenoids and see any noticeable improvements?
I'm on the border line and really confused as to what i should do.....
Last edited by denny_1986; Feb 14, 2009 at 09:51 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 147
From: Baltimore, MD
hey i have an 00 max with kinda the same Problem.
Mine shifts very hard from first to second, and Slips from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs up very high, then it snaps in. When i floor it, it just revs up very high, almost redline, forcing me to take my foot of the gas before it snappes in. i took it to Amaco yesterday and they drove it, and said "its an internal problem, and we would have to take the whole tranny out, in order to figure out what is wrong exactly" so i asked how much that would cost, and he said $1600 at the minimum..
Umm Please Help, cause $1600 is definatly not in my budget.
Mine shifts very hard from first to second, and Slips from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs up very high, then it snaps in. When i floor it, it just revs up very high, almost redline, forcing me to take my foot of the gas before it snappes in. i took it to Amaco yesterday and they drove it, and said "its an internal problem, and we would have to take the whole tranny out, in order to figure out what is wrong exactly" so i asked how much that would cost, and he said $1600 at the minimum..
Umm Please Help, cause $1600 is definatly not in my budget.
hey i have an 00 max with kinda the same Problem.
Mine shifts very hard from first to second, and Slips from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs up very high, then it snaps in. When i floor it, it just revs up very high, almost redline, forcing me to take my foot of the gas before it snappes in. i took it to Amaco yesterday and they drove it, and said "its an internal problem, and we would have to take the whole tranny out, in order to figure out what is wrong exactly" so i asked how much that would cost, and he said $1600 at the minimum..
Umm Please Help, cause $1600 is definatly not in my budget.
Mine shifts very hard from first to second, and Slips from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs up very high, then it snaps in. When i floor it, it just revs up very high, almost redline, forcing me to take my foot of the gas before it snappes in. i took it to Amaco yesterday and they drove it, and said "its an internal problem, and we would have to take the whole tranny out, in order to figure out what is wrong exactly" so i asked how much that would cost, and he said $1600 at the minimum..
Umm Please Help, cause $1600 is definatly not in my budget.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1
Hello There,
Well first sorry about my english, I am from Panama and english is not my mother language.
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima S.E I bought from a friend who brought it from The States. Since in Panama we have very limited parts for these cars I think i have a bit of a problem.
There is the thing:
The car has over 80,000 miles on it and I have a transmission problem. I start the car and let it heat itself for about 1 or 2 minutes... When i put the transmission in "D" for drive it would start in "firsr" i believe and then it would shift to "second", however, it would not shift to third or fourth or fith.
If I let in on "D" it would shift back to "first" and stay there, does not matter it I hit the gas or whatever I dot to it.
In "first or "second" it does not have a problem but it is a PAIN IN THE REAR to have that problem, I can only ose it to go from Home to the office.
Can anyone tell me whats going on with it??? should I bee looking at replacing the transmission???? Since its an automatic transmission, can i switch to stick shift??? how much would it cost me???? any places where I can find out??? Pleasae keep in mind I am NOT in or from The States so I dont know....
If anyone can provide some assistance it would be highly appreciated.
epineda@frcpanama.com is my e-mail... +(507) 60706589 is my mobile number... or my BB Pin is 20D93CE2
Well first sorry about my english, I am from Panama and english is not my mother language.
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima S.E I bought from a friend who brought it from The States. Since in Panama we have very limited parts for these cars I think i have a bit of a problem.
There is the thing:
The car has over 80,000 miles on it and I have a transmission problem. I start the car and let it heat itself for about 1 or 2 minutes... When i put the transmission in "D" for drive it would start in "firsr" i believe and then it would shift to "second", however, it would not shift to third or fourth or fith.
If I let in on "D" it would shift back to "first" and stay there, does not matter it I hit the gas or whatever I dot to it.
In "first or "second" it does not have a problem but it is a PAIN IN THE REAR to have that problem, I can only ose it to go from Home to the office.
Can anyone tell me whats going on with it??? should I bee looking at replacing the transmission???? Since its an automatic transmission, can i switch to stick shift??? how much would it cost me???? any places where I can find out??? Pleasae keep in mind I am NOT in or from The States so I dont know....
If anyone can provide some assistance it would be highly appreciated.
epineda@frcpanama.com is my e-mail... +(507) 60706589 is my mobile number... or my BB Pin is 20D93CE2
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