I am having intermittant brake booster failures, they are becoming more frequent daily. Some times the brakes work, other times they are rock hard. When they are hard, there is a woosh sound when applying the brakes.

In all the cars I have ever owned, some pretty old, I have never had a problem with the brake booster.

So, is there a problem with these 2000 I30/Maxima brake boosters? Anyone else have this problem?

I checked the vacuum line, it is in good condition with no leaks. That's about all I have done so far.

 

Don't mess with your brakes. If you have problems fix it or take it to your mechanic.

Try chaning out the brake booster and see if it improves.

 

Wow, usually when I post a problem on this forum, people have seen it before and tell me exactly what to do. This must be an isolated problem. I guess I will just start replacing parts. I will start with the booster.

 

Well yall, thanks for nothing. LOL. Just kidding around. I found this information below on Google. Let is be said, let it be written, let it be documented in case some other fool has this problem....

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If the booster is working correctly, it should have no noticable effect on the engine, but if it is leaking, it will cause big problems. Use the following procedure to check yours.

Things you need:

Vacuum guage
Cap for vacuum port on the intake manifold
Friend to work brake pedal
Pencil and paper
Procedure:

Hook up the vac guage. Start the engine. Note the reading. This is your "base" reading.

Stop the engine, disconnect the booster vacuum line and cap the port on the manifold. Start the engine, look at the guage. If this reading is substantally higher than the base, you have a leak in the system, probably in the lines leading to the booster.

Stop the engine, remove and test the one-way valve (should be able to blow into it one way but not the other). Air should only pass in the direction indicated by the arrow printed on the top of the valve (make sure to reinstall it in the correct direction).

Reconnect the one way valve and vacuum line to the manifold and start the engine. Watch the vac guage as a friend depresses the brake pedal. It should dip as the pedal is depressed and return to the base reading. If it drops slowly, but returns, you have a blockage/collapse in the vac line. If it falls and does not return, you have a torn diaphram in the booster. Especially indicative of a torn diaphram is a hissing when the pedal is depressed.


Sounds like I have a torn diaphram.

 

pump yoour brakes and pedal should reach top and be rock hard. That means it is building pressure. Hold your pedal and start your engine. Pedal should drop half way. That means booster is building pressure.
Also another check from manual

Start engine, and stop it after one or two minutes. Depress
brake pedal several times slowly. The pedal should go further
down the first time, and then it should gradually rise thereafter.
2. Depress brake pedal while engine is running, and stop engine
with pedal depressed. The pedal stroke should not change
after holding pedal down for 30 seconds

 

Most likely a bad diaphragm in the booster. I had one do and act exactly the same way on a Porsche I used to own. Replaced booster=problem solved.

 

It was a bad booster. Replaced booster = problem solved.

Let me tell you though...When they make a 2000 I30, the first part they start with is the brake booster. They put it on the floor, in the middle of a room, and start building the rest of the car around it. What a pain to change. Trade you car in if this happens to you.