I havent had a chance to look at it yet, but my wife said she was driving yesterday and went to stop and the car shuddered really bad while braking and felt like it was having problems stoping. Said the pedal was pulsating while stopping. I figure its ABS related.
20 minutes later she calls to say the ABS light is on.
I go to take her for a spin last night, and the car has no power whatsover. When you take off the car revs to 2k then barely starts to move. So either I have a locked up Caliper, or something else is wrong, and or she also burned up a clutch or something in the automatic if she did have a caliper lock up and probably kept driving.

Its an 02 with a tick over 100k on the odo.

Anyone else have this issue, I hope to check it out this weekend.

 

most likely a mass air flow sensor, might be coils but i'll put my money on the maf. Does the car idle weird

 

from the owners manual

If the light comes on while the engine is
running, it may indicate that the anti-lock brake
system is not functioning properly. Have the
system checked by your NISSAN dealer.
If an abnormality occurs in the system, the
anti-lock function will cease but the ordinary
brakes will continue to operate normally.
If the light comes on while you are driving,
contact your NISSAN dealer for repair.

so it seems the loss of power isnt related to the light but a separate problem. like stated above, probably MAF and/or coils.

 

Actually I wouldn't be suprised if it is related (Or if it's not)............ A fuxord wheel sensor could be causing the TCS to kick in. I'd scan the ABS codes as per the FSM, and go from there. For the meantime, disconect one of the wheel sensors (engine bay - inside of strut tower) To deactivate ABS & TCS.

 

I havent had a chance to scan the system yet, however I did just do a visual check etc. Everything looks normal. Wife just told me the brake problem was yesterday, the slowness has been almost 2 weeks..unrelated issues but back to back.

I noticed the AT Check light flashing like crazy, will check that as well. Hopefully just a flush, filter and refill will fix that.

Dang cars..

 

Alternator...

 

Old thread FTL.


Since I'm here...

Once a malfunction is detected, the TCS & ABS will stop working.

 

I got the same problem.Only when i wash the car. My left rear caliper is locked up. haven't got it done yet.

 

What is the problem? ABS light turns on, and your car has no power? And you think it is because of a dragging caliper?

 

How is it going infinitiblast. I have the same problem with my 2002 maxima. I was driving to work and the same thing happened. After that it was fine for a while. Now when i'm driving my brake and battery light comes on and the car looses power for a few seconds and then continues fine. My AT light flashes like crazy as well. I took it to my mechanic and he pulled the codes. It's getting a P0733.
P0733/1105/N/A (2) ........................ A/T 3rd Signal ratio. It's something to do with your transmission.

 

Your problem is a little more complex. Th AT light flashing means you have tranny problems.

 

I had that problem looked at by a Transmission place. Was getting P0733 code. They rebuilt the transmission. I was driving today and the ABS, Brake and Battery light came on and the car just lost power. I pulled on side of the road and turned the ignition off and then the car drove just fine. I"m going to call the transmission place because after 2000 i'm having the same problems.

 

Generally, a transmission code is an electrical/solenoid problem, not an internal mechanical problem.

P0733 Gear 3 ratio Incorrect-possible that is a bad 3rd gear clutch pack but more likely a bad sensor or solenoid.

I know on my 626, a similar code meant the speed sensor was bad and it would cause my transmission to drop out of overdrive and shift really hard and pop an SES light. Once I'd stop at a light, it would work fine (which sounds similar to you turning off the car and then it works fine) but the SES light would stay on a day or two. Could be the lack of power is a limp home mode of some sort.

Too late, but always go to a few transmission shops and get estimates. Some will rebuild a transmission knowing the code doesn't call for that, then soak you on the electrical fix too.

 

Thank you for that information. So I should have just had the shifting solenoids replaced instead?

 

The shop should have at least tested them to eliminate them as a problem before tearing into the transmission. Usually, you have major slippage off the line or when the transmission shifts up or down when it needs a rebuild. So many electronic/computer controls now you really need a qualified specialist to properly diagnose the problem.

 

They told me that they were going to test them. Thats ok, because I will be up there on Monday. I have a transmission leak now as well. They also said they did a reflash, what is that? Thats why they claim they need to keep my car there an extra day because they couldn't get it to reflash.

 

Well I was driving my car on yesterday and noticed that my RPM's were about 4000 when I was at 70 mph. SO i figure the car was riding in 3rd gear. Well when I was riding the car jerked and the rpms dropped to 2200 and it finally went into 4th gear. Every since that, the car has been riding better than it did originally. Also the transmission fluid isn't leaking anymore. I"m not sure if it just needed time to break in, i'm not sure but she is back to rolling baby.

 

Had this problem before I'm 110% sure it's your alternator