Anyone ever have a problem with the engine not revving. Even in neutral the engine wont rev past 1500rpms +/-. Any ideas of what this might be?

Maf may be unpluged or bad. Check that out first.

while we're on the topic of engines, not revving i have a question.. not to hijack the thread or anything, but my 03 6 speed wont rev past 3k in neutral.. when in gear the car revs and drives completely fine... is that non-revving in neutral normal?

MAF sensor .....

but that's exactly what you're doing



OP: sounds like MAF. They're known to go freqently on the Max. Buy a new one and try cleaning your old one. May work in which case you can return the new one. May screw things up more in which case you install the new one.

.................

Does it feel like the engine just cuts out (like fuel cut) once you get to 1500rpms? Maybe it's in limp mode? Have you tried pulling out any codes that may be in there?

Any recent work done by you or anyone...

+1 for most likely maf?

MAF......

+123 MAF

which cleaner can we use to clear the MAF?

Same this happing with me it feel like fuel cut out i but if i hit it Full It Start gettin speed after a While

lol.. but it's just one question! i'm not trying to start a whole conversation and shift most of the attention from the original topic to my topic.. that would be thread hijacking in my opinion

CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Got mine at Pep Boys.

great, thx.

Thanks for the help guys. Here is what I found last night.

I tapped on the MAF and another sensor inline in the air intake little and I shook some wires a little on it. The car then seemed to run fine. However, I still have a 'service engine soon' light that is on. (Sorry, I forgot to mention the 'service engine' light in the original post.)

I'm unaware of what 'limp mode' is, but that seems like a good way to describe it. It didn't feel like a fuel cutoff problem. Throttle progression was linear all the way to the floor. It just didn't have any power. My first thought was that a throttle sensor was all out of whack. So does this sound like 'limp mode'? If so what triggers that?

There has not been any service done since an oil change 3000 miles ago. (time to change again)

How do I check codes?

What year is your car? If it is an 02-03, does it rev to 1500 fairly quickly, then just stop, or is it just PAINFULLY slow and linear from idle to1 1500?

The codes would help a lot. Best thing to do is to take it to AutoZone or have a friend who has a scanner scan it for you.

But if it is what I think it is, you cannot get to AutoZone safely. My guss is that you have an 02-03, and one of your 4 TPS sensors(APPSx2, TPSx2) is out of wack.

Also, there is oftentimes a mix up between safe mode and limp mode. Safe mode is typically a dead MAF and wont rev past 2500 RPM. This is fine since it will rev there rather quickly, and you can get from point A to point B fairly quick. In limp mode, however, the throttle will react VERY slowly and only open to a maximum of IIRC 10%, not safe, not ideal for absolutely anything.

There is a way to check for ECU codes with out a scanner. If you've got time, DL the FSM here:
www.vq35de.com/ESM.

There have been a few on here to get codes from it, it's just semi painful, and a little tedious.

Make sure, you have an 02-03 w/ eThrottle prior to taking anything here to heart.

My Maxima is a 2002. As I recall the rev to 1500+/- was painfully slow and relatively linear. It felt like someone put gear lube in the crankcase or something.

Will the codes still show since it seems to be functioning correctly now? The Check Engine Light is still on however.

Any idea which page to look at to find how to check the codes?

I had an identical problem recently on my 2K2 so I am going to help you out.
What you describe almost certainly sounds like limp mode as it is exactly what my car did in limp mode.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....217&highlight=

Without question, the FIRST thing you need to do is pull the codes. See the link below. Follow the ECU reset procedure except stop after step 4. Your CEL will be blinking at you, then pause for a second, then blink more. Count the blinks between each set of pauses and write the numbers down. Continue to do so until the blinking sequence repeats itself. These are your codes. This is very easy but you need to follow the timing closely (i.e. use a stop watch). Report back with the codes once you have them.

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

People will say MAF but without the codes at this point, that is still very speculative.

My codes were P1122 & P1126. By referencing the FSM, I discovered that P1126 automatically puts the car into limp mode. This code points to the "Throttle Control Motor Relay".

FWIW, my problem also disappeared on its own and has not returned since the weather got a little warmer. Regardless, I have a new relay on order which I will keep close by because I am sure the problem will come back at some point.

This post reiterates what I posted, so you have another supporter.

Found out which code (sensor) is malfunctioning and give it the attention it needs.

When I got a raw voltage data feed, I was able to see exactly which of the 4 sensors was out of spec, and was able to fix it. It turned out it was my SAFCII wiring causing it, but this does not seem to be the case here.

i had the exact same problem with it not revving past 1500rpm. its happened to me twice over the last year and a half. Both happened when it was -30C or colder...just happened a couple days ago, haven't got a chance to run the codes yet. But if it was a bad MAF would the problem still resolve itself and function completely normally? Because the last time this happened to me was over a year ago.

It's not a bad MAF.

Did you happen to 'hit' the gas pedal hard. I had that happen. It iwas a recall to the gas pedal stop. After the 'limp mode' , the engine would not rev past 1500, but after letting it rest for about 1 hour I restarted it. The cel was on, but the car ran fine. Check the code, if it is call with Nissan for the fix. Good Luck

Rocketsled, please pull the codes and report back.....I would love to know if you have the same two engine codes that I had. In both instances it happened to me, the temperature was also below -30C. If you have the exact same codes, we may be able to identify a cold-weather related problem inherent in the Max that our US friends will never run into.

Where are you located Rocketsled? I am guessing Canada because you talked about degrees C and because I don't think there's too many US locations that will see -30C.

Sounds like I need to get out there and pull my codes. I tried earlier but I didn't have any luck. I didn't realize you had to count the blinks. On my Jeep the codes display in the odometer. I'll try the codes again.

After your car fixed itself did you still have the check engine light on?

Also, you might be onto something about the cold weather. I'm in ND and when it happened it was probably about -20F.

The check engine light will remain on for a certain amount of "cycles" after the problem disappears. If the problem does not return, the CEL will eventually clear itself but it takes awhile.

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I believe even if the CEL disappears the codes will be stored until the ECU is reset.

Very interesting about the cold weather there too.......I am waiting patiently to find out what codes you and rocketsled pull.

Please do be patient. I have a sick baby in the hospital (preme in the NICU) and my Maxima is just going to be sitting for a while until I can check it.

Any ever think that maybe the small amounts of moisture on the gummed up butterfly is causing it to freeze up and when the motor tries to turn it that's where things go wrong? That gets my vote. (DO NOT CLEAN YOUR E-GAS THROTTLE BODY)

Valid reasoning on that one. I've been down to about -6ºF (-21ºC) so far this winter and have not had any start-up problems, and do not have my TB coolant hose going through there.

I clean mine every time I clean my K&N & MAF sensor.

It's important to see what code you get and that will tell you if the problem is at the pedal or at the TB.

I'll rephrase that:

Several members have had their E-gas pedal junked by manually moving the butterfly, cleaning is not recommend per the FSM.

BigFly_2K2SE, i'm from winnipeg. I haven't codes yet, will in a couple next weeks and get back to you guys. And yes, cold start, she started fine, drove 10 mins to the grocery store, turned it off for 10 mins, came out, started it(car was still somewhat warm) and she wouldn't rev up.....managed to get her home. left it for 2 hours, and it started fine. Later that night i had it warmed up, turned it off for about 20 mins, had the exact same thing happen, thankfully was close to home. Since then no problems from cold start or warm start, but same damn cold -30 weather. And yes i had CEL....still do, so hopefully codes will still be there in a week when i go to pull them

Could be a legitimate theory. However, in my case with codes P1122 and P1126........

Looking through the FSM and troubleshooting based on these two codes occurring in conjunction, FSM says to look at P1126 first. This code represents "ECM detects a voltage of power source for throttle control motor is excessively low." The troubleshooting procedure contains testing of the throttle control motor relay circuit for opens and shorts, and ultimately the "fix" is to replace the relay.

P1122 could be the throttle butterfly valve (troubleshooting step #13), but more likely I would think a stuck valve would trigger a P1121.

In other words, this is my long-winded way of saying I don't think your theory works for my case. Depending on the codes for rocket and fargo, it may apply to them.

EXACT same thing with me.....both instances occurred after letting the car sit for only a short period of time in very cold weather. The problem disappeared after letting the car sit for a couple of hours.

Time to change your TB (Throttle position sensor is attached to it), your throttle position sensor is malfunctioning. Get a refurbished one from Nissan for $90+Tax, $40 core charge - it is a 30 minute Job - good luck

Is that true, even for the eThrottle?
That's pretty much why I said you need to pull the codes in order to find out if the problem is at the pedal or at the TB.

Any codes to report Rocketsled and Fargo?

Sorry for the delay. I have a baby in the NICU so I'm up at the hospital all the time to be with him. I did get out to O'Reilies today and put their computer on it. The numbers I got were

P1122 and P1126

I haven't had a chance to see what this code is yet though.

EDIT: Looking back through the thread I see its the same codes you had. So can you tell me the fix? Looks like it might be a cold weather thing.

Thanks for reporting back. I have not definitively determined what the fix to the problem was. My issues have disappeared since the weather warmed up and have not returned. It looks like it is unquestionably cold weather related or triggered, but that does not specifically identify the actual cause of the problem.

Based on the diagnosis of the codes, I purchased a new throttle control motor relay and will keep it handy if it happens again. I am not, however, 100% convinced this is the problem.

If you happen to find the fix to this issue, please post back and I will make sure to do the same.

Sounds good. So do feel we are ok to drive our Maximas the way they are? Did you clear your check engine light or did it turn off yet? Since I tend to think it was a cold weather thing I'm debating if I need to do anything or if I should just reset the ecu. What did you do?

In my situation the car would not go beyond 1500RPM, I would unplug the TB connector, plug it back in and the car would be good for 3+ weeks. Then it could come back again.

However; if the car cuts out while you are on the road and does not let you go beyond 1500RPM it can be dangerous. I am not sure of the controller programming, but if it can go into limp mode *anytime*, I would fix it before taking the chance again....