ryant35

iTrader: (3)

When my engine is warm, my idle speed would dip really low for a while, then eventually it started to stall, just about at every stop light it makes rush hour traffic hell!

The starter even when out (still under warranty) because of a dozen restarts everyday.

I took it to a shop where they replaced the plugs (w/ NGK's), but it still stalls. They diagnosed it and replaced the Idle Air Control Valve. $200 & 2-3 hours labor. I don't even know how they could get to that part...

The car ran fine, but the idle still would dip, but did not stall. A couple of months after the repair, now it stalls as often as before.

I don't want to pay for a few more hours of diagnosis.

So here are my possible problems:

1.fuel delivery
a. fuel filter bad? not replaceable (well known) but the dealer
can't even locate a part # to order.
b. clogged fuel injectors? fuel injector cleaner from parts store or FI service?

2. Air delivery
a. My K&N is dirty, but it still stalls with no air filter in box.
b. Mass air flow needs cleaning?

I just need somewhere to start, as I may just do some of this work myself.
Thanks for reading all this.

steves01max

It could be your MAF sensor. How many miles do you have? Another place to look, unless there is no code, would be your ignition coils. Also, after they replaced the IACV, did they reset the throttle body to its normal position?

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

Sorry I forgot, 160k.

There are no codes. The car runs fine at street & freeway speeds. If fact there isn't even a loss in power.

I don't know if they reset the throttle body. Is that something I could do out in the parking lot now? Would that not only cause my problem but cause it to gradually get worse?

steves01max

It might help the situation. What do your RPM's idle at? If the car is cold/just started it should hover around 1300-1500RPM's. Any lower than that and it would not be getting enough air-flow. You can do it by adjusting the butterfly looking piece by the IACV. When you open the hood it should be a brass/goldish colored piece. When you lift it, it would rev the engine. Be careful though as there is also a piece for the cruise control. Correspond what you do to the throttle body to the RPM's if this is the route you go. Other than that if you say there's no loss in power, then it wouldnt be the MAF but as for the stalling check the alternator, make sure the battery is connected properly even make sure the key you have is programmed properly. It might have a failing connection and the car might be disbabling itself as a safety. I had that same problem when I first got my car with one of the keys.

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

I have suspected my alternator, it seems that it doesn't produce enough power at idle, but it's fine at speed.

I have also noticed my lights dimming when the idle drops. The idle speed is around 500-750 normally, but when the idle dips without stalling the needle drops all the way down.

steves01max

Check all connections first and make sure your battery doesnt have a build-up on it because that too can hinder power getting anywhere efficiently. If all is tight and clean then it might be the alternator.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

this is typical IACV badness....

I have the same issue (though it gets down to about 300rpm and then bumps back up, and doesn't stall)....but I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet.

Teddie18

iTrader: (3)

Try the idle relearn procedure below. This is for a 2000 Maxima.

1. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.
2. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PRE-CONDITIONING” (below)
are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.
7. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown),
then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
8. Wait 20 seconds.
9. Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the
result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the
problem by referring to the NOTE below.
10. Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle
speed and ignition timing are within specifications.

PRE-CONDITIONING

Before performing “Idle Air Volume Learning”, make sure that all of
the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be canceled if any of the following conditions are
missed for even a moment.

1. Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
2. Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 99°C (158 - 210°F)
3. PNP switch: ON
4. Electric load switch: OFF
   (Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
   On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, set lighting
   switch to the 1st position to light only small lamps.
5. Cooling fan motor: Not operating
6. Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
7. Vehicle speed: Stopped
8. Transmission: Warmed-up

For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive
vehicle for 10 minutes.

ITEM SPECIFICATION
Idle speed M/T: 625±50 rpm
A/T: 700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15°±5° BTDC
A/T: 15°±5° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

I had the same exact problem on a 2000 with 112k miles. It got to a point where it stalled EVERYTIME you slowed down or came to a stop. I swapped out the IACV valve but same thing returned in a few days. I had my ECU flashed and relearned and everything is running great now.

I had the same problem on a 2004 Alti, and after ECU relearned, fixed the problem.

gxe2se

iTrader: (33)

+1 on the MAF. I had the same thing happen a few months ago on my Dad's 00. Start up fine, but when warm it would die and stall. Esp at a stop light.
I swapped out the IACV.. still had same issue. Luckily, I was able to resell the part. A temporary fix was to manually adjust the idle with the screw on the TB but a few weeks later still the same issue.

FINALLY we checked the MAF...I changed the MAF and fixed it. Have your MAF checked.

I'll pretty sure thats it. How I got it tested.... we swapped out my Dad's broken MAF '00 with my working MAF '00 and fixed the issue. Ordered a new MAF to replace mine. and Everything is good to go.

Good luck.

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

I wonder in I should get some MAF cleaner, for just go buy a new MAF and try it.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Couldn't hurt, but my $$'s on the IACV.

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

My IACV is 2 months old.

oldngivout

iTrader: (8)

Upper intake manifold gasket.

AEMAXIMA01

iTrader: (3)

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I am having the same problem (except I haven't ever had any work done on my iacv). What is the best way to fix this? I have an appointment at my local nissan dealership for monday morning (earliest available) to have them look at it.

Is the relearn procedure listed above a possibility to fix my problem, and if so, will it also work for an 01? Is having to restart the car at almost every stoplight (due to stalling) hard on the starter?

Edit: I just found this http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=157925 Is there any chance that this could work with a 5th gen?

Pinklasol

I had a similiar problem in my 2000. It was the Idle speed motor.

cnhodge

iTrader: (1)

Mine won't idle at all. Crank it up and it dies immediately. It's been in the shop for 1.5 weeks now. Driving back from snowboarding in WV it started this crap. Car has been running strong up until now - 2000 SE with 180K miles. It also won't run over 65mph on a flat road. Getting it over that causes it to start cutting out and it starts slowing down. Strangest thing is that now when you shut it off and take the key out of the ignition the cooling fan run constantly and all dash lights are on. Only way to keep it from draining the battery is to disconnect it.

Any ideas on this one? It has relatively new coils and brand new MAF.

AEMAXIMA01

iTrader: (3)

Is this item user replaceable? Does anyone else have any other ideas on this issue? I would really rather not have to take it to the dealer if I don't have to.

AEMAXIMA01

iTrader: (3)

Any other ideas??

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

the info was given to you, now research on the IAVC replacement/cleaning

p2kmax

samethin happend to my 00 i replace tps amd the ivac just so happend it was a vacumm leak hidin on me :|

1MaXXfan

bump*

It seems like we're all still guessing at specific areas here: MAF, IACV, ECU for some.
The symptoms are all similiar and yet we've had different fixes around.
I did the MAF (note I have a diff thread on this topic open) and nada, so I'm thinking IACV. Most of us aren't here to pay the stealer to find and fix, not to mention they've had really spotty results form the threads I've scanned.
Anyone seen a TSB?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Exhaust all options, then

jer28

iTrader: (1)

In my case I was stalling out as soon as it started. I measured the 3 coils on the IACV and 2 of them were toast. They should all be at 22 ohms (roughly). I forget what pins to measure from, but if someones needs them I can post them up. The car will start and run now, but I have other issues since I am having a hard time getting the learning procedure to work properly.

Anyways, I have a thread opened on my other issues with the crazy high idle.

I just wanted to let some of the people in this thread know that I had some of their symptoms, and I did find a fix.

rmax68

i just went through this horrid ordeal with a used 01 i bought last week. i even had the buyer's inspection and passed the emissions test but was told that my battery was about to die. i replaced the battery and what do you know, it started stalling on me right away . the battery replacement must have been just a coincidence because i just couldn't believe that it would have f'd up something. i've changed batteries on my tahoe and honda accord and i know how to deal with these things.

i didn't get the rpm fluctuation above 1500, mine would just die right away- i mean it starts but it cuts out immediately unless i feather the gas pedal. i changed the MAF first since this was the cheapest part to replace and reading that a lot of folks have problems with these i figured that would be a good start.

i have an 01 SE, and the dealers here (seattle area) tried to sell me the $4-500 MAF and told them to screw themselves. i called "maxima god" daveB and he gave me $83 for the MAF and ordered the coils and other little parts as well. if you try to get it local, make sure you give them the part # 22680-2y001 because if you don't, prepare to get raped (well, the dealer will rape you either way- but not daveb for sure). one dealer was even telling me that the $400 MAF had a different part number but eventually was re-pointed back to the 2y001 part for my year and that the price was still the same- what a crime!

anyway, replacing the MAF didn't work out for me , so i had to go to the next part which was the IACV and hoped that my ECU wasn't fried. replaced that piece this morning and problem got fixed, what a relief. i went ahead and took it to the stealership anyway to have the ECU reflashed since the original owner never took it in to get the updates... and i thought with the new parts why not take a little insurance that they won't fail so quickly because of the old program codes. plus, they will confirm if my ECU is bad or not. turns out it is good and the car runs so strong once again... yay!

my advise, when your car starts acting up like, uh "STALLING", have it checked out right away because it could end up costing you more.

BlueMaxSE

ryant35, do you have a cai? i had the same problem with my 97. it stalls at idle but on the freeway and roads it's fine. come to find out one of the hoses that was connected to the cai was lose and not enough air getting in at idle.

dineth00i30

MAF is a big possiblity. My car used to stall whenever im on "N" or "P" when fully warmed.But, getting the MAF sensor fixed the stalling problam and the car runs strong now.I do however have one problam, if i let the car idle for a while and then drive, the car would idle at about 1000rpm on drive and if i put it into park it would be like 1500rpm and yesterday at the carwash it went upto 3000rpm! what could be the problam?

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

Ok I fixed the problem. $4 for MAF cleaner, and it idles smooth, and it has it's power back. I noticed right away when I revved the engine and my belt slipped, when it never did that before.

My transmission also shifted rough from 1st to 2nd, I added Lucas Oil transmission Fix and now it shifts smooth all the time.

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

And after my first tank of gas, my mileage went up by 5 mpg!

celestialking23

iTrader: (3)

Try cleaning your MAF and Throttle Body. If so you my need a new MAF.

Jimmy Beyer

I just went through several months of the same hell! Mine got so bad that I was trying to keep it running by using two feet, but that resulted in the computer making the transmission shift itself into neutral, like it had failed. Prior to that I did notice some power loss, especially when I tried to pass someone on the freeway. There was a noticable lack of power, and an extremely hard upshift once I got to speed. I could tell it was starving for air.

I finally broke down and took it to a dealer, and it turned out to be the Mass Air Flow Sensor. It wasn't cheap, but it cured the problem.

I was cautioned by the dealer to use a factory air filter, as they are treated with a light oil to catch more dust particles. Apparently using an inadequate after-market filter led to my MAF sensor failure.

GOOD LUCK! Hope this helps.

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

I did clean my MAF and now it runs great. Thanks.

jdm01se

Bad gas.

ryant35

iTrader: (3)

Bad gas for the last 5 months? I buy gas at a few different stations, different brands, and I fill up 2-3 times a week. And I fixed the problem, it was a dirty MAF.

BobOlson

When cleaning it no longer helps, replace w an OEM MASF, not an aftermarket!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Well all typically get our MAF's from DAVEB.