Axle replacement
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,136
From: Pleasanton,CA
Axle replacement
I hear thud-thud sounds coming from the passenger axles and want to get them replaced. I had a torn boot and had the boot alone replaced sometime ago, though on hindsight I must have just replaced the entire axle with the miles I had on the odometer.
I know raxles are quite quoted here among the org community, are there any other ones that would do a job similar to OEM. With all these maintainence costs on my aging maxima, I want to put some axles that aren't way expensive nor way cheap tooo..
Also are there any BKMs to follow. I have an auto, what could I expect when putting the old ones off the tranny, any puddle of ATF etc., things to watchout while getting the old ones out etc.
I know raxles are quite quoted here among the org community, are there any other ones that would do a job similar to OEM. With all these maintainence costs on my aging maxima, I want to put some axles that aren't way expensive nor way cheap tooo..
Also are there any BKMs to follow. I have an auto, what could I expect when putting the old ones off the tranny, any puddle of ATF etc., things to watchout while getting the old ones out etc.
I used the Auto zone ones. They are fine as i see + life time warranty. I spoke with a local 4th gen owner i went to school with, he used Raxles and they broke after a while so he just said go with auto zone and get them replaced for free if they break again. I'm with you, since the car has as many miles as it has i dont want to spend an arm and a leg on parts. about 2.5 months and it runs great.
you wont have any tranny fluid leak if you're an auto. Also if you do get the auto zone axles the huge bolt that they use is larger than the OEM one. i ended up using the OEM one instead, 33 or 34 mm is what i remember. and get a breaker bar, i broke my large huskey ratchet getting that dang thing off. other than that make sure you keep all the bolts in one spot and if you decide to take the strut off the brake area to make it easier to take out the old axle check the nut on top of the strut as mine got loose and created a knocking sound for a month over small bumps until i figured it out.. :I
well good luck! take it slow and have an extra car around in case you need to run to the store. :P
how to i followed:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
you'll do everything except the re greasing part, and change both sides at once
you wont have any tranny fluid leak if you're an auto. Also if you do get the auto zone axles the huge bolt that they use is larger than the OEM one. i ended up using the OEM one instead, 33 or 34 mm is what i remember. and get a breaker bar, i broke my large huskey ratchet getting that dang thing off. other than that make sure you keep all the bolts in one spot and if you decide to take the strut off the brake area to make it easier to take out the old axle check the nut on top of the strut as mine got loose and created a knocking sound for a month over small bumps until i figured it out.. :I
well good luck! take it slow and have an extra car around in case you need to run to the store. :P
how to i followed:
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
you'll do everything except the re greasing part, and change both sides at once
Last edited by Maxima112; Feb 5, 2008 at 09:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,136
From: Pleasanton,CA
I have a few choices here...
1) EMPI , $116 (R) and $95 (L).
2) OEM (which incidently is EMPI in a Nissan box) $709/each. The stealership quoted this price and I told him "f..ku" and slammed the phone down.
1) EMPI , $116 (R) and $95 (L).
2) OEM (which incidently is EMPI in a Nissan box) $709/each. The stealership quoted this price and I told him "f..ku" and slammed the phone down.
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