Ok, so I tried the soldering trick, but it did not make a difference, so I just elliminated the little harness and board altogether, and yes, the sub came back to life...(yes, there is the thump when starting up)...but at least its on...one thing though, I now get the dreaded alternator whine out of the sub....so obviously the bypass and little circuit board has some grounding impacts in it....its not terrible, as you only really hear it in the back seat, and it is not noticeable when music is on, just on pause or between songs...anyone else who bypassed this harness get the same problem?

 

ok, so i've directly connected them, nothing happens. i tried to resolder the joints, didn't work. so now i'm sure i need a new piece, it came in and out, and sounded great when it worked, so assuming a short. problem is i can't find one, can anyone tell me where i would get a replacement for this circuit board?

 

This solution worked well for me. I went ahead and resoldered the three input and output wires as well. No idea which of the joints needed it, but it's working now.

The only hard part was trying to get the two plugs unplugged, especially given the location in the trunk. (Hint...press the tan tab to unlock and slide off...use some pliers to get a better grip if needed.) Other than that, a piece of cake, using my 20+ year old soldering pencil.

 

Mine blew out dead weight took it out and added weight 12'' P3 Rockford Fosgate killer but need Dynamat to stop the rattling when put it up way high in the bass!!

 

Is there any advice to the couple of us that connected the sub directly and bypassed the board and still don't get anything?

 

I also connected mine directly and like you, I am not sure what to do now. I did see a repair option at carsterohelp.com. Has anyone used this site? Or have an idea where I need to troubleshoot the subwoofer? Is there a fuse that I need to checK?

 

Nice mine blew so took it out and got a amp with a Rockford Fosgate P3 woofer better!!

 

I've been going insane with my subwoofer, trying to get it fixed! I had the cutoff issue until I caused a short which resulted in my sub not working, period! First place I looked, naturally, is the fuse box on the driver side. Nothing. Went crazy for 5 days trying to find the short. Anyway, long story 'short'. The fusebox for the subwoofer (and only for the subwoofer) turns out to be under the hood. For those of you who have a sub that doesn't work at all (NOT THE CUTOFF ISSUE, RATHER DONT WORK AT ALL ISSUE) check the blue 15 amp fuse under the hood. Inside of the cover will have a fuse labeled 'speaker' hope this helps someone

 

If you still interested in getting that fixed, here is the link to the pdf file with a step by step directions. http://www.shiftice.com/Maxima_02-03...dio_repair.pdf
If you are not sure you can diy, you can also check out shift_ice @ http://www.shiftice.com/bose_cutout_fix.html This guy charges 179 to do the job for you. I did it myself, twice. First time for me and another for friend. It took about 3 hours the first time, and an hour and a half the second. Its just lots of small screws.

 

If you still interested in getting that fixed, here is the link to the pdf file with a step by step directions. http://www.shiftice.com/Maxima_02-03...dio_repair.pdf
If you are not sure you can diy, you can also check out shift_ice @ http://www.shiftice.com/bose_cutout_fix.html This guy charges 179 to do the job for you. I did it myself, twice. First time for me and another for friend. It took about 3 hours the first time, and an hour and a half the second. Its just lots of small screws.

 

I would quite honestly consider letting you have sex with my wife right now. This was the problem for 3 years now? A FUSE? So glad you pointed out the obvious! Now to find that soldering iron to fix the board.

 

So after replacing the fuse and sodering the board that the OP suggested, I am back in business. Thanks to zhuleek and the OP so so so much! I am glad that I didn't send it off to get fixed. Every $ saved helps in these times.

 

it is most likely a bad solder like the original guy said, mine only cuts out when i really crank on it, suggesting that the excessive current is causing a heat overload which would definitely make it disrupt the signal, oh it turns back on after i turn it down for a minute or 2 as well.....

 

Just did this resolder and it brought my sub back to life!
Was totally not working before this

thanks!

 

Is your wife O.K with this?

 

Just performed the fix and now my new Maxima rattles like I have a bag of tin cans in the back! Great write-up! So glad to have you guys out here as a resource!

 

i have a 02 max and the sub cuts off any way to fix this i hit the bottom of the sub and it works then cuts off i need helpp pleaseee

 

I bypassed the circuit board a couple of months ago and the sub has worked every time sense. It does produce the "thump" when I turn they ignition on, but I'll get around to soldering the circuit board and hooking it back up in the near future. Thanks for the post!

 

anyone know what the symptoms are?

 

Symptoms for what?

 

the amp being dead?

no sound?

sound is low?

no bass?

sound is crackling?

sound cuts out?

just so i can keep an ear out and listen for anything unusual ,it will help in my diagnosis

 

If your problem is the Relay, I have 6 left... Replace it and done... Here is a link with the specs of the Relay

http://datasheets.ru/datasheets/4680...a-CQ1-12V.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1182

First come, first served send me a private message if you don't wanna wait on ebay. Good luck.

 

couldn't have explained the art of soldering any better practice with some spare wires and an old circuit board from a broken remote control or something similar. Get comfortable with it, that will help alot! I bypassed my circuit board. One of these days I'll get around to soldering back up the connections... eventually

 

These wont work on 2000 models. I tried
There is no relay at that location on pre 2001 models.

I did the mod from the first post and i'm back in business after being bass-less for 3 years.

 

I second this... My 2000 has worked great since re-soldering the board several years ago. Has never cut out since

 

I may have a different issue with my sub cut-out. If I push upward on the wiring connector (located a few inches away from the sub) It will come back on for a while. I plan on removing the protective foam covering to see what's going on with the connector.

 

Remove the foam and you will likely find the same thing as in the first post... Bad solder on the back of the board. Same thing I had. The board w/bad solder is covered by the foam

 

Did the solder repair today... worked like a champ. Thanks to all that took the time help!

 

I can vouch for the fact that the problem lies in that filter thing. I started having the same issues with the Bose subwoofer a couple of months ago and came across this thread after looking to see if anyone else had this problem. Apparently it is quite common!

I simply unplugged the filter and plugged the sub directly into the connector from the car. The bass sounds exactly the same from what I can tell, the only difference is that the subwoofer makes a noticeable pop when you turn on the radio. It's really not that bad, and I can live with it.

When I have some more time, I may take a look at that circuit board and see what those solder joints look like. Thanks for the help everyone, I just solved a very annoying problem!

 

What would be a good replacement aftermarket sub for my 01' Max?... Nothing special, just something that would sound like the factory sub.

 

You guys are so awesome! I did the PCB resolder fix and the sub worked for a week, then it cut out again *FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU* I gave up for a while then I just saw this suggestion and voilà, I be bumpin again

 

I have a 03. My woofer has stopped playing, but if I tap the speaker bracket near the connector it comes on, but will again go off. This to me is where the problem is. I'm going to pull the connector and use sme TV tuner cleaner. Maybe this will save a lot of un-necessary extra work. Perhaps there is a little corrosion there. I've seen this before in other electronic equipment.

Nope, must be the relay like everyone is talking about.

 

I'll have to try it out.

 

If resoldering or cleaning doesn't work it's probably the cheap relay Nissan used on the amp. I bought a new, stronger relay from Biren for $17 and has not cut out one time in more than a month. Soldering is not complex but I would suggest also getting a desolder tool. A sub that always works sound better than one constantly in fear of cutting out.

 

Ditto. What I did is buy one from a guy on the org that purchased 10, and then paid someone on craigslist $20 to solder it in (he was a pro TV fixer guy). Works perfect now and hasn't cut out since.

 

Check the history here. Replace the relay and be done with it. I got one from Biren like a year ago. No problem since. Put this thread to bed.

 

There is a side latch tab you have to push in. I used a small scew driver. Push in and pull back on the connector at the same time. I have an 03.

 

Are you talking about the brown latch on the side of the connector? Or the black latches at the end of the connector? I was looking forward to trying this fix for my sub but I couldn't remove the connectors. I was jamming in the brown latch with a screwdriver but I couldn't get the connectors to unplug. Tried squeezing the black latches too but that didn't seem to do anything.

If it is the brown latch, should I just be pushing it straight in? To the left or right? I spent more time than I'd like to admit trying to unplug the connectors and all I got out of it was sore fingers. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

I know it's kind of hard to pull that thing off. It took me awhile too because I was afraid to break it. But without crawling into that trunk again to ck colors, I just took a driver and pushed in and pulled at the same time. I don't remember a color for the latch. It's on the side ( push a small screw driver straight in on that latch), just dont pull on the wires but only the plastic connector. It will come. This is on my 03.

 

Great, thanks man. I'll have to give it another go... Maybe have someone else pulling the connector while I'm jamming down on the latch.

This subwoofer problem is definitely annoying. Really hoping that soldering the broken joints will fix it! It's strange though, my subwoofer seems to react to heat. It works far more reliably on days that it is really hot, but I barely ever hear it in the winter. I know summer is coming up, but I wanted to get this fixed once and for all. Will report back if I'm able to get the connectors off and solder the joints.