Memphis2k1

Hey all,

My 2001 Maxima GXE (no traction control) is dead every 4 days. My MAIN questions is: do 2001's have a BCM or is everything interior controlled by the Smart Enterance Control Unit, SECU. Pulled my deck out to find a black box below it that says AT on it. I believe its the TSU, not a 100% sure.

I have been working with the guys over at the12volt forums as well.

Here is what I have:
-Aftermarket in-dash DVD player
-2 amps (sub & speakers)
-AstroStart 5204 remote start with alarm
-Bypasskit key immobilizer PKN2
-PAC SWI-X (steering wheel controls for my aftermarket deck)
-1 Year old Exide Orbital Battery (Gel type battery)
-Less than 6 month old 130A Higher output alternator (stock is 110A)

Here is what I have done.
NAPA tested the battery yesterday and it still has well over 90% charge to it.

I found out how many amps (mA) my car is drawing 130-150ish (mA). These results are when my car is UNLOCKED & unarmed. Locked could be different.

I tested it for (ma) two ways, first was the negative approach. I tested the amps using an Extech multi-meter was to hook the black tester lead to the (-) neg battery terminal (disconnected the (-) neg battery. And then postive tester lead to the vehicle cable ground, set the multi to (mA).
Second way (which I'm now now) is going through the positive lead.

Summer has never been an issue, but I guess I may have driven my car a lil more often during the summer months. Heck, sometimes I don't even turn my stereo on in the winter. I don't drive my car daily, and when I do its rather short. But, I'm mostly concerned about the (mA) drain rather than other factors. Did some searchs and people have replaced there BCM with a new one and that seemed to work.

Ok: (mA) levels
150(mA) before I started
~ -15ish(mA) for my AstroStart
~ -15ish(mA) for my deck
~ -mid 70ish(mA) when I disconnected all 3 connectors from the SECU!!! I went from around 150ish to 70's
~both amps are disconnected, no drain
~-1 for my remote start bypasskit
~nothing for PAC SWI-X

I do have some cheap LED lights all over my car.

Can SECU goes into "sleep" mode when the car is unlocked?

I have uploaded a 3 page PDF of my SECU connectors. The connector in question that causes the 70(mA) surge starts at PIN 49 on Page 2/3.
http://www.adjenz.com/Upload/Print%20Screens/SECU.pdf 287KB's
The only obvious wire on the harness that is hooked up to anything (from the Remote start) is the Trunk Lid opener actuator, PIN 63

Its the last connector on the SECU (3rd), 2nd Grey one that is jumping it from 30 to 100mA.

I have no idea on the ECU, clock, or anything else the car needs to power stock, but with everything disconnected I'm in the 30's (mA)

Update: If I remove #13 fuse, Room whatever fuse, it goes to the lower voltage. Making some progress... I have removed half of my LED bulbs and that doesn't seem to help yet.

User 12822

iTrader: (1)

Alternator?

Memphis2k1

I guess I could take it to AutoZone and have them test it, but when I drive it and I test the battery afterwards, I can tell the alternator is working.

I just need to understand the drain first

NisTech

First thing open drivers door and unplug switch or tape it so you can leave door open and do your diagnosis without waking up SECU V IMPORTANT

Your SECU will shut down all circuits ie lights horn locks memory seat etc, that come stock with your vehicle. I believe spec is 15-25mA parasitic draw for whole car.
150 ma is hudge, 10 times more than it should. so instead of draining in 30 days it will drain in 3 days.
Leave meter hooked up close all doors and take key off ignition and all loads from vehicle and SECU should go in sleep mode in 30 mins. After that get your starting reading.
What i suspect is that it's something aftermarket and most likely alarm or imobiliser as it's hooked up to your emergency lights and possibly horn when as when you unplug SECU (that controlls lights) draw goes down half. However that is still very high
Next what i would try is unplug fuses starting with your aftermarket alarm etc and see if total draw goes down After you done with all aftermarket start unplugging harneses on all 3 fuseboxes and if draw goes down you know it's a circuit in that fusebox.
Then with your meter on windshield observing reading unplug one fuse at a time and onserve the draw.

I am sure you can fix this as you already went a long way
I may have helped you save a grand in diagnosis right there as electrical diagnosis is time consuming and could get very expensive at hourly rate
If you have any questions you can email me in case i won't check this again
Bogdan_rcu@yahoo.com

NisTech

ups havent seen the second half of your post thought it was a sticky. 30 ma seems a lot better. What fuse is that room dome light or what?
If you have ESM ( i dont here) look at that fuse diagram and what it controlls and you will have to unplug everything one by one, including switches.
You have removed half of your LEDs? how about all and you may have solved your problem
At least you are lucky your car starts with all this stuff on it. You have no idea on how many ppl come in from private shops with no start.
We had this guy who had made his own harness lol and after 2 days we told him to rip everything out and come back. Just a nightmare. We actually had one master custom installer from another shop come in to assist and he scratched his head too he said "not worth it"

NisTech

pin 43 and 49 is power source and ground for SECU itself so it would be something after the SECU.
ALso a possibility that the SECU might have less resistence than normal on some circuit internal and cause a draw but go with the circuits first and eliminate them and then the unit. You can even swap a unit at a meet for testing purposes even if you wanted if all your circuits check out ok.
But remove your dome LEDs first though

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

Thats a waste of time, if you want to see if your alternator is working just turn your car on and unplug the positive on your car while its runing, if it continues to run then its something else no point in pulling it out

choiiiiiiiiiii

iTrader: (20)

stop listening to music super loud when the car is not running.

NisTech

That is the worst thing you can ever do.
Car battery stores energy but also acts as a sponge preventing your vehicle from having extreme voltage spikes.
If you unplug your battery charging system voltage could spike up to more than 100V and frying your controle modules etc. before the regulator could even pick it up.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

if that happens, theoretically, your fuses should go before any of the computer module. Thats the whole point of those fuses there, otherwise, why would you even bother with them if they won't protect your electronics from voltage spikes. (espesially ones that are high enough to damage the electronics)

NisTech

fuses blow because of amperage increase. (rated in Amps)
Theoreticly or not would you take a chance and rely on your fuses to prevent damage to on board modules to do an A.V.R.test?
That's the first thing i was told in EL charging class.
BTW it has happened so they are talking from precedent.
Even if you reverse boost a vehicle your main fuse should go i had replaced a few so far but i know some instances that that has fried fome ECM and PCMs too.