Synthetic in an oil burning 3.5?
02-13-2008, 07:43 PM
#1
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Synthetic in an oil burning 3.5?
Ok, so my 3.5 liter burns a lot of oil... approx. 1 quart per month. I really do enjoy high-rpms, and could really use the extra protection that synthetic oil provides. However, I heard that using synthetic oil in an already oil burning engine can make the problem wose. Is this true, or what have been people's experiences with using synthetic oil in an oil burner?
02-13-2008, 07:57 PM
#2
1qt/month , means something different for everyone, i.e., 1 quart / how many miles?
I don't currently have an oil burner and use synthetic w/no ill effects. My VQ30 is 13 years old w/ 240k and doesn't burn a drop of synthetic either so, that's my 0.02$
I don't currently have an oil burner and use synthetic w/no ill effects. My VQ30 is 13 years old w/ 240k and doesn't burn a drop of synthetic either so, that's my 0.02$
02-13-2008, 08:04 PM
#3
switch to castrol gtx or another good dino oil...try switching up to heavier weights if your current temps permit. I recommend 10w-30 even in the winter ONLY as long as your temps do not drop below 0*. You dont want to go too heavy of a weight at the same time b/c oil will have a harder time flowing throughout the engine.
Few people here made the switch FROM syn. TO dino and noticed less oil consumption
Few people here made the switch FROM syn. TO dino and noticed less oil consumption
02-13-2008, 09:09 PM
#10
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switch to castrol gtx or another good dino oil...try switching up to heavier weights if your current temps permit. I recommend 10w-30 even in the winter ONLY as long as your temps do not drop below 0*. You dont want to go too heavy of a weight at the same time b/c oil will have a harder time flowing throughout the engine.
Few people here made the switch FROM syn. TO dino and noticed less oil consumption
Few people here made the switch FROM syn. TO dino and noticed less oil consumption
anybody else have experience with synthetic in their oil burner to compare to dino oil?
Last edited by wyche89; 02-13-2008 at 09:16 PM.
02-14-2008, 02:15 PM
#14
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Your engine may burn synthetic at a higher rate than conventional oil, because its a better lubricant overall. Its not correct to say that it is making the problem worse though. If you ran synthetic for 2 months then switched back your oil consumption would return to the same amount as now.
Either way, synthetic is a better lubricant, and you should consider it if you can afford it. It may pass through your engine faster, but its still a better lubricant. Alternatively, one of the high mileage blends could be a good solution, too.
Either way, synthetic is a better lubricant, and you should consider it if you can afford it. It may pass through your engine faster, but its still a better lubricant. Alternatively, one of the high mileage blends could be a good solution, too.
02-14-2008, 04:22 PM
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02-14-2008, 04:27 PM
#16
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Your engine may burn synthetic at a higher rate than conventional oil, because its a better lubricant overall. Its not correct to say that it is making the problem worse though. If you ran synthetic for 2 months then switched back your oil consumption would return to the same amount as now.
Either way, synthetic is a better lubricant, and you should consider it if you can afford it. It may pass through your engine faster, but its still a better lubricant. Alternatively, one of the high mileage blends could be a good solution, too.
Either way, synthetic is a better lubricant, and you should consider it if you can afford it. It may pass through your engine faster, but its still a better lubricant. Alternatively, one of the high mileage blends could be a good solution, too.
02-14-2008, 06:23 PM
#19
You think you have oil burning issues? I had a 1974 Z/28 that burned a quart of 60w oil every 40-60 miles.
I had bought the car with personalized plates already on the car...L88-Z28 and it turned out the 2nd owner put an L88 427 in the car and bracket/street raced it while the original engine, an L82 350, sat in his garage for a couple years. He ends up getting another car (Vega, I think, I got this info second hand) for the 427, put the 350 back in and the car ended up on a used car lot where I bought it. Pulled great (4 speed, headers, intake Holley 3310, 3.73 posi) but I could fog mosquitos when I punched it.
I ended up selling it to a friend of my now-ex wife, he never check the oil and blew the engine up, put the cam through the back of the engine and holed the block, then left it on the side of the road and told me I could have it back. Ended up parting it out since my ex was writing hot checks all over town and I couldn't afford to rebuild the engine.
02-15-2008, 10:52 AM
#20
Why mask/patch the problem by switching weights? Also, 10-30 will 'burn' as easily as 5-30 when heated.
Originally Posted by pmohr
Move along, nothing to see here. NmexMax and I have had our fun.
02-15-2008, 05:04 PM
#21
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5w30 and 10 w30 have the same viscosity when at normal operating temperature. That's what 30 stands for. The 5 or 10 (first letter) is a flow coeficient tested in a lab at low temperature (minus something forget the nr.) So you want the first number to be a 5 so you get proper lubrication on your galleys piston skirts camshafts and chain area etc when cold. You do not want your oil to be thicker when cold. Now if you burn a hudge amount of oil and wanna go beyound of what the manufacturer has tested as adequate lubrication for your engine components when hot and it's TOLERANCES you can use 5w40 weight oil. However i would recommend against that as it might not flow as good to lube your critical engine components resulting in even more damage.
Oil burning is a normal process of combustion and certain manufacturers consider anything less than 1L/1000 kms perfectly normal for their high compression and high revving motors. That includes the German manufacturers
Oil burning is a normal process of combustion and certain manufacturers consider anything less than 1L/1000 kms perfectly normal for their high compression and high revving motors. That includes the German manufacturers
02-15-2008, 05:09 PM
#22
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5w30 and 10 w30 have the same viscosity when at normal operating temperature. That's what 30 stands for. The 5 or 10 (first letter) is a flow coeficient tested in a lab at low temperature (minus something forget the nr.) So you want the first number to be a 5 so you get proper lubrication on your galleys piston skirts camshafts and chain area etc when cold. You do not want your oil to be thicker when cold. Now if you burn a hudge amount of oil and wanna go beyound of what the manufacturer has tested as adequate lubrication for your engine components when hot and it's TOLERANCES you can use 5w40 weight oil. However i would recommend against that as it might not flow as good to lube your critical engine components resulting in even more damage.
Oil burning is a normal process of combustion and certain manufacturers consider anything less than 1L/1000 kms perfectly normal for their high compression and high revving motors. That includes the German manufacturers
Oil burning is a normal process of combustion and certain manufacturers consider anything less than 1L/1000 kms perfectly normal for their high compression and high revving motors. That includes the German manufacturers
02-15-2008, 05:18 PM
#23
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you would give it a try. It cannot be much more than dino if it even does matter.
I run synthetic too in a 3.5 and burn a qt every 2K and the more you high rev the more you burn. I could have gotten a free engine under warranty as a Nissan tech for free but opted not to as it is normal for these cars to burn oil. Many times we do swaps and they still burn.
Have you checked if your rear rockercover was leaking internally inside the spark plug tube? ALso change your PCV as a long shot.
I run synthetic too in a 3.5 and burn a qt every 2K and the more you high rev the more you burn. I could have gotten a free engine under warranty as a Nissan tech for free but opted not to as it is normal for these cars to burn oil. Many times we do swaps and they still burn.
Have you checked if your rear rockercover was leaking internally inside the spark plug tube? ALso change your PCV as a long shot.
02-15-2008, 05:21 PM
#24
I suggest you use Mobil1 High Mileage 10w-30. It might not help with the fact that you're burning oil, but it will not hurt the car. I have a rotary engine car, and the inside of the engine looks great - and rotaries actually inject some oil into the combustion chamber.
Dave
Dave
02-15-2008, 06:30 PM
#25
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you would give it a try. It cannot be much more than dino if it even does matter.
I run synthetic too in a 3.5 and burn a qt every 2K and the more you high rev the more you burn. I could have gotten a free engine under warranty as a Nissan tech for free but opted not to as it is normal for these cars to burn oil. Many times we do swaps and they still burn.
Have you checked if your rear rockercover was leaking internally inside the spark plug tube? ALso change your PCV as a long shot.
I run synthetic too in a 3.5 and burn a qt every 2K and the more you high rev the more you burn. I could have gotten a free engine under warranty as a Nissan tech for free but opted not to as it is normal for these cars to burn oil. Many times we do swaps and they still burn.
Have you checked if your rear rockercover was leaking internally inside the spark plug tube? ALso change your PCV as a long shot.
02-15-2008, 06:37 PM
#26
i have not checked the rear rockercover for leaking into the spark plug holes, but i figured that could be a possible problem.. is a rockercover the same thing as the valve cover? cause i heard those can leak... and how do we replace those? i remember looking for a writeup on howto replace the valve cover, but couldnt find one
Just unbolt the old one, put the new one in place and bolt it back up...
Requires removal of the UIM, but that takes maybe 10 minutes. Follow the first part of the guide here - http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=89
Disregard the EGR as 02-03 don't have external EGR systems. You also don't need to remove the TB.
After that, remove the coils and anything else obstructing the VC, then R&R.
02-15-2008, 07:19 PM
#27
Yeah I don't understand that either? After working at an oil change place for like 5 years I noticed that cars that recommended 5-30 year round and used 10-30 actually burned more oil. Like stated above the first number is the low temp viscosity and you need the 5-30 to properly lubricate when your engine is cold. Its funny how all the old schoolers think..." you burn oil, just put in a heavier weight!" Sure for an outdated, obsolete pile of single cam american v8 that only lasts for like 50-100 k. But truth is everthing on ours cars was designed to run with a certain oil for a reason. Technology has come a long way and a heavier oil than what is recommended, cold or hot will cause more problems than it will do good for our cars and any newer car. Don't change the viscosity, change the quality of what you're putting in if you want longevity out of you engine!!
Last edited by jblinga; 02-15-2008 at 07:36 PM.
02-16-2008, 03:41 PM
#29
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Yes, 'rocker cover' is an older term for the valve cover.
Just unbolt the old one, put the new one in place and bolt it back up...
Requires removal of the UIM, but that takes maybe 10 minutes. Follow the first part of the guide here - http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=89
Disregard the EGR as 02-03 don't have external EGR systems. You also don't need to remove the TB.
After that, remove the coils and anything else obstructing the VC, then R&R.
Just unbolt the old one, put the new one in place and bolt it back up...
Requires removal of the UIM, but that takes maybe 10 minutes. Follow the first part of the guide here - http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=89
Disregard the EGR as 02-03 don't have external EGR systems. You also don't need to remove the TB.
After that, remove the coils and anything else obstructing the VC, then R&R.
02-16-2008, 04:02 PM
#30
02-17-2008, 08:15 AM
#31
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...everthing on ours cars was designed to run with a certain oil for a reason. Technology has come a long way and a heavier oil than what is recommended, cold or hot will cause more problems than it will do good for our cars and any newer car. Don't change the viscosity, change the quality of what you're putting in if you want longevity out of you engine!!
02-17-2008, 05:08 PM
#33
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02-17-2008, 08:33 PM
#34
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yes, it's in there. IIRC cliffs are: the 0w40 european blends that are hard to come across are preferred by the oil burners, err, aka rev-up owners. But someone might want to double check me on that.
01-15-2009, 02:25 PM
#35
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I'd burn 1 qt per 1200mi,
changed oil with castrol 5w30 conventional, and a bottle of mucas synthetic stabilizer, and wouldn't you 2000-2500mi later the dipstick hasn't lost a drop.
Also no foaming or lights, contrary to bob the oil guy a.k.a(schaeffers+autorx spokesmodel) research.
Remember to use the synthetic stuff. I could be a fluke case but it's worth a try considering all this oil burning hysteria.
changed oil with castrol 5w30 conventional, and a bottle of mucas synthetic stabilizer, and wouldn't you 2000-2500mi later the dipstick hasn't lost a drop.
Also no foaming or lights, contrary to bob the oil guy a.k.a(schaeffers+autorx spokesmodel) research.
Remember to use the synthetic stuff. I could be a fluke case but it's worth a try considering all this oil burning hysteria.
01-15-2009, 05:03 PM
#38
01-15-2009, 05:15 PM
#39
Mine burns it at the same rate it did when I got it 30,000 miles ago. A quart every 1700-2000 miles depending on how I drive.
01-15-2009, 05:45 PM
#40
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yeah... i mean, i do drive fairly aggressively as far as shifting at high rpms.. usually between 3-4k.. and alot of spirited driving... considering that, is my rate of oil consumption still considered abnormal?